Cracking the Sherpa Gene Code: Apa and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa Involved in New Study

Apa Sherpa, the man who has climbed Mt. Everest more than any other human being–17 times–and former Record Holder for the fatest climb up Everest, Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, are currently taking part in a new study at the University of Utah.

Over the years the Sherpa people have become legendary for their abilty to climb high altitudes and carry heavy loads in the Himalayas.  Even today, the Sherpas are relied upon heavily to move camps and supplies up and down Mt. Everest, as well as many other peaks in the Himalayan region.  They can withstand loads up to their own body weight and climb with ease to 29,000 ft.  Now researchers are trying to figure out how and why their abilities are so much more advanced than other climbers.

Apa and Lhakpa Gelu, who have been residing in the United States for a couple of years, are leanding a hand in this research project. 

The study would soon reveal a lot of details about the unique high mountain climbing capabilities of the Sherpas,” Ang Tshering Sherpa, president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) said.

Initial research efforts, taken during this past spring’s SuperSherpa Expedition, have shown that the Sherpa Genes may have just evolved after nearly 5,000 years in the high altitude–

This is definately a cool study.  With Apa and Lhakpa Gelu, two of the world’s most famous mountain climbers, on board–it should be a great chance to try to figure out just how they do what they do.  Who knows, we might just learn something new about these amazing people!

Conrad Anker and Apa Sherpa Joining Forces?

Conrad Anker, the man who became world famous for discovering George Mallory’s body on Mt. Everest, will be teaming up with his wife and Apa Sherpa to host a special “An Everest Evening.”  This event, scheduled for August 9th will take place in Snowbird, Utah.

Apa Sherpa, who holds the record for climbing Mt. Everest the most times, 17, will be discussing his recent success with the SuperSherpas Expedition this year.  Conrad Anker will also be talking about his own success on Everest this year as a part of his reenactment of the 1924 Everest Expedition of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine.

The two have decided to come together to support The Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation (ALCF).  The ALCF is holding the fundraiser to bring attention to the high-altitude workers of Nepal as well as raising money for the Khumbu Climbing School.

Presentations and slide shows of both previously mentioned expeditions will be taking place, as well as a few more surpise speakers.  The ALCF will also be holding a charitable silent auction.  Up for bids will be a donated Grivel wood ice ax signed by all Everest summiters in attendence.

This event will take place at the Cliff Lodge in Snowbird, Utah on August 9th, with things kicking off around 6:30 pm.  Tickets for this event will be $50 a piece.  For information, reservations, or tickets, you may call (800) 933-2147.

This looks to be a great event with alot of big names in Everest history taking part–and besides that, it is for a great cause.  If you are going to be in the Utah area the week of the 9th, why not take a sidetrip to Snowbird?

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

Everest 2007 Update: Summits, Summits, and More Summits

Yesterday I posted an Interview with David Tait as well as Alan Arnette’s BIG Announcement–both of these items were pretty big news.  I didn’t post my usual update yesterday with all the previously mentioned stuff going on…so guess what.  That means this is going to be one HUGE update covering the events that has been going on for the last couple of days.

Before I get in to that though, I would first like to post a fair warning for anyone coming by this site from the Television Without Pity forum.  There will be at least one Everest: Beyond the Limit spoiler here today.  So if you don’t want to know what has happened–either skip this post, or come back tomorrow.  I do appreciate all of you stopping by though.

Alright, Let’s get to it:

David Hahn Summits for a Record 9th Time

David Hahn, climbing with IMG, has successfully summited Mt. Everest for his record 9th time.  This puts David as the single most productive Everest Summiter ever that is a non-sherpa climber.  Don’t fear though, I am pretty sure that Apa Sherpa’s current record of 17 will be holding for quite a few more years to come.

Here is a post that Dave made to his expedition website GreatOutdoors:

Hey Great Outdoors, hey this is Dave and I’m on the summit of Mount Everest, it’s let’s see, see if I can see my watch here, it’s 6:40 now we got here 15 minutes ago. Beautiful morning. Beautiful morning. We beat the crowd, and it gave us some trouble, aggravating coming up in the dark at sunrise up the step part of the South Summit, but everybody rested on the South Summit and me and Phinjo Dorge from . . . right there and we got the jump and then had the traverse and Hillary Steps to ourselves, splendid morning, beautiful shadows, casting big shadow of Everest out to the horizon. Just beautiful, really very thrilling, and uh going to give you another call in a minute here, oh boy, it’s exciting to be here. Think I can see as far as I ever have been able to, Makalu, Kangchenchugka, Shishapangma, maybe that’s Manaslu back there, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, beautiful. Beautiful. Okay call you back in a few minutes when my fingers thaw out again.

Sounds like a great view from the top of the World’s Highest Peak, Mt. Everest.

Gavin Bate’s Near Death Experience…Summit Denied

Gavin Bate, who was trying to pull off his own successful traverse of Everest, going North to South, had to call off his climb after nearly dying at 8300 meters.

To begin to put this into perspective, David was planning on traversing Everest with his “shadow” Sherpa Pasang Tendi, using the bare minimum of essentials–a light-weight single-skin tent, a small stove and bivi sack, and whatever else he could manage to get into his backpack.  Now let’s go to the details of what transpired as he attempted to reach the summit.  First, from May 19: Read more

Everest 2007 Update: SuperSherpas Summit, Apa Gains 17th Summit–Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa his 13th–Tashi Tenzing Summits For Last Time..more

SuperSherpas have announced that Apa and Lhakpa Gelu have both made their summit bids tonight–and were a success.  It is noted that one member of their team, Dawa Sherpa, was forced to lower ground and did not summit.

The SuperSherpas Expedition after leaving early this morning finally made the summit at around 8:30 pm.

Towards the end of their journey, they ended up teaming up with the Mountain Madness Team in an effort to make a safer final push.

This is great news and Sherpas the World over are looking upon them today as heroes, as well as quite a few others around the world..Great Job guys! 

Only wish Roger was there to enjoy the excitement.

Mountain Madness Summits

Mountain Madness on the South Side became the first team to summit tonight and the first from the South this whole season–they were followed up very closely by the SuperSherpas Expedition.  They all worked together to achieve their ultimate goal , which I think speaks alot for Mountain Madness as well as SuperSherpas.

Adventure Peaks on the North

As mentioned not to long ago here, Three climbers have also made the summit from the North Ridge Route tonight as well.  The Three climbers have been confirmed as being with Adventure Peaks at this time.

Tashi Tenzing Summits

Also on the North, it is being reported that Tashi Tenzing, the grandson of Norgay Tenzing–the first summiter of Mt. Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary, has also summited.

This is to be Tashi’s last summit as he is planning on retirement at this time.  Great Job Tashi–Now get down safe!

His Client and climbing partner, Klara Polackova, was also able to summit with Tashi Tenzing..

Great Job and a very Historical night on Everest with Tashi Tenzing making his last summit as well as Apa making his World Record 17th and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa his 13th. The Sherpa community will be celebrating tonight as they deserve all the credit in the world.  Without the Sherpas on Everest no one would be on Everest..Great Job all around guys!

TONIGHT WILL BE BUSY!

Many teams are heading up at this time or are almost to the summit.  Yesterday seen a confirmed 49 summits and today will be just as busy or busier.  Alan Arnette is reporting that the weather is clear–winds are at 30-40 knots, and conditions are pretty close to perfect near the summit.  So please stay tuned for the latest..

Everest 2007 Update: Three Summits From North and First South Summits?

Three Summits from the North have been confirmed at this time.  The three people involved are Carey Gibson, Dan Tebay, and Lhadpa Sherpa.

Also from the South, EverestNews is reporting a pretty reliable source as saying Mountain Madness has reached the Summit by way of the South Col Route and Supersherpas aren’t far behind.

Apa and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa are trying to accomplish a combined 30th Everest summit between them with Apa going for his 17th to break his own record of most Everest Summits ever.

Please remember that at this time this report from the South is still yet to be confirmed but sources are pointing to a successful summit from both Mountain Madness and Supersherpas shortly.

At this time it is not known whether the Philipine Ladies Team has made it yet or not as well..they had left earlier today for their push..but no further information has been noted.

Everest 2007 Update: Weather Good or Bad on South Side?

I am hearing mixed reports of the weather on Mt. Everest tonight.  If you have stopped by earlier, than obviously you are aware of the current push to the summit taking place on both the North and South sides–

Right around 50 people summited this morning on the North and more teams on both the North and South Sides are currently heading up..

Bill Burke with SummitClimb is reporting the following:

“The weather has not been cooperating so most of the teams are still at Everest Base Camp. It snowed really hard this afternoon and it is snowing as I send in this report. Our current plan is to start up the mountain on May 18 for our final push to the summit. I understand that there are four teams currently on the South Col and they may make their run for the summit tonight. We are all wishing them well.”

Also, Alan Arnette is reporting that Apa and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, with the SuperSherpa Expedition is also reporting some high winds–upwards of 40 knots towards the summit.

I am sure everyone is watching the weather situation very carefully, as quite a few teams now have members heading up.  I am hoping that the weather holds out and this second group of summiters will make as well as the first group did.

So far no major incidents have occured–maybe we can actually have a “safe” year this time around–pending any weather problems.  Keeping the fingers crossed.

Everest 2007 Update: Mass Exodus For Summit, as Day 2 Summit Push Begins

Day two is shaping up to be busier than today as far as Everest and the push for the summit go.

From the North Side, there will possibly be another 50-60 people attempting the climb up the North Ridge Route, and from the South, many are expecting the same.

Here are the teams to look for:

From the North

The female team of Philipines are sitting at 8300 meters now and are planning their final push tonight.  Also on the North, Cato Pederson, will be planning his “Unarmed” Everest Push has he tries to make a successfull summit attempt after losing both of his arms many years ago.  Other teams:

Manny Pizzaro, SummitClimb (second phase), Scottish Scouts, Nives Meroi and Romana Benet, as well as Kari Kobler to name a few…

From the South Col

Supersherpas, who will be ascending around 9 pm tonight, IMG, Adventure Consultants, Exploradus…all of them are in the works to make an attempt, if not tonight, then definately by morning.

The Weather

As mentioned earlier today, many expeditions and climbers are predicting a small 48 hour window here before bad weather sets back in.  Many teams are trying a scramble for the top, while others are trying to use their “sixth sense” and hope for a better opportunity and hopefully less crowds as well..

It is noted that after David Tait successfully crossed from the North Ridge to The South Col and eventually down to Camp 2–that the teams on the South have been busy, busy.  David was able to break trail and fix the rest of the ropes that the South needed in order to finish their push to the summit.   The South now has plenty of trail to follow and ropes leading their way..

Great job David on making this all possible and jumpstarting the South Summit Push as well..

As Always I will bring you the latest as I hear it.

Everest 2007 Second Update, May 15, 2007: 50 Summits Reported Today..David Tait Update…and more

David Tait Update

David Tait has made it to lower ground on the South Side, arriving at Camp 2, along with his Sherpa Phurba Tashi, after successfully reaching the summit of Mt. Everest around 1:30 am this morning.

Adventure Consultants, The team that will run David’s logistics on the South, are reporting that David and Phurba Tashi Sherpa are both very excited to have the first leg of the Double-Traverse finished and are now enjoying some time in the Dining tent celebrating.  Here is what the Adventure Consultants Team had to say:

“All members of the AC Team wish to offer massive congratulations to English climber David Tait and Phurba Tashi Sherpa who successfully traversed Mt Everest today from North to South. This is a huge and rarely accomplished feat. David and Phurba Tashi are members of the Himalayan Experience Expedition (HIMEX) on the North Side of Everest. Adventure Consultants are providing logistical support on the South Side. As David and Phurba Tashi sit in our heated C2 dining tent, they are elated and understandably, exhausted. Tomorrow they will have their first experience of the Khumbu Icefall as they descend to BC.”

50 Summits Reported Today

ExplorersWeb is reporting 50 summits thus far today from the North Side alone.  We all knew it would come fast and furious when it hit–and it definately has…

At this time, I can not confirm all 50 but that is definately not saying it hasn’t happened.  I am just waiting to recieve confirmation.

The South Side

Climbers on the South Side are gearing up for their first projected summit attempts tonight..SuperSherpas will be leading the way with Apa and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa set to arrive at the Summit around 7 pm–this will be their combined 30th summit of Everest!

The Weather Window

Earlier today, I had the opportunity to ask Alan Arnette how big of a weather window the climbers had before the forthcoming bad weather comes in that we have all been hearing about…

From his own site, here is what he had to say:

“Looks like the winds will be tolerable for the next 24 hours at least so expect a big push on both sides. What worries me is that they are forecasted to increase again on the 18th (48 hours from right now - 7:00AM GMT -7 or MDT) and a lot of teams are still low on the mountain. If they push to catch the tail end of this window, they could get caught. But they are there and I am in Colorado so they know best!”

Let’s just all hope that everyone can be safe and make it through this window in one piece, and at least be at a safe place when the weather does decide to come back.

Everest 2007 Update: DAVID TAIT SUMMITS, SummitClimb Summits 6..and more heading up!

David Tait Makes First of Two Summits!! 

At 1:30 am this morning I recieved a new dispatch from David Tait.

“To all you happy followers out there – David reached the summit at about 1.30 am this morning!! Through the fierce noise of the wind, he sounded jubilant as you could imagine. Fingers crossed as he makes his way back down the south please.

I’ll keep you posted. “

This is great news as David has been contemplating an earlier attempt at the summit than most. 

David is currently heading down the South Col Route where he plans to take a rest at BC and then head back up the South in an attempt to double-traverse Everest and earn his spot in the Mt. Everest Record Book.

I have not recieved word yet that David has made it back to camp but I did send him a congratulatory email and wished him the best.

SummitClimb Summits 6-

Six members of the SummitClimb team have also made the summit of Everest according to a new dispatch on their site…

The summiters included four climbers and two sherpas.  They are as follows:  Pemba Sherpa, Jangbu Sherpa, Stein Tant, Aldas Baltutis, Bjorn Vandewege, and Stephen Maginelle.

The Push is ON!!

It is also being reported that two others have now summited as well…no word yet as to who they are but details will be coming shortly…

UPDATE:  One of the two summiters is Ken Noguchi, leader of an environmental group that has been working to clean-up Everest the past couple of months…

AT LEAST 7 More Heading for the Summit…

It is also being noted that 7 others are currently heading to the summit on the North Side as well today..and I am sure many others will be following since the news of the successes happening from the North will be hitting camp fast and furious.

UPDATE:  The other 7 climbers mentioned to be heading to the summit is the other half of the SummitClimb Team.  They have decided to go up in two seperate parties.

APA and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa from SuperSherpas On Summit drive from South Side!

Apa and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, after counseling with Tashi Tenzing (Grandson of Norgay Tenzing, first summiter of Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary) from the North Side, decided to begin an earlier push for the summit after the great summit weather on the North was being reported.  We are looking to hear from the Supersherpas Camp at 10 am this morning for more details on this summit push…Right now their plan to summit looks to be around 7 pm if all stays well and conditions don’t change.

If Apa and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa are succesfull this will mark the first summits from the South this season as well as the 17th summit for Apa and the 13th for Lhakpa Gelu.  A total of 30 summits between them both.  Simply Amazing!

The Weather Debate

All of this activity is great news coming from Mt. Everest today as teams have been constantly worried about the poor weather conditions over the past two weeks.  This is bound to set off a flurry of further activity if conditions stay consistent.

Tashi Tenzing

With Tashi Tenzing consulting with the SuperSherpas Team about the good North Side weather, don’t be surprised if he makes his attempt as well today.  The Sherpas have an advantage over other climbers and don’t have to rely on resting at each camp as their bodies are more adjusted to the acclimatization..if he decides to go for it, it will be a fast push..

The Adventurist

I will try to keep everyone up to date as I can.  The news may come fast and furious though so please check back often for the latest updates.

CONGRATULATIONS

I would like to congratulate all of the climbers in their success today as well as wish everyone a safe and happy return!  Great Job Guys!

Special Word of Note:  Thank-you Alan Arnette, ExplorersWeb and EverestNews for your great reports!

 

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