Everest 2008: Chinese Olympic Torch Expedition–SUMMIT PUSH IS ON!

Quick Update to the following post: Kraig, over at The Adventure Blog is reporting on a story on ESPN that states climbers are currently sitting at 25, 560 Ft on the North side, the usual spot for Camp 5. Not sure where ESPN has gotten this info, but it looks as if the climbers are definitely in place for a run to the summit! From the ESPN Update:

The command center has given its order for the final assault tomorrow,” Shao Shiwei of the Beijing Organizing Committee for the Olympic Games told reporters.

Will Update a bit more as I get more info.. 2:12pm May 7, 2008

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It looks like the Chinese Olympic Torch expedition is currently heading towards the summit with top-out likely sometime after midnight tonight. ExplorersWeb first made the anouncement, but reports are now surfacing on the Official Olympic Torch relay site as well.

From the Torch Relay site:

“A total of 19 mountaineers have been selected to bring the Olympic flame to the summit of Mount Qomolanga (known in the West as Mount Everest), the mountaineering headquarters announced at a press conference tonight. They will likely reach the peak between 10:00-11:00 a.m. (2:00-3:00 a.m. GMT) on May 8.

This comes on the heels of reports suggesting that a couple of the Chinese expedition members had tried for a summit on May 5th, but were turned around due to blizzard like conditions in the high altitude of Mt. Everest.

Silvio ‘Gnaro’ Mondinelli, who was on a summit push of his own on Kalapatter with teammates on May 5th, reported in to ExplorersWeb:

We have just seen the Chinese approaching the summit!” reported Silvio ‘Gnaro’ Mondinelli on May 5. “They were at 8,600m, in the middle of a very strong blizzard. They couldn´t make
it.” Silvio and his mates watched the attempt live… from the summit of Kalapattar.

“It was a large team of about 10 people,” Mondinelli said. “They had overcome the Second Step, but then the storm forced them down without reaching the summit.”

EverestNews, who had been following the Chinese Expedition pretty closely, has not released any new updates other than suggesting that China did not make the summit on May 5th. No word of today’s assault on Everest’s summit by the Chinese team.

From Nick Mulveney’s Olympic Torch Blog, who happens to be following the action as a Reuters reporter (and currently stationed at Everest’s northern base camp, we get a bit more on the recent developements:

“If the word around camp is anything to go by, the final assault on the summit of Everest will begin in the early hours of Thursday morning. Journalists and accompanying officials have spent much of the day taking souvenir photos and snapping up post cards at the “world’s highest post office”.

A paragraph later, Nick also says the following:

“The rumours would appear to be based on nothing more than collective will (or hysteria,perhaps)

Jumping over to the BBC News site, (they had also been updating reports live from base camp), they have not posted anything new since May 1st. It has been suggested that the BBC may have been banned from base camp and may explain why nothing new is being reported.

Yesterday, China released information about the Chinese Olympic Torch Relay team on Mt. Everest. Here is the news report from CCTV:

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=212fzv1Qcdw]

I think it is pretty safe to say that China is definitely making a new assault on the summit of Mt. Everest, Since their own “Official” Olympic Torch Relay site has suggested the same. I guess over the coming hours we will have to wait and se how it goes. The weather has ben playing a major role in recent days, but current summit conditions, from EverestWeather, would suggest that the winds have died down and the temperature is holding steady. You can see the latest Everest weather update on the right-hand sidebar on this site. Let’s hope for the best so that everyone else can get on with doing what they need to do on the south side.

Speaking of the south side, Peak Freaks has suggested that a few of their Sherpas have been allowed to leave Camp 2 and begin laying ropes to Camp 3. Everyone is probably starting to clamber around a bit more on the south, especially if they have heard that China is currently moving up on the north. May 10th lingers on the horizon. Let’s just hope that this might go as planned. Keeping the fingers crossed!

Everest 2008: Extortion and Death Threats–Guy Cotter’s Claim Unfounded? Or Founded? Part II

On May 4th, The Adventurist featured a post concerning mountain guide Guy Cotter. The post, titled ‘Everest 2008: Extortion and Death Threats–Slowly the Truth Starts to Emerge From Nepal,’ specifically discussed a couple of comments that Guy Cotter, who guides for New Zealand’s Adventure Consultants company, had stated to New Zealand’s Press.

These comments suggested that climbers in Nepal’s South Everest base camp were being forced to pay, feed, and pay for fuel associated with Nepal’s liaison officers. If climbers failed to do so, they were being threatened with expedition bans for this season’s Everest climb. Guy Cotter also went on record saying that liaison officers were threatening to shoot climbers if they failed to obey certain restrictions–

Jump Ahead Five Days

A recently published article on a New Zealand news site–Stuff.co.nz–recently had the opportunity to talk with Guy Cotter once more. This time around, he had quite a different story to tell.

“Mike told me that contrary to what I had reported on Monday to the media, where I’d suggested that money was being extorted from the teams by the military, that this wasn’t actually the case.”

“He went on to say that the military were being fair and reasonable and doing their best in a difficult situation and there was not the feeling that they were being treated as potential terrorists as we’d been led to believe.”

Seems a bit odd to me, as well. ‘Mike’, who Guy Cotter refers to, is Mike Roberts–currently at Everest base camp with the Adventure Consultants team.

Usually when reports of this nature come out in the press, it is for one reason only-to make up for something said that somebody didn’t like. In this case, Guy Cotter said and more than likely, Nepal didn’t like.

Two weeks ago, Nepal’s Home Ministry went on record stating that orders had been given to Nepal’s liaison officers that deadly force could be used if protests broke out on the south side of Everest leading up to China’s northern Olympic Torch summit. This was quickly refuted in the Press by Nepal’s Home Ministry, even though I have shown all of you the Proof, that indeed this was spoken and not baseless lies and rumors that they later suggested.

Concerning this latest piece of Press about Guy Cotter, it would lead one to believe, knowing what we know about the situation on Mt. Everest currently, that Guy Cotter spoke the truth to begin with. That would lead us further to believe that Adventure Tours has met some direct criticism on Mt. Everest after these comments were made. Were they threatened with being banned? Who knows. What is known is that things are definitely getting crazier by the day.

This turn of face by a leading guide on Everest suggests much more to the keen reader than is let on in the article, and none of us may know exactly what is going on until everyone heads home towards the end of May. Communications will not be censored, threats that have been made will come to light, and everything we wish we knew now, we will know. Just remember, most things that are being reported in the press barely scratch the surface of a truly strange year on Mt. Everest.

Everest 2008: More on Nepal’s Authorization to Use Deadly Force During 2008 Olympic Torch Summit Attempt

Nepal says it is prepared to use force - including gunfire - to prevent anti-Beijing protests during the Olympic torch relay up Mount Everest.—Published Today on BBC News

This article goes a little more in-depth than the piece found on ESPN that I posted about a few minutes ago.

“The torch has attracted protests in some cities on the relay route.

The Olympic Torch is not being taken anywhere near the Nepalese base camp.

But Nepal’s military and police have been deployed in extra numbers on
the southern flank of the mountain because of sensitivities over the
torch.

The article states that Nepal’s authorities would first try to negotiate an end to any protests before relying on violent means. A spokesman for Nepal’s Home Ministry has stated that a checkpoint is currently being built at 6,700 meters on Mt. Everest to monitor all teams as they make their summit bids on the Nepali side of Everest.

More Coverage:

• Nepal: Everest Pro-Tibet Protesters May be Shot— From CNN
• Nepal Authorizes Deadly Force to Stop Olympic Torch Protests–The Bradenton Herald
• Nepal Deploys Soldiers, Police on Mt. Everest–The Nation from Bangkok, Thailand

The article in The Nation goes on to state that 2 dozen police and military have been deployed on Mt. Everest with orders to open fire to prevent protesters from disrupting the olympic torch relay.

“Acting upon concerns of the Chinese government towards ensuring safe
passage of the torch, 25 army and police personnel have reached Camp 2
to prevent any activities against China,” the newspaper quoted Home
Ministry spokesman Mod Raj Dotel as saying.

The article in The Nation–from Bangkok, Thailand also states that more forces could be deployed if they felt needed pressure to control a situation.

“Nepal will not allow any such activities inside its territory.”

Everest 2008: EMERGENCY on EVEREST! RESCUE and MedEvac UnderWay!

BREAKING NEWS

Summitclimb is reporting some disturbing information on their expedition site. It seems like one of their climbing Sherpas, while going from the Khumbu Icefalls up to Camp 1 has been involved in the first medical emergency of this season on Mt. Everest.

This emergency saga began yesterday with the following post:

On a worrisome note: A sherpa, Gyelzen (1) Sherpa, has suffered an apparent stroke at 11:00 am on 17 April, 2008 at the top of the icefall. He was going up to camp 1, but did not reach there. Instead, he lay down on the trail at around 5800 metres/19,000 feet and complained he could not feel the right side of his body. He is unable to walk and his right side seems to be paralysed. 20 sherpas working together carried him back to basecamp and we are sending a helicopter for him now. We are very concerned about his safety and are working to evacuate him to the hospital in Kathmandu as soon as possible.
We are very mysified that this happened, as he climbed to the summit of Everest in 2006 and 2007 with no trouble. In addition, during today’s journey to camp 1, he was not carrying a partcularly heavy rucksack, nor was he climbing too fast, as he was together with the group. His age is 39 years old.

Then Today, we get two updates as to the rescue of Gyelzen Sherpa from Sumitclimb. Here is the first:

Mrs. Nima Sherpani telephoned us this morning to report that our team worked through the night to carry the ill sherpa down to Pheriche hospital.

Mr. Murari Sharma telephoned from Kathmandu airport to say the helicopter will takeoff shortly to bring the sherpa back to Kathmandu, where he will be immediately transferred to the Kathmandu hospital for further examination and treatment.

The second update:

The sherpa’s rescue helicopter has arrived in Kathmandu. Many thanks to all of the sherpas and team members who helped out. Also a very heartfelt thank you and our deepest appreciation to the Nepal Air Force for a brilliant helicopter-rescue.

The doctor examined Gyelzen Sherpa and said he is OK, he just needs some rest. Gyelzen is able to walk, speak, eat, drink, and seems fine. He went back to his village to be with his family and the doctor will conduct a follow-up exam tomorrow. We wish him all of the best. Thank God. It seems this was not a very serious accident, and could have been much worse.

As you can see, it looks like SummitClimb had a bit of excitement and gave everyone quite a scare.  Thankfully it looks as if Gyelzen Sherpa is going to be ok thanks to the fast response of everyone involved.  Let’s wish him the best.

On a side-note, I would like to take a second to mention that although most teams are currently in Basecamp and heading towards Camp 1on the South, part of the acclimatization ritual that ensues every season, the Khumbu Icefalls represent the single most dangerous aspect on Mt. Everest.  More deaths have been recorded from this one area, which does sit pretty low on the mountain, than at any other place-that is including the Deathzone on the south!  Teams, as they make their way to Camp 1 must go through the series of ladders set forth by the Icefall Doctors to traverse a large number of huge ice crevices.  Towering above these crevices are many Ice Seracs–weighing in the tens of tons that become very dangerous to climbers as they cross.  These huge ice towers do crumble on occassion and climbers have been killed from the falling ice debris.  Niot only do you have the worry of falling into a crevice, but you also have the added danger of ice towers crumbling on top of you.  The highest danger occurs in the afternoon as the sun is funneled into this area, causing the ice in the area to heat up and melt.  In the process, ladders have been known to fall on occasion.  The ladders also sit on a moving glacier which also jars the ladders.  Each time one goes into and out of the icefalls, it is a new experience with it’s own dangers.  Climbers in route to acclimatize mst traverse the icefalls upwords of 10 seperate occassions before making their final push towards the summit.  In many years past, death has occured fairly early in the season due to the Icefalls–it is good that Gyelzen Sherpa won’t be noted as this years first victim on Mt. Everest.

Sources:  EverestNews, SummitClimb Expedition Reports

Everest 2008: The Problem with Mt. Everest Journalism in 2008

Example 1

“More troubling for the climbers than the censorship is the fact the Chinese have essentially reserved the mountain for the torch from May 1-10, a prime part of the short climbing season. None of the 26 international expeditions at base camp, including at least two other Canadian teams, will be allowed on the mountain between those dates, said Karine Daigle, a spokeswoman for Mr. Thivierge.

Example 2

“Nepal has “requested” tour operators who organise Everest expeditions from Kathmandu not to take their clients beyond Camp 3 between May 1 and 10, but insisted that there was no pressure from China which wants to take the Olympic torch to the peak during that period.

Both of these ‘examples’ were released in the press today.  Both are regarding the same subject matter, yet both vary quite a bit as to what they suggest.

Example 1 is coming from Canada.com and has to do with a Canadian expedition to Mt. Everest.  The team, consisting of two members, was to put a 400th Anniversary flag of Quebec City at the top of Mt. Everest, originally from the North–but then switching it over once China closed off that side to expeditions-to the South.

Example 2 is coming from The Telegraph–a leading newspaper based out of Calcutta, India.  This article is discussing China and Nepal’s bid to shut down expeditions from the south from May 1st-10th.

Basis for the Argument

Both of these items are clearly talking about the rules handed down by Nepal’s Mountaineering association.  This list of rules had to be signed by both Expedition leaders and climbers before their permits were issued to climb on Mt. Everest.  One source is clearly from the western world (Canada), while the other source happens to be of Eastern origins (India).

The Canadian source suggests that none of the climbing expeditions will be allowed on Mt. Everest from May 1st-10th.

The Indian source claims quite the opposite and even suggests that climbers will be allowed up to Camp three, and quite possibly beyond–depending upon the expedition leaders heeding the ‘request’ (plainly in quotations) set forth by Nepal.

So which source is correct and which source is false?

This has got to be the biggest reason why so many stories emerge from Mt. Everest.  Rumors run rampant through the course of a season, without actual facts being the basis for the story.  These rumors, especially if something huge happens-like the case of a death on Everest, do little more than to rile up interest and tear people down.

In 2006, David Sharp died.  We are all probably tired of hearing about David Sharp, his struggle in the deathzone, 40 climbers walking by without helping, and the eventual assumption that Russell Brice, in theory, was to blame for not helping David.  This wasn’t the whole story–but it was the story as the media took it.  Yes, the David Sharp incident was a tragic situation. Yes, he probably should not have been climbing on a personal expedition. And Yes, he did die in the deathzone.  David Sharp’s story, while tragic, is only being used to prove a point.  Rumors run rampant and the media will, of course, print rumors if someone will put their name with it.  A reliable source can be anyone as long as they let the publication use their name in print.  It doesn’t matter if what they say is false, as long as they back up that false statement.

Now back to our examples.

Example 1 is credited to Karine Daigle, a spokeswoman for Francois-Guy Thivierge, a climber on the Quebec Team.

Example 2 is credited to the writer of the article in The Telegraph, with no source for the information listed.  Further down, in the same article, we learn that Jiwan Ghimire, the managing director of the Kathmandu-based Shangri-La Treks says the following:

” I would not call it a ban, but we have been requested not to go beyond Camp 3.

A Closer Look at Example 2

Example 2 also states that there has been no pressure from China for Nepal to follow these set guidelines.  Interesting.  Doing a little digging of my own. it kind of makes me think there might be something a little more–

From a previous article in The Telegraph concerning India’s stance on a Chinese Proposal to ban Tibetan Protests before the arrival of the 2008 Beijing Olympic Torch:

“At the same time, India has maintained that Tibet was an “autonomous region” of China and Indian territory could not be used for anti-Beijing political activities. Delhi also promised fool-proof security for the Olympic torch relay.

On China’s query whether India has banned protests of Tibetan refugees against the backdrop of reports that Bengal did not allow a demonstration, the sources said India conveyed that being a democracy, the country could not take such decisions.

But it was also pointed out that law and order was a state subject under the Indian federal system.

Calcutta police have decided not to allow Tibetans to organise rallies or meetings in public places in the city, adds a staff reporter. “This is an administrative decision taken by the city police department and the state government. Keeping an eye on the present scenario, we have taken the decision,” said Vineet Goyal, the deputy commissioner of police, headquarters.

Sources claimed that fears of adverse reaction among the Chinese people in the city prompted the decision. But the CPM has been supporting China on Tibet.”

So, my question is this.  Is India protecting it’s chinese sympathizing stance with China by stating that “there was no pressure from China” in regards to the second Example?

More Answers

From a post on ExplorersWeb regarding the rules of the Everest South side expeditions–this information is coming directly from the paper that ALL expeditions had to sign–

“Any member or helper of the team shall not proceed above camp II before 10th of May, 2008.”

As you can see, there is no mention of being able to even go up to Camp 3–let alone, past.  As far as the “Nepal has “requested” (in parenthesis) in Example 2–here is what happens if these rules and regulations as set forth by The Ministry of Tourism in Nepal, are not followed:

The government may take action to those for violating/ breaching
law of land relating to bilateral relations between Nepal & its
friendly country.

It’s friendly country happens to be China.  The Nepal Ministry of Tourism then states (remember, climbers had to sign this in order to get a permit) that expeditions may have their permits revoked for the 2008 climbing season as well as future seasons if these rules are not followed according to how they are set forth in the guidelines.

Is the media Biased?

By just looking at this one example (Example 2) the answer would seem to be a resounding ‘yes’.  India and Nepal are both protecting their future monetary and trade interests with China by following certain guidelines, both on Mt. Everest and with the Press.  India is reporting on what China is telling them to report-plain and simple-and also alluding to the fact that China has expressed a lesser state of control  than what has actually taken place in the region.  It is known that right before Nepal started to oblige China with these set “guidelines” that Nepal was granted hard loans in the amount of well over $120 million  dollars.  If India and Nepal do not follow the  the rules China sets forth and continue to garner a better relationship with the nation, both have a lot at stake-finacially and politically.

In Closing

The media in regards to Mt. Everest this season is definitely a tricky situation.  Most climbers claim that politics have no place in the climbing arena (Mt. Everest), yet China has made a very political move by trying to take the Olympic Torch to the top of the world’s highest peak.  From the standpoint of covering Mt. Everest, we are forced to add a bit of politics to the realm in order to give full and accurate coverage.  Is China right?  Tibet?  The Climbers?  It is not for me to say.  All I can do is try to cover Mt. Everest the best way I know how and try to banish the crap from the truth.  A very big endeavor in representing Mt. Everest and the history that this season brings.

EVEREST 2008: ENTER KATHMANDU–Climbers begin arriving..and STING, too

I am beginning to receive the first dispatches in regards to this season’s Mt. Everest climb. Climbers are beginning to trickle in to Kathmandu, where they are meeting up with teammates and guides–still trying to figure out just what kind of rules and stipulations will be enforced from May 1st-10th. Most are enjoying the sights and sounds of a new country. Little is being said about the recent ‘unrest’ in both Nepal and Tibet, and actually, at this moment most are surprised by how calm things are in the area.

From Alan Arnette:

“Most of my team have arrived and Thamel is bustling with fit looking climbers and trekkers on every corner. The shop owners are especially pleased to see their future customers and send a friendly shout out to each passerby. The pizza is still good at Fire & Ice. The one legged, nub armed man still begs outside. The dogs sleep soundly in the streets. And the motorcycles take the sidewalk when the roads get too congested. The editorial in the Kathmandu Post tells of the upcoming elections, a time for change and violence.

Alan goes on to talk a bit about some of the rumors concerning this season’s climb on Mt. Everest:

“There is a relaxed feeling in the air in spite of the tension this
year. Long time expedition leaders, local tour company owners and
people in the know such as Ms. Hawley are all nonchalant about the
rumors. It is what it is. Luckily here, the rumor mill is thwarted by
lack of blackberries and ubiquitous Internet connections. Mostly it is
word of mouth. Maybe better or worse but by the time you hear something
it feels more solid.

Perhaps this feeling Alan is talking about will help to settle some of the climbers’ minds–especially the ones making this journey for the first time. Alan has been there before. This is actually his third attempt on Mt. Everest, so it helps to bring a bit if insight into his reports. We will be keeping close tabs on Alanas his trip progresses.

By the way, Alan has added a special video of his journey to Kathmandu, showing everyone some of the sights and sounds he encountered along the way. If you would like to learn more about Alan Arnette, checkout the special interview I conducted with him a week ago..and if that isn’t enough, visit his own site. He will be making updates as the trip progresses. Climb On, Alan!

The second update is coming by way of email from the HobyJackson Everest Expedition. If you will remember back a few days ago, I profiled the climbing team of Sandy Hoby and Brad Jackson. Well, Brad has emailed me with news of their arrival in Kathmandu as well–

“Kathmandu is superb at the moment
albeit a little hazy. As you can imagine, rumours and speculation are
rife about permits, elections, restrictions etc but we are all
pretty happy to have arrived in one piece and be making our way to
Lukla on Tuesday.

Today Phil and I started going over the electronics for base -camp,
going over solar panels, laptops and sat phones we will be using up
there. We will definitely be well connected up there.

I must admit in all the hustle and bustle of arriving in Kathmandu,
we accidentally drank beer and whiskey for 7 hours yesterday, so
some of us are a bit worse for wear this morning. I just rationalise
that as building tolerance for future onset of AMS symptoms.

Altitude Junkies and Mountain Professionals are both based in the
same hotel and flying to Lukla at the same time so undoubtably we
will get to know each other quite well.

p.s I won a photography competition

Through Brad’s dispatch, you get a glimpse of the excitement of arrival. Another interesting bit of information is that Sandy and Brad’s Expedition with Altitude Junkies happens to be based, at this time, near Mountain Professionals–the team Alan Arnette is going up with. They are all currently staying at the same hotel, and both flying out together to Lukla. Coincidence?

As for the Photography Contest Brad alludes to, he was kind enough to email me the link. I actually just stopped by there to check it out. Awesome Photo , Brad..and congratulations on winning the ‘Ice” competition with Alpine Exposures Photography! Stop by and check out his shots–

Sting Arrives in Kathmandu

Found an interesting article today concerning Sting, the former lead singer of The Police (yeah, I know, I am sure everybody already knows who he is.) Sting has been noted as arriving in Kathmandu for some adventure trekking with his family. This is his third sorjourn to the area in as many years, with last year seeing him pop up in a local nightclub then belting out a few of his own songs. Perhaps he has Everest on his mind..not so sure, but it would be hard to picture him with a set of Crampons on. Anyways, thought it was interesting.

I will keep you updated as I get more reports in, but so far it looks to be going pretty much as planned. In the next few days, teams will be heading out to Lukla, then making their long trek to Basecamp. Alan Arnette did mention that the IceDoctors are currently preparing the Khumbu Icefalls with ladders, and other Sherpas and climbers are already heading towards basecamp. Will keep you posted.