Ueli Steck Scales New Heights With 2008 Eiger Award

By Jo Adams

OF all the mountains, in all the ranges across the world, few have provoked the myriad of feelings that the north face of the Eiger has.

All at once, terrifying, magnificent and inspirational, the Eigernordwand is as steeply enriched with history as it is with limestone and it is this history that has time and again lent mountaineers to show tenacity, courage and unlimited self-confidence every time they step foot on it.

In doing so, prepared as they are to take that extra step, they motivate us and encourage us, forcing us by their own deeds to take a more introspective look on life than we ever normally would.

Whether or not the mountaineers themselves acknowledge this would vary from one to another as generally speaking they are a modest and reticent band when it comes to talking about their achievements in life, preferring instead to let the mountains tell their story.

When the Eiger Award for 2008 was announced in Grindelwald at the end of May it was no different a scenario as the recipient, Ueli Steck, looked as if sprinting up the north face of the Eiger was a doddle in comparison to standing on a podium in front of his peers.

Swiss born Steck (31) has been appropriately recognized not only for a solo ascent of the north face of the Eiger (which saw him register an incredible speed record for the notoriously difficult vertical face), but for his mountaineering in general, his personality and of course his courageous attempt to rescue stricken Spanish climber Iñaki Ochoa on Annapurna just 10 days before.

Modest in the extreme,  Steck described his climb to Ochoa (along with fellow Swiss alpinist Simon Anthamatten) as ‘just something you do’.

“If you were walking down the street and you saw someone who needed help you would give it to them.”

Hardly an apt comparison for the two climbers who not only immediately headed up the storm ravaged Annapurna face to 7,400m, but did so ill-equipped, as they had already stored their gear for their own attempt while waiting for the weather to show some signs of kindness.

“We couldn’t climb up and get all our gear, come back down and then go again, it would have been impossible. So we climbed in regular boots, ones you would use for a summer climb in the Alps.” Steck said.

“We left base camp and got as far as 6,900m but when we got there because we didn’t have the right climbing boots on Simon had to stay put. I was only able to go on because the Russian climber Alexi Bolotov came down from the summit and he swapped boots with me. Luckily they were a size 45, if they had of been 42 it would have been Simon who went on alone.”

Were any thoughts given to the dangerous circumstances?

“We took every care up there. It was no more or no less dangerous than at any other time. We went high and we went fast but we still took every possible care.”

Prior to the rescue attempt, which threw Steck’s name into the worldwide media, he was starting to gain a somewhat unfair reputation as a ‘mad’ climber for his speed records and his solo ascents.

“There were some people who were saying I was mad, crazy, for setting speed records and doing so many solo ascents but it’s really good to know that there are some people out there who understand what Alpinism is all about.

“To win the Eiger Award is great, but like reaching a summit for the first time, it hasn’t really sunk in yet.”

The Eigernordwand solo speed record was previously held by Christoph Hainz when in 2003 he climbed it in 04:30.00, but then Steck came along in 2007 and registered 03:45.00.

Not content with that he returned in February 2008 and proceeded to shake the life out of his own time by registering a mind blowing 2:47:33.

“It’s a very special mountain to me, I’ve climbed it so many times and while I would never lose respect for the mountain, to me it is my playground.” said Steck.

“The Heckmair route is no less difficult now than it was in 1938 (first ascent).

“What has changed is the equipment we use and the skills of the individual mountaineers, the dangers are still the same.

“When I first climbed the north face I took two 250m ropes to make sure I could get back down if I needed to.

“Now I take a 35m rope and I know that that is sufficient for me to descend if I need to. That’s a change in me though; the mountain hasn’t changed at all.”

Steck first stepped onto a mountain at the age of 12 and has never looked back.

Along with Stephan Siegrist he opened the ‘Young Spider’ (1800m M7/Wi6; 7a/A2) route on the Eiger in 2001 and later becoming the first to climb it solo in 2006.

Well known for his extreme alpine style, meaning no fixed ropes or supplemental oxygen, Steck also has other numerous solo first ascents to his name including Cholatse North Face 6440m, Tawoche East Face 6505m and Mount Dickey, Alaska, first ascent (1700m M7+/Ai6 5.9/A1) to mention just a few.

“I prefer the alpine style of climbing. To me that is real mountaineering, it is the biggest challenge.”

A noted solo climber there are times when Steck is more than happy to climb with a partner and he and Anthamatten completed a first ascent of the 6,500m high Tengkampoche in May.

“Simon is a very strong climber and after we had climbed together in Canada I knew he was the one I wanted as my partner for Annapurna.

“We make a good team, we speak the same language and he’s pretty smart.

“He hasn’t got any 8000ms yet so he leaves all the decisions on the mountain to me. If I say we do something he doesn’t argue he accepts and so we work well together. He has to be able to trust me but I also have to be able to trust him, it works both ways.”

“We get on really well together and even when sitting around in base camp for one, two weeks at a time waiting for the right weather window, we got along fine.

“Well apart from the breakfast table! I like to lounge back and relax and Simon hates that, he thinks we should sit upright at the table. He gets very annoyed about that, but that’s the only thing!

“Relationships are very important in climbing and you need to take that with you when you climb. If you can’t get along with someone on the ground it is going to be so much worse on a wall.”

Steck will now take time out to recover from his arduous Himalayan trip and right now he has no plans for any big expeditions.

“I am not giving up on the south face of Annapurna, we will get back there one day, but there’s no rush, it’s not going anywhere. Now I rest, recover and let my body get over the last few weeks. Simon and I will definitely climb again together but I will also solo as well.

“I love the aspect of being alone on a mountain. When you are up at 6,000m and there is no way of going down you are totally alone and I feel very, very small then.

“But that gives you a total respect for the mountain. It opens up your senses, there’s no feeling like it, it is so intense. Then when you go back down into the valley it leaves. So, we keep going, we keep looking for more challenges in the mountains.

“If I didn’t climb I would find something else that I would follow with the same passion. I want to live life no matter what.”

For a man who ‘just’ climbs mountains Ueli Steck has done himself proud and with his name now in the history books of the Eiger in indelible ink, he has already more than made his mark.

Editor’s Note:  This is a Special Report from the 2008 Eiger Awards.  Jo Adams, who wrote this great piece for The Adventurist, retains all rights to this article and the photos contained.  For reprint rights, please contact Jo Adams at siula.grande.peru@gmail.com.  Jo Adams is a Freelance Sports Journalist based out of Dorset, England.  Thank-you Jo for this special report.

©2008 The Adventurist.  All Rights Reserved.  This article may not be republished or redistributed without contacting the Author or Publisher for further arrangements.

Influence, Influenced, and Influencing

I think I just posted the weirdest title in my two years of blogging. It is rather vague, but you will understand it a bit more in just a moment. I promise.

Last week I put up an editorial titled “The ‘Other’ Side of Green.” Basically it took a look at some of the more eco-friendly companies, with their intentions put in perspective. Are they as ‘Green’ or ‘Eco-friendly’ as they claim? Or is this just another strange attempt to lure dollars away from a caring public?

This ‘rant’, as it has now been called, was influenced by a single paragraph I had read over at the Splitterchoss Blog, a great blog for everything to do with rock climbing.

The Influence

Here’s the paragraph that got it all started.

So much of the outdoor industry pretends to be green while at the same time their very existence is founded upon the notion that you need to buy more new stuff. Now granted, there are times when you do need new gear, and I think that is ok. But the big joke about this whole “green” movement is that people think you can save the world by buying more stuff.

Influenced

This single paragraph got me to thinking that how outdoor gear is currently marketed to our eco-friendly, green, carbon neutral mindset, yet really persuades us to take actions that are exactly opposite from this standpoint. Every time we buy something new, we throw something away. Sure, our new gear may be eco-friendly, but our old gear will just sit in a landfill for thousands of years. It really isn’t a revolutionary thought, and I am sure others have felt the same way, but it did spark some interest.

Influencing

A couple of days after my Editorial was posted on this site, I ran across this on the Vice/Virtue climbing blog:

Last week, Jason Hendricks from The Adventurist went on a rant about the so-called “greening” of outdoor gear. And how we shouldn’t rely on manufacturer’s eco-hype alternatives - like recycled polyester base-layers and such - to do it for us. I’m sure this discussion is going on everywhere at once, but for my part, I committed to writing about environmental action you can do, not just pay for. Reducing waste and reusing equipment you already have.

This happens to be from an article entitled “Reduce, Reuse, Resole,”  hence the idea for this post’s title.

Summer, who runs the Vice/Virtues climbing blog has taken this idea a step further.  She is actually influencing her readers to take a second look at their gear and decide if they really need something new, or if that old gear can be fixed or recycled so that it becomes useful once again.  She is promising a whole series of ideas that could keep a butt-load of old gear out of the trash heap.  This first article focuses on climbing shoes.  She offers up some great tips on repairs, as well as where to obtain the materials to do-it-yourself, which saves even more cash.

The way prices are moving skyward on many of our everyday items, this idea is quite exciting and intriguing in relation to outdoors gear.  I personally can’t wait to see her next article.  I know I am looking forward to learning a thing or two about saving some of my gear, as well as my cash.

I will be posting more about Summer and her ideas in the weeks ahead, as I think this could be a huge influence on how many of us think.  She is giving us a needed alternative to how things are marketed to us and what we can do to get the most out of our current gear.  Very nice, Summer.

Skydivers Shake Death By Leaping From Crashing Plane

As a recent commenter on the Free Republic suggests, “Wow, what are the odds…”

Skydivers planning a jump in eastern Spain recently got a bit more than they were bargaining for. The plane carrying the thrill seekers lost a wing, plunged to earth, exploded and killed the pilot and one passenger. The skydivers, already prepared for their jump, decided to bail out a bit early. This move probably saved their lives.

Four of the parachutists were injured in the ordeal after bad landings, with two of them being listed as serious. One, a 23-year-old man suffered some back injuries, while another, a 52-year-old man suffered a neck injury. In total, six skydivers jumped from the crashing plane.

Almost sounds like a weird James Bond type movie scene, but this one is 100% real. To read more on this amazing story, CLICK HERE now.

Delia Salomon To Attempt English Channel Swim–At 16

For most 16 year-olds, cars and driving take top priority. Delia Salomon isn’t like most 16 year-olds.  She has a far bigger ambition. Delia Salomon is planning to swim the English Channel.  Since 1875, the English Channel has only been swam a total of 772 times. In relation to Mt. Everest, this endeavor will be close to four times more difficult,  where over 3,500 people have summited the world’s highest peak since 1953.

Delia Salomon has been training fanatically over the past year for the English Channel attempt. Her first try will take place in August. She has been busy running, swimming, and acclimatizing for the big moment, as well as gaining an extra 15 pounds that will help protect her from the frigid 50 degree waters. As for the acclimatizing, much like climbers on Mt. Everest, Delia is trying to persuade her body into accepting the frigid temperatures of the water. She does this by swimming in cooler waters, as well as the occasional ice bath.

The English Channel is notoriously known for bad weather and the harsh current. Often swimmers are taken miles off course or relent unceremoniously to the current that tugs a swimmer back two strokes for every one forward. The English Channel spans 21 miles across. One of Delia’s trainers recently mentioned to the San Francisco Chronicle that it compares to running 36 miles continuously, uphill. Delia Salomon is planning on completing this feat in 9 hours. The record is seven.

Even at sixteen-years-old, Delia will not be the youngest person to ever achieve that feat. That distinction belongs to a twelve-year-old who completed the English Channel in 1983. Since that time, the rules have changed. The Channel Swimming Association, who governs all attempts at swimming the Channel, has changed the age to 16. They have also enforced a rule that any successful attempt has to end on land. This could require a bit of climber skills to pull off, as the landfall area is surrounded by rock and cliffs.

The San Francisco Chronicle, who recently ran an article on Delia Salomom (she lives in nearby Berkeley) had a great quote from Delia on her ambitions:

“I think I can do it,” says Delia, an A student at Berkeley High who’s completing her sophomore year. “It’s a goal I set for myself. It’s good to push ourselves, to try to do things that you don’t think you can do.“

To bad all kids don’t have that same mentality.  My daughters, all they care about are boys–YUCK!

By the way, another cool thing.  Delia was inspired by reading a book–