Basecamp Clinic Already seeing signs of HACE
HACE or High Altitude sickness is already starting to take a toll on Everest climbers this year. BasecampMD is reporting that two low land Nepali were taken in to the clinic yesterday with signs of severe HACE…they were given steroids and Oxygen and were able to get stabilized enough to be able to take to the trek to a lower altitude.
HACE has always been a problem on Everest with some people not taking the extra time to get acclimatized and some, even when they do–still catch HACE. HACE in and of itself is not deadly if you have a means to get to lower ground fast. But on Everest…That lower ground could be hours away all the while you are by yourself. It has claimed quite a few climbers and Sherpa lives over the years and has sparked a lot of interest from the medical fields.
This season there is going to be a huge scientific study based on this such issue to try to find out how people’s bodies actually handle higher elevations, and what steps could be taken to help save more lives.
THE WARNINGS OUT: North Side of Everest is OVERCROWDED!
Last year, after 11 deaths occured on Everest, it gave way to the grand ‘ol debate once again of how crowded Everest is getting…
Well this year, after the death of David Sharp and the resulting turmoil and frustration shown wordwide about climber etiquette and the crowd problems, the warning has already sounded–North Side of Everest is CROWDED.
Teams have been sending their Sherpas up, in some cases, weeks ahead of time to try to beat out the crowds and try to secure a good spot.
The Tibetan Mountaineering Association has put out a warning due to the overcrowded conditions that will be present this year.
They have placed part of the blame on Tibetan climbers planning to do a trial run of the Chinese Olympic Torch Ceremony..to the Top of Everest.
Now I don’t want people jumping to conclusions. After what happened with David Sharp and the ensuing controversy and bad publicity surrounding last season, I think a lot of teams will be doing things a little bit different this year–in order to not become the one down in the crowd so to speak.
I do know that HIMEX is currently working on the plans that the teams will be taking as they vie for their chance at the Summit and the order that they will all be ascending..
I just hope that this season takes a much safer turn for the better after a heartwrenching and disasterous year last season.
The Adventure Blog Suspends Operations…..
My good friend Kraig over at The Adventure Blog has just informed all of his readers (including myself) that his blog has gone on hiatus, just as he made his 1000th post!
Now the 1000th blog post should be something celebrated. It takes an awful lot of time and dedication to get to that point–So why the “break” Kraig?
Well it seems he has booked himself on an African adventure of a lifetime. His goal? Mt. Kilimajaro. This will be Kraig’s first attempt at a big peak and he is promising a big adventure update on his site in two weeks.
The Adventurist would like to wish him luck and safe travel both to and from Africa and Mt. Kilimanjaro!
While I am on the subject of my blogging friends, I would like to mention Alan Arnette’s site today as well. He has a great article on Miss Elizabeth Hawley…
If you have climbed an 8,000er in the Himalayas then you will know the name, and if not…well you weren’t alone.
It seems Miss Hawley is THE Himalayan journalist living in Nepal. She has covered Mt. Everest and the surrounding areas for magazines such as TIME and the American Alpine Journal for well over 40 years (47 to be exact).
I suggest all of you head on over to Alan’s and read this great article…Miss Hawley can make or break a climbers career..and she has never climbed a mountain in her life….
AMAZING! Boy Finds Amundsen Watch Buried at North Pole
An 11 year old Norwegian Boy spotted a black box on the beach near his home in Denmark–this in itself is not remarkable, but what was inside could only be called amazing.
Three years ago Joergen Amundsen buried a watch at the North Pole in Commemoration of his late ancestor Roald Amundsen, Discoverer of the North Pole.
Since that time, the watch had been trapped beneath the pole in ice..but as the arctic goes, it is always breaking apart, drifting, and reforming itself. Through all of the arctic cycles, somehow this watch showed up in Norway.
Along with the watch was a letter left by Joergen stating that it was buried at the North Pole and the date. And the most amazing part–The watch was still working….
The Mt. Hood Disaster and The Mountain Locator Bill
In a 33-22 vote, Oregon could very well become the first US state to require Mountain climbers to carry personal locating devices such as a GPS, a mountain locator unit, or a personal distress beacon in case of an emergency.
This has all come about through two recent accidents on Mt. Hood. The first one, occuring in December of ‘06 left three climbers dead and two bodies still missing….the second, just weeks ago, seen three climbers rescued after they had used their GPS units to tell rescuers where they were.
The Oregon politicians have said that this bill is very similar to what is required of boaters or bicyclists across the country with laws passed to protect those involved.
Climbers on the other hand are skeptical and claim that this infringes on there general freedom and the whole purpose they climb…it takes some of the chance away from the climb.
It will be very interesting to see how this plays out once it reaches the Oregon Senate then the Governor.
In the past 25 years, 35 people have died trying to ascend Mt. Hood.
Mayor and Former Deputy Minister to each try Everest in 2007
It seems like EVERYONE is wanting there shot at Everest this season. I mentioned Orlando Bloom yesterday, and today news reports are circulating that the Mayor of Prague is leaving in two weeks for his attempt at the world’s highest mountain.
The Mayor of Prague, Pavel Bem, has been given an unpaid leave of absence from his city duties to take part in this season on Everest.
His absence from Prague is disapproved by some in his country as wel as by the King himself, but this is not going to stop Pavel Bem from trying one of his life long dreams.
Also, Former Deputy Minister of Malaysia, Datuk Khalid Yunus, has arrived in Kathmandu for his attempt on Everest as well. It seems like the politicians are trying to draw attention to their respected countries by doing something that few people ever have the chance to do–Climb Everest.
Datuk Khalid Yunus said that he is climbing Everest to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Independence of Malaysia.
Both of these stories are coming from the ABC of Mountaineering website.
How many Expeditions to Everest in 2007?
A visitor stopped by and posed this question: “How many people will be climbing this year?”
As most of you will probably know there has been a great debate raging over whether or not there is getting to be to many people trying to scale Everest. Well, here are a few numbers for you:
As I have it right now, there are going to be 32 teams trying to ascend this year..as far as a team is concerned, it can consist of 0ne person or well over twenty or more.
David Tait is going by himself, as is Gavin Bates…but then you have HIMEX or the 7 Summits team that are well equipped with over 20..so at this point it would really be hard to put up an exact number.
Take in to account all of the Sherpa people that are involved with each climb and team, plus that some people going will presumably have to turn back due to sickness at basecamp or above, and you can see where I am coming from…
Last year there were 410 summitters, and 11 deaths. The ratio of summits per deaths has risen substantially over the last few years..it use to be one in four would die trying…now it is more like 1 in 10 as an average.
The reason why there seems to be a lot of deaths as of late could very well correspond with the number of climbers attempting to summit, all within about a two week period.
The race will be on once again this year with HIMEX leading the way and laying the ropes, as they usually do, and setting the climbing schedule for most of the teams.
The camps are being set and stocked as we speak, teams are arriving in Kathmandu and the surrounding areas by the day–and before long there will be a full blitz to basecamp.
Hopefully this year will be a safe climbing season–but going on statistics alone–it might be interesting to see how this season compares to last year and whether or not any slight changes will be made if a climber does go down on the mountain.
Women Lead Everest Expedition From Philipines
The Women of the Philipines have become inspired by last years mens team making the Mt. Everest summit, and now are planning an expedition of their own.
Janet Belarmino, 28, Noelle Wenceslao, 27, and Carina Dayondon, 28 – members of the Philippine Coast Guard and the Philippine Airlines (PAL ) Mountaineering Club – are expected to start their climb in May to follow the path cut last year by Leo Oracion, perhaps the first Filipino to reach the top of Mt. Everest.
The three said they are leaving behind loved ones, whom they hope to come home to with pride and with the joy of having made history.
It will be interesting to see how an all women’s expedition comes together, and what differences their are between an all man or all woman team.
Orlando Bloom to Scale Everest?
Hollywood heart throb and A list actor Orlando Bloom has recently been tossing around the idea of attempting an Everest Expedition.
Orlando Bloom is famous for appearing in “The Lord of the Rings” Trilogy as well as “The Pirates of the Carribean”.
So why Orlando want to do this expedition? To him, it has been a lifelong dream to climb the world’s tallest mountain. Plus, he says, it would get get him away from “acting” and give him a much needed break.
Orlando Bloom is wanting to do this sooner rather than later–with a possible time being this summer. This will be an interesting story to watch that is bound to garner a lot of attention as it developes.
Everest 2007 Update 3-28-07 Gavin Bates
Gavin Bates’ team has successfully arrived in Kathmandu.
Gavin Bates will be trying to tackle two 8,000ers on this expedition–Cho Oyu and Everest. This will make Gavin’s fourth expedition to Everest, but this year he will be trying to tackle the summit from the North Side, then descend down the South.
For Gavin’s Cho Oyu climb, he will be sharing the experience with 5 team members from Adventure Alternative–He will be joined by co-guide Steve Pinfield and Sherpa Pesang Tendi.
From Gavin’s April ascent of Cho Oyu, he will then walk to Everest and ascend by the North Face and the Northwest Ridge, and planning to do so with no camp stops and carrying a small tent for self-support.
Gavin will then atempt to come down the Southeast Ridge and the South Col, ending in Nepal. He is estimating his total time on Everest to be 55-60 hours, with a possiblesummit attempt taking place May 16-28.
Gavin has previously (2005) climbed Everest without supplemental oxygen in one push from Camp 2, and he is banking on this previous experience to help him out here as well.
He says his biggest problem may become the weather, as both sides of Everest are rarely clear at the same momment.
Accompanying Gavin on his Everest push will be one lone sherpa, Pesang Tendi. Pesang Tendi will only be there if Gavin collapses or needs outside help getting down from Everest.
This is a solo mission for Gavin and once again he will be climbing without supplemental oxygen.
Here is his first update from Kathmandu:
24th March
Hi everyone! The team for Cho Oyu all arrived safe and well in Kathmandu and have had a busy few days finalising kit, equipment and supplies before the journey to their base camp. They are now in China at Zhangmu. Yesterday Gavin and Elli met the highest Guru in Kathmandu for a traditional blessing. They then had a wonderful evening with all Gavin’s Sherpa friends before starting their journey. They will be the second team into Base Camp on Cho Oyu. All updates will be posted here as the climb of Cho Oyu and Everest advance. The team sends a big HI, to all their friends, family and supporters at home.





