EVEREST 2008: ENTER KATHMANDU–Climbers begin arriving..and STING, too

I am beginning to receive the first dispatches in regards to this season’s Mt. Everest climb. Climbers are beginning to trickle in to Kathmandu, where they are meeting up with teammates and guides–still trying to figure out just what kind of rules and stipulations will be enforced from May 1st-10th. Most are enjoying the sights and sounds of a new country. Little is being said about the recent ‘unrest’ in both Nepal and Tibet, and actually, at this moment most are surprised by how calm things are in the area.

From Alan Arnette:

“Most of my team have arrived and Thamel is bustling with fit looking climbers and trekkers on every corner. The shop owners are especially pleased to see their future customers and send a friendly shout out to each passerby. The pizza is still good at Fire & Ice. The one legged, nub armed man still begs outside. The dogs sleep soundly in the streets. And the motorcycles take the sidewalk when the roads get too congested. The editorial in the Kathmandu Post tells of the upcoming elections, a time for change and violence.

Alan goes on to talk a bit about some of the rumors concerning this season’s climb on Mt. Everest:

“There is a relaxed feeling in the air in spite of the tension this
year. Long time expedition leaders, local tour company owners and
people in the know such as Ms. Hawley are all nonchalant about the
rumors. It is what it is. Luckily here, the rumor mill is thwarted by
lack of blackberries and ubiquitous Internet connections. Mostly it is
word of mouth. Maybe better or worse but by the time you hear something
it feels more solid.

Perhaps this feeling Alan is talking about will help to settle some of the climbers’ minds–especially the ones making this journey for the first time. Alan has been there before. This is actually his third attempt on Mt. Everest, so it helps to bring a bit if insight into his reports. We will be keeping close tabs on Alanas his trip progresses.

By the way, Alan has added a special video of his journey to Kathmandu, showing everyone some of the sights and sounds he encountered along the way. If you would like to learn more about Alan Arnette, checkout the special interview I conducted with him a week ago..and if that isn’t enough, visit his own site. He will be making updates as the trip progresses. Climb On, Alan!

The second update is coming by way of email from the HobyJackson Everest Expedition. If you will remember back a few days ago, I profiled the climbing team of Sandy Hoby and Brad Jackson. Well, Brad has emailed me with news of their arrival in Kathmandu as well–

“Kathmandu is superb at the moment
albeit a little hazy. As you can imagine, rumours and speculation are
rife about permits, elections, restrictions etc but we are all
pretty happy to have arrived in one piece and be making our way to
Lukla on Tuesday.

Today Phil and I started going over the electronics for base -camp,
going over solar panels, laptops and sat phones we will be using up
there. We will definitely be well connected up there.

I must admit in all the hustle and bustle of arriving in Kathmandu,
we accidentally drank beer and whiskey for 7 hours yesterday, so
some of us are a bit worse for wear this morning. I just rationalise
that as building tolerance for future onset of AMS symptoms.

Altitude Junkies and Mountain Professionals are both based in the
same hotel and flying to Lukla at the same time so undoubtably we
will get to know each other quite well.

p.s I won a photography competition

Through Brad’s dispatch, you get a glimpse of the excitement of arrival. Another interesting bit of information is that Sandy and Brad’s Expedition with Altitude Junkies happens to be based, at this time, near Mountain Professionals–the team Alan Arnette is going up with. They are all currently staying at the same hotel, and both flying out together to Lukla. Coincidence?

As for the Photography Contest Brad alludes to, he was kind enough to email me the link. I actually just stopped by there to check it out. Awesome Photo , Brad..and congratulations on winning the ‘Ice” competition with Alpine Exposures Photography! Stop by and check out his shots–

Sting Arrives in Kathmandu

Found an interesting article today concerning Sting, the former lead singer of The Police (yeah, I know, I am sure everybody already knows who he is.) Sting has been noted as arriving in Kathmandu for some adventure trekking with his family. This is his third sorjourn to the area in as many years, with last year seeing him pop up in a local nightclub then belting out a few of his own songs. Perhaps he has Everest on his mind..not so sure, but it would be hard to picture him with a set of Crampons on. Anyways, thought it was interesting.

I will keep you updated as I get more reports in, but so far it looks to be going pretty much as planned. In the next few days, teams will be heading out to Lukla, then making their long trek to Basecamp. Alan Arnette did mention that the IceDoctors are currently preparing the Khumbu Icefalls with ladders, and other Sherpas and climbers are already heading towards basecamp. Will keep you posted.

Everest 2008: Preliminary List of Rules for May 1st-10th on Mt. Everest and Lhasa

EverestNews has put up a bulletin today with a list of drafted rules for the South Everest and Lhasa climbs this season.  They state that these rules are preliminary and still need approval before they take effect.  These rules only regard the May 1-10th climbing period.  It is not known at this time if certain restrictions will be in place before the May 1st start of the Everest torch run from the Northern side.

Here are the Preliminary rules from May 1st-10th, courtesy of EverestNews:

These Temporary Rules will only apply for the climbing period   1 April-10 May

Issuing of permit and the route for spring 2008 for Everest and Lhotse:

1. The Government of Nepal and the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation will only issue permits for the South East Ridge Route on Mount Everest for the Spring of 2008. Similarly, for Lhotse, permits will only be granted for the normal route. No other routes will be granted by the ministry such as the West Ridge, Southwest Face and the South Pillar.
2. No Documentary filming permits will be issued for the spring of 2008 on Mount Everest and Lhotse.

Climbing Rules and Regulations:

1. All foreign and Nepali Climbers are permitted to climb from base camp to Camp 1, Camp 2 and Camp 3 until May 10th.
2. To Proceed to Camp 4 (South Col) and the Summit will only be allowed after May 10^th onwards with the permission from the ministry of Culture Tourism and Civil Aviation. Until then Camp 4 and the Summit climbs will be restricted.
3. Any rope fixing above camp 3 before May 10^th is strictly restricted.
4. All foreign and Nepali climbers will only be allowed to climb from base camp to camp1 and camp 2 (through the Khumbu Icefall) from 4 am onwards until 6 pm. This will not apply to any rescue efforts.
5. From Camp 2 to Camp 3 the permitted climbing time will be from 6 am to 6 pm only. This will not apply to rescue efforts.
6. No climbing will be permitted on the mountain after 6 pm. This will not apply to rescue efforts.
7. There will be a climbing liaison officer based at camp 2 and camp 3 who will monitor and enforce the temporary rules and regulations. Liaison officers will report to the government of Nepal after the expedition.

Communication:

A.  Satellite phones, computers/laptops and mobile phones will be under the supervision of liaison officers. Satellite phones will be available for the use of emergency and rescue. Climbers will be allowed to communicate with their own respective satellite phone to their agents and their families at regular base, under the supervision of the liaison officer till May 10^th. Weather reports can also be obtained by satellite phone under the supervision of the liaison officer.

B.  VHF communication sets will be permitted for use for the duration of the expedition at the frequency set by the Government of Nepal

Photography:

1. No Personal video Camera will be allowed to be used at base camp and above until May 10^th. These items will also be under the supervision of the Liaison officer.
2. All foreign nationals will not display any flags, banners or stickers that may harm the diplomatic relations between Nepal and its neighboring countries.
3. All Expedition handling agents in Nepal will sign a written agreement with the government of Nepal that they will take full responsibility for any behavior or activities aimed at discrediting Nepal’s neighboring countries.
4. There will be a checkpoint established by the Government of Nepal at Gorakshep (5200m). This checkpoint will be monitored and managed by 3 associations and institutions of Nepal:
   
   1. Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee
   2. Sagarmatha National Park
   3. Nepal Army or Police force
5. The above expenses for the checkpoint at Gorakshep will be covered by the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee or the Government of Nepal from the Funds that they have raised from the Royalty from the Ice fall and the peak Permit.
6. This will apply to all group visitors who wish to trek to Base Camp for a day visit or a night halt. Please note that all the trekking guides who are escorting the group must carry an identity card issued by their company. Failure to show the identity card will result in the Group not being permitted to travel to Base Camp.

Media and Press:

1. Press and Media will only be allowed to visit base camp with permission from the Government of Nepal. Liaison officers will have the right to inspect filming permits.
2. The Government of Nepal has the right to inspect all footage for censorship reasons.

Helicopter flights:

1. No helicopters flights will be allowed to land at base camp until May 10^th except for mountain rescue.

These flight will have to be authorized by the Himalayan Rescue Association.

Please Visit EverestNews for more information.

The First, no, The Second Ascent of Brain Freeze

Dougald Macdonald has put up an interesting piece on his blog–The Mountain World– concerning a new route put up in Rocky Mountain National Park.  Dougald says he spotted the possible route last year on the south face of Mt. Otis.  He then waited till March, which he was hoping would be the perfect time to make the first ascent.

As it goes–the early bird gets the worm.

Upon going to the First Ascents page over on the Montain Project site, Dougald discovered that his route had already been ascended by Andy Grauch and Chris Sheridan–and aptly named ‘Brain Freeze.’

I am sure that had to be a surreal moment after planning the route for over a year!  Luckily Dougald went ahead and put up a Second Ascent of Brain Freeze and shares that trip report with us on his blog.  CLICK HERE to read about this interesting route.

Everest 2008: Sir Ranulph Fiennes–Back to Everest

Sir Ranulph Fiennes’ will be embarking on his second trip to Mt. Everest this season. The legendary adventurer and explorer should need no introduction, but be it as it may, here is a brief rundown of what Sir Ranulph Fiennes has accomplished in over 40 years of adventure:

• A member of the Transglobe Expedition from 1979-1982 featuring fellow adventurers Oliver Sheperd and Charles Burton. Using surface transport only, the team covered 52,000, including both poles, becoming the first people to ever make it to both poles on land.
• In 1992, Fiennes, while on an expedition to Oman, help discover the lost city of Ubar.
• In 1993, Fiennes joined Mike Stroud for a first Unsupported attempt at crossing Antarctica. The attempt was unsuccessful after the two had to be rescued from the Ross Ice Shelf on Day 95.
• In 2000, he attempted to walk solo and unsupported to the north pole, again without success.
• In 2003 Fiennes joined Stroud once again for the running of 7 marathons in 7 days on 7 continents. This feat was accomplished just three weeks after Fiennes had suffered a heart attack which resulted in a double-bypass surgery.
• In 2005, Fiennes reached 28,500 feet on Mt. Everest.
• In March 2007, Fiennes climbed the North Face of the Eiger.
• In 2008, Fiennes will once again be attempting Mt. Everest. This time from the Nepali South Side. He will be joining Kenton Kool to try to raise funds for the Marie Curie Cancer Care Fund
• Along with all the adventure, Fiennes has also become a well-respected adventure writer and historian. He has authored 13 books in both fiction and nonfiction, including a recent acclaimed biography of Captain Robert Scott.

Sir Ranulph Fiennes and Kenton Kool’s Everest adventure will be broadcast with video pieces featured on YouTube. While visiting the site (after learning about it from the Everest is Ours Blog), they have put up a nice 10 minute interview with Sir Ranulph Fiennes. He talks about Mt. Everest, training, some of the great expeditions, as well as the route and other neccesities associated with his 2008 climb. Pretty interesting piece, so I have decided to put it up here. Hope you enjoy.

You can follow along with Sir Ranulph Fiennes and Kenton Kool by way of their YouTube videos or their personal website: http://www.everestchallenge.org.uk.

“I was supposed to be laying out the ropes that will be used by expeditions including the Chinese one, but have not been given a permit,” WHAT RUSSELL BRICE!?!….

Rumors have been flying about Russell Brice over the last couple of weeks. Russell has not spoken out at all in regards to the situation in Tibet–his own expeditions–or even the rumor that he may be helping the chinese with their olympic torch run up the north.

I have been contacting people in regards to this mess with many of them putting it off as senseless rumors and allegations-with the latest coming a couple of days ago through David Tait who was planing on joining the Himex team this season on the North, but has since canceled to join a South Side expedition.

It is known that Russell Brice’s Sherpas generally set the ropes leading to the summit of Mt. Everest on the North. His team has been doing this for years. The recent unrest in Tibet, along with China not allowing any expeditions to take place on the North, had many wondering what Russell Brice would be doing in April.

Coming from an article just released at Breitbart.com, it seems that Brice was expecting to help the Chinese by laying rope as he has done in years past: Brice, as quoted by Breitbart:

“I was supposed to be laying out the ropes that will be used by expeditions including the Chinese one, but have not been given a permit”

It looks like Russell Brice answered all of our questions for us. He had planned on helping the Chinese, but they refused to give him a permit. This will open up many questions…

Just the other day, while I was talking to David Tait, I happened to ask him about Russell. Read more

Everest 2008: Video: Olympic Torch Ceremony Disrupted By Free Tibet Protests

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sju0Jod9SbU]

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQI0bshOJ2c]

China must be crazy to think this is going to be a peaceful Torch Run. Only look to see this get worse as the run progresses toward Mt. Everest–

Everest 2008: Adventure Consultants Heading Out–Still Awaiting Word on Permit–32 Permits Issued?

This is coming straight from a Press Release from Adventure Consultants Expedition leader Guy Cotter, by way of SCOOP.

Media release – March 24, 2008

NZ expedition now expected to be given the go ahead – top Kiwi leader unsure of terms and restrictions for Everest expedition

Top New Zealand expedition leader Guy Cotter today confirmed from Kathmandu tonight that Nepal is likely to issue permits for expeditions to summit Everest in May – but tight conditions and restrictions as a result of the Beijing Olympic Games torch run are expected.

Cotter said it had been indicated that the permits would be issued for Everest this year but they are still unclear of the final wording of the permits and the unusual conditions due to the Chinese Olympic torch run on the Tibetan side of the mountain.

The various groups who may be affected by the wording of
the permits (Nepalese Mountaineering Association, Trekking
Agencies association of Nepal and the expedition teams)
still have some trepidation as to the final outcome, Cotter
said tonight.

It seems the Nepalese authorities are
delaying their final decision on how they will address the
issue of the permits as long as possible. We understand
that Cabinet must now countersign the document before final
permits are issued which is an indication of how this issue
is being regarded as a hot potato by the
authorities.

All of our guiding staff have arrived into
Nepal and we will be very pleased to get going on the
expedition and leave the politics behind in Kathmandu.

Our clients arrive this week and we will be beginning
the expedition in earnest on March 30 with the intention of
our group reaching the summit towards the end of May.

The conditions that the Nepalese government are
reported to be applying to the expeditions will keep
everybody off the upper mountain between May 1-10 and this
will disrupt our climbing plans to a degree and potentially
lead to our summit climb being achieved right at the end of
May rather than around May 20 as we normally
do.’’

Cotter is scheduled to lead one of 32
expeditions and the only NZ expedition to the summit of
Everest this year.

He has reached the Everest summit four
times already and has become of one of New Zealand’s
greatest expedition organisers.

He has played a lead role
in urging China and Nepal to reach a resolution to the issue
fuelled by the Beijing Olympics torch run.

Cotter flew to
Nepal last week for his latest expedition. He organises
mountaineering expeditions to Mt Everest through a Wanaka
company Adventure Consultants which he took over after the
Everest death of Rob Hall, the original founder, in 1996.

The Sherpa climbing community has been in a state of
shock after the stalling of the annual expeditions to Tibet
and the ‘non opening’ of expedition peaks within Nepal.

Hundreds, if not thousands, of climbing Sherpas would
have lost their annual income they derive from their intense
but relatively highly paid efforts on Mt Everest, Cotter
said.

The support industries that have been built around
expeditions will also be left penniless if the politicians
in Kathmandu stay sitting on their hands except to take time
to deny to the world that they have placed bans on
expeditions this season.

This is the first time since
Nepal opened its borders to foreigners in 1951 that climbing
Mt Everest has been disrupted.

New Zealand has had a close
association with Nepalese authorities and the Sherpas since
the late Sir Ed Hillary became the first person to reach the
Everest summit in May
1953.

ENDS

Everest 2008: HobyJackson Expedition Gearing up for South

Brad Jackson and Sandy Hoby are hoping to make the 2008 Mt. Everest season a success. They will be leaving their native Australia on friday. Brad contacted me lastnight with news that the permit Altitude Junkies, with whom Brad and Sandy will be climbing, had applied for on the South has been granted. Originally, like quite a few expeditions this year, they were planing on a North Expedition until China decided to change everyone’s plans.

“My partner and I are off to Kathmandu this Friday with Altitude Junkies (Phil Crampton) to attempt the South side of Everest. We initially planned to attempt via Tibet but we all know what happened there.

“We got to 7,200 m last year on Cho Oyu till we got kicked off due to bad weather and a closing permit with IMG this year but both felt fit and umm..reasonably healthy (a touch of the AMS, now and then), so hoping to give Everest our best shot this year.

As they mentioned, they will be climbing with Altitude Junkies in 2008 and led by Phil Crampton who will be leading his 5th expedition up the world’s tallest peak. Phil has lead expeditions in the Himalayan region for over 10 years. Phil is already in Kathmandu finalizing preparations for the team and awaiting their arrival.

Sandy Hoby will be climbing for the Cure Our Kids Foundation

Sandy, herself was diagnosed with a rare form of cancer–FAP–which is elaborated on at the Cure Our Kids website:

“People with FAP inevitably succumb to bowel cancer and rarely live past 30. That is, unless they have their whole large intestine removed – which was the case with Sandy. Having been diagnosed early, Sandy was lucky to have had this medical intervention to prolong her life. Yet, what it also means is that she has a much lower than normal immune system. So even common ailments such as a cold can seriously jeopardise her health.

But her condition hasn’t stopped Sandy from living life to the full. Quite the opposite. It’s taught her to seize every opportunity for happiness, and above all to strive to achieve an abundance of peak experiences which life has on offer.

Now, with the world’s tallest mountain as her forthcoming challenge, Sandy needs your support. She is taking on this mammoth expedition with the aim to help kids with cancer at the Children’s Hospital at Westmead experience as much joy and wellbeing as their limited lives might allow. Yet, to achieve this important goal she asks you to please make a donation to Cure Our Kids.

You can learn a bit more about Sandy and Brad by visiting their personal site HobyJackson 2008 and taking a look around. They offer a glimpse into their daily life, as well as some very good photos of some of their past expeditions–including Cho Oyu.

Altitude Junkies will be making daily updates to the teams progress on the expeditions website–just go there and click ‘news’ to follow along.

Also, I am hoping to gain an interview with the pair as well as some special reports once they get to Kathmandu–pending approval from Phil Crampton.

Many teams will be enroute to Kathmandu–a few are already there, others will be leaving in the next couple of days to meet up with teammates. The 2008 Mt. Everest climbing season is getting ready to kick off–once the teams are in Kathmandu, daily reports should start kicking in. I will try to keep all of you updated, not only on the Altitude Junkies Expedition, but on the rest as well. It is going to be an exciting year!

By the way, stop on over and check out Brad and Sandy’s Expedition, and if you have an extra five bucks, help support Sandy’s Cause. I am sure they will appreciate all the help they can get.

EVEREST 2008: The Alan Arnette Interview

In a week, Alan Arnette will be leaving for his third expedition to Mt. Everest. The first two attempts landed Alan at about the 27,200 Ft. mark-a bit short of the summit. Over the past year he has been training extensively for this opportunity on some of the world’s highest and toughest peaks including Denali, Shisha Pangma, Orizaba, and Anconcagua.

Alan is climbing Mt. Everest to help raise awareness about Alzheimers, as well as funds for the CURE ALZHEIMERS FUND.

I have recently had the opportunity to conduct an interview with Alan about his upcoming expedition to the world’s highest peak.

The Adventurist: In a few days you will be leaving for Nepal for your third expedition on Mt. Everest. What keeps bringing you back?

Alan Arnette: Mountains make me feel alive. Nepal has some of the best plus the interaction with the Tibetan and Nepali people send me home a better person. So while Everest is the goal it is not the only reason to return.

The Adventurist: You have been training for almost a year now exclusively for this trip, can you relate how your training has went and how you are currently feeling compared to your two previous expeditions on Everest?

Alan Arnette: I had some ups and downs on my four climbs (Denali, Shish Pangma, Aconcagua and Orizaba) but that was the point – to “shake the issues out” before Everest. I think my physical conditioning is better than five years ago but mentally, I am significantly more confident.

The Adventurist: This year, you are climbing for the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund. Alzheimer’s became a big part of your life when your mother was diagnosed with this dreaded disease. First off, can you tell us how she is doing, then elaborate a bit on this higher calling of yours. Read more

9 Ft. Robot + Stilts + 1200 Helium Balloons = ? (A Great Year for adventurer Lloyd Scott)

Lloyd Scott has participated in high adventure activities for well over a decade. He has logged some of the world’s highest peaks, taken expeditions to both Poles, ran some of the world’s toughest marathons, and all the while wearing some of the zaniest equipment we have ever seen.

In 2002, Lloyd Scott completed The London Marathon wearing a deep-sea diving suit. He has also competed wearing a 130 lb. suit of armour, and dressed as Indiana Jones while hauling a huge boulder. In 1996, Lloyd competed in full polar expedition gear. Can it get any weirder?

To put it lightly, YES.

On April 13th, Lloyd will once again be competing in the London Marathon. He will take on the whole 26 mile course on stilts–while being inside the body of a nine foot robot-

Yeah, you heard it right.

Lloyd Scott’s wacky takes on adventure has resulted in nearly $7 million being raised for different charities over the course of 19 years. When we see that he is doing all of this for charity, how can we judge? He knows what garners attention and how to use that for a bigger cause-

His charitable interests have not come without a toll though. Due to Lloyd’s high adventure antics and continuously putting high levels of stress on his body, he has had to undergo over 20 surgeries, including 2 hip replacements, as well as almost being killed in 1996 after falling into an ice crevice near the South Pole.

If the big robot on stilts isn’t enough to raise your eyebrows, perhaps you will delight in a couple more of his upcoming adventures.

Later this year, Lloyd Scott is planning on attempting to break the world altitude helium balloon record. Lloyd is hoping that 1200 small balloons will take him the height needed to establish a new record. All 1200 balloons will be strapped to a deckchair. As for Lloyd? He will be dressed as a clown.

“I thought I’d be able to lower myself down at the end by
gradually popping the balloons but I have been told it would be safer to
parachute down.

He is already planing next year’s London Marathon as well:

“I have started work on plans to build a giant Tyrannosaurus Rex
which I could wheel along from the inside, standing in one of its legs. I
like the idea that to spectators it would look like the dinosaur was
creeping along of its own accord.

Next year will represent Lloyd Scott’s 20th Anniversary of conquering leukemia.

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