Everest 2008: Communications Locked Down in South Basecamp, China Moving Towards North Col, and Current Summit Conditions

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Just a quick update-We all know that not much is coming off of Mt. Everest as far as news. The communications ban placed on the climbers in Nepal has severely hampered any information coming from the teams the last couple of days. Unless another means of communication is sought out, it may be a long time between updates.

ExplorersWeb has been able to obtain a bit of information, but nothing like usual. ExWeb has enacted a “Climbers Without Borders” hotline for the climbers in the Everest and Himalayan regions to use, if..and that is a BIG if at this point, someone can get to a land based phone or even sneak a Sat Phone to Basecamp. We will have to see how this hotline is recieved. We do know that China, who was the basis for enacting the communications ban in the first place, has ill feelings towards ExWeb over their coverage of the Nangpa La incident in 2006. China, along with Nepal, will be monitoring any communications from basecamp.

From ExWeb:

“Reports from Everest state that yesterday the Nepalese Army actually searched all camps confiscating satellite phones, VHF radios, pda’s, computers, video cameras etc.

Well, that was about it from the South side of Everest, and even that is more than we expected.

ExWeb does talk a little bit about the Liaison Officers that are to be at Basecamp, Camp 1 and Camp 2, till that May 10th deadline, including the mention of Apa Sherpa-who holds the record for most Everest summits (17), as being a possible Officer. This would not surprise me, personally, but it would surprise me that he would support and help enact such a ban against other climbers. Apa Sherpa is well known both in Nepal and the United States (where he resides most of the year). But, money talks.

EverstNews has chirped up with an update of their own concerning the Chinese Expedition to take the Olympic Torch up the North (Tibetan) side of Everest..

From EverestNews:

“Climbers on the Tibetan side of Everest at 7500 meters. High winds. Ropes only to 7500 meters. A long way to go….

Once again not much info, but little is better than none at all. From the North, it sounds like weather is being a bit of an issue. From looking at the route map of the North Col route, which China is taking, it looks like ropes have been laid up to Advanced Basecamp and just a little past. They will next be heading to the North Col where Camp 1 is generally set at 24,000 ft. Earlier reports were stating that China was hoping to begin the first of four summit pushes around the 28th of April. Being the 17th, I would say that they have quite a bit of work to get done before that is even thought of. With an army of Sherpas, as well as their own army, China could get it done if the weather cooperates. I think all of us are pulling for an early summit push for the torch expedition that way the real climbing can commence on the South–

Speaking of the North side weather situation, I don’t have info for 7500 meters, but I do have a report for current SUMMIT conditions, and up high, that wind is definitely a bit nasty. At 6pm Nepal time, the wind was blowing over the summit at 60 knots from the northwest. Temperatures have been holding steady the past couple of days at around -32 degrees celsius. Not very good summit weather, but as we start to see that jetstream pull away, conditions should start to get better as April comes to a close.

I would like to thank the guys over at EverestWeather and WestCoastWeather for keeping me updated on this situation and current summit conditions on Mt. Everest. These guys are the same ones who report directly into the Expedition Camps with weather reports and have worked with some of the top expedition companies in the business. Truly top notch. If your thinking about an Expedition to Everest, be sure to keep them in mind for all of your weather needs.