Denis Urubko Summits His 14th 8,000 Meter Peak

Denis Urubko has succesfully completed his quest to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000 meter peaks.  His latest accomplishment, and the icing on the cake, was the SE Face of Cho Oyu, which Urubko done in alpine style.  RussianClimb.com has the report, but few details.  It is noted that Urubko is back in Cho Oyu Basecamp–and more details will follow.

Denis Urubko now joins a very select list of climbers to ever top out on all 14 8,000 meter peaks.  Reinhold Messner became the first back in 1986, and since that time, less than 20 others have ever made this distinct accomplishment.  EverestNews has a list of some of the individuals who have accomplished this, but their last update in 2005, has left a couple of others off the list.  The list is quite intersting and includes: Reinhold Messner, Park Young Seok, Ed Viesturs, and Alan Hinkes.  Ed Viesturs is the only American,  and also done so using no O2.

Denis Urubko’s Cho Oyu climb has been well-documented in an article published today on ExplorersWeb.  A BIG congratulations goes out to Denis.  Now we can’t wait to see what he comes up with next!

Murder On Everest? Tainted Alcohol Blamed For Sherpa Poisonings And Death

There is some very disturbing news coming off of Mt. Everest today.  A recent Sherpa death has been attributed to what the Sherpa thought was a bottle of alcohol-which in reality was methanol.  It was packaged, bottled, and labeled as Nepali Royal Stag Deluxe Whiskey.  At least one other Sherpa is currently in dire condition after drinking from the same bottle.

Gavin Bates reports that the recent death of Kaji Sherpa is attributed to this bad batch of brew and that Gavin’s own expedition cook is also suffering some very serious health problems-being near death at one point.

I don’t do this very often, but the seriousness of this situation and the readership that this site has, I feel that it is only right to reprint Gavin’s full report to get the word out about what is/has taken place.

I would seriously recommend ANY expedition leaders to please, Please, PLEASE go through the alcohol in your camp and make sure that Nepali Royal Stag Deluxe Whiskey is NOT in your stash of supplies and get the word out on this disheartening and truly awful situation before more deaths occur senselessly.

Gavin Bates has done an amazing job of giving us plenty of information, clear down to who is possibly passing the bad alcohol off on unsuspecting individuals.  Here is his full report:

Ngima Sherpa is my cook here, and a ridiculously happy chap he is too,” Gavin Bate reported earlier today. “He also enjoys the odd drink, like most of the staff here, and the other night he went next door to the Mountain Top group and polished off a bottle of Nepali Royal Stag deluxe whiskey with his mate Kaji Sherpa, the camp 2 cook from this group. They come from the same village called Thaksindu, three days below Lukla.”

“Unfortunately this wasn’t whiskey at all, it was methanol, part a stock of illegal brew made in Kathmandu and delivered throughout the Khumbu in the last few months. The dealer in Lukla is a Gurung called Lama and so far four other people have died in the region because of this poisoning. At this moment, as I type, I am surrounded by liaison officers and we are calling the police inspector in Namche Bazaar to push for a formal investigation into murder or manslaughter.”

”A few hours after enjoying their late night , Kaji was lying dead on the ice outside and Ngima was fighting for his life. Methanol poisoning is quick and deadly. Within a short time the Indian Army team doctor found Ngima and attempted to help him (he was conscious enough to drink some coffee) but very quickly he was going into renal failure. My staff carried him to the HRA medical emergency tent, and then began the first desperate 24 hours of trying to keep him alive.

Ngima was lucky, he was attended to by some of the finest medical minds in wilderness medicine. Eric and Torrey, who run the HRA here, were immediately forced to think outside the box. This was almost a lost cause from the start, but they persevered with dogged tenacity. Other doctors started to attend the scene - Jeff from Adventure Consultants, Lana from the Croatian team, Melissa from RMI, Donald from Summit Climb and also Felix from the German team.”

”My team here attended round the clock, but we were supported mostly by both Willie and Damien Benegas, who carried out procedures and assisted from beginning to end, eschewing sleep and even their own climbing teams to keep Ngima alive, right up until the moment that we finally loaded him aboard the helicopter this morning. Also worth mentioning is Adele from Jagged Globe who kept on turning up to help at the just the right moment.”

This is a sad and very SERIOUS situation.  Investigations are currently taking place into this matter.  I will share more info when I get it…

Let’s keep the affected Sherpas in our thoughts and prayers and hope that investigators can get to the bottom of this tragic situation.  Unbelievable!

Achille Compagnoni, 1954 K2 First Ascent Team Member, Dies At 94

K2climb.net is reporting that famed K2 first ascenter Achille Compagnoni has died at a hospital in northern Italy at the age of 94.  Compagnoni was one of two Italians that were finally able to conquer what many consider the ‘world’s toughest peak’ to climb.  The big ascent finally came in 1954 after a series of failed attempts on the second highest peak in the world.  Achille Compagnoni achieved the summit with fellow Italian teammate Lino Lacedelli.

There was controversy about this first ascent.  Years later news would break that another member of the Italian team may have gotten the jump on Compagnoni and Lacedelli and raced to the summit ahead of the famous duo.

You can read the full account of the famed 1954 K2 first ascent by going to k2climb.net.  It is definitely an intriguing story and one that is still in question today.

First Ascent Team Everest Dispatch 35

The First Ascent Team, one of the highest profiled teams on Everest this season, has posted a few new dispatches this week.  Dave Hahn reports that the team has made it to Camp 2 without any difficulties thus far.  Back at Base Camp, the videographers have been exploring the area and introducing some of the other expeditions and members that are along for this season’s climb.  There was a nice overview of the Eco-Everest expedition a few days back–the team trying to clean up Mt. Everest by paying Sherpas to bring down garbage.

It looks like everything is running smoothly, but I am sure that many of us thought it would.  With the likes of Dave Hahn and Ed Viesturs, and the whole experience of the team–as well as the incredible video updates, the First Ascent Team knows how to work the publicity wheel.  I look forward to following along with this expedition, and you can to by visiting their blog–Born Out There.

Jon Bowermaster Reports In From Ibo Island

World explorer and National Geographic journeyman Jon Bowermaster has been updating his ‘Notes From Sea Level” blog quite regularly.  Jon is currently reporting in from Ibo Island–a single island from a string of 32 found off the coast of Mozambique.  Jon really gives us an inside look of this little known island and makes us feel like we are right there with him.  In his first Ibo Island post, Jon gives a nice overview of the island, where it lies, and some of the history.  Oddly enough, Ibo Island’s main business came about in the 1800’s with the trading of ivory and slaves-two things that thankfully are no longer exported.

Ibo Island may also be the only African nation that has an abundance of fresh water.

In Jon’s second post from Ibo Island, Jon takes a look at some of the music and culture associated with this island.  He puts up a couple of nice videos documenting the musical heritage that has been passed down for generations.  It is a neat post and makes us realize why Jon is considered one of the hardest working explorers in the world.  Thanks for the reports, Jon.

All Climbing Launches Climbing Video Network

All Climbing, the blog for climbing, bouldering, mountaineering, and training, has launched a new climbing video network.  All Climbing has partnered with Force5 to bring some of the best climbing videos to the All Climbing blog.  The list of videos currently available on the All Climbing blog is quite impressive and deserves a look.  There are over 10 pages of climbing videos to choose from, with many of them able to be purchased directly from the site.  You can spend hours browsing some of the best climbing videos available anywhere online.  This is a great addition to the All Climbing blog, and one that will be used time and time again.

There are videos of bouldering and climbing competitions, climbing how-to’s, and even some videos on proper gear and survival techniques.  This video reminds us all of the dangers of mountain climbing and some of the precautions that you should be aware of.

Expeditions Reach The North Pole

ExplorersWeb is reporting that a few expeditions have reached their target destination of The North Pole today.  The expeditions were pushed to their human limts over the past three days, with many of the guys saying that they had very litle sleep over the 72 hour final push.

John Huston and Tyler Fish (USA) reached the North Pole unaided and unassisted on the 55th day of their expedition.  They reported having to cross some open water enroute to the Pole, but that it wasn’t unexpected.  Tyler and John have become the first Americans to ski unassisted to the North Pole. John Huston has previously reached The South Pole in Jan. 2008.  Congrats guys!

Lonnie Dupre (USA), Max Chaya (Lebanon), and Stuart Smith (USA) reached the Pole on April 25th at 9:22 AM central time.  Chaya and Stuart Smith have now each reached all three Poles:  North, South, and the highest, Mt. Everest.   Max Chaya also became the first Lebanese to ski to the North Pole.

Congrats goes out to everyone for reaching their destination all in one piece.  There are still a few people out there striving for the North Pole in the coming days.  I will bring you that news when I get it.

America’s Most Wanted Environmental Criminals

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has recently published a list of the most wanted suspects related to environmental crimes.  The EPA Fugitives list looks very similar to lists set up by law enforcement agencies to capture the most wanted criminals in the land.  The list includes photos, crime information, where the crime occured, and where the suspects were last seen.  The EPA is hoping that by taking a page from America’s Most Wanted, that they may be able to apprehend and capture some of the individuals that have been wrecking havok to our nation’s environment.

Some of the crimes listed include smuggling hazardous chemicals across our nation’s borders, disposing of hazardous waste unproperly, illegally importing automobiles that did not meet EPA standards, as well as a whole list of other crimes.  Each criminal is accompanied by a nice “Wanted Poster” that can be printed off on your local computer.  Each individual has accompanying instructions on what to do if you see them or know of their location.   We are reminded to not apprehend any of the suspects, but to report them to the proper authorities.  Some of these individuals can be dangerous .  Read the Full List.

Let’s hope that some of these people can be brought to justice before they damage even more of our land and waterways!

Tip from The Green Scene blog.

Everest 2009: Johnny Strange Vying For Youngest Westerner Summit

The Los Angeles Times recently profiled Johnny Strange, a 17-year-old kid who is determined to become the youngest person to conquer the 7 Summits.  The next tick on his list happens to be Mt. Everest where he is currently at Everest Basecamp preparing to start his acclimatization.

Johnny Strange will be joined on the expedition by his father, Brian, as well as their guide, Scott Woolums.  Scott has led Johnny and his father on climbs to Vinson Massif, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Denali, and Mt. Elbrus, 5 of the 7 Summits.

The Los Angeles Times article is a nice perspective on what will be one of the more exciting Everest expeditions of 2009.  Not only could Johnny Strange become the youngest person to summit the 7 Summits, but he could also become the youngest western climber to scale Mt. Everest.

K2 Gets Commercialized: The First Guided Expedition To K2

Rock and Ice Magazine is reporting that Fabrizio Zangrilli will be leading the first-ever commercial expedition to K2 in 2009.  An Australian/U.S. expedition company, Field Touring Alpine, has put this expedition together.

From Rock and Ice:

The K2 expedition which will depart this June for Pakistan ushers in a new era of Himalayan mountain-guiding or “Super Guiding” and is unparalleled in scope: seven seasoned high-altitude climbers will employ a commercial guide service and the leadership skills of Zangrilli — one of the strongest alpinists in the world and a recent addition to Marmot’s global athlete team – to attempt one of the most difficult mountains ever.

Eleven climbers lost their lives in a tragic accident on K2 in 2008.  This accident garnered world-wide attention and sparked a discussion here that K2 may be the next big peak to be commercialized.  In theory, this discussion was started after it was revealed that a couple of the K2 climbers had payed for Sherpa assistance-a first of it’s kind on K2.  One year later, it has become official.

Is commercializing K2 a good idea?

Looking at what has become of Mt. Everest over the last 20 years, with hundreds and hundreds of people vying for that ultimate summit each Spring, K2 would present a much bigger challenge.  The death rate on Everest has dwindled down to less than 1 in 20 in recent years, while K2’s 1 in 4 presents a much greater danger.  I am not sure that I would like to see K2 go the way of Everest.  It is fun to read and watch, but it takes something away from the challenge when teams begin to find the fastest/easiest route up to make a few dollars.  What are your thoughts?  Comment below.

Next Page »