Everest 2008: Icefall Doctors, Puja Ceremonies and Acclimatization–Dispatches Pouring In

The climbers involved in the Everest Expeditions this season are well on their way to Basecamp. Many are already logging daily reports to their expedition and personal websites, and others are sending in reports through email.

First up, the HobyJackson Expedition:

“We are currently in Dingboche. Cant believe there is an internet cafe
here now at 4,300m. It has basically been snowing on and off since we
left tengboche and quite a bit of snow here today. Basically
Adventure Consultants, Summitclimb, Mountain professionals and us
have been winding our way up the Khumbu at the same pace, leading to
all of us at one stage trying to cram into the same monestary in
Pangboche to get the same blessing from a rather busy Buddhist Monk.
If my hands werent numb and condensation from my breath covering the
screen, I would type more but not only is this internet cafe ‘high’
but also unheated.

Brad Jackson mentioned that Adventure Consultants, SummitClimb, and Mountain Professionals were all going about the same pace. My good friend Alan Arnette has updated us today as well, who happens to be with the Mountain Professionals Expedition.

Alan Arnette’s update includes a bit more information on the Puja Ceremony:

“Yesterday we visited Lama Geshi for a Puja at his home. This was the fourth time I have visited him. He looks a little older but he still has that gentle nature about him. There are many teams moving up valley at the same time so it was crowded in his home. We all went into a room together and sat on blanket covered benches. Lama Geshi’s daughter translates for him. The room is cold and Lama Gashi wears a down jacket over his crimson robe.

“The ceremony is very detailed. First he takes a thin yellow or red string and places it around our neck. Then we give the silk scarf to his daughter with an offering in it. He says a brief prayer and the scarf is placed back around our neck. We move to the bench and sit quietly while he does the same ceremony with all the other climbers.

The Lama then begins to chant prayers for our safety and permission to climb the mountain while tossing rice into the air and occasionally ringing a small bell. The entire ceremony last about 20 minutes. Today he must have blessed over 100 climbers and Sherpa.

All climbers are required to take part in the Puja Ceremony before they attempt a climb on Everest. In both Nepal and Tibet, Mt. Everest is a sacred place, only those blessed may step on her sacred ground. The intention being that after the sacred asking of permission and safety on Everest, that Everest will allow the climbers a safe journey–I have never heard of anyone bypassing this important bit of culture between man and mountain, and my guess is–on Everest a person will need all the help they can get, so why trust luck?

Mountain Madness

“There’s an Internet Cafe’ here, advertised as the world’s highest and a scattering of hotels are here, too. As with everything, costs have gone up as we continue to trek further and further from civilization. Recharging a laptop battery costs you 250 Rupee here, vice 100 Rupee in Tengbuche. Sodas, candy, etc all increase in cost understandably. Sending two emails, I learned, cost you 500 Rupee- just short of $10.

Yesterday after we rolled in, both Francisco and I had raging headaches that we worked through by hypersaturating with water. It took me about four hours to get over mine, Francisco had his a little longer but was the savior that vounteered up Tylenol that finally kicked it for us. I credit my headache to the speed hike to the monastary yesterday- a dumb move in retrospect. Given that my last name isn’t “Sherpa”, I deserved what I got.

My guess is that this is the same internet cafe that Brad Jackson sent his email to me from–sounds like it is the last stop before basecamp and the ‘uncertainty’ kicks in. We all found out earlier in the week that all electronics at Basecamp will be locked up until May 10th–the date China has given Nepal for the end of their expedition on the North Side, and the beginig of the South Side Expedition’s sumit attempts.

Mountain Madness also comments a bit on the effects of the altitude. Even at 4-5,000 meters, the climbers are definately feeling it a bit..look for this situation to get better as the climbers reach basecamp and have a bit of time to adjust. Once at Basecamp they will have almost a month and a half to get properly acclimated.

Some expeditions that were planning a trip from the South this season are still in route or awaiting permits. EcoEverest, David Tait, Andrew Brash, Myles Osborne, and Dan Mazur–The Lincoln Hall Rescuers, as well as a few others have not started posting yet–but I am sure we will be hearing from them in the next few days. The Alaskan Granite Expedition that ExplorersWeb had up on their ‘updated’ Expeditions list has called it quits before it ever began. Instead they will be concentrating their efforts on raising more money for a possible North Side Expedition next season.

From SummitClimb:

“I’m calling from Pangboche at about 3950 metres/13,000 feet and it’s a snowy day. All of the members have left and are walking to Pheriche today, 4200 metres/13,900 feet. Everybody is doing fine and we are strong and healthy.

Yesterday we had a big puja ceremony led by the lama here in Pangboche and the expedition got blessed, so we are good to go now to base camp. We decided to stay one extra night in Pangboche because we had some problems getting enough porters and yaks. All of the teams are moving up at the same time because of the permits being issued so late this year. While creating some minor logistical problems in the valley for others, it’s not going to affect our expedition at all.

Alpine Ascents:

“We arose early hopeful of catching dawns light on the summit slopes of Everest but our dreams were denied by unusual morning clouds. To better our acclimatization, we trekked up to the mountain village of Kumjung. We visited the school that Sir Edmund Hillary help establish. It is now quite a complex with buildings sponsored by many different countries. In further hopes of sighting the big “E” we took tea at the Everest View Hotel but were foiled again by clouds. Clouds that built though out the day until they couldn’t stand it any longer. With a deafening clap of thunder, snow and hail painted the Namche in winter.

This could make trekking to our next destination, the village of Thame, a bit of a slog. But please don’t let a little moisture keep you away.

From International Mountain Guides:

IMG Leader Mark Tucker reports that the first group has reached Gorak Shep (about 17,000′) and the other teams are now in Lobuche. Gorak Shep is not a village, just a couple of small lodges on the edge of the Khumbu Glacier moraine, below the popular viewpoint of Kala Patar (about 1000′ higher). A short distance above Gorak Shep the route drops down onto glacier, and ascends through the rocks and that cover the ice to the site of Base Camp. So far everything is going well, and the climbers and trekkers are all on schedule, with the first team planning to go to Base Camp tomorrow.

Adventure Peaks

Adventure Peaks has recently arrived at Namche Bazaar. They are reporting that all is well and everyone is fine. Adventure Peaks will be going on an acclimatization trek tomorrow.

Peak Freaks

“Today the team was practicing skills in the ice-fall. The ice-fall doctors took a day off and they are expected to be finished fixing the ladders and ropes through this section in about four days time. So far the EverestER medical facility has been assembled and one lone Korean climber has arrived. Tomorrow Lama Da will be arriving to perform our expeditions Puja ceremony. After the ice-fall is done and the Puja, it is time to LET THE CLIMB BEGIN! The Sherpas for spiritual reasons will never put foot on the mountain without participating in this very important ritual. The food is blessed, the climbers and their equipment.

Peak Freaks seem to be a bit ahead of everyone else, already practicing skills in the Icefall. They also noted another very important event. The Ice Fall Doctors, a group of Sherpas who are specifically paid to lay down ladders and ropes across the most dangerous area on Mt. Everest, The Khumbu Icefall, have nearly completed their mission. Last season seen nearly thirty ladders crossing the crevices in this varied landscape, with as many as four ladders roped together to cross one crevice. Add a set of crampons to the feet, the gear on your back, the melting ice of spring–and you can imagine why this area is very tricky. It is said that the ice in this area can move as much as 4 feet in a day, no wonder the Icefall Doctors, who were profiled last season in Outside Magazine, have possibly one of the world’s most dangerous jobs. Without them, nothing would be possible from the South. Hopefully they will get this intricate part of the process shored up in the coming days.

Looks like, at this point, everything is on schedule. Not much, if anything, is being said about the recent turmoil of the Tibet-Nepal region, and to the climbers, politics shouldn’t be a part of it anyways-It is about the climb. Let’s hope it stays that way.