Markus Kronthaler’s Body Going Home–Highest Mountain Recovery EVER!!
Markus Kronthaler’s body has been recovered. This daring Expedition on Broad Peak was successfully initiated by Markus’ brother Georg.
Markus, who was climbing Broad Peak (8, 074 meters) last year, succumbed to exhaustion and dehydration after successfully making his summit bid. His body was found near the summit by a team of climbers put together by his brother. Georg, as well as the rest of the Welt de Berg Team members, will successfully go down in history after making the world’s highest altitude body recovery.
Georg Krothaler is hoping that his success at retrieving his brother’s body will help encourage other climbers that these recovery expeditions can succeed.
I don’t just want to bring my brother down—I want to change the ethical principles in high altitude climbing. We can’t only focus on our sport goals and thus walk literally over corpses—someone who had an accident doesn’t deserve to be left there like garbage. Read more
Filed Under Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Alan Arnette, Austria, Austrian, Avalanche, Blogger, Blogroll, Broad Peak, Charlie Fowler, China, Christine Boskoff, Christine Boskoff's Body Found, David Sharp, David Sharpe, Everest is Ours, Georg Kronthaler, Markus Kronthaler, Mountain Disaster, Mountain Madness, Mountain Tragedy, Mt. Genyen, New Record, News, Pakistan, RSS feed, SAR, Search and Rescue, Technology, The Adventure Blog, The Adventurist, The Alpinist, UK, USA, Uncategorized, Websites, World, World Record, blog, blogging, breaking news, climb, climbers, climbing community, mountaineering |
The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!
I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist. I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.
This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.
Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!
Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!
Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….
Cheers-
J. Alan Hendricks, Editor
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Alan Arnette’s Denali Health Scare and Update
We have all been following along with my good friend Alan Arnette and his year long effort that will hopefully land him back on Mt. Everest for a third time.
This past week Alan was doing a “training” climb on Mt. Denali, North America’s tallest peak. He seen this as a stepping stone to his eventual goal–but the stepping stone decided to give Alan a run for his money, as we will see.
From Alan Arnette’s Post:
We climbed higher and soon I could see the top of the headwall at 16,100’. I was feeling strong, comfortable and confident. Actually I was enjoying the climb and feeling secure - then it happened.
A hit to my stomach that took my breath away. I stopped in my tracks bringing my rope to an abrupt halt. I bent over to catch my breath. What the Fu*K? I asked myself.
I pushed as I consider what was happening. Was I drinking enough? I had a liter at breakfast and another half at the break. Eaten enough? Cream of wheat for breakfast and a Cliff Bar an hour ago. Warm enough? Yup, needed to zip down to stay cool and was comfortable. OK, covered the basics, what else. I felt like I had diarrhea. What had I eaten… the same as the others. So, probably no food problem including food poisoning.
Needless to say, the next few hours seen Alan getting worse. His condition had deteriorated to the point where Medical Evacuation from Denali was intitiated.
To speak with Alan you will understand two things immediately. 1) Climbing is his life and 2) Getting Home Safe is the only option. Being a climber though–being on that mountain sometimes plays havoc with your instincts.
These guys sometimes put in years of training for just one climb. Alan has put in years of training, definately has the experience to know when to say when–yet even at that point, it is a very hard decision. I encourage all of you to check out his personal report of this expedition–this is as real as it gets and Alan puts it into words perfectly..( Click Alan’s Denali 2007 Report).Now on with the story..
Alan was airlifted by helicopter off of Denali and then taken to a nearby hospital. The Doctors were baffled as to what Alan’s problem could be. The next couple of days seen Alan return back to his home in Colorado and a much anticipated reunion with his wife.
At this current time, Alan has updated me that he is now feeling about 90%. He is awaiting a meeting with his specialist and nutritionist to see if they might know what went wrong. Does this problem slow Alan down though? Not one bit.
He recently emailed me a few images of a climb–that is right–a climb that he has done since returning back from Denali. He took on his local Long’s Peak in Colorado. I am sure that this was both for the physical workout as well as the mental workout after suffering such a scary momment a week earlier, and at 14, 256 feet, Long’s Peak provided just what Alan needed.. This trip went well for Alan and he says that his training schedule is moving forward as planned.
Alan’s next stop will be the Himalayan monster peak of Shisha Pangma. Standing at 26, 335 feet tall, it is the world’s 14th largest peak. Alan will be heading to Tibet at the Beginning of September for this journey, with a preliminary summit date of October 8.
Alan’s crusade back to Mt. Everest has been inspired by his cause to help raise awareness for Alzheimer’s Research. This is a very personal cause to Alan, as well as alot of us, as this disease has touched so many lives. Unless you have been there, you just don’t know. And if you have experienced this disease in your own family, friends, and associates–then perhaps you would like to give Alan a hand in his quest. You may do so by making a donation through the following link.
We are all glad to hear that Alan is doing well. I will be bringing you updates as his Quest for Everest in the name of Alzheimer’s Research picks up throughout 2007. If you would like to visit Alan’s own website which includes his own updates, as well as a Climber’s Forum, by all means stop over and let him know I sent ya. You may do so by clicking Alan Arnette.
(Editor’s Note: The Images in this article are the Property of Alan Arnette and represent his 2007 Long’s Peak Climb. Alan has granted me special permission to publish these images, but they may not be republished without contacting Alan Arnette for permission.) J. Alan Hendricks, Editor
Filed Under Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Alan Arnette, Alzheimers, Alzheimers Research, Asian Trekking, Austrian, Avalanche, Big Pig, Bill Clinton, Blogger, Blogroll, British East India Company, Christine Boskoff's Body Found, Climbing, Colorado, David Sharp, Davy Crockett, Denali, Donate, Earthrace, Ed Visteurs, Endangered Species Act, Ethiopia, Everest 2007 South Col, Everest 2008, Everest Basecamp, Everest Expedition Companies, Everest History, First Ascent, German, Hollywood, Internet, Life, Moby Dick, Mostafa Salameh, Mountain Madness, Mt. Aconcagua, Mt. Denali, Mt. Everest, Mt. Everest History, Mt. Kilimanjaro, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Vinson, News, Orlando Bloom, Painting, Pavel Bem, Pirates of the Caribbean, Police, Primitive Camping, RSS feed, Rocks, Rowing, SAR, Scott Fischer, Search and Rescue, Sherpas, Shisha Pangma, Sir Edmund Hillary, Slovakian, Sony Playstation, Sports, Switzerland, TV, Technology, Tent, The Adventurist, Tibet, Trekking, USA, Uncategorized, Websites, World, blog, blogging, breaking news, climb, climbers, climbing community, extreme sports, family, headlines, hope, humor, mountaineering, ski, sking, snowshoe, travel |
Alan Arnette’s Denali 2007 Report
My good friend Alan Arnette has finally put up his much anticipated Denali 2007 trip report.
Alan recently began his quest to once again head back to Mt. Everest–for his third time. This quest for Everest includes a year of very physical training on some of the world’s highest peaks..and his first true stop on this adventure was Denali–the highest m0untain in North America.
I have been posting reports about his expedition on a pretty regular basis–that was until the communication problems hit…
Alan was having a hard time sending back reports from Denali, and going by his latest report covering the whole spectrum of his Denali experience–it looks like this was actually the least of his worries.
Rather than rehash a report that is superbly written, I will let Alan share this experience with you…Just click Alan Arnette’s 2007 Denali Report.
As you will see, Alan experienced just about every emotion imaginable…including the pain of a high altitude rescue…involving himself.
Although Alan was not successful in getting to the summit of Denali..he did keep his true goals in mind…Knowing when to stop and Getting back home alive.
Alan has shared with me that at this point he is feeling better but still worried about what happened in the altitude, and at this point his health crisis is still a mystery..
He is currently concentrating on continuing with his mission of reaching Mt. Everest in 2008, while also trying to see a couple of specialists and figure out just what happened.
Alan’s first attempt ended in dissappointment and a true scare, but in some ways it was still a success. Alan has reported that he has recieved his first donations for his cause and the whole reason he is going back to Mt. Everest. He is trying to raise awareness and funds to aid in Alzheimer’s Research. If you would like to help Alan reach his ultimate goal, you may join his crusade by making a donation in any amount that you wish. Just follow this link..
I know we are all glad Alan is back and feeling better. Welcome home my friend! Maybe it didn’t go quite as planned, but hey…every good experience never does…
Filed Under Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Alan Arnette, Alzheimers Research, Asian Trekking, Austrian, Avalanche, Bill Clinton, Blogger, Blogroll, Climbing, David Sharp, Davy Crockett, Denali, Earthrace, Ethiopia, Everest 2008, First Ascent, German, Hollywood, Internet, Life, Moby Dick, Mostafa Salameh, Mt. Denali, Mt. Kilimanjaro, Mt. Vinson, News, Orlando Bloom, Painting, Primitive Camping, RSS feed, Rocks, Rowing, Scott Fischer, Search and Rescue, Sir Edmund Hillary, Slovakian, Sony Playstation, Switzerland, Technology, Tent, The Adventure Blog, The Adventurist, USA, Uncategorized, Websites, World, blog, blogging, breaking news, climb, climbers, climbing community, extreme sports, family, headlines, mountaineering, ski, sking, snowshoe, travel |
Alan Arnette Heading Up Denali
Most of you that visit this site regularly will recognize Alan Arnette’s name. I mention him frequently for his great coverage of the Mt. Everest Climbing seasons. Alan is one of the few people that can actually continuously report from experience, as he has climbed Everest twice himself, which undoubtedly adds a new demention to his coverage.
Alan has also become a pretty close friend over the past year, always offering insight and perspective on concerns I might be having with my own reporting and Mt. Everest. He has always opened up and even given me a few pointers from time to time.
Well Alan has decided to once again take up the challenge of embarking on a mission that will hopefully land him back on Everest in 2008. Through the beginning of this mission, Alan will be setting higher and higher goals until he gets back to Everest…all in a test of mind, body, and spirit.
His first step to reaching his goal has officially kicked off…climbing Denali.
Alan has landed at basecamp with his team and is now heading on up to Camp 1. In a special Audio dispatch from Denali, Alan goes into detail about the great weather and the views from where he is sitting, as well as him and his comrades partaking in a favorite “After-Climb” activity…drinking beer. It is a great sounding dispatch. Alan really makes you feel like you are right there with him on this journey.
Stop on by Alan’s site and keep posted on his latest updates. This climb as well as alot of others coming up in the near future, including Everest will be dispatched live on his site.
Also keep in mind that Alan is climbing for a cause. He is trying to raise money and awareness for Alzheimer’s research in hopes that a cure will soon be found. If you would like to help support Alan and his cause, you may do so by clicking this banner. Let’s all wish him a safe climb and return. Climb On, Alan!
Filed Under Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Alan Arnette, Avalanche, Bill Clinton, Blogger, Blogroll, David Sharp, Davy Crockett, Denali, Environment, Environment/Conservation, Ethiopia, Everest 2008, First Ascent, German, Guatamala, Internet, Kilimanjaro, Life, Moby Dick, Mt. Denali, Mt. Kilimanjaro, Mt. Vinson, Music, News, Orlando Bloom, Primitive Camping, Rocks, Rowing, Scott Fischer, Slovakian, Sony Playstation, Switzerland, Tent, blog, blogging, breaking news, climb, climbers, climbing community, extreme sports, family, headlines, hope, humor, leadership, mountaineering, ski, sking |
Alan Arnette’s First Step–Denali, 2007
My good friend Alan Arnette is preparing to take the first step in hopefully a long line of steps to his ultimate goal of climbing Mt. Everest for a third time.
Alan’s journey begins with Denali, which he is currently in position to begin climbing as soon as the weather let’s up a bit and helicopters can once again begin the transport process to Denali…
Over at Alan Arnette’s Personal Website, he is graciously allowing all of us to follow along with him as his journey back to Everest slowly starts to take shape. He will be posting dispatches as time permits from Denali. He has already posted two dispatches from this trip, which I will be summarizing in a momment, but first I would like to add that Alan is making this journey back to Everest, beginning with Denali, all in the name of Alzheimers Research…
If you would like to help out a really good friend of mine–with this dream of a cure for Alzheimers, you may click the link at the top of this page and help support Alan as well as his great cause.
Now on to what Alan is reporting from Denali:
In his first post, Alan spotlights that this season could be a pretty dangerous season:
As of today, June 11, there have been 1176 climbers registered to attempt all routes on Denali. Of the 547 who have finished their attempts only 193 have reached the summit. That is a 33% success rate. Normally about half summit each year.
Alan goes on to explain that high winds have pinned a few expeditions to lower camps and that 41 people have been subjected to falling into crevices this season with 5 deaths reported so far.
The good news for Alan is that he is currently safe and sound in a small town outside of Denali National Park, in Talkeetna, where he and his climbing team have been using the time to practice their knotting skills and crevice rescue techniques while they wait for their flight to Denali to begin the first leg of their journey.
Let’s all wish Alan the best as he makes this journey..Climb Hard but Climb Safe Alan!
Filed Under Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Alan Arnette, Asian Trekking, Austrian, Avalanche, Bill Clinton, Blogger, Blogroll, David Sharp, Davy Crockett, Denali, Earthrace, Environment, Environment/Conservation, Environmental Issues, Ethiopia, First Ascent, Fox, German, Guatamala, Hollywood, Internet, Kilimanjaro, Life, Moby Dick, Mostafa Salameh, Mt. Denali, Mt. Kilimanjaro, Mt. Vinson, Music, News, Painting, Primitive Camping, RSS feed, Rocks, Rowing, Scott Fischer, Sherpas, Sir Edmund Hillary, Slovakian, Sony Playstation, Sports, Switzerland, Tent, The Adventurist, USA, Uncategorized, Websites, World, blog, blogging, breaking news, climb, climbers, climbing community, death, equipment, extreme sports, fishing, headlines, leadership, mountaineering, ski, travel |
The Adventurist Sparks a Nerve….Twice…And You Speak Out!
This past week has seen two pretty controversial pieces here at The Adventurist take center stage. The first one titled “David Sharp HAD to Die” was recently mentioned on ExplorersWeb and has seen well over 2,000 people stopping by to check it out in the past few days alone.
The David Sharp issue continues to be a very hot topic, even a year after this incident took place. The media and the Climbing Community have been very vocal on their thoughts and concerns over this incident and it seems like everyone has their own opinions. I figured I would highlight a couple of these opinions that have been shared here on The Adventurist, just to show you a bit of the differing viewpoints taking place:
First, From reader Yolan:
I am still amazed that people have a problem with climbers dying on Everest…..if you plan to take a risk like that, it is a known factor in the whole “picture”. Expecting a Sherpa (or anyone else for that matter) to risk his/her life to save yours, is way out of line….. ethics be damned…cerebral edema may not be a complication that a climber can prepare for, but as a climber, you have to know it is a potential hazzard in the “death zone” (called that for a reason!!) in a situation like and Everest summit attempt, it should be made very clear…. every person for himself!!!
From reader Leon:
It is unfair for members of the public to have such a negative opinion about how climbers are left in the death zone to die because they have never experienced being at that altitude and in such extreme conditions.
When a climber sets foot on a mountain, he or she SHOULD be awear of the dangers and be prepared for the unexpected.
And Lastly, from reader Helen:
Yolan and Leon have missed the central point here - from all reports 40 climbers passed David Sharp on the way UP. 40 still relatively fresh climbers with Os and Dex, 40 climbers with thoughts ONLY of the summit. You’re damn right the “public” have a negative opinion. Most people I talked to at the time (public all) could not imagine why anyone would think being the 431st or so person on top could possibly outweigh saving another “climber”. What story would YOU rather tell back home ? I made it to a summit thats been climbed a thousand times ? Or I saved a life ?
These comments just tip the surface of this great debate, but none the less, it is very interesting to see the different views expressed.
The second piece that seems to be drawing alot of attention is a piece I wrote just a couple of days ago titled “Dave Hahn, Usha Bista, and How The Mainstream Media Bites a Big One“. Read more
Filed Under ABC News, Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Alzheimers Research, Animals, Asian Trekking, Austrian, Avalanche, BBC, Big Pig, Bill Clinton, Blogger, Blogroll, British East India Company, Cairo, Climbing, David Sharp, Davy Crockett, Double-Traverse Everest Expedtion, Earthrace, Environment/Conservation, Environmental Issues, Ethiopia, Everest 2006, Everest 2007, Everest 2007 North, Everest 2007 North Ridge Route, Everest 2007 South Col, Everest Basecamp, Everest Expedition 2007, Everest Expedition Companies, Everest History, Everest South Col, Everest South Col Route, ExplorersWeb, First Ascent, Fox, Fox News, Gear, George W. Bush, German, Historical, Hollywood, Internet, Kilimanjaro, Lhotse, Life, Lincoln Hall, Martin Strehl, Michel Fournier, Moby Dick, Mostafa Salameh, Mountain Disaster, Mountain Tragedy, Mt. Aconcagua, Mt. Everest, Mt. Everest History, Mt. Everest Summit, Mt. Kosciuszko, Mt. Vinson, News, News Broadcasters, News Sources, Newspaper Editors, North Ridge Route, Painting, Personal, Pirates of the Caribbean, Politics, Primitive Camping, RSS feed, Rocks, Rowing, Russell Brice, SAR, Scott Fischer, Search and Rescue, Seven Summits, Sherpa, Sherpas, Sir Edmund Hillary, Slovakian, Sony Playstation, Sotheby's, TV, Technology, Tent, The Adventure Blog, The Adventurist, The Everest Chronicles, UK, USA, Uncategorized, Warhol Foundation, Websites, World, bible, blog, blogging, breaking news, climb, climbers, climbing community, death, extreme sports, headlines, hope, humor, leadership, mountaineering, ski, skiers, snowshoe, travel |
Dave Hahn, Usha Bista and How The Mainstream Media Bites a Big One…
First off, let me be the first to say that, quite frankly, I am pissed. Luckily, I am not mainstream media and can rightfully say whatever I want to on this platform–so, I am pissed.
The media has picked up the recent story of Dave Hahn’s incredible high altitude rescue and once again turned it in to the David Sharp incident–
For the last two months I have been covering the news from Mt. Everest, I have not seen one…NOT ONE story about anything to do with Everest or the great accomplishments, or the 5 or more other rescues, or the 5 deaths…NOT ONE STORY ON EVEREST until this one in the mainstream media!
What Dave Hahn rightfully done was incredible, he saved a life that probably would have died within hours..but the media has already stepped in and skewed the story.
They have seemingly jumped on the “words” of various climbers claiming that Usha Bista was left by her team on Everest, without knowing ANY of the background, or for that matter, even her name. They simply call her Usha.
It amazes me that they will report this story, skew it for the public, then cry about climbers rights, climbers etiquette…and try to arouse a reaction out of the public. This is what is wrong, not only in the climbing world, but in news reporting in general!
The facts have been stated at least two days ago by myself and a couple of other places about the circumstances surrounding this rescue mission.
Usha Bista was rescued. She was rescued by Dave Hahn. She was found alone and in dire shape. That is what is known. NOTHING ELSE at this point.
At the same time, there are two paragraphs in the piece I just got done mentioning, talking about Usha Bista. Another three about DAVID SHARP.
In a way, I have worked in mainstream media in the past as a journalist. I know how these things go. They have pieced this whole scenario on what the IMG team first reported on their Expedition Site. But they state everything as fact even though it was stated that it was not known if she was left behind and further details would not be known until the IMG team had a chance to talk to her.
One other thing I found interesting in this bit of media circus journalism was the fact that they had a comment about this situation from Dave Hahn himself, as follows:
I was very concerned because her oxygen had run out. She was virtually unresponsive, and in a precarious spot on the mountain, on a steep snowy slope,” Hahn told The Times via satellite phone from Base Camp.
This is ALL Dave had to tell the Times, I guess, about this rescue mission, as nothing else was printed in reference to this conversation. Now, I am not going “whistle-blowing” here, but do you not think that Dave would have at least talked about the rescue mission and what occured while he was on the phone? It just seems like the rest should have been included. Or was it excluded for a reason? Here is more:
She was at a similar altitude to the cave where Sharp died on May 15, 2006, after an estimated 40 climbers passed him by, most of them without making any attempt to save him. His death sparked an international controversy, with some arguing that a rescue would have cost more lives. Others, including Sir Edmund Hillary, condemned the cynicism of commercial mountaineers.
Usha, like Sharp, was apparently on the sort of barebones expedition that charges clients typically as little as $8,933 and provides them with only basic equipment.
Also like Sharp, she was too weak to move when she was found by David Hahn, a veteran American guide, and his sherpa, Phinjo Dorje, on their way down from the summit. Hahn and Phinjo Dorje decided to risk their own lives by taking her with them, even though she was only semiconscious and suffering from severe cerebral oedema, or water on the brain.
Right there is 90% of this News report!
Do Not believe what you read in the media! They Over-hype, Over-sensitize…and quite often never give you all the facts.
Alpine Climbing and climber’s ethics have taken a huge hit because of the David Sharp incident last season, perhaps in a way it was good, as this season did see quite a few rescues take place in high altitude..but at the same time not EVERY RESCUE is David Sharp! Each and every instance is different and unless you are actually on that freakin mountain you have no idea how you would react, so quit your whining and crying and tearing down of a world you know nothing about!
Mountaineering is about risk. It is about accomplishing the unachievable. A test of self.
David Sharp did die. He died in a horrible way that even to this day is still controversial in terms of what is and isn’t known…I just think that it is time we all move beyond David Sharp and quit trying to draw attention and raise opinions, cause a ruckus and deface a lifestyle all for the sake of alittle airtime.
By the way, this story was featured on FoxNEWS today and is still found on their website, but I don’t suggest you go over their to check it out or you’ll be biting a big one just like they hopefully are.
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The Adventurist Welcomes ExplorersWeb With a Call to Action
I would just like to take a minute to welcome everyone stopping by from ExplorersWeb. As always, it is nice to be mentioned on such a great site and in turn, I am hoping all of you find something of interest here as well.
ExplorersWeb has seemingly taken an interest in an article I wrote awhile back titled “David Sharp Had to Die“. It was an interesting piece although to be quite honest, I was afraid to post it.
Controversy can either be an advantage or a disadvantage–depending upon how you look at it. For the guides heading these teams up Mt. Everest–it was a disadvantage. They were overwhelmed with an outpouring of bad publicity resulting from people continually wanting to question this incident…by the media.
To myself, there has got to be a point where the circus needs to stop. Everyone is always searching for the bad, without trying to take a personal stand to help change the problems that started the whole fiasco to begin with.
Russell Brice took a hit last year for the way the David Sharp incident was supposedly handled-this season it has been publicly known that Russell along with Alex Abramov from 7summits have been the first to line up for these rescues..
They have exemplified what mountaineering should be about. People helping people. They are all there for their ultimate goal, and all of them want to preach the team ethic..but unless they are seemingly all working together as a team, it can only be as strong as each individual effort put in.
That is why these tragedies, such as David Sharp have happened. When 20 or 50 teams are all trying to do what benefits their team and no one else, it breeds chaos when these situations occur.
With my article, I want people to look past this one incident. Granted David Sharp died on Everest in very bad circumstances, but so have alot of other individuals. It is time to move on and try to make the team stronger…
There are a few things that can happen to make this disadvantage an advantage for the future…
The biggest one would be communication! These teams need to come together and set up a radio relay so to speak–sort of like what we have here in the states with the “Amber Alert System”. If a climber gets in trouble, one message will be relayed to every team.
Also, perhaps there needs to be a “Rescue Unit” in place on each side of Mt. Everest. The Sherpa’s are great climbers. Why not pay them to do what they do best…help people and pay them proper wages to do so. That way if a climber gets in trouble or stranded they are not spread all over the mountain. They should be trained and know what to do and be at one spot where everyone knows where to turn. They would be outfitted with extra oxygen, and all the supplies needed to make a high-altitude rescue.
Yes, it costs money. To me though, it would seem like these Expedition companies would want to pay $20,000 for the good publicity of saving lives than nothing for an ungodly amount of bad publicity…when someone perishes.
Every person on Everest can not be saved when they get into trouble…but, for most, a rescue IS an option. It will only be made possible though if people are willing to work at this as a team and do something about it.
I wrote the David Sharp article in hopes of stirring up what could be done today..It has gained quite a bit of interest, and until something is done that could quite possibly save someones life, I will continue to be outspoken…
I have a great medium here on which to work. I have no advertisers to upset or people that are behind the scenes. It is only me. One person. One person with a voice for change and, if at times, that wants to be looked upon as controversial, then so be it. That’s my stand.
My hope would be that others will follow suit in expressing what can be done on this situation. ExplorersWeb has surprising stood along side me on this issue and I thank them for bringing this to an even bigger audience as well as expressing themselves so well on this issue.
We have a chance to save lives. I am tired of reporting deaths that could have very well been rescues, if only all the pieces would be put into place..
J. Alan Hendricks
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Everest 2007 Update: More Details on Two Rescues As Well As Another Missing Climber?
Yesterday, I reported on two High Altitude Rescues taking place. One was of a Nepalese Woman who had been stranded on the South Balcony, supposedly left behind by her team. I now have more details on this incident.
I recieved an anonymous tip yesterday identifying the climber as Usha Bista. I have held on to this information awaiting confirmation from other sources..and today it has been confirmed through the IMG team Expedition Update.
Here is what is known:
Usha Bista was climbing with the Democratic Nepal Expedition. She got into trouble around 27, 500 Ft. near the Balcony on a push for the summit. Her team meanwhile continued for the summit. At this time, it is still a little bit sketchy as to if she was actually left or had fallen behind the rest of her team.
Here is a news item published before Usha Bista’s team began their Expedition. It will list her and her teamates as well as their ultimate goal:
Wednesday, April 11,2007
KATHMANDU: Kantipur Publications on Tuesday handed over a banner containing its publications logo to the Democratic Everest Expedition team set to scale the world’s highest peak.
The team headed by veteran mountaineer Aangrita Sherpa, also known as the “Snow Leopard,” is set begin its expedition on Nepali New Year’s day.Publications’ Chief Financial Officer Deepak Bansal and journalist Aang Chhering Sherpa, the first South Asian journalist toscale
Mt. Everest, handed over the banner with best wishes to the expedition.Kantipur Publications is the official media partner of the expedition.
The team includes Usha Bista, who will be the first lady from Far Western Nepal to scale Mt Everest, Ngima Sherpa, Chhiring Phinjo Sherpa, Bhuwan Singh Rai and Dorji Sherpa, who has reached the top 14 times.
The team will take photos of the martyrs of Janandolan-II and flags of eight political parties, United Nations and Kantipur Publications.
“We are planning to support the family members of the martyrs by making a documentary on the expedition,” said leader of the team Ngima Sherpa.
Through Mike Haugen with the IMG Expedition we are gaining some new insight into the events surrounding her successful rescue:
Within the first twenty minutes of our rest time (in C4 after summitting) we started getting radio calls that there was a woman on the triangular face of Everest (27,000 ft) that was having a very difficult time,” recalled Mike yesterday from BC. “A call went out to IMG guide Dave Hahn to watch for her on his way down. By the time Dave got to her she was in very bad shape and was nearly unconscious. At this point we all began playing detective and trying to figure out what team she was with and where their camp was. We figured out she was with the Nepali Democratic team and the rest of her teammates were high on the mountain. Dave had radio communication with some doctors at base camp. The doctors advised that Dave inject the patient, Usha, with dexamethazone to help with the effects of cerebral edema.”
“After Dave gave her the “dex” he had to get her down to lower altitudes or she would surely die. With the help of Lhakpa Rita Sherpa and a few other people they got Usha down to the South Col where luckily there was a team of doctors with the Extreme Everest expedition waiting to help. Usha was diagnosed with cerebral edema, frost bitten hands, and hypothermia. The doctors said that if she did not get down to lower altitudes with more definitive care, she would die. Since Casey, Dave Hahn and I are guides and were also headed down that day we were put in charge of coordinating the rescue.”
“Luckily the Extreme Everest group had a couple of Sherpas and a doctor, Andre, that they could send down with us. Since most people at the South Col had climbed Everest that day and were tired we only managed to find one more Sherpa from the Asian Trekking Expedition group that would help us with our task. For the extremely steep and rugged descent down from the South Col, Usha was packaged up in a sleeping bag strapped to a sled. Since carrying her down this terrain would be impossible we would have to drag her and lower her with ropes. This is a pretty standard rescue procedure where the patient is actually pretty comfortable and snug with a lot of padding.”
“There was actually a pretty big crew that helped us out of the South Col to the Geneva spur where the steep stuff started. We began rigging lowering systems with a couple of people lowering and a few guiding the sled. The very hard parts were the traverses where we not only had to lower and pull, but we had to make sure that Usha and the sled did not roll over. Eventually we figured out a good system that was not quite as fatiguing as when we first started. After the first hour I looked up at how far we had gotten and then looked down at where we had to go. I only did that once! We worked our way across the steep Lhotse Face and down through a rocky area called the Yellow Band. Once we got through this area it got a little easier because we were straight above C3 so we did more lowering than guiding the sled, but we were also getting very tired. Before we got to C3 the sun had set and it was starting to get cold.”
“We kept lowering and lowering and finally just above C3 a group of doctors from the Extreme Everest Expedition came up and helped us the rest of the way into camp. Once we were in C3 we handed Usha over to a group of physicians who put her in a tent under medical care. We were confident that she was being given top notch care. We were invited to stay in C3 but the thought of our own sleeping bags waiting at C2 was too inviting. By the time we descended the Lhotse face we had been climbing or rescuing for well over 24 hours so we were exhausted. A group of IMG Sherpas came to meet us on the glacier to bring us some water and to help us with our packs. As mountain guides, we never let anyone carry our packs but we were very tired. After a little fake resistance, we gladly gave up our packs and Dave, Casey and I stumbled back to C2.”
“This morning, on our walk down, we got a call over the radio thanking us for our efforts and letting us know that Usha was improving greatly. In fact, they were going to try to walk her down to camp II with the help of six Sherpas.”
It is still unclear as to why Usha Bista was left alone at the Balcony. I am sure more details will be following shortly. I will keep you posted.
North Side Rescue But Another Climber Missing?
There seems to be some great confusion going on today regarding another High Altitude Rescue. It was reported yesterday that a climber simply known as “Marco” was found unconscience outside of Camp 3 and had supposedly been there for 48 hours. The good news is that “Marco” was successfully rescued…the bad news…His partner is still missing.
I have now been able to identify “Marco” as Marco Epis of the Spirito Libero Expedition. His partner on this expedition, Pierangelo Maurizio is still missing and no one has seen or heard from him since May 17.
EverestNews has put out this bulletin which will exemplify the confusion on this situation:
It has been another long long hard year reporting on Everest. False death reports all over as normal. Our news being copied and mangled. Of course those with clear agendas signing their songs and those who “claim not to have an agenda” signing their songs … Same old Everest, just another year!
The question is: Is another Italian climber, Pierangelo Maurizio, missing?
Some seem sure no other climber is missing. Others off the mountain believe Pierangelo Maurizio is missing and probably lost now….
The confusion seems to get worse as most know an Italian climber, “Marco” was found and was saved from camp 3 on the North side. readers are telling us that Marco is not Pierangelo Maurizio and that Pierangelo Maurizio is still missing. Climbers we speak to on the mountain don’t seem to know another Italian climber is missing… Some seem to think Pierangelo Maurizio is Marco, other not… At this point, we believe Pierangelo Maurizio is not Marco and that most on the mountain does not know this. We hope we are wrong….
So with the risk is spreading a false rumor that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing as our news is repeated over and over, here it goes Pierangelo Maurizio is missing on Everest… Please let us know if you know where he is, people are concerned…
We should add we know of NO other dead or missing climbers besides what we have reported to date and currently believe reports to the otherwise are false…
At this time it is known that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing, but that, in no way, means that he has perished on Mt. Everest. To date, only 5 climbers have been confirmed as dying this season on Mt. Everest. They are as follows: Dawa Sherpa, Two Korean Climbers-Oh Hee-Joon and Lee Hyun Jo, A Japanese Climber who perished a few steps from the summit upon descent-and a Czech Climber. All of these have been confirmed.
On this issue, I agree with EverestNews that a climber is missing, as I have now confirmed the identity of “Marco”.
Another interesting tidbit to back up the fact that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing..on May 17, Russell Brice and Kari Kobler each took part in a search and rescue mission to try to locate him…this next bit of information is coming from PlanetMountain and a recent interview they conducted with Nives Meroi on May 21:
On summit day, 17 May, there were problems with some mountaineers from another Italian expedition from Bergamo. I know that many gave a hand in the search. But to date there is no news about Pierangelo Maurizio…
Unfortunately there were problems… and we, just like the rest, tried to help as much as possible, even logistically. A rescue on a mountain like this requires the right means, you need to have rested, you need supplementary oxygen. And I have to say that the commercial expeditions led by Russell Brice and Kari Kobler were fantastic, offering all the means and their people at their disposal, unconditionally and free of charge. They truly deserve a big thank you!Now I know that really didn’t answer anything to do with the question, but it does show that a mission was initiated to try to find the missing climber.
By the way, if you would like to read the rest of this interview with Nives, Click HERE.
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