Reflections On A Glimpse Into The Life of Apa Sherpa
Posted by Jason A. Hendricks on June 3, 2008 |
Apa Sherpa is to Mt. Everest what Michael Jordan was to basketball. He has succeeded and excelled at every level. Mt. Everest is his NBA Finals. With finesse and strength, Apa Sherpa has slowly carved a reputation that will be very hard to surpass in the world of climbing. He has successfully summited the world’s highest peak an unprecedented eighteen times. An achievement that no other climber can lay claim to.
The Salt Lake Tribune recently had an opportunity to meet up with Apa Sherpa. It is an insightful and unglamorous look at how Apa, although the epitome of climbing on Mt. Everest, struggles to live in his second home, the United States.
In 2006, Apa Sherpa moved from his native country of Nepal to Salt Lake City, Utah. The move was due, in part, to Apa wanting to help out his family who remained in Nepal. He wanted to build a foundation that would help to keep his kids from having to embark on the same path that he chose on Mt. Everest, ushering up climbers to the top of the world’s highest peak. A job, that by all accounts, could very easily rank right up there with the most dangerous jobs in the world.
Apa Sherpa, while recently being afforded the opportunity to actually climb on his own merits, struggled for many years carrying up climbing gear, tents, and oxygen for many of the world’s top expeditions on Mt. Everest. The Sherpa people are known for their stamina and abilities to carry heavy loads at high altitude, offering many of them a steady job each spring. Most make more money in a month than what they could in a single year, in Nepal.
For the past ten years, many climbers from the western world have relished in an unabashed celebrity status upon reaching the top of Mt. Everest. Many have turned their successful summit into books, speaking engagements, and a whole slew of other means to earn a successful living after achieving what many consider the epitome of mountain climbing. Apa Sherpa wanted a piece of the pie for himself. Not just himself though, but for his family.
The article in the Salt Lake Tribune paints a picture that is insightful, yet a bit disturbing for someone of Apa’s stature in the climbing community. He will no doubt go down in the journals of Everest history as one of the best climbers of all time, yet, in Salt Lake City, Apa Sherpa walks around unnoticed and struggles to survive monetarily on a day to day basis. He lives with a close friend, Jerry Mika, who gives Apa room and board, as well as a job with his own company designing outdoor equipment.
Apa Sherpa is very intent on offering his own family a better means to survival. I recently covered a few items, most notably a Poisk Oxygen canister, that were being featured on Ebay. In the listing for this item, it was made very clear that all proceeds were going to help support Apa Sherpa’s family in Nepal. Apa is pretty open about his wishes, yet, in the United States, he is finding the road to be a bit more rough than say, a Conrad Anker or Ed Viesteurs. Both of these guys have been able to turn their love of adventure into full time jobs that goes to support even more adventurous expeditions.
Why Apa Sherpa has not been elevated outside of the mountaineering community to a higher status in the world, is actually quite dumbfounding. He still struggles with gaining sponsors for his climbs, and even at that, is still looking to Ebay to make a few bucks so his family can survive. This seemingly tells a tale of the difference between eastern and western climbers and how they are perceived in the media and the public. I am not going to go as far as to make this a racially biased issue, but perceptions going out in the world would suggest that climbers can make a decent living in the United States with companies just throwing money around to potential expeditions. This is just simply not the case for most foreign climbers who come to the United States in search of the ‘motherlode’ if you will.
All of this is quite sad, but does reveal some insight into the different perceptions that companies and the media place on ‘local’ climbers, as opposed to those that were foreign born. Even with 18 successful Mt. Everest summits to his credit, Apa Sherpa is still finding life to be quite tough.
In the past couple of weeks, most people in the United States do not even realize that one of the best climbers in the world, Inãki Ochoa, died on Annapurna. When Inãki first got into trouble, there was nobody around that could help the struggling climber at high-altitude. Within two days time a call went out to all climbers in the area. In the days that ensued, some of the top climbers in the world would race to Annapurna, risk death for one of their own, and still come up shorthanded. It was an amazing effort from all fronts. Even though the rescue was not a success, it did show us the heart and soul of many of the world’s elite climbers. In the United States press, this story of heroic efforts and dubious tragedy has not even garnered a mention. It didn’t feature American climbers or American Companies, so why would the public care?
The scope of all of this is really quite hard to understand. I cover all aspects of many of these climbs, including those of Apa Sherpa in 2007 and 2008, as well as the recent struggle and death of Inaki Ochoa. Many of my viewers come from all over the world, with it being almost a 50-50 split between American readers and those from foreign countries. Perhaps the companies that throw their money to the American climbing community could find a bigger audience, a more productive business, if they would just follow along and treat the international climbing community with the same vigor and thought that they do with the American climbers. In the United States, our climbers are thought to be the strongest in the world. If people would just open their eyes, many would get a very different outlook at how these statistics are being played out by the press.
Don’t get me wrong, I feel like supporting our own climbers, especially those that rank in the upper tiers of the climbing community, should be fully supported to continue doing what they do. On a different note though, how cool would it be to see Apa Sherpa, or a Ueli Steck sporting Nike shoes on the television? They emphasis the “Just Do It” philosophy perhaps even better than a Micheal Jordon or Labron James. On top of that, the money would actually be going to those who need it. People like Apa Sherpa.
Jason, awesome post mate. I feel a combination of sadness and anger. I do realise there are massive problems going on in this world but Apa’s achievements measured by any standard are out of this world. These days, taking a fixed line up Everest, put in place by Apa’s fellow sherpas garners celebrity status. What a joke. An Everest summit is indeed a great achievement but when 77 reach it in a day, a book or speaking tour about it holds very little value.
If I were in such a position I would be honoured to have Apa as one of my full-time sponsored athletes. I hope some of these so-called “core” brands, “owned” by climbers wake up and instead of signing on the next pretty boy thinks about the values they so oft spout on about.
June 3rd, 2008 at 3:15 pm
It’s the nature of the sport. There really are very few people making a living as a climber. Conrad probably makes more as a filmmaker and author. Viesturs has become an industry upon himself, but they both could walk down the street in pretty much any town in America and not be recognized or bothered. Mountaineering and climbing are niche sports, and as much as we love and follow them, it just doesn’t hold sway with the mainstream.
No would would recognize Apa or Ueli, which is why they don’t get put on a Nike commercial, although I’m sure Ueli does okay back home in Switzerland. Hell, Neives Meroi doesn’t even have a sponsor. That tells you how niche the market is.
June 3rd, 2008 at 4:44 pm
I am not saying everyone should have a ‘Nike’ commercial..that would be kind of fun, though, but I used Nike as the epitome of commercialism. You mention Conrad Anker, Kraig, and I agree with you on where he probably makes his money. Once again though, I do feel like western climbers sit in a WAY better position to get the book tours, to get the film deals, ect. than counterparts that could do these things from other countries IF the opportunity was presented to them. For the most part, it is not. If Apa Sherpa wrote a book, would his book have the same opportunity as a Conrad Anker? Probably not. Tenzing Norgay’s son wrote a book a year or so back, it barely got noticed. Ed Viesturs writes one, it becomes a Bestseller. Much of it has to do with promotion, but there is a difference on how these things are perceived in the media.
I also agree that climbing is a “niche” sport, but it is also a sport that is gaining in acceptance with the public and has drawn quite a fan base from non-climbers.
Mark, it is always nice to hear from you and the Mountainfit team. You make a couple of good points about Everest. Do you feel like Mt. Everest is losing it’s luster? What if these expedition companies started focusing on the lesser known peaks–which some do–like a Cho Oyo, or recently Annapurna. Many people do not even recognize these names. What if the media would do the same? Do you think the sponsorships, etc. would fall off because it is not Everest? Or would they change their focus?
Much has been written about Mt. Everest. Every season climbers line up to make a go. They fork over thousands for an opportunity. I really don’t see this ending anytime soon, but if the focus could be moved to other lesser known peaks, then quite possibly focus could change a bit. Would this be profitable? Probably not. Everest garners immediate attention. Even the Ueli Stecks, the Neives Merois’ of the world, eventually they all try their hand at it. They know it makes a career. As Inaki Ochoa recently stated before his untimely death…once ski lifts and helicopters can take them to the top, probably only then will the focus switch.
June 3rd, 2008 at 10:08 pm
Not a bad idea about shifting focus from Everest. But it would take a few of the movers and shakers in the guiding industry to do it. Even then it would be tough to shift the collective thinking of the general public. The fact is the top of Everest is the highest point on the planet. That will always draw people to the mountain.
I am a little jaded I suppose. As I said I believe that reaching the summit of Everest is an awesome achievement but the accolades headed upon a successful ascent are so disproportionate to it’s value. This value is awarded by people (ie. the general public) who have no idea of the mountain beyond it’s place in wiki or google.
Now I am a big fan of Bear Grylls but he has managed to turn a bog standard, commercial ascent of the mountain into a massive media career. The list of those who have done this is long. This is only possible because all the public register with are the words Everest and highest, nothing whatsoever in between.
A real shame for those mountaineers and other adventurers who truly achieve something remarkable only to have the world’s attention elsewhere. Another great example is David Hempleman-Adams’ daughter Camilla and her “record-breaking” polar achievement. At best this was to be a guided, 80 mile, 10 day walk. As it turned out, due to polar drift they flew to the other side of the pole and used the drift to walk just a day and half to grab her record. The newspapers duly reported en masse (http://tarquincooper.com/?m=200804) Please! This is disheartening stuff for the genuine adventurer that is for sure.
I understand the causes of this situation - the public, the marketplace, media coverage. I am not so thick. I also know what motivates many climbers, mountaineers and adventurers is not the accolades or the money. But, you do need to eat, pay bills and live life.
It’s a tough situation with not much of an answer I am afraid. Until industry leaders decide to change the status quo things will not change.
June 4th, 2008 at 2:36 am
I agree with a lot of what you’re saying Mark. It’s ridiculous how the media and general public get caught up in records and doing something “first”. Some of these truly are remarkable firsts but most are just publicity stunts and over the top attempts at grabbing headlines.
Everest will always hold a sway over the general public. They think because it’s the highest, it must be the toughest to climb. Most have never heard of K2 or Annapurna, and have no idea how much more challenging they are to climb. For me, those two mountains have become the Mountaineer’s Mountains. The place where the real climbers go, while the public watches and waits for news from Everest, where anyone with $50,000 and a month and a half on their hands, can have a reasonable chance of getting up.
Of course, we’re kind of beating a dead horse here. The commercialization of Everest won’t end, because it’s not in the best interest of Nepal or Tibet for it to end. They make lots of money off the mountain, and are going to continue issuing permits and letting guide services drag people to the top because it’s big business. I say let the public have their mountain. And let those of us who truly love the adventure focus on places where real adventure is still taking place.
June 4th, 2008 at 8:24 am
Kraig, I have actually been thinking quite a bit about your last sentence, and this has been a thought for a few months now on my part. I am not going to say that I won’t be following Everest in 2009, as I will probably always have my eye on it, but I might look to change up what I do a bit for next season. Perhaps it is the monotany of it all.
Mark: I honesty don’t think the guides would change anything. Everest is their bread and butter. You definitely have two different factions when it comes to guiding Everest. You have the huge outfits like Himex or Alpine Ascents, then there are the smaller teams like Mountain Professionals and Peak Freaks. The smaller teams emphasize this aspect of their expedition with closer guide-climber interactions, but if these smaller companies would make the money, I feel that they would change their outlook and expand. It is the nature of business. I was kind of hoping that some of these expedition companies would get pissed off at China and Nepal and rethink what they are doing. By everyone falling right into line this year though, doesn’t look like it mattered.
June 4th, 2008 at 9:11 am
Look for Everest 2009 to be a record year - on both sides. I am pretty convinced that the fiasco this year will only increase business for everyone. Just look at 1996.1997 as a proxy. More people “drug to the top”.
Sigh,
Alan
June 4th, 2008 at 10:23 am
Hey Alan,
Welcome back, my friend! Finally getting out of that week-long cocoon? Hope you are feeling better, and the wife, as well.
I know teams are going to be itching to get back to work. I am already reading reports from teams for next season. You are probably right. Actually, you are usually right. Alan, you for one, know what it was like this season. Have been reading your report, thus far, with quite the interest. A lot has been mentioned about the crowds this year, but with things back to normal, and international interest in the whole situation, it would not surprise me one bit to have 1,000 climbers or more on Everest.
What are your thoughts on the commercialization of Everest? Is it getting to be to much? And will there come a point where the crowd situation just becomes to dangerous. Many of us were worried about it this year from the South, 40 minute wait times to get up certain areas can’t be a real safe scenario. Then again, we all know that Everest wasn’t made to be safe.
Glad to see you back, Alan.
June 4th, 2008 at 10:58 am
Hi Jason,
I will write extensively in the last part of Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics about the crowds and to some degree commercialization but the punch line is yes - look for much more of both.
To be clear, Everest makes money for a lot of people both local and Westerners. Maybe not so much from the actual climb for those operators charging basement prices ($30K range) but tons for those at $50K and above - actually obscene when you look at their costs.
One of the primary reasons the communication blackout was so effective was that the largest operators did not want to bite the hand that feeds them. I can’t say I blame them. Also there was a quasi-legal thing of being in a country and under their laws (and military). Then again what law do you listen to when it is on the Internet? The country of origin, where you are, where you live? Where it is hosted? But I digress.
The crowds will get worse. There were 400 to 600 climbers (including Sherpas) up there this year. Half summitted (258?) Next year will be more. The lines on the Lhotse face were amazing (pictures later). 30 minutes to get past the crux on the Yellow Band (I personally accounted for 20 minutes of that time gasping at the top :-).
But some of the large teams split into smaller groups and went up different days to address crowd control that kind of cooperation will increase as the crowds grow so while worrisome, crowds will probably be manageable.
It is the weather, inexperienced climber and the greedy operator that will be the biggest risk, imho.
Alan
June 4th, 2008 at 12:10 pm
Alan, some of us that followed this season weren’t bemused by China’s efforts to silence Everest. You guys made the right decision. With the political BS and the Tibetan crackdown, there was no telling how it would go. More than likely, it would have worked out as it did for Brant Holland-not very well.
Peak Freaks put a nifty plan together and was able to get some info out, but even they started to get some heat. In places like that, with the situation the way it was, I would have done the same as you. Sometimes silence is the best medicine. Also, we knew the ‘real’ reports wouldn’t come out till everyone was back on home soil. Made it tough at times to follow along, but with all the interest, I think we done a reasonable job throughout the ban.
I am also hearing that the ‘official’ summit total on the South came in at 247 this season. This is coming from Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism in a report through a local paper in Kathmandu–not sure about the verification, though, because as we both know-sometimes what they say isn’t the truth.
June 4th, 2008 at 12:31 pm
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