EVEREST 2008: Alan Arnette Begins Packing, South Side Expedition a Go!

My good friend, Alan Arnette, has been told to pack his bags for Mt. Everest. Over the course of the last few days, Alan has went from going up the North side of Everest, to canceling the North–to utter confusion as to if he would even be allowed to climb on the North or South sides–to finally, today, being able to announce that his expedition would indeed be proceeding as planned, albeit from the South-

This is the first good word to come out of the last few days regarding Mt. Everest. If you have been following along, the north side of Mt. Everest was closed to any expeditions this season except for the Chinese’s plan to run the Olympic torch up Mt. Everest. China then asked Nepal for the same courtesy from the South regarding a May 1st-10th restriction on letting climbers towards the summit. It is believed that this restriction will be followed by Nepal.

Alan informs us today that most summit bids don’t begin till after May 15th, so this slight change of plans could possibly not have much effect on the south side climbers. Most were only questioning how the acclimatization process would be affected during this period anyways.

“I am extremely grateful that our expedition leaders moved swiftly when
the Chinese announced restrictions on the north side and secured
permits and logistics support on the south as a backup for our team.
Also, our entire team including our Nepali Sherpas have agreed to make
the switch thus we will be climbing together.

Alan Arnette has been on a year long journey to help raise awareness for Alzheimers Research and raise much needed funds for the Cure Alzheimers Fund, for which he will be making his third bid on Mt. Everest for. Alan was also on Mt. Everest in 2002, then returned in 2003. Each time he had made it to around 27,000 feet, before health, weather, or his own judgement caused him to turn back. His previous two expeditions have found him climbing from the South (Nepal) side, so at least this slight change of plans will have Alan in familiar territory. Hopefully we will see him make that extra 2,028 feet and finally get to see him stand atop the summit.

This journey, as many of us have followed along here at The Adventurist, has taken Alan from Colorado to Denali, Aconcagua, Orizaba, Shisha Pangma and a host of other high altitude locations in preparation for his ultimate goal: Mt. Everest.

This will be Alan’s third attempt. He will once again be climbing through the Khumbu Icefalls following the South Col Route and hopefully up and over the Hillary Step on his way to a successful summit. His first two attempts didn’t fare so well, but they say the third time is the charm–we can all cross our fingers and wish Alan a happy and safe journey.

“I understand that several major expeditions have canceled their north
side climbs and will reschedule for 2009 thus not moving to the south.
This will relieve some of the anticipated crowding that could have
happened if everyone had gone south.

Those major expeditions that Alan speaks of were the recent announcements of both 7Summits and the Kazakh Everest-Lhotse Traverse being called off. Many other expeditions planning on climbing from the North will probably be making the same announcements in the coming days, with others possibly gaining permits on the South. It is known that some of the larger expeditions like IMG and Alpine Ascents had gained permits to be on both sides of Mt. Everest this year. Others, like Alex Abramov’s 7Summits Expedition have decided to call it a day, but ensure that this years team will be back next year–with no added cost for the climbers. One good note concerning Alex Abramov’s 7Summits Club, Alex has stated that he is still planning on going to Kathmandu in order to pay his Sherpa’s their fair due for his expedition having to cancel due to political circumstances–hopefully the rest will follow suit as well.

Now back to Alan Arnette–I have been in contact with Alan for over a year now. I can still remember feeling the butterflies when we all learned last season, while Alan was covering the Mt. Everest season on his own site, that he was planning on heading back-It did come as a bit of a shock, but not a surprise. Anybody that knows him knows how much climbing means to him–we also know that Everest would be a dream come true. He has worked hard and dilligently for his goals, always keeping his future and his self in check. Denali–I can remember the trepidation as we learned Alan was airlifted off North America’s tallest peak–being a friend, I couldn’t get information fast enough–this was to be his first big training climb for the year ahead. It didn’t go as planned. His health became an issue, he was airlifted off Denali, and soon found himself in the hospital with an undiagnosed condition. A couple weeks later, Alan was back at home where he assured us that he was feeling better, but still a bit confused on what had happened. Luckily Alan rebounded and was able to stay on schedule. Doctors cleared him to climb once again. We could now exhale.

On a personal level, Alan is a great guy. He has been there for the ups and downs. He has helped me immensely with my own understanding of the mountain world–and has been their to critique me as well–which keeps us all on the same keel. I know what this means to him. I also know that he has the strength to pull this off and the smarts to back away if it looks bad. The Alzheimers Research Fund that Alan is climbing for has become a HUGE part of his life. His mother was diagnosed with this terrible and dibilitating disease. He knows first hand what it does to the victim and the families of those with loved ones affected. He has financed his own expedition this year. All money given to Alan goes directly to the Alzheimer’s Research Fund, for which, he is hoping that he can help fund research that will one day lead to a cure. A very noble and worthy cause. I ask all of you, my readers, to swing by his site. I know many of you already have and do, but go there with the purpose of reading about his story and how Alzheimers has affected not only his mother, but him as well. I think you will get a whole new understanding of what drives Alan. Everest? Everest is only a means to a way–if you feel moved by this quest, by all means support the cause, The Cure Alzheimers Fund. $5.00 could be the means to a cure. I know Alan would appreciate all the help he can get-

As for myself, Alan has assured us that he will be making posts, including audio and video, from Mt. Everest. I will continue to follow him and cheer him on both personally and through The Adventurist. I talked to him the other day about doing an interview here, (and I am sure he is still waiting on me) but hopefully Thursday (my day off) I can get that taken care of–that will be something to look forward to as well-Alan leaves in three two weeks. We will continue to follow along with the latest Mt. Everest news and the recent political situation as it occurs in both Tibet and Nepal.

Final Words–GOOD LUCK, ALAN! CLIMB ON–