Everest 2008: Alan Arnette’s Mountain of Politics

Mt. Everest took the world’s center stage in 2008. It was a year filled with intrigue, politics, high emotion and even higher crowds. The Chinese planned, and were successful, at taking the 2008 Beijing Olympics torch to the top of the world’s highest peak, yet, before all of that took place another theme prevailed–control.

China banned climbers from the north side of Mt. Everest. Nepal was pressured to do the same on the south. Through some meetings with officials, it was decided that climbers would be allowed to climb from the south as long as they followed a few rules along the way. Communications were locked down. Climbers were forced to the lower camps until May 10th, and if you mentioned the words China, Tibet, or Free Tibet, you were in jeopardy of losing your permit, as well as being banned from climbing in the area for up to two years. It was a silent year.

Alan Arnette came to Everest with high hopes. He had climbed peaks from around the world, some of the world’s tallest, in preparation for his 2008 expedition to Mt. Everest. This would be his third voyage. This time Alan wasn’t climbing for himself. He was climbing for something new and more invigorating, Alzheimer’s, a disease that was eating away at his mother. A disease with no cure. After the 2007 Mt. Everest climbing season, Alan Arnette announced that he was heading back.

Alan’s “Road Back To Mt. Everest” started and ended with the Cure Alzheimer’s Fund. He was adament that this was his goal, summit or not. He wanted to bring awareness and funds to an organization that fights to find a cure for this devastating disease.

Much can be said for a man on a mission. On solid ground Alan exhibited a passion that many of us had never seen before. On Denali, his first training climb, Alan had a set-back. Eventually he would have to be med-evaced by helicopter off North America’s highest peak. To those of us close to Alan, we know it concerned him–yet he carried on. Aconcagua, Orizaba–he got stronger and stronger. He was ready. We were ready. It was going to be a good year.

As Alan left for Mt. Everest, I began to notice reports that the rules were changing. I can remember Alan telling me before he left to be on the watch for rumors and false reports. Alan usually reports on Mt. Everest, himself. He has done this over the past few years . He knows how these things go. We both strive for the most accurate of standards, but with Everest (and egos) it becomes a hard shell to crack.

Once word was received that Alan was in Nepal, I was elated. I felt that for one of very few times, someone who understands reporting was actually going to be in the mix. Reports would take on a new meaning.

Then it came. I clicked over to Alan’s site and seen a post that stated “Dispatches Will Resume in Mid-May”. A confirmation, but a sad fact for those of us who report on Mt. Everest. The communication ban was in effect.

From this point on, I had no communication with Alan.

For the past two weeks, Alan Arnette has been taking some time to recuperate, as well as put his expedition in perspective. His story is quite amazing. It covers everything from first arrival to base camp, to run-ins with the Chinese military, to Brant Holland’s spectacle of getting caught with a “Free Tibet” flag, to Summit Night.

This story is huge. It runs upwards of 70 pages in length–but it is a story that needed to be told in it’s entirety. Alan, while being away, was smart enough to know that if he hung somewhat low, perceived what was truly going on-that he could carry on with his climb and eventually make it back home to share his side. This is Alan’s side:

Mountain of Politics: Part I Rumors of Demise

Mountain of Politics: Part II Volunteer Prisoners At Base Camp

Mountain of Politics: Part III Sniper at Camp III

Mountain of Politics: Part IV Summit Night