K2 Summits, New Route on Gasherbrum II, and more..

Over the past week most of my time has been used covering the recent Michael Reardon tragedy.  This is not to say that nothing was happening though, but I felt that I had the opportunity to do something for Michael and his family and friends that other sites just couldn’t do.

To get back up to pace, I will be offering a synopsis of what has been going around in the headlines.  So let’s jump right in…

Avalanche on Gasherbrum II

On July 19, a massive avalanche was reported from Gasherbrum II.  The Amical Team, hoping for a summit push, was suddenly buried in snow.  One member died in this tragic incident, another member was unable to be located, and the rest of the team suffered various degrees on injury.

Hirotaki Takeuchi, a member of the devestated Amical team, reported in to ExplorersWeb about the incident saying that the group got swept up in the avalanche and carried down 300 meters to the seracs. 

Other teams on GII soon went up and helped in a massive search and rescue which resulted in Hirotaki and others being able to survive this ordeal.  Much credit is given to these teams in their efforts for this rescue between Camps 2 & 3 on Gasherbrum II.

Italians Summit Gasherbrum II, Establish New Route

Karl Unterkircher, Daniele Bernasconi, and Michele Compagnoni made alpine history today as they successfully summited Gasherbrum II via a new route–The North Face.

The team had been climbing for the past three days, and began a successful push for the summit a bit earlier today.  This is great news following the tragedy on GII earlier this week with the Amical Team.

For more on this story, please stop by The Adventure Blog for more information.

Massive Summits on K2 Today

Around 3:30 Pm today reports started circulating that the first team to reach K2’s summit this season had arrived.  That was just the beginning though…17 more climbers would soon top out on what many people claim as the world’s deadliest mountain.

Over the years, K2 has had a total of 269 summits.  That is right, 269.  In Comparison, Mt. Everest, the world’s highest peak as well as most publicised, had well over 500 summits….this year alone.  K2 has also claimed the lives of 69 people in the process, giving it a death-to-success ratio of 24%.  One in four have died trying to bag this coveted peak.

For more on the list of successful K2 summiters today, I will refer you to ExplorersWeb for the complete story.

On a sad note, a yet unnamed Sherpa took a tragic fall and perished during today’s activities.  The Sherpa, who was working with the Korean Men’s Team, slipped and began to fall.  Two climber’s close to him tried to grab him as he came by, but they were unsuccessful in their attempt.  More details on this tragic incident will be expected in the coming days.

BREAKING NEWS: FAMED AMERICAN SOLO CLIMBER< MICHAEL REARDON DEAD AT 36

BREAKING NEWS–BREAKING NEWS–BREAKING NEWS

Famed American Climber Michael Reardon, 36, has died in Ireland.  He was taking part in a special shoot for an American Climbing magazine, had just finished his climb and was standing on a rock shelf–when a wave knocked him off and into the sea.  Michael was unable to get out of the water.  The Coast Guard immediately put out an alarm, but as of this time, Michael Reardon has not been found and is feared dead.

Michael’s wife Marci and 13 year old daughter are scheduled to arrive in Ireland some time tomorrow.  Michael was scheduled to leave back for the states today.

This story is still developing.  As far as I know this news has not hit the US newswire at this point.

If you don’t know Michael Reardon, Please follow the following links to learn more about this incredible climber–

Climber Reaching for New Heights

Interview with Michael Reardon

From Wikipedia

I will be updating you when more is known.  At this time, it is rumored that Michael Reardon was doing a shoot for Climbing Magazine.  No word has been mentioned from their site at this time.  Efforts continue to try to locate his body, but it is being called a recovery mission at this time.  He was staying with a close friend in Ireland when this tragedy struck.  His friend has been on the Irish News Services discussing these tragic events

Our thoughts and prayers go out to Marci and his daughter, as well as their family, friends, and associates.  Micheal Reardon will be greatly missed in the climbing world, but his legacy and never-give-up attitude will be with us forever.

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

BREAKING NEWS UPDATE: Body of Christine Boskoff Found

In December of 2006, two high profile climbers Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler went missing in the Sechuan Province of China.

The subsequent news of this event shook the climbing community to it’s foundation.  At the time in December 2006, much of the world was focused on three lost climbers on Mt. Hood in Oregon and the ensuing Rescue mission that eventually turned into a Recovery.

Charlie Fowler, a world reknown climber and photographer, along with Christine Boskoff, a World class climber in her own right and subsequent owner of Mountain Madness, one of the world’s leading mountain expedition companies,  set out to claim some unchartered peaks in China.  A vacation they had been planning on for two years.

The two soon dissappeared and an all out search effort ensued in China with little media coverage.

On December 29, 2006 Charlie Fowler’s body was found on Genyen Peak, but there were no signs of Christine.

On January 2, 2007 the search for Christine Boskoff was essentially called off with her being presumed dead.

On July 8th 2007, Everest is Ours, A Blog discussing Mt. Everest and the Climbing world made a post about the continued search for Christine Boskoff.  You may find that HERE.

Also this month Climbing Magazine, which I am a subscriber also ran a story about Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler and the continued efforts to find Christine.

Today it is being reported by Mountain Madness President Mark Gunlogson that Christine Boskoff’s Body has been found near where Charlie Fowler’s was found last December.

Here is Mountain Madness’ Complete Press Release:

SEATTLE July 9, 2007 – The body of accomplished US climber Christine Boskoff was found in the mountains of southern China on July 3rd, local China time.  The search and recovery team supported by Mountain Madness, the Seattle-based adventure guide company owned by Boskoff, resumed their search for Boskoff last May on the remote mountain peak of Genyan Massif in Sichuan Province. 

Last November, Boskoff and her climbing partner Charlie Fowler, also a renowned high-altitude mountain climber, were on a personal climbing expedition in Sichuan Province when the pair failed to return to the U.S.  Fowler’s body was recovered on December 27th, and search crews ceased their efforts to search and recover Boskoff until the spring due to winter weather.  Both are believed to have died in an avalanche.

“We resumed the search and recovery efforts for Chris once the weather improved and rock fall hazards lessened,” said Mark Gunlogson, president of Mountain Madness.  “This latest news brings closure to what was a great loss for her family, friends, Mountain Madness and the climbing community.  Chris lived life to the fullest and she died doing what she loved best in one of her most favorite places to climb.” 

“Chris established a legacy as one of the most successful female high altitude mountaineers in history, having climbed six 8,000 meter peaks including two successful ascents of Everest. She brought her tremendous climbing experience, unique humility for someone so accomplished, and love of the mountains to Mountain Madness and its many clients where she built one of the world’s foremost climbing organizations. We will miss her enthusiasm and infectious smile, but will continue to draw upon her spirit as we move forward,” said David C. Jones, Mountain Madness board member. 

A memorial fund to benefit Room to Read has been set up in Boskoff’s name to benefit school children in Nepal.  Boskoff was a former board member of the non-profit organization that helps establish schools, libraries and other educational infrastructures in developing countries.  Room to Read is building a school in Nepal in Boskoff’s honor.  Donations to the Boskoff memorial fund, as well as surplus funds from the Boskoff-Fowler search and recovery fund, will go to support the school in Nepal and scholarships for girls throughout the country.

“She was passionate about climbing and her love of the people and the cultures she traveled to, especially the children of Nepal and we’re honored to be a part of this lasting memorial for Chris,” said John Wood, founder and chief executive officer of Room to Read.  “She was selfless in pursuit of our mission and passionate in her belief that children throughout the developing world should have access to great schools, teachers, libraries and books.”

To support the Boskoff memorial fund donations can be made at www.roomtoread.com or by sending a check to: 

Room to Read – Mountain Madness Appeal
The Presidio
PO Box 29127
San Francisco, CA 94129

About Mountain Madness:
Founded in 1984, Mountain Madness is an adventure guide travel service and mountaineering school based in Seattle, Washington.  The company provides adventure-guided expeditions in Africa, Antarctica, Asia, Europe, North America, South America and Oceania, as well as courses in rock climbing, avalanche and skiing.  For more info: www.mountainmadness.com

Contact:
Mark Gunlogson
Mountain Madness
206-937-8389
markg@mountainmadness.com

(Editor’s Note:  This article was compiled from information obtained from the following sources:  The Adventure Blog, the Everest is Ours Blog, and the MountainMadness Website as well as information contained here in The Adventurist.)

If you would like to catch up on the search for Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler, you may do so by clicking the following link for The Adventurist’s full coverage.

Alan Arnette’s Denali Health Scare and Update

We have all been following along with my good friend Alan Arnette and his year long effort that will hopefully land him back on Mt. Everest for a third time.

This past week Alan was doing a “training” climb on Mt. Denali, North America’s tallest peak.  He seen this as a stepping stone to his eventual goal–but the stepping stone decided to give Alan a run for his money, as we will see.

From Alan Arnette’s Post:

We climbed higher and soon I could see the top of the headwall at 16,100’. I was feeling strong, comfortable and confident. Actually I was enjoying the climb and feeling secure - then it happened.  

A hit to my stomach that took my breath away. I stopped in my tracks bringing my rope to an abrupt halt. I bent over to catch my breath. What the Fu*K? I asked myself.

I pushed as I consider what was happening. Was I drinking enough? I had a liter at breakfast and another half at the break. Eaten enough? Cream of wheat for breakfast and a Cliff Bar an hour ago. Warm enough? Yup, needed to zip down to stay cool and was comfortable. OK, covered the basics, what else. I felt like I had diarrhea. What had I eaten… the same as the others. So, probably no food problem including food poisoning.

Needless to say, the next few hours seen Alan getting worse.  His condition had deteriorated to the point where Medical Evacuation from Denali was intitiated.

To speak with Alan you will understand two things immediately.  1) Climbing is his life and 2)  Getting Home Safe is the only option.  Being a climber though–being on that mountain sometimes plays havoc with your instincts.

These guys sometimes put in years of training for just one climb.  Alan has put in years of training, definately has the experience to know when to say when–yet even at that point, it is a very hard decision.  I encourage all of you to check out his personal report of this expedition–this is as real as it gets and Alan puts it into words perfectly..( Click Alan’s Denali 2007 Report).Now on with the story..

Alan was airlifted by helicopter off of Denali and then taken to a nearby hospital.  The Doctors were baffled as to what Alan’s problem could be.  The next couple of days seen Alan return back to his home in Colorado and a much anticipated reunion with his wife.

At this current time, Alan has updated me that he is now feeling about 90%.  He is awaiting a meeting with his specialist and nutritionist to see if they might know what went wrong.  Does this problem slow Alan down though?  Not one bit.

He recently emailed me a few images of a climb–that is right–a climb that he has done since returning back from Denali.  He took on his local Long’s Peak in Colorado.  I am sure that this was both for the physical workout as well as the mental workout after suffering such a scary momment a week earlier, and at     14, 256 feet, Long’s Peak provided just what Alan needed..  This trip went well for Alan and he says that his training schedule is moving forward as planned. 

Alan’s next stop will be the Himalayan monster peak of Shisha Pangma.  Standing at 26, 335 feet tall, it is the world’s 14th largest peak.  Alan will be heading to Tibet at the Beginning of September for this journey, with a preliminary summit date of October 8.

Alan’s crusade back to Mt. Everest has been inspired by his cause to help raise awareness for Alzheimer’s Research.  This is a very personal cause to Alan, as well as alot of us, as this disease has touched so many lives.  Unless you have been there, you just don’t know.  And if you have experienced this disease in your own family, friends, and associates–then perhaps you would like to give Alan a hand in his quest.  You may do so by making a donation through the following link.

We are all glad to hear that Alan is doing well.  I will be bringing you updates as his Quest for Everest in the name of Alzheimer’s Research picks up throughout 2007.  If you would like to visit Alan’s own website which includes his own updates, as well as a Climber’s Forum, by all means stop over and let him know I sent ya.  You may do so by clicking Alan Arnette.

(Editor’s Note:  The Images in this article are the Property of Alan Arnette and represent his 2007 Long’s Peak Climb.  Alan has granted me special permission to publish these images, but they may not be republished without contacting Alan Arnette for permission.)  J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

$5000 Charge for Wilderness Rescue Ignites Debate–Again.

A Kansas man has been billed $5000 for a wilderness rescue after he injured his ankle while hiking along a steep hillside.

This debate has been raging for well over a year now–whether or not people in the wilderness, when accidents happen, should be liable to pay for their rescue.

Kansas is only one of a number of states who have been looking in to billing people that have come to need a rescue involving local authorities.  Colorado also has a similar law in place and one is also currently making the rounds in Utah.

The great Blog, Two-Heel Drive ran by Tom Mangan, tipped me off to the forementioned article featured in the June 18th issue of Rocky Mountain News discussing this incident, as well as the debate raging in Kansas.  You may read the whole article HERE.

As far as Colorado is concerned, there has recently been news that another individual will be billed $7500 for his subsequent rescue as well.

This is reigniting a big debate amongst outdoor enthusiasts.  Should they be charged or shouldn’t they?  I have already expressed my own opinion on this matter as it pertains to climbers needing rescued–(please see story posted HERE, for my opinion.)  How much is to much?

Alot of us go out and try to enjoy the peace and solitude of the outdoors for 1) it is great exercise, 2) it gets you away from the hustle and bustle of cities…and PEOPLE, and 3) It is alot cheaper to walk a trail then drive a car.

If all of us ran the risk of having to pay $7500 for rescue after a badly twisted ankle PLUS our own medical bills, would we still be outdoors?

Alot of the previous debate over this issue has occured mainly over climbers getting stranded high on mountains, as in the two incidents that have occured in the past year on Mt. Hood. More and more though, we as individuals are seeing this pop up for some things that seem–dare I say mundane?

I think the political motivation behind this issue has jumped from saving lives to making money, and in a sense, infringing upon our own freedoms to explore nature and the outdoors.

Perhaps a few people have taken advantage of the system.  Perhaps a few have ended up where they never should have been in the first place without the experience or guidance they needed to be there.  Is this a reason to Pigeonhole a whole section of the American population? Instead of going out to “Get Away From It All”, that “All” is slowly trying to step in and even take away the essence of being out there.

Read more

The Adventurist Sparks a Nerve….Twice…And You Speak Out!

This past week has seen two pretty controversial pieces here at The Adventurist take center stage.  The first one titled “David Sharp HAD to Die” was recently mentioned on ExplorersWeb and has seen well over 2,000 people stopping by to check it out in the past few days alone.

The David Sharp issue continues to be a very hot topic, even a year after this incident took place.  The media and the Climbing Community have been very vocal on their thoughts and concerns over this incident and it seems like everyone has their own opinions.  I figured I would highlight a couple of these opinions that have been shared here on The Adventurist, just to show you a bit of the differing viewpoints taking place:

First, From reader Yolan:

I am still amazed that people have a problem with climbers dying on Everest…..if you plan to take a risk like that, it is a known factor in the whole “picture”. Expecting a Sherpa (or anyone else for that matter) to risk his/her life to save yours, is way out of line….. ethics be damned…cerebral edema may not be a complication that a climber can prepare for, but as a climber, you have to know it is a potential hazzard in the “death zone” (called that for a reason!!) in a situation like and Everest summit attempt, it should be made very clear…. every person for himself!!!

From reader Leon:

It is unfair for members of the public to have such a negative opinion about how climbers are left in the death zone to die because they have never experienced being at that altitude and in such extreme conditions.

When a climber sets foot on a mountain, he or she SHOULD be awear of the dangers and be prepared for the unexpected.

And Lastly, from reader Helen:

Yolan and Leon have missed the central point here - from all reports 40 climbers passed David Sharp on the way UP. 40 still relatively fresh climbers with Os and Dex, 40 climbers with thoughts ONLY of the summit. You’re damn right the “public” have a negative opinion. Most people I talked to at the time (public all) could not imagine why anyone would think being the 431st or so person on top could possibly outweigh saving another “climber”. What story would YOU rather tell back home ? I made it to a summit thats been climbed a thousand times ? Or I saved a life ?

These comments just tip the surface of this great debate, but none the less, it is very interesting to see the different views expressed.

The second piece that seems to be drawing alot of attention is a piece I wrote just a couple of days ago titled “Dave Hahn, Usha Bista, and How The Mainstream Media Bites a Big One“. Read more

Dave Hahn, Usha Bista and How The Mainstream Media Bites a Big One…

First off, let me be the first to say that, quite frankly, I am pissed.  Luckily, I am not mainstream media and can rightfully say whatever I want to on this platform–so, I am pissed.

The media has picked up the recent story of Dave Hahn’s incredible high altitude rescue and once again turned it in to the David Sharp incident–

For the last two months I have been covering the news from Mt. Everest, I have not seen one…NOT ONE story about anything to do with Everest or the great accomplishments, or the 5 or more other rescues, or the 5 deaths…NOT ONE STORY ON EVEREST until this one in the mainstream media!

What Dave Hahn rightfully done was incredible, he saved a life that probably would have died within hours..but the media has already stepped in and skewed the story.

They have seemingly jumped on the “words” of various climbers claiming that Usha Bista was left by her team on Everest, without knowing ANY of the background, or for that matter, even her name.  They simply call her Usha.

It amazes me that they will report this story, skew it for the public, then cry about climbers rights, climbers etiquette…and try to arouse a reaction out of the public.  This is what is wrong, not only in the climbing world, but in news reporting in general! 

The facts have been stated at least two days ago by myself and a couple of other places about the circumstances surrounding this rescue mission. 

Usha Bista was rescued.  She was rescued by Dave Hahn.  She was found alone and in dire shape.  That is what is known.  NOTHING ELSE at this point.

At the same time, there are two paragraphs in the piece I just got done mentioning, talking about Usha Bista.  Another three about DAVID SHARP.

In a way, I have worked in mainstream media in the past as a journalist.  I know how these things go.  They have pieced this whole scenario on what the IMG team first reported on their Expedition Site.  But they state everything as fact even though it was stated that it was not known if she was left behind and further details would not be known until the IMG team had a chance to talk to her.

One other thing I found interesting in this bit of media circus journalism was the fact that they had a comment about this situation from Dave Hahn himself, as follows:

I was very concerned because her oxygen had run out. She was virtually unresponsive, and in a precarious spot on the mountain, on a steep snowy slope,” Hahn told The Times via satellite phone from Base Camp.

This is ALL Dave had to tell the Times, I guess, about this rescue mission, as nothing else was printed in reference to this conversation.  Now, I am not going “whistle-blowing” here, but do you not think that Dave would have at least talked about the rescue mission and what occured while he was on the phone?  It just seems like the rest should have been included.  Or was it excluded for a reason?  Here is more:

She was at a similar altitude to the cave where Sharp died on May 15, 2006, after an estimated 40 climbers passed him by, most of them without making any attempt to save him. His death sparked an international controversy, with some arguing that a rescue would have cost more lives. Others, including Sir Edmund Hillary, condemned the cynicism of commercial mountaineers.

Usha, like Sharp, was apparently on the sort of barebones expedition that charges clients typically as little as $8,933 and provides them with only basic equipment.

Also like Sharp, she was too weak to move when she was found by David Hahn, a veteran American guide, and his sherpa, Phinjo Dorje, on their way down from the summit. Hahn and Phinjo Dorje decided to risk their own lives by taking her with them, even though she was only semiconscious and suffering from severe cerebral oedema, or water on the brain.

Right there is 90% of this News report!

Do Not believe what you read in the media!  They Over-hype, Over-sensitize…and quite often never give you all the facts.

Alpine Climbing and climber’s ethics have taken a huge hit because of the David Sharp incident last season, perhaps in a way it was good, as this season did see quite a few rescues take place in high altitude..but at the same time not EVERY RESCUE is David Sharp!  Each and every instance is different and unless you are actually on that freakin mountain you have no idea how you would react, so quit your whining and crying and tearing down of a world you know nothing about!

Mountaineering is about risk.  It is about accomplishing the unachievable.  A test of self.

David Sharp did die.  He died in a horrible way that even to this day is still controversial in terms of what is and isn’t known…I just think that it is time we all move beyond David Sharp and quit trying to draw attention and raise opinions, cause a ruckus and deface a lifestyle all for the sake of alittle airtime. 

By the way, this story was featured on FoxNEWS today and is still found on their website, but I don’t suggest you go over their to check it out or you’ll be biting a big one just like they hopefully are.

What The….That is one BIG PIG!!

This is something just a little bit different than my usual posts on this site, but this was definately to good to pass up!

Jamison Stone, 11, yes that is right–Eleven–brought down this humongous pig recently in near Delta, Alabama.  This above photo is REAL!

This was a WILD pig found in the woods near where Jamison was hunting and could actually set a new world record for size and weight. 

Jamison seemingly hit the pig with 8 .50 caliber rounds, chased it through the woods for three hours then casually walked up to it and shot it point blank in the face! 

This wild pig weighs in excess of 1,060 lbs and it took some tree clearing and a backhoe to get it up and out of the woods.  The Hams alone on this pig would be as big as car tires!

So what is Jamison planning to do with his Prize Hog?  First he is going to have the head mounted by a local taxidermy company and then the rest will be mde into nearly 700 lbs of the best sausage Jamison has probably ever had.

By the way, even at 11 years old, Jamison is a seasoned hunter.  He bagged his first deer at age 5.

This just has me wondering in amazement right now how a wild pig, first off, can grow to this size, and secondly..how in the world had nobody found this creature before?

I told you this wasn’t like my usual posts found here, but I think you will have to agree with me when I say that this defiantely had to be an adventure.

Jamison, when asked about his plans for the future, said that he would probably never bag something that big again, but he will keep on hunting.  As for the present, he seems to be enjoying the attention that this has brought to him and has even been cast a small part in a small horror flick coming out about what else?  A Killer Pig.

Well, The Adventurist hopes that this is the first of many adventures for this youngster to come, but I think all of you will agree when I say that, right now, all he should be worrying about is bringing home the bacon. (sorry, but had to get it in there.)

Everest 2007 Update: More Details on Two Rescues As Well As Another Missing Climber?

Yesterday, I reported on two High Altitude Rescues taking place.  One was of a Nepalese Woman who had been stranded on the South Balcony, supposedly left behind by her team.  I now have more details on this incident.

I recieved an anonymous tip yesterday identifying the climber as Usha Bista.  I have held on to this information awaiting confirmation from other sources..and today it has been confirmed through the IMG team Expedition Update.

Here is what is known:

Usha Bista was climbing with the Democratic Nepal Expedition.  She got into trouble around 27, 500 Ft. near the Balcony on a push for the summit.  Her team meanwhile continued for the summit.  At this time, it is still a little bit sketchy as to if she was actually left or had fallen behind the rest of her team.

Here is a news item published before Usha Bista’s team began their Expedition.  It will list her and her teamates as well as their ultimate goal:

Wednesday, April 11,2007

KATHMANDU: Kantipur Publications on Tuesday handed over a banner containing its publications logo to the Democratic Everest Expedition team set to scale the world’s highest peak.
The team headed by veteran mountaineer Aangrita Sherpa, also known as the “Snow Leopard,” is set begin its expedition on Nepali New Year’s day.Publications’ Chief Financial Officer Deepak Bansal and journalist Aang Chhering Sherpa, the first South Asian journalist toscale
Mt. Everest, handed over the banner with best wishes to the expedition.

Kantipur Publications is the official media partner of the expedition.

The team includes Usha Bista, who will be the first lady from Far Western Nepal to scale Mt Everest, Ngima Sherpa, Chhiring Phinjo Sherpa, Bhuwan Singh Rai and Dorji Sherpa, who has reached the top 14 times.

The team will take photos of the martyrs of Janandolan-II and flags of eight political parties, United Nations and Kantipur Publications.

“We are planning to support the family members of the martyrs by making a documentary on the expedition,” said leader of the team Ngima Sherpa.

Through Mike Haugen with the IMG Expedition we are gaining some new insight into the events surrounding her successful rescue:

Within the first twenty minutes of our rest time (in C4 after summitting) we started getting radio calls that there was a woman on the triangular face of Everest (27,000 ft) that was having a very difficult time,” recalled Mike yesterday from BC. “A call went out to IMG guide Dave Hahn to watch for her on his way down. By the time Dave got to her she was in very bad shape and was nearly unconscious. At this point we all began playing detective and trying to figure out what team she was with and where their camp was. We figured out she was with the Nepali Democratic team and the rest of her teammates were high on the mountain. Dave had radio communication with some doctors at base camp. The doctors advised that Dave inject the patient, Usha, with dexamethazone to help with the effects of cerebral edema.”

“After Dave gave her the “dex” he had to get her down to lower altitudes or she would surely die. With the help of Lhakpa Rita Sherpa and a few other people they got Usha down to the South Col where luckily there was a team of doctors with the Extreme Everest expedition waiting to help. Usha was diagnosed with cerebral edema, frost bitten hands, and hypothermia. The doctors said that if she did not get down to lower altitudes with more definitive care, she would die. Since Casey, Dave Hahn and I are guides and were also headed down that day we were put in charge of coordinating the rescue.”

“Luckily the Extreme Everest group had a couple of Sherpas and a doctor, Andre, that they could send down with us. Since most people at the South Col had climbed Everest that day and were tired we only managed to find one more Sherpa from the Asian Trekking Expedition group that would help us with our task. For the extremely steep and rugged descent down from the South Col, Usha was packaged up in a sleeping bag strapped to a sled. Since carrying her down this terrain would be impossible we would have to drag her and lower her with ropes. This is a pretty standard rescue procedure where the patient is actually pretty comfortable and snug with a lot of padding.”

“There was actually a pretty big crew that helped us out of the South Col to the Geneva spur where the steep stuff started. We began rigging lowering systems with a couple of people lowering and a few guiding the sled. The very hard parts were the traverses where we not only had to lower and pull, but we had to make sure that Usha and the sled did not roll over. Eventually we figured out a good system that was not quite as fatiguing as when we first started. After the first hour I looked up at how far we had gotten and then looked down at where we had to go. I only did that once! We worked our way across the steep Lhotse Face and down through a rocky area called the Yellow Band. Once we got through this area it got a little easier because we were straight above C3 so we did more lowering than guiding the sled, but we were also getting very tired. Before we got to C3 the sun had set and it was starting to get cold.”

“We kept lowering and lowering and finally just above C3 a group of doctors from the Extreme Everest Expedition came up and helped us the rest of the way into camp. Once we were in C3 we handed Usha over to a group of physicians who put her in a tent under medical care. We were confident that she was being given top notch care. We were invited to stay in C3 but the thought of our own sleeping bags waiting at C2 was too inviting. By the time we descended the Lhotse face we had been climbing or rescuing for well over 24 hours so we were exhausted. A group of IMG Sherpas came to meet us on the glacier to bring us some water and to help us with our packs. As mountain guides, we never let anyone carry our packs but we were very tired. After a little fake resistance, we gladly gave up our packs and Dave, Casey and I stumbled back to C2.”

“This morning, on our walk down, we got a call over the radio thanking us for our efforts and letting us know that Usha was improving greatly. In fact, they were going to try to walk her down to camp II with the help of six Sherpas.”

It is still unclear as to why Usha Bista was left alone at the Balcony.  I am sure more details will be following shortly.  I will keep you posted.

North Side Rescue But Another Climber Missing?

There seems to be some great confusion going on today regarding another High Altitude Rescue.  It was reported yesterday that a climber simply known as “Marco” was found unconscience outside of Camp 3 and had supposedly been there for 48 hours.  The good news is that “Marco” was successfully rescued…the bad news…His partner is still missing.

I have now been able to identify “Marco” as Marco Epis of the Spirito Libero Expedition.  His partner on this expedition, Pierangelo Maurizio is still missing and no one has seen or heard from him since May 17.

EverestNews has put out this bulletin which will exemplify the confusion on this situation:

It has been another long long hard year reporting on Everest. False death reports all over as normal. Our news being copied and mangled. Of course those with clear agendas signing their songs and those who “claim not to have an agenda” signing their songs … Same old Everest, just another year!

The question is: Is another Italian climber, Pierangelo Maurizio,  missing?

Some seem sure no other climber is missing. Others off the mountain believe Pierangelo Maurizio is missing and probably lost now….

The confusion seems to get worse as most know an Italian climber, “Marco” was found and was saved from camp 3 on the North side. readers are telling us that Marco is not Pierangelo Maurizio and that Pierangelo Maurizio is still missing. Climbers we speak to on the mountain don’t seem to know another Italian climber is missing… Some seem to think Pierangelo Maurizio is Marco, other not… At this point, we believe Pierangelo Maurizio is not Marco and that most on the mountain does not know this. We hope we are wrong….

So with the risk is spreading a false rumor that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing as our news is repeated over and over, here it goes Pierangelo Maurizio is missing on Everest… Please let us know if you know where he is, people are concerned… 

We should add we know of NO other dead or missing climbers besides what we have reported to date and currently believe reports to the otherwise are false…

At this time it is known that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing, but that, in no way, means that he has perished on Mt. Everest. To date, only 5 climbers have been confirmed as dying this season on Mt. Everest.  They are as follows:  Dawa Sherpa, Two Korean Climbers-Oh Hee-Joon and Lee Hyun Jo, A Japanese Climber who perished a few steps from the summit upon descent-and a Czech Climber.  All of these have been confirmed.

On this issue, I agree with EverestNews that a climber is missing, as I have now confirmed the identity of “Marco”. 

Another interesting tidbit to back up the fact that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing..on May 17, Russell Brice and Kari Kobler each took part in a search and rescue mission to try to locate him…this next bit of information is coming from PlanetMountain and a recent interview they conducted with Nives Meroi on May 21:

On summit day, 17 May, there were problems with some mountaineers from another Italian expedition from Bergamo. I know that many gave a hand in the search. But to date there is no news about Pierangelo Maurizio…
Unfortunately there were problems… and we, just like the rest, tried to help as much as possible, even logistically. A rescue on a mountain like this requires the right means, you need to have rested, you need supplementary oxygen. And I have to say that the commercial expeditions led by Russell Brice and Kari Kobler were fantastic, offering all the means and their people at their disposal, unconditionally and free of charge. They truly deserve a big thank you!

Now I know that really didn’t answer anything to do with the question, but it does show that a mission was initiated to try to find the missing climber. 

By the way, if you would like to read the rest of this interview with Nives, Click HERE.
 

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