Everest 2008: The Nepali Army Arrives at Basecamp–Brings South Side Climbers to Halt
April 14, 2008
We were all wondering when it was going to happen. It finally has.
A couple of weeks back it was mentioned on this site, as well as others, that Nepal was issuing permits for the South side of Everest. This was good news considering that China had abruptly closed the North to all expeditions because of their quest to bring the Olympic torch to the top via the North Col route.
Climbers were required to sign a legal paper with a set list of rules for expeditions to follow on the South, by the Nepal authorities. This paper included how high climbers could climb during the May 1-10th, as well as regards to communications and the establishment of Liaison climbing officers in Basecamp, Camp 1, and Camp 2 on Everest.
Peak Freaks, through their communications blog, is reporting that the Liaison Officer for Basecamp arrived today. The senior liaison officer then proceeded to put a halt to the progress taking place in the Khumbu Icefalls by calling the Icefall Doctors, a small group of sherpa’s that help lay rope and ladders through the maze of crevices at the Icefall, over and telling them to quit fixing ropes up the route.
“Leaders were told that the ice-fall doctors have been given permission to complete the route to Camp 1 but no one was to climb until the military officials have all arrived.”
This is coming after a meeting with officials in the Peak Freaks tent in regards to the Icefall closure.
Adventure Consultants chimed in a bit later with a report of there own:
“This is all part of the unusual regulations being enforced due to Chinese plans to light the Olympic Torch on Everest, complicated by the recent Nepalese elections and the continued closure of all Nepalese Government Departments. This is all quite frustrating for all Everest expeditions who wish to get C1 and C2 established and stocked.
Adventure Consultants then acknowledged that the Nepali Army Major is due into Camp tomorrow , with hopefully more news that will give climbers a better understanding of what is going on at Basecamp.
David Tait, who scratched a North Side bid to climb from the South after China closed off the North, is reporting that all helicopter flights into Basecamp have also been halted by the Nepal Government. This is due in regards to pressure brought on by China over the security of their bid to put the torch on the summit. David says that he has been told that the only flights into and out of Basecamp this year could be for emergency personnel and evacs only–if they are needed, and only then if it is approved by someone very high up in the Nepal Government.
David had actually flown in to Kathmandu for emergency dental work-he learned all of this as he was preparing to fly into Basecamp. Instead David and his Sherpa were required to hike the distance from Lukla to Basecamp.
Tensions are definitely running a bit high in camp. The Nepal liaison officers and army have everyone on edge, with nobody really knowing what is actually going on and what will become of this season’s climb. Many teams were preparing to head on up thorugh the Icefalls and try to get the higher Camps 1 & 2 set and stocked for the climbers as the officers entered Camp. It is not known at this time what effects if any, this will eventually have in the whole acclimatization process–it is known that any hold-up at all, at this point, could be devestating to climbers who have planned for over a year to get to where they are.
ExplorersWeb is noting today that it seems as if the Maoists have won the general election held in Nepal a couple of days ago as well. If this indeed proves to be true, then the whole of Nepal’s government could be changing in the coming days and weeks, The Maoists will be taking control and Nepal’s decades old Royal Family could be very well out of jobs. It is not known if this will hold any effects on this season’s Everest climb as well. New government generally means new rules. We will have to wait and see.
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