Ueli Steck Scales New Heights With 2008 Eiger Award

By Jo Adams

OF all the mountains, in all the ranges across the world, few have provoked the myriad of feelings that the north face of the Eiger has.

All at once, terrifying, magnificent and inspirational, the Eigernordwand is as steeply enriched with history as it is with limestone and it is this history that has time and again lent mountaineers to show tenacity, courage and unlimited self-confidence every time they step foot on it.

In doing so, prepared as they are to take that extra step, they motivate us and encourage us, forcing us by their own deeds to take a more introspective look on life than we ever normally would.

Whether or not the mountaineers themselves acknowledge this would vary from one to another as generally speaking they are a modest and reticent band when it comes to talking about their achievements in life, preferring instead to let the mountains tell their story.

When the Eiger Award for 2008 was announced in Grindelwald at the end of May it was no different a scenario as the recipient, Ueli Steck, looked as if sprinting up the north face of the Eiger was a doddle in comparison to standing on a podium in front of his peers.

Swiss born Steck (31) has been appropriately recognized not only for a solo ascent of the north face of the Eiger (which saw him register an incredible speed record for the notoriously difficult vertical face), but for his mountaineering in general, his personality and of course his courageous attempt to rescue stricken Spanish climber Iñaki Ochoa on Annapurna just 10 days before.

Modest in the extreme,  Steck described his climb to Ochoa (along with fellow Swiss alpinist Simon Anthamatten) as ‘just something you do’.

“If you were walking down the street and you saw someone who needed help you would give it to them.”

Hardly an apt comparison for the two climbers who not only immediately headed up the storm ravaged Annapurna face to 7,400m, but did so ill-equipped, as they had already stored their gear for their own attempt while waiting for the weather to show some signs of kindness.

“We couldn’t climb up and get all our gear, come back down and then go again, it would have been impossible. So we climbed in regular boots, ones you would use for a summer climb in the Alps.” Steck said.

“We left base camp and got as far as 6,900m but when we got there because we didn’t have the right climbing boots on Simon had to stay put. I was only able to go on because the Russian climber Alexi Bolotov came down from the summit and he swapped boots with me. Luckily they were a size 45, if they had of been 42 it would have been Simon who went on alone.”

Were any thoughts given to the dangerous circumstances?

“We took every care up there. It was no more or no less dangerous than at any other time. We went high and we went fast but we still took every possible care.”

Prior to the rescue attempt, which threw Steck’s name into the worldwide media, he was starting to gain a somewhat unfair reputation as a ‘mad’ climber for his speed records and his solo ascents.

“There were some people who were saying I was mad, crazy, for setting speed records and doing so many solo ascents but it’s really good to know that there are some people out there who understand what Alpinism is all about.

“To win the Eiger Award is great, but like reaching a summit for the first time, it hasn’t really sunk in yet.”

The Eigernordwand solo speed record was previously held by Christoph Hainz when in 2003 he climbed it in 04:30.00, but then Steck came along in 2007 and registered 03:45.00.

Not content with that he returned in February 2008 and proceeded to shake the life out of his own time by registering a mind blowing 2:47:33.

“It’s a very special mountain to me, I’ve climbed it so many times and while I would never lose respect for the mountain, to me it is my playground.” said Steck.

“The Heckmair route is no less difficult now than it was in 1938 (first ascent).

“What has changed is the equipment we use and the skills of the individual mountaineers, the dangers are still the same.

“When I first climbed the north face I took two 250m ropes to make sure I could get back down if I needed to.

“Now I take a 35m rope and I know that that is sufficient for me to descend if I need to. That’s a change in me though; the mountain hasn’t changed at all.”

Steck first stepped onto a mountain at the age of 12 and has never looked back.

Along with Stephan Siegrist he opened the ‘Young Spider’ (1800m M7/Wi6; 7a/A2) route on the Eiger in 2001 and later becoming the first to climb it solo in 2006.

Well known for his extreme alpine style, meaning no fixed ropes or supplemental oxygen, Steck also has other numerous solo first ascents to his name including Cholatse North Face 6440m, Tawoche East Face 6505m and Mount Dickey, Alaska, first ascent (1700m M7+/Ai6 5.9/A1) to mention just a few.

“I prefer the alpine style of climbing. To me that is real mountaineering, it is the biggest challenge.”

A noted solo climber there are times when Steck is more than happy to climb with a partner and he and Anthamatten completed a first ascent of the 6,500m high Tengkampoche in May.

“Simon is a very strong climber and after we had climbed together in Canada I knew he was the one I wanted as my partner for Annapurna.

“We make a good team, we speak the same language and he’s pretty smart.

“He hasn’t got any 8000ms yet so he leaves all the decisions on the mountain to me. If I say we do something he doesn’t argue he accepts and so we work well together. He has to be able to trust me but I also have to be able to trust him, it works both ways.”

“We get on really well together and even when sitting around in base camp for one, two weeks at a time waiting for the right weather window, we got along fine.

“Well apart from the breakfast table! I like to lounge back and relax and Simon hates that, he thinks we should sit upright at the table. He gets very annoyed about that, but that’s the only thing!

“Relationships are very important in climbing and you need to take that with you when you climb. If you can’t get along with someone on the ground it is going to be so much worse on a wall.”

Steck will now take time out to recover from his arduous Himalayan trip and right now he has no plans for any big expeditions.

“I am not giving up on the south face of Annapurna, we will get back there one day, but there’s no rush, it’s not going anywhere. Now I rest, recover and let my body get over the last few weeks. Simon and I will definitely climb again together but I will also solo as well.

“I love the aspect of being alone on a mountain. When you are up at 6,000m and there is no way of going down you are totally alone and I feel very, very small then.

“But that gives you a total respect for the mountain. It opens up your senses, there’s no feeling like it, it is so intense. Then when you go back down into the valley it leaves. So, we keep going, we keep looking for more challenges in the mountains.

“If I didn’t climb I would find something else that I would follow with the same passion. I want to live life no matter what.”

For a man who ‘just’ climbs mountains Ueli Steck has done himself proud and with his name now in the history books of the Eiger in indelible ink, he has already more than made his mark.

Editor’s Note:  This is a Special Report from the 2008 Eiger Awards.  Jo Adams, who wrote this great piece for The Adventurist, retains all rights to this article and the photos contained.  For reprint rights, please contact Jo Adams at siula.grande.peru@gmail.com.  Jo Adams is a Freelance Sports Journalist based out of Dorset, England.  Thank-you Jo for this special report.

©2008 The Adventurist.  All Rights Reserved.  This article may not be republished or redistributed without contacting the Author or Publisher for further arrangements.

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

David Sharp HAD to Die on Everest

People die on Mt. Everest.  That is a fact.  In fact until the last few years the statistic was that for every four people to make the summit, one would die.  In recent times (the 2007 Everest climbing season involves close to 1,000 individuals) that number has grown to one in twenty.

Last season brought the tragic death of David Sharp and the controversy of climbers not helping a fellow climber in need to the forefront of media institutions around the world.  Perhaps this is because people never  really knew what went on at 28,000 ft. or they never really thought about it until the media picked up the story.

I am not going to go in to detail on what happened to David Sharp.  By now the world over knows this story and  a year later it still lingers in the minds and bemoans an outpouring of controversy.  Everyone has an opinion.  I will leave it at that.

What I would like to mention is that David Sharp has not been the only climber to be left behind.  It has happened before and more than likely it will happen again.  Read more

Tragedy x 3: Alpine Climbing Greats Andi Orgler and Kasper Ochsner Dead as Well…

Today has been a day of tragedy in the climbing World.  As mentioned in a previous post (found just below this one) Lara Kellogg has reportedly died on Mt. Wake and now more tragedy coming in from the world of Alpine Climbing as being reported from The Alpinist.

Andi Orgler, from Austria, has apparently been killed in a hang-gliding accident in a competition in Australia after his equipment Malfunctioned.

Andi Orgler was famous in the world of Alpine Climbing for putting up many first ascents, as well as many first ski descents.  His popularity grew throughout the climbing world during the 1980’s and 90’s as he converged on an amazing series of ascents in The Ruth Gorge in Alaska with differing partners.  For his amazing climbs in The Ruth Gorge, Orgler was awarded  the Piolet de’Or in 1995.

It is also being noted that another famed Alpinist, Kasper Ochsner has dissappeared while attempting a solo, winter climb of the Engelhorner.  Ochsner was a Swiss Mountain Guide, Ski Instructor, as well as part owner of a well known Swiss climbing shop.

Oschner was well known in Switzerland as a pioneer in Alpine Rock Climbing, having put up many of the toughest routes in Switzerland.   Oschner also put up a new route on The Eiger as well.

One Day, Three Tragic Deaths.  Kellogg, Orgler, and Ochsner will be dearly missed, but fondly remembered for their individual contributions to the world of mountain climbing.

As always with a death in the climbing community, The Adventurist will go to “black” mode as a symbol of mourning and respect for our fallen brothers and sister.

Our thoughts and Prayers are with the climbers’ family and friends as they try to cope with today’ tragedies.  They will be missed dearly.

Sir Edmund Hillary: Your Thoughts, Your Prayers

It is being widely reported today that Sir Edmund Hillary has been injured in a fall.  Sir Hillary was the first person, along with his climbing sherpa Tenzing Norgay, to summit Mt. Everest.  It has been noted that Hillary is not suffering “Life-Threatening” injuries and that his progress is going well.

Hillary is 87 years old and has recently taken up walking with a cane.  It is also being reported that Sir Edmund Hillary has been suffering from High Altitude Sickness for a number of years now.

In due respect for what Sir Edmund Hillary has come to mean and represent in the climbing community, I thought that it would be a good time for all of my loyal readers here at The Adventurist to wish Sir Edmund Hillary the best.  Today we keep you in all of our thoughts and prayers! 

You, the reader, may post your thoughts, prayers, and good wishes upon Sir Edmund Hillary here, as we all come together to wish him a fast recovery

The Complete Coverage! Everest 2007!

The Complete Coverage!  Everest 2007!  Click here!

As many of you might know, a couple of months back I mentioned that I would be setting up a Page on The Adventurist for the Everest 2007 Climbing season.

This page will be similar to the page covering the Mt. Hood Tragedy I covered in 2006 offering up all the links and stories as we publish them in one easily located space.

What this does is it allows all of my loyal readers an easier way to follow along with the Everest 2007 season as it happens, as well as lets you keep track of what HAS happened up to the latest story.  At the top of this site, you will now see a headline that reads “The Complete Coverage!  Everest 2007!  Click Here!”, by clicking this, you will now have access to every story concerning the 2007 Everest Climbing season.

I hope you enjoy this convenient way of staying on track with the happenings on Everest this season.  It is really shaping up to be a great season with many stories breaking daily.  You will now find them all here!

Park Young-Seok Seeking New Route up Everest’s Dangerous SW Face

ExplorersWeb is reporting some breaking news that Korean climber Park Young-Seok will be attempting to break a new route up Mt. Everest’s SW Face. 

Just two weeks ago, Young-Seok was evacuated in an attempt to cross the Bering Straight–but now he already has his eyes set on Everest.

The Dangerous SW Face has only been summitted a total of 15 times, with four others tragically dying in their attempt. 

Park will be leading a six-member team up the SW Face in commemoration of the 30th Anniversary of Korea’s first Everest summit.

Park is a world famous climber–having completed the first true Adventure Grandslam–he has summited all 14 -8,000 meter peaks…has traversed to both the North and South Poles, as well as completing the 7 Summits challenge.

This will be Park’s second ascent of Everest.

The Adventurist: The Top 15 Stories of the First Quarter–2007

2007 is shaping up to be a great year in the world of adventure–The Everest Season is around the corner and Michael Fournier will be skydiving from outerspace!  Yep, you read that right.

Let’s take a look back at the Top 10 Stories featured here during the first quarter of 2007.

1. Mt. Everest 2007:  What Does a Climb Cost?
2. Grizzly Man Timothy Treadwell:  Adventurist or Idiot?
3. The Adventurist:  The David Tait Interview
4. I am 17, Going to Climb Mt. Everest Next Year….
5. Everest Back-to-Back:  The David Tait Double-Traverse Expedition 2007
6. Who Should Pay for Search and Rescue?  The Controversy Ends…
7. A Guide for the Extreme Sports Enthusiast:  What are some of these?
8. OuterSpace Extreme: Michael Fournier and the 130,000 Foot Skydive
9. River Swimming The Amazon
10. The Laneo Phenom
11. To Hell and Back:  Life and Death on Mt. Everest
12. The Mt. Everest Chronicles:  Who was Sir George Everest?
13. Ueli Steck Annihilates Eiger Speed Record
14. Super Sherpas!  The Quest for Everest
15. The Khumbu Icefall

And there you have it.  I hope you enjoy taking a look back at some of the excitement that has been happening around here thus far in 2007 and will keep coming back for all of your adventure needs.

Got an Adventure to Tell? Tell Your Story Here!

Once in awhile I like to open up a post to let you, my readers, have a voice….I want to know YOUR Personal Adventure Story.  This is your chance to let the world know how cool you are and at the same time, maybe it will influence others to go out there and live that Adventure they have been dreaming about!

You may post ANY adventure, not just climbing…I am looking for hiking, kayaking, extreme sports, hunting, fishing,…anything outdoors that you had a great time doing and discovering… Read more

I am 17, going to climb Mount Everest next year…..

An Adventurist Editorial

 

I recently noticed some “hits’ coming to this site from the forum over at Let’s Run, so naturally I wanted to see what the buzz was about.  Here is what I stumbled upon…

I am 17, going to climb Mount Everest next year…..

So I am basically asking you guys should I do this with or without help? I know that I will not be the youngest to ever scale it but I do know that some joker intends to climb the thing wearing just a shirt, so I think I have a chance.

I was originally going to run a Marathon at the end of the year but I can already run as far as I want and I don’t feel it would be a gruelling challenge so I am posting here to see whether you guys think this is a good idea?

Someone please smack me and tell me that this is not SERIOUS!

The debate has been raging recently recently, with a very good commentary found on this very issue over at my friend Alan Arnette’s great site, about Everest becoming sort of a “joke” in the climbing World.

The climber that this kid mentions, is none other than the Dutchman Wim Hoff.  An experienced climber–even with his publicity antics.

The problem with this whole issue is this:  Wim Hoff has publicly announced that he plans to climb Everest in Shorts this year…the media has picked this up and spun the story for publicity, without including that Wim is an EXPERIENCED climber. 

The sad part about this media frenzy taking place without all of the facts is this:  Now there are going to be countless people thinking that Everest is a walk in the park–1 in 8 people on Everest DIE–that is a fact.

So now people think because one guy SAYS he is going to climb in shorts, that this majestic mountain must not be that bad or big of a deal…Wim hasn’t even began..no one knows if he will make it or not..or even how much of the climb he is going to do in shorts, but one thing is for certain…he is leading many people to think that Everest is a cakewalk–

I am 17, going to climb Mount Everest next year…….

Years and years of training go in to an Everest Expedition…

Scott Fischer……..Rob Hall…….

These men had a vast amount of training, had all the knowledge in the world…were two of the top climbers EVER..yet even with all of their experience and training, Everest took their lives.

I am really hoping that this is a joke–but it has brought home a very big issue in the world of climbing..

How many antics…how much bad publicity for these idiotic stunts will it take before people start flocking to Everest on a wim of it being easy…only to become another frozen body entombed on Everest….

Do your training, Do your research–and Learn the Respect that has come with the price of Death on the mountain…and even then, if the stars line up right…you might not make it out alive.

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