Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Over
December 29, 2008
Jacek Teler’s team on Nanga Parbat has called it quits. The team successfully made it to Camp I, but from there it was going to be a very rough climb. They decided to throw the towel in early and not take the added chance of people getting killed. Here is the report from ExplorersWeb:
Excess of snow and logistic difficulties have been too much for Jacek Teler’s team on winter Nanga Parbat. “The game is over,” Teler wrote earlier today. “Winter Nanga Parbat looks like a very steep ice-cream,” Teler reckoned. “Menacing seracs hanging from the Mazeno ridge would turn any attempt into a Russian-roulete game.”
“Tomorrow we will retrieve C1 and return to BC.” Jacek stated.
In addition to the difficult conditions on the route, the climbers had to endure bitter cold and loads of snow without part of their gear and supplies – the LO officer (carrying a goat for fresh meat) had been blocked by fresh snow on the way to BC.
I can’t say that I blame them much on the retreat. Nanga Parbat is one of the tougher peaks to summit in the world, add in the factor that it is winter and the weather hasn’t been great and you have a tough mix. It is nice to see them playing it safe and not shooting for the top.
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Jason what do you think about the recent report about Chad Kellogg? Here is what I was forward’d.
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Appears to be another instance of proven dishonesty of well known well liked climber Chad Kellogg.
In the ExplorersWeb article done on Chad the following quote–
http://web.archive.org/web/20050310143924/www.mounteverest.net/story/ChadKelloggbreaksMountRainierspeedrecordAug132004.shtml
“Chad started out at 6 AM from the Paradise parking lot ( 5400 feet)
and shot off to the summit at 14411 feet. “I made it to the summit in
the exact same time as last time, 3:33 hrs.”"
“Last time” refers to his 1st Rainier speed climb, 1998.
So Chad says he did 3:33 to the summit in 1998, and 3:33 to the
summit in 2004.
His 2004 report of 3:33
http://web.archive.org/web/20060210172155/chadkellogg.com/rainier.html
His 1998 website report about his “last time” [his 1998 Rainier speed
climb]
http://web.archive.org/web/20040205073553/www.chadkellogg.com/rainier.html
He lists his 1998 time to the summit as “3:24″.
Dishonest record claimers often get caught lying when speaking to the
press, similar to criminals who can’t keep their stories straight
when speaking to the Police.
Chad was previously proven to have lied about his 1998 Rainier time
with his own summit register inscription where he listed “4:20″ for
his time to the summit (4hrs20mins), then he climbed back down and
told the major Washington press he did 3:24 to the summit. This link
has photo copies of the summit register and other links.. Also is he
apparently bogus “summit photos” for Khan Tengri that show no
background, no summit, no landforms, he took the two and only two
pictures as proof of his summit.
Hoax Artist Chad Kellogg
http://www.extremeforum.net/hoax-artist-chad-kellog-6016416.html
This information has been circulating quite rampantly across a few sites that I visit. I am currently not supporting, nor discrediting Mr. Kellogg’s attempts. I understand that the Mt. Rainier speed climbing record is highly controversial and has been hotly contested over the last few months. It is my stance to report what is being reported. Without proof of the record, summit photos, etc. it is a very tough call. I know that Mr. Kellogg is a very strong climber. Could he have done it? Sure. He may not have, though. Who knows, really, other than Chad? Since I first began posting the Rainier speed ascents information, two sides clearly exist…those for and those against. It is a never-ending battle of comments. Rather than pick a fight or take sides, I have decided to pass on this issue and let everyone else make the judgements. I just report what I am presented and what has been published as fact in the press. If it changes, or someone clearly breaks the record with undeniable proof, then I may follow up this article with more details, but until that time comes I am letting it rest. I am following along, am still archiving information, but currently this discussion leads to nowhere new. Any mention of Chad Kellogg, or any of the others who have recently attempted the same record, usually leads to a rush of comments disputing their attempts. My only advice is that if you dispute it, try it yourself. If you can give me undeniable proof of your success, I would be happy to add your name in front of Chad’s.