Everest 2008: Trouble Brewing on Everest?

A couple of days ago The Adventurist, as well as a couple of other sites that follow the Mt. Everest expeditions every year, made posts concerning an attempt by the Chinese Expedition to put the Olympic torch on the summit of Mt. Everest. The news, as we reported, was that China had made a successful summit of Mt. Everest, but the famed Olympic torch, once on top of the world’s tallest peak, failed to stay lit.

China is now refuting this claim. China claims that the team was only setting ropes at a high altitude and that the summit was not reached.

Backlash

Along with China refuting reports of this summit attempt, they have also acknowledged their displeasure at a particular climber for posting these ‘false’ news reports that eventually made it into the public realm. The Expedition involved in these so-called ‘false’ statements is pretty well known, now that the news has been posted on their own site, as well as other sites following this year’s action on Everest.

China, as stated through EverestNews, is pondering taking action, not only on the climber involved, but perhaps on ALL climbers on Mt. Everest’s south side. These actions could include the ‘banning of climbers’ or ‘a few more days of waiting at base camp’ before climbers would be allowed up. It is also stated that climbers have already been previously warned about reporting on news related to Mt. Everest, where even the mention of ‘China’ or ‘Tibet’ can get an expedition banned. We have already seen this happen once with William Brant Holland.

Most of us who have been following this season’s climbing expeditions on Mt Everest know that Nepal, in agreement with China, has banned all climbers from going above Camp 2 until after May 10th. This is the key date that China has given the South Expeditions for their Olympic torch relay to be finished. Nepal has also agreed with China in banning all communications equipment, including computers, cell phones, satalite phones, video and photo cameras, until May 10th, as well. This makes information very difficult to come by.

Many expeditions are being forced to make small posts to their expedition site, only after Nepal’s liaison officers okay the communications to be passed along. In a sense, it is a dreaded form of censorship that continues to inhibit many expeditions from relaying news back to family, friends, and expedition companies. Some have elected to not make any posts at all until May 10th, others are somehow getting information out either through following the guidelines set forth on their climbing permits, or by other means.

The ‘Other’ Means

The permit that climbers and expedition leaders were forced to sign for Mt. Everest this season plainly states that these rules are in effect at base camp, and above, on Mt. Everest. Some teams have referenced going back to how things use to be–before communication and instant news became the norm through the internet. Previously, if climbers wanted to get information off the world’s highest mountain, they refuted to having someone trek to a nearby community in hopes of having a phone, or something even rarer in Nepal, a computer, to get information out.

Many teams have contemplated using this tactic this season to get around the provisions set forth by Nepal at Everest’s south base camp. Others have refrained for fear of being kicked out of base camp.

Peak Freaks

My previous post, in regards to the information that China had made a successful summit of Mt. Everest, then had problems with the torch, acknowledged that the information had come through the Peak Freaks expedition’s daily dispatches. I was brought to this information through the Everest is Ours blog, who touched on the information a bit further. Today, while trying to progress with this post, I have since learned that the Everest is Ours blog has closed. Unfortunately, all information contained on the blog has also vanished. Needless to say, the information that was highlighted on the blog still remains on the Peak Freaks site.

Furthermore, in my previous post I also stated the following:

“The reports on the Chinese Everest attempt is coming by way of Peak Freaks, who for some odd reason are on the South side of Everest–completely opposite the Chinese team on the north–but are getting more info out to the public than the reporters in Chinese base camp. Kudos for them, anyways, in giving us a glimpse of what is actually taking place.

Seems like China has now taken notice, as well, and now plans to possibly punish everyone for one teams reports. This seems a bit harsh, especially when you consider that all rules pertaining to the original permit that was signed, has been followed. These rules, even though it pertains to Nepal’s side of Mt. Everest, were wrote in conjunction with specifications that China had requested.

The Rules Were Followed?

Peak Freaks, in anticipation of the new rules set out before them, hatched a plan for communications and getting news out of Base Camp to the world.

Read more

Everest 2008: The Nepali Army Arrives at Basecamp–Brings South Side Climbers to Halt

We were all wondering when it was going to happen. It finally has.

A couple of weeks back it was mentioned on this site, as well as others, that Nepal was issuing permits for the South side of Everest. This was good news considering that China had abruptly closed the North to all expeditions because of their quest to bring the Olympic torch to the top via the North Col route.

Climbers were required to sign a legal paper with a set list of rules for expeditions to follow on the South, by the Nepal authorities. This paper included how high climbers could climb during the May 1-10th, as well as regards to communications and the establishment of Liaison climbing officers in Basecamp, Camp 1, and Camp 2 on Everest.

Peak Freaks, through their communications blog, is reporting that the Liaison Officer for Basecamp arrived today. The senior liaison officer then proceeded to put a halt to the progress taking place in the Khumbu Icefalls by calling the Icefall Doctors, a small group of sherpa’s that help lay rope and ladders through the maze of crevices at the Icefall, over and telling them to quit fixing ropes up the route.

“Leaders were told that the ice-fall doctors have been given permission to complete the route to Camp 1 but no one was to climb until the military officials have all arrived.”

This is coming after a meeting with officials in the Peak Freaks tent in regards to the Icefall closure.

Adventure Consultants chimed in a bit later with a report of there own:

“This is all part of the unusual regulations being enforced due to Chinese plans to light the Olympic Torch on Everest, complicated by the recent Nepalese elections and the continued closure of all Nepalese Government Departments. This is all quite frustrating for all Everest expeditions who wish to get C1 and C2 established and stocked.

Adventure Consultants then acknowledged that the Nepali Army Major is due into Camp tomorrow , with hopefully more news that will give climbers a better understanding of what is going on at Basecamp.

David Tait, who scratched a North Side bid to climb from the South after China closed off the North, is reporting that all helicopter flights into Basecamp have also been halted by the Nepal Government. This is due in regards to pressure brought on by China over the security of their bid to put the torch on the summit. David says that he has been told that the only flights into and out of Basecamp this year could be for emergency personnel and evacs only–if they are needed, and only then if it is approved by someone very high up in the Nepal Government.

David had actually flown in to Kathmandu for emergency dental work-he learned all of this as he was preparing to fly into Basecamp. Instead David and his Sherpa were required to hike the distance from Lukla to Basecamp.

Tensions are definitely running a bit high in camp. The Nepal liaison officers and army have everyone on edge, with nobody really knowing what is actually going on and what will become of this season’s climb. Many teams were preparing to head on up thorugh the Icefalls and try to get the higher Camps 1 & 2 set and stocked for the climbers as the officers entered Camp. It is not known at this time what effects if any, this will eventually have in the whole acclimatization process–it is known that any hold-up at all, at this point, could be devestating to climbers who have planned for over a year to get to where they are.

ExplorersWeb is noting today that it seems as if the Maoists have won the general election held in Nepal a couple of days ago as well. If this indeed proves to be true, then the whole of Nepal’s government could be changing in the coming days and weeks, The Maoists will be taking control and Nepal’s decades old Royal Family could be very well out of jobs. It is not known if this will hold any effects on this season’s Everest climb as well. New government generally means new rules. We will have to wait and see.

Everest 2008: China Prepares Route up North

The Adventure Blog has tipped us off to an update on the Chinese Olympic Torch Expedition today.

According to EverestNews, the Chinese Expedition has made it as far as Advanced Basecamp on the North, as well as set up communications towers for cell phone service. The Chinese Expedition has already set rope to the North Col and are currently setting their sights on getting it from the North Col to the Summit. So what does all this mean?

You could look at it as the Chinese being ahead of schedule. Then again, with a team of 50 climbers and hundreds of porters helping them along the way, they should be. This also means that the torch run could happen sooner than expected, freeing up precious time on the south for the many expeditions waiting in line due to China’s recomendations to Nepal.

EverestNews goes on to say that the Chinese are not planning one summit, but THREE separate trips up Mt. Everest and the first will begin no later than April 28. That would be a very early summit if all goes as planned.

My guess is that the Chinese will be trying to take the Olympic torch up as soon as possible to hamper any chances of someone sneaking to the top with their “Free Tibet” flags-April 28th should do just that. Other than a helicopter landing on Everest, looks like the Chinese will get their wish—hmm there’s a thought..I wonder what they have in place for that…

Everest 2008: Video: Olympic Torch Ceremony Disrupted By Free Tibet Protests

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sju0Jod9SbU]

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQI0bshOJ2c]

China must be crazy to think this is going to be a peaceful Torch Run. Only look to see this get worse as the run progresses toward Mt. Everest–

EVEREST 2008: Protests, Confusion, and Bribes Pave Way For Olympic Torch Run to the Summit

The North side of Mt. Everest has been locked down by China’s Red Curtain until May 10th. The South (Nepal) side is still up for grabs, but for long how can be anyone’s guess. Confusion and uncertainty is running rampant not only through the climbing communities, but also around the international circles.

Many people have their eyes drawn to Tibet and Nepal. Many people have invested thousands of dollars, hundreds of thousands, in order to get a chance at the world’s highest peak in 2008. Their investment of a lifetime may come up short-handed as China closes it’s grasp on Mt. Everest and the climbing community that brings millions of dollars into this region each and every year.

Yesterday, I went in to some detail pertaining to the confusion that some of the expeditions were now suffering through. A lot of the necessary equipment to climb Mt. Everest has already been shipped to the region. The cost of shipping alone is in the thousands of dollars–now these same expeditions are wondering whether to bring their equipment home, perhaps stay and try another peak, or even try to get a new permit to the South (Nepal) side of Mt. Everest–but even that, at this point, is in jeopardy of being shut down till May 10th, as well.

China’s Decision Came as A Complete Surprise–

I hinted yesterday that some expeditions may have been alerted to the situation before it was announced by China that the North side would be closed. Last season there were bits of rumors being passed around that this was China’s plan. These rumors were essentially put to rest though after a highly publicized announcement by Sherpa Ang Tshering, head of Nepal’s Mountaineering Association, that suggested that China had no plans to close Mt. Everest in 2008. We see how that went–

“There had been rumors that the mountain would be closed, but officials denied this.”

This is coming from a report in the finnish newspaper Helsingin Sanomat International.
Actually, the officials denied this clear up until about two days ago when the expedition companies were sent an official letter suggesting otherwise– Read more

BREAKING NEWS: Russian Canoeists Missing in China Rescued Alive!

Breaking News—Breaking News—Breaking News—-Breaking News

 

Reuters has reported within the last 30 minutes that two of the six missing Russian Canoeists have been rescued in China.  The two members of the Russian team were rescued after nearly three weeks of search and rescue efforts revealed little. 

Alexander Zverev was the first member to be rescued today, and on a television news program he proclaimed that he had thought the other five members of the team had died in the canoe accident three weeks ago.  Zverev survived with very little food, if any, for three weeks in the deep gorges of China.

Just hours after Zverev’s miraculous recovery, news hit the Russian Television station Vesti-24 that another member had been found alive.  Andrei Pautov, 28, had as well, survived.

The six members of the Russian canoe expedition took off three weeks ago along the Yurungkatz River for what was suppose to be a routine canoe trip.  Two seperate canoes took the riders down the river, then tragedy struck.  The first canoe carrying two members capsized.  There was no hope.  The follow-up canoe grabbed their comrades out of the river and left them on the bank, dead.  The other four continued on.  On down the river the second canoe, as the first, capsized as well.

Last weekend, three bodies were recovered.  Two on the bank and one from the river.  With the rescue of the two Russians today, a renewed effort may be placed into the search that had long lost hope of a successful recovery of anyone being found alive.  Somewhere, Someplace.  There is still one member of this team not found.  Let’s all hope and pray that he will be brought home as well and hopefully alive.

 

Alan Arnette Arrives at Shisha Pangma

After a couple of days of travel, Alan Arnette and Project Himalaya have finally made it to Shisha Pangma Basecamp.

Alan is reporting that all is well.  He is able to sleep comfortably and his acclimatization seems to be going rather well.  He has had no problems to speak of–which is a very good sign after the Denali scare a few months back.

“Last night after dinner, I just stood in the middle of the field staring upwards. So many stars. So many stars. The Milky Way appeared as a dense cloud that stretched from the north horizon to the south horizon without interruption. It was a pure rainbow of stars and galaxies. One felt small looking at the vastness of deep space. Over the Himalayas into Nepal, lightening provided a constant light show.”

As you can tell, Alan has a way of making us all feel the surroundings in his posts.

Over the coming days Alan and the Project Himalaya team will be going up and trying to establish ABC camp.  From the photo of Basecamp above, at roughly 16,500 ft., it doesn’t look like much at this time–over the coming days Alan will be going up another 2,000 ft. and hitting the snows that the Himalaya is famous for.

To read Alan’s personal trip reports of recent days, head on over to his site where he is posting regular dispatches from Shisha–the world’s 14th tallest peak.

Alan is also all over the place.  Besides his own site, myself as well as The Adventure Blog and ExplorersWeb are posting regular updates.

Keep in mind that Alan is climbing to help raise awareness and funds for Alzheimers Research.  100% of the funds raised during this process and his eventual landing at Mt. Everest in 2008 are all in support of this project.  To help Alan out, stop on over and make a small donation.  You don’t have to donate to follow along, but I am sure Alan would appreciate the generosity and support.  You may leave a small donation by clicking here:

Everest 2008: Climbers will be screened, Officers Stationed at ABC, and more from Nepal..

Next year’s spring Everest season is already drawing quite a bit of interest in the media around the world.  With China planning on running the Olympic Torch to the top of Everest from the North and rumors flying about a possible limit on Expeditions taking place on both sides, we now have a few answers coming from Ang Tshering and ExplorersWeb concerning this issue.

Ang Tshering, chairman for Asian Trekking and President of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, has written in to ExplorersWeb with some news regarding these issues.

First up, Tshering confirms that there will be no limit as to the amount of expedtions taking place on Everest’s South Side.  He does add though that only well-funded, big outfits, with plenty of experience will be allowed to attempt the sacred peak.  Another change of note:  In order to have the chance to climb on Everest next season,  your expedition must not have more than three seperate nationalities taking part.  Originally this was noted as one, but was quickly revised after it was noted that Sherpa climbers who accompany each trip up Everest is, in itself, a seperate nationality and thus would not be allowed to take part.

You will also have to now have your plans in place for the trip to Everest at least two months prior to making the journey.  Which is usually customary anyways when involved with a big expedition.

Another problem arising from this past season on Everest was theft of equipment and misconduct.  Ang Tshering has stated that the CTMA will be taking ’stern action’ against anyone involved in such activities.  They will also be placing liason officers at Advanced Basecamp to help in their efforts to curb such actions from happening on Everest in 2008.  Both the NMA and Nepali authorities have given support to this idea.

It is also being noted that Nepal is considering dropping the price of Everest expeditions in the very near future.  They are asking for input regarding this matter from climbers.  Ang Tshering is personally wanting to hear your voice and may be reached at angtshering@asian-trekking.com , office@nepalmountaineering.org , or peaks@nma.wlink.com.np

EverestNews Inciting Controversy with Editorial and a Response by The Adventurist

I recently headed over to EverestNews to check out what was going on at their site.  Needless to say, I was quite surprised by a small editorial piece they are currently featuring titled Everest Rumors, Lies, and Ridiculous Stories.

This is based on a few reports that this editorial is claiming as false.  First off, it denies an increase in fees leveled by the Chinese Government this past season on Everest.  It then goes into detail about many sites broadcasting rumors and lies, specifically mentioning the possible closing of the North side of Everest by the Chinese for the forthcoming 2008 Olympics.

EverestNews goes on the record as saying Everest’s North side will be open to climbers in the coming 2008 season and the number of climbing permits given will not be limited in scope due to the 2008 Olympics.  They also go on record as saying that the rumors of China trying to negotiate the closure of Mt. Everest’s South side, via Nepal, is also completely false.

EverestNews Claims the Following Regarding Fees:

Stories that the fees in China were increased several times over were also spread, FALSE again. Why? Guides did raise fees which one would assume resulted in much higher profits… For most independents and operators the Chinese took a minor fee increase.. One must wonder what is the agenda here? To get traffic to web sites? To get published in rags? To help raise profits for some? What???

EverestNews is crediting CTMA and CMA as being two of the reliable sources that this information is coming from:

The CTMA and CMA appear to be getting pissed off by all these rumors, lies and ridiculous stories… Including false stories about climbers, who grow in number year by year… This will probably result in changes from the Chinese many of us might not like….

Last year’s “High-Altitude Free Tibet Protest on Mount Everest!” which was a “set up” where Americans went to China to get arrested and were successful is expected also to cause more tension for the Chinese and climbers which combined with these ridiculous stories will result in tougher standards on entering for 2008….

Now a Few Words From The Adventurist

First off, the CMA respectively refers to the Chinese Mountaineering Association and the CTMA refers to the China Tibet Mountaineering Association.  Now that we know that all of this information is respectively coming from China we may make a few comments.

EverestNews is based out of Granville, Ohio–The United States.  Why would such a site be bowing down to a communist regime in regards to it’s editorials? 

If you go back and read the article as it is printed on the site, you can plainly see that this little bit of marketing by the two forementioned climbing associations in China is nothing more than Chinese Propoganda.  Yes, they might be pissed off at the press, but you do have to remember that China is hosting the upcoming 2008 Olympics and with all of the recent bad publicity regarding China of late, it is no wonder that they would put out a piece questioning the recent rash of bad publicity.

Regarding the climbing fees–on more than one occassion this past year, climbers were told, once they got to China, that their fees would be anywhere from $1000-$3,000 more than what was quoted before they left for the climb.  This information is documented in the climber’s expedition blogs rather substantially.  This did not just happen to US climbers, but even some expeditions from the Philipines and so forth.  This is documented and this information that EverestNews has released bears no weight.  Tell us the sources and give us the figures–until the proof is out there on such matters, it will remain the same.  Too many climbers were claiming the same problem:  A rise in climbing fees after they arrived to get their liscence, which was unmerited beforehand.

As far as the Chinese trying to close the North or the South sides of Mt. Everest for next season.  This news, as I myself have also mentioned, has come not only from the United States press, but also the Press organizations from around the world, including Nepal.  It is known that the Nepali Government was approached with an offer to shut off the South side as well…even though, this offer by the Chinese could have fallen through in the last few days.

Next, we come to a couple of possible threats handed out by the CMA and the CTMA about possible changes taking place over the 2008 Everest season.  These changes are in reference to the “One World-Free Tibet Protest” that took place this year, as well as the Chinese becoming “pissed off” at the stories and rumors coming from Mt. Everest.  They claim this protest was a simple “set-up” to get the organization holding the protest arrested, and in a sense..free publicity.  That may very well be the case, but in another note, the “Free Tibet” campaign has been going on for well over 50 years now.  Each year new protests are enacted to bring the Chinese occupation of Tibet to the limelight.  It just so happens that this years protest took place while China was trying to do their initial Olympic Torch training run to the top of Mt. Everest.

What the CMA and the CTMA are essentially doing is giving themselves an excuse to deny liscences to climbers in the upcoming 2008 season.  They will base this denial on the rumors and lies of the foreign nations trying to take part in next years Everest season, as well as political turmoil of not knowing exactly what people are planning on doing.

While the supposed facts being represented on EverestNews merit no basis, it boggles my mind that an American Company such as EverestNews has seemingly given the Chinese Government an outlet for their remarks–given the Chinese’s past record.

Anyone remember Nangpa La?  Last year the Chinese military opened fire on a group of people trying to cross from Tibet to Nepal–essentially political refugees trying to leave a country they despised–some were shot in the open, in front of 60 or so climbers–including a nun who was mortally shot and killed.  After this incident, the Chinese Military seemingly invaded the ABC camp and essentially looked things over and waited.  They had captured some 30 odd children, women, and men, and taken them into custody as well.

Many people are scared of speaking out against the Chinese.  The guides could very easily lose their bid to attempt Everest and other peaks in the Chinese Himalayas if they don’t keep their mouths shut about such incidents when they do take place.  China has essentially used political power and intimidation factors to keep the “real” stories on Everest and other peaks silent.

Nangpa La was real.  Photos confirm the merciless killings.  Still climbers involved in the incident from around the world are reluctant to speak out against the Chinese.

In 2007 the Chinese Basecamp at Everest featured a security fence and armed guards.  N0 one was allowed around their encampment and secrecy was held as an asset.  At one point a couple of climbers got stranded high on Everest and the Chinese refused to take part in any kind of search and rescue efforts.  This should clue you in a bit on their priorities.  China is about China.  They protect through armed tactics and intimidation. 

So why would EverestNews take a stand and essentially side with them by posting this very Pro-China editorial?  The editorial even fails to mention who the writer was.  I feel the reason may be as simple as the 2008 Olympics.  They are positioning themselves to be “the source” of news and info coming out of China.  On the otherhand, by taking such matters and putting themselves in the public light with such a controversial move, I can not see how this will benefit them at all.  They may get the news coming from China, but at the same time they are alienating the climbers from around the world that understand the tactics China uses in an effort to “control”.

EverestNews makes the following question regarding the rumors, lies, and deceptions and the press that has put them out.

One must wonder what is the agenda here? To get traffic to web sites? To get published in rags? To help raise profits for some? What???

I am only speaking for myself at this time.  I have no advertisers.  I have no site sponsors.  Trying to draw traffic to a site such as this one has no meaning.  It does not benefit me in the slightest.  On the contrary, by putting up an editorial that questions the basis of information regarding Everest and other mountains–by saying they are lies, rumors, and so forth–we do need to question these intentions–EverestNews is essentially questioning the same people that they get all of their information from–The climbing expedition blogs.  They post no news that isn’t spoken first-hand from the Expeditions themselves on their own sites–and they do so 90% of the time word for word.  So who is to blame for the lies, rumors, and so forth?  Rather than calling out people that you yourselves rely on for information–perhaps you should look at yourselves.  This is a weak and futile attempt at bringing in viewers that already question your standards in the field.  China or no China, by printing the threats and “control” tactics, you are becoming nothing more than one of the many puppets you are trying to speak out against.  Just something to think about.

A Black Diamond in Red China? Equipment Maker Moves Production Overseas

For years, Black Diamond has been a leader in the manufacturing of climbing equipment, and good equipment at that.  Black Diamond has recently announced that some of it’s product line will now be made in China. 

Among American climbers, this has started an uproar.  First, there is the quality issue of the equipment–being made in China, will quality issues be forthcoming?  Secondly, this has opened up a whole can of worms for the US vs. China made products.  China has been in the headlines recently for a few “noteworthy” quality issues..ie..lead paint on toys..  Thirdly, is it right for a company that has prided itself on it’s environmental focus to pick the most unenvironmental friendly atmosphere in the world to produce it’s products, and last but not least, who is exactly producing these items–slave labor..ect..

As you can see, this is a very touchy subject.  Many people that have been fans of Black Diamond for years are spouting their dissapproval for this move.  I actually ran across this conversation taking place at the forums on MountainProject.

The very cool thing about this discussion is that Black Diamond and a couple of other personnel that work for various other equipment makers have chimed into the discussion.  People want answers to these questions, and Black Diamond has taken a note to do something about it.  I think this is great!  Finally someone that will listen and at least address these very concerning issues.

I have never seen a company step forward and publicly address these kinds of questions, on such an open medium.  Even if I don’t believe in the practice of shipping our jobs overseas, at least they are answering..Got to give Kudos to Black Diamond for these efforts. 

I am going to be keeping an eye on this one for awhile and see how it comes out…The Good:  Black Diamond is talking about the issues. The Bad:  Part of production has moved overseas.  The Ugly?  China has the worst Environmental laws in the world.  Will be interesting to watch.

What are your thoughts?  How do companies moving overseas effect your views of the product?  Do you actually look into the issues when thinking about new gear..ie..where it is made, who is making it, and the future effects of where it is made on the environment..Chime in and tell me your views by posting a comment…

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