Markus Kronthaler’s Body Going Home–Highest Mountain Recovery EVER!!
Markus Kronthaler’s body has been recovered. This daring Expedition on Broad Peak was successfully initiated by Markus’ brother Georg.
Markus, who was climbing Broad Peak (8, 074 meters) last year, succumbed to exhaustion and dehydration after successfully making his summit bid. His body was found near the summit by a team of climbers put together by his brother. Georg, as well as the rest of the Welt de Berg Team members, will successfully go down in history after making the world’s highest altitude body recovery.
Georg Krothaler is hoping that his success at retrieving his brother’s body will help encourage other climbers that these recovery expeditions can succeed.
I don’t just want to bring my brother down—I want to change the ethical principles in high altitude climbing. We can’t only focus on our sport goals and thus walk literally over corpses—someone who had an accident doesn’t deserve to be left there like garbage. Read more
Filed Under Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Alan Arnette, Austria, Austrian, Avalanche, Blogger, Blogroll, Broad Peak, Charlie Fowler, China, Christine Boskoff, Christine Boskoff's Body Found, David Sharp, David Sharpe, Everest is Ours, Georg Kronthaler, Markus Kronthaler, Mountain Disaster, Mountain Madness, Mountain Tragedy, Mt. Genyen, New Record, News, Pakistan, RSS feed, SAR, Search and Rescue, Technology, The Adventure Blog, The Adventurist, The Alpinist, UK, USA, Uncategorized, Websites, World, World Record, blog, blogging, breaking news, climb, climbers, climbing community, mountaineering |
Conrad Anker and Apa Sherpa Joining Forces?
Conrad Anker, the man who became world famous for discovering George Mallory’s body on Mt. Everest, will be teaming up with his wife and Apa Sherpa to host a special “An Everest Evening.” This event, scheduled for August 9th will take place in Snowbird, Utah.
Apa Sherpa, who holds the record for climbing Mt. Everest the most times, 17, will be discussing his recent success with the SuperSherpas Expedition this year. Conrad Anker will also be talking about his own success on Everest this year as a part of his reenactment of the 1924 Everest Expedition of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine.
The two have decided to come together to support The Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation (ALCF). The ALCF is holding the fundraiser to bring attention to the high-altitude workers of Nepal as well as raising money for the Khumbu Climbing School.
Presentations and slide shows of both previously mentioned expeditions will be taking place, as well as a few more surpise speakers. The ALCF will also be holding a charitable silent auction. Up for bids will be a donated Grivel wood ice ax signed by all Everest summiters in attendence.
This event will take place at the Cliff Lodge in Snowbird, Utah on August 9th, with things kicking off around 6:30 pm. Tickets for this event will be $50 a piece. For information, reservations, or tickets, you may call (800) 933-2147.
This looks to be a great event with alot of big names in Everest history taking part–and besides that, it is for a great cause. If you are going to be in the Utah area the week of the 9th, why not take a sidetrip to Snowbird?
Filed Under Andrew Paterson, Animals, Apa Sherpa, Asian Trekking, Australia, Austrian, Blogger, Blogroll, British East India Company, Christine Boskoff's Body Found, Conrad Anker, David Sharpe, Davy Crockett, Donate, Earthrace, Environmental Issues, Ethiopia, Everest 1924, Everest 2007, Everest 2007 North, Everest 2007 North Ridge Route, Everest 2007 South Col, Everest Basecamp, Everest Expedition 2007, Everest History, Everest South Col, Everest South Col Route, Firefighters, Gasherbrum I, George Mallory, German, Historical, Hollywood, IMG, Internet, Mallory-Irvine, Michel Fournier, Moby Dick, Mostafa Salameh, Mt. Aconcagua, Mt. Everest, Mt. Everest History, Mt. Everest Summit, Mt. Kosciuszko, Nepal, News, News Sources, North Ridge Route, Painting, Paul Adler, Primitive Camping, RSS feed, Ray Yeritsian, Rocks, Scott Fischer, Sherpa, Sherpas, Sir Edmund Hillary, Sony Playstation, Sports, SuperSherpas, TV, Technology, Tent, The Adventurist, USA, Uncategorized, Utah, Websites, World, World Record, blog, blogging, climb, climbers, climbing community, equipment, events, extreme sports, mountaineering, ski, snowshoe, travel |
The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!
I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist. I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.
This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.
Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!
Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!
Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….
Cheers-
J. Alan Hendricks, Editor
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Mt. Everest Pioneer, Ernest Hofstetter, Dies at 95
Ernest Hofstetter, a leading member of a Swiss Expedition team that nearly summited one year before Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay made the first successful summit of Mt. Everest in 1953, has died.
Upon Sir Edmund Hillary’s successful summit the following year, Hillary sent the swiss team a note telling them that they had done half of the work for him.
The Swiss Expedition Team, that Ernest Hofstetter was a proud member of, seemingly paved the route that a year later Hillary and Norgay would use to make their summit a success.
For more on the incredible 1952 Swiss Expedition up Mt. Everest, Click Here.
Ernest Hofstetter will be missed by the climbing community world wide and our thoughts and prayers go out to his family and friends.
Filed Under Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Animals, Asian Trekking, Atlantic Ocean, Austrian, Avalanche, BBC, Bill Clinton, Blogger, Blogroll, British East India Company, David Sharpe, Davy Crockett, Earthrace, Environmental Issues, Ernest Hofstetter, Ethiopia, Everest 1952, Everest 1953, Everest 2007, Everest 2007 South Col, Everest Basecamp, Everest Expedition Companies, Everest History, Everest South Col, Everest South Col Route, Firefighters, First Ascent, Fox, German, Historical, Hollywood, Internet, Kathmandu, Kilimanjaro, Life, Lincoln Hall, Madonna, Michel Fournier, Moby Dick, Montana, Mostafa Salameh, Mt. Aconcagua, Mt. Everest, Mt. Everest History, Mt. Everest Summit, Mt. Vinson, Nation, Nepal, New Record, New York, New Zealand, News, North Ridge Route, Painting, Personal, Peter Hillary, Pirates of the Caribbean, Primitive Camping, RSS feed, Rocks, Rowing, Scott Fischer, Seven Summits, Sherpa, Sherpas, Sir Edmund Hillary, Slovakian, Sony Playstation, Swiss, Switzerland, TV, Technology, Tent, The Adventurist, The Everest Chronicles, UK, USA, Uncategorized, Websites, World, World Record, arctic, blog, blogging, breaking news, climb, climbers, climbing community, death, extreme sports, family, headlines, leadership, mountaineering, ski, sking, snowshoe, travel |
Katsusuke Yanagisawa, 71, Becomes Oldest Everest Summiter Ever!
For the second time in two years, a Japanese climber has become the oldest climber to summit Mt. Everest.
Katsusuke Yanagisawa, 71 years–2 months–and 2 days old has claimed the title after making a successful summit on May 22. Ang Tshering, President of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, has confirmed this feat. Katsasuke beat the previous record of Takao Arayama set last season when Takao was 70 years, 7 months, and 13 days old.
Katsusuke climbed nearby Cho Oyu last season, and from there could look across at Mt. Everest–that is when his new goal started to take shape.
Everest was much more difficult than I expected. It was difficult to breath, hard to walk. Even coming down the mountain was more difficult than I had thought it would be.
Katsusuke further mentioned that he was very tired and had also lost partial mobility in one of his arms during this amazing feat. He also stated that this was definatley the last High mountain that he would be climbing.
Filed Under Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Asian Trekking, Austrian, BBC, Bill Clinton, Blogger, Blogroll, British East India Company, David Sharpe, Davy Crockett, Earthrace, Ethiopia, Everest 2007, Everest 2007 North, Everest 2007 North Ridge Route, Everest 2007 South Col, Everest Basecamp, Everest Expedition 2007, Everest Expedition Companies, Everest History, Everest South Col, Firefighters, First Ascent, Hollywood, Internet, Moby Dick, Mostafa Salameh, Mt. Aconcagua, Mt. Everest, Mt. Everest History, Mt. Everest Summit, Mt. Vinson, Nepal, News, North Ridge Route, Painting, Pirates of the Caribbean, Primitive Camping, RSS feed, Rocks, Rowing, Scott Fischer, Sir Edmund Hillary, Slovakian, Sony Playstation, TV, Tent, The Adventurist, UK, USA, Uncategorized, Websites, World, World Record, blog, blogging, breaking news, climb, climbers, climbing community, headlines, mountaineering, ski, travel |
Dave Hahn, Usha Bista and How The Mainstream Media Bites a Big One…
First off, let me be the first to say that, quite frankly, I am pissed. Luckily, I am not mainstream media and can rightfully say whatever I want to on this platform–so, I am pissed.
The media has picked up the recent story of Dave Hahn’s incredible high altitude rescue and once again turned it in to the David Sharp incident–
For the last two months I have been covering the news from Mt. Everest, I have not seen one…NOT ONE story about anything to do with Everest or the great accomplishments, or the 5 or more other rescues, or the 5 deaths…NOT ONE STORY ON EVEREST until this one in the mainstream media!
What Dave Hahn rightfully done was incredible, he saved a life that probably would have died within hours..but the media has already stepped in and skewed the story.
They have seemingly jumped on the “words” of various climbers claiming that Usha Bista was left by her team on Everest, without knowing ANY of the background, or for that matter, even her name. They simply call her Usha.
It amazes me that they will report this story, skew it for the public, then cry about climbers rights, climbers etiquette…and try to arouse a reaction out of the public. This is what is wrong, not only in the climbing world, but in news reporting in general!
The facts have been stated at least two days ago by myself and a couple of other places about the circumstances surrounding this rescue mission.
Usha Bista was rescued. She was rescued by Dave Hahn. She was found alone and in dire shape. That is what is known. NOTHING ELSE at this point.
At the same time, there are two paragraphs in the piece I just got done mentioning, talking about Usha Bista. Another three about DAVID SHARP.
In a way, I have worked in mainstream media in the past as a journalist. I know how these things go. They have pieced this whole scenario on what the IMG team first reported on their Expedition Site. But they state everything as fact even though it was stated that it was not known if she was left behind and further details would not be known until the IMG team had a chance to talk to her.
One other thing I found interesting in this bit of media circus journalism was the fact that they had a comment about this situation from Dave Hahn himself, as follows:
I was very concerned because her oxygen had run out. She was virtually unresponsive, and in a precarious spot on the mountain, on a steep snowy slope,” Hahn told The Times via satellite phone from Base Camp.
This is ALL Dave had to tell the Times, I guess, about this rescue mission, as nothing else was printed in reference to this conversation. Now, I am not going “whistle-blowing” here, but do you not think that Dave would have at least talked about the rescue mission and what occured while he was on the phone? It just seems like the rest should have been included. Or was it excluded for a reason? Here is more:
She was at a similar altitude to the cave where Sharp died on May 15, 2006, after an estimated 40 climbers passed him by, most of them without making any attempt to save him. His death sparked an international controversy, with some arguing that a rescue would have cost more lives. Others, including Sir Edmund Hillary, condemned the cynicism of commercial mountaineers.
Usha, like Sharp, was apparently on the sort of barebones expedition that charges clients typically as little as $8,933 and provides them with only basic equipment.
Also like Sharp, she was too weak to move when she was found by David Hahn, a veteran American guide, and his sherpa, Phinjo Dorje, on their way down from the summit. Hahn and Phinjo Dorje decided to risk their own lives by taking her with them, even though she was only semiconscious and suffering from severe cerebral oedema, or water on the brain.
Right there is 90% of this News report!
Do Not believe what you read in the media! They Over-hype, Over-sensitize…and quite often never give you all the facts.
Alpine Climbing and climber’s ethics have taken a huge hit because of the David Sharp incident last season, perhaps in a way it was good, as this season did see quite a few rescues take place in high altitude..but at the same time not EVERY RESCUE is David Sharp! Each and every instance is different and unless you are actually on that freakin mountain you have no idea how you would react, so quit your whining and crying and tearing down of a world you know nothing about!
Mountaineering is about risk. It is about accomplishing the unachievable. A test of self.
David Sharp did die. He died in a horrible way that even to this day is still controversial in terms of what is and isn’t known…I just think that it is time we all move beyond David Sharp and quit trying to draw attention and raise opinions, cause a ruckus and deface a lifestyle all for the sake of alittle airtime.
By the way, this story was featured on FoxNEWS today and is still found on their website, but I don’t suggest you go over their to check it out or you’ll be biting a big one just like they hopefully are.
Filed Under ABC News, Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Animals, Asian Trekking, Austrian, Avalanche, BBC, Big Pig, Bill Clinton, Bill O'Reilly, Blogger, Blogroll, British East India Company, British Territories, Cairo, Climbing, David Sharp, David Sharpe, Davy Crockett, Dead Czech Climber, Double-Traverse Everest Expedtion, Earthrace, Ed Visteurs, Environment/Conservation, Environmental Issues, Ethiopia, Everest 2006, Everest 2007, Everest 2007 North, Everest 2007 North Ridge Route, Everest 2007 South Col, Everest Basecamp, Everest Expedition 2007, Everest Expedition Companies, Everest History, Everest South Col, Everest South Col Route, ExplorersWeb, Firefighters, First Ascent, Fox, Fox News, Gear, George W. Bush, German, Historical, Hollywood, IMG, Internet, Italian, Jorge Egocheaga, Kilimanjaro, Lhotse, Libor Kozak, Life, Madonna, Martin Strehl, Maxut and Vissily, Michael Jackson, Michel Fournier, Moby Dick, Mostafa Salameh, Mountain Disaster, Mountain Tragedy, Mt. Aconcagua, Mt. Everest, Mt. Everest History, Mt. Everest Summit, Mt. Kosciuszko, Mt. Vinson, Nation, National Geographic, Nepal, New Record, News, News Broadcasters, Newspaper Editors, North Ridge Route, Painting, Pemba Doma Sherpa, Personal, Pirates of the Caribbean, Politics, President, Primitive Camping, RSS feed, Rob hall, Rocks, Rowing, Russell Brice, SAR, Scott Fischer, Search and Rescue, Sergio Dalla Longa, Seven Summits, Sherpa, Sherpas, Sir Edmund Hillary, Slovakian, Sony Playstation, Sotheby's, Spanish Expedition Accident, Sports, TV, Tent, The Adventurist, Tibet, UK, USA, Uncategorized, Warhol Foundation, Websites, World, World Record, World's Youngest 7 Summiter, bible, blog, blogging, breaking news, climb, climbers, climbing community, death, extreme sports, headlines, hope, humor, leadership, mountaineering, ski, travel |
Everest 2007 Update: Two High Altitude Rescues, More Summits, and a Possible Weather Change?
Over the past day, two amazing rescues have occured at high-altitude, one each on the North and the South. One rescue is cause for concern though, as we will see:
Female Nepali Climber Abandoned at 27,500 Feet
An Unknown female climber with the Democratic Nepal Everest Expedition was seemingly left for dead by her own team near the Balcony at 27,500 feet on Everest’s South Side yesterday. At this time, this is all that is known of the actual incident other than details from the IMG Expedition Team who went up to try to make a high-altitude rescue.
Dave Hahn–who incidentally has some of the most famous High-Altitude rescues ever to his credit–went back up with both Mike and Casey from the Coleman Everest 2007 Expedition on an attempt to save this female climber. Here are the details coming from the IMG Expedition website:
Dave, Mike N., Mike H., and Casey have descended to Camp 2. On the way they helped a climber from another team, who had been abandoned at the Balcony (27,500′,) and who was in very bad shape. They managed to get her to Camp 3, where she was turned over to climbers from the Everest Expreme (medical research) team. We are proud of these guys for doing a great job on the way up, and the way down!! We’ll keep you posted!
This comes on the heels of a tragedy that occured last season when a similar incident occured with climber David Sharp…the difference this year? People went back up to help and the climber was saved. The David Sharp incident last season brought International attention to climber ethics and how these rescues were handled on Mt. Everest. Over the past few weeks, we have all witnessed some great high altitude rescues taking place…and all I can attribute that to is the memory of David Sharp…
While I am talking about IMG, today they are reporting that their final team has successfully made the summit today and will shortly be heading back to basecamp. This is great news that has seen well over 33 IMG team members make the summit this year. Congratulations!
Italian Climber Found Near Death at High Camp
An Italian Climber on North Everest was found today near the Camp at 8300 Meters. Marco, as he has simply been known thus far, was found unconscience and had apparently spent close to 48 hours lying in the snow before he was discovered by members of Alex Abramov’s 7Summits Expedition. Here is what 7Summits reported: Read more
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Sherpa Climbing Legend, Pemba Doma, Dead at 37
Some tragic news coming from Lhotse today. The Sherpa community has lost one their dear climbing legends, Pemba Doma Sherpa.
Pemba Doma Sherpa was a two time Mt. Everest Summiter. She completed her first ascent of the world’s tallest mountain on May 19, 2000, climbing up the North Ridge Route. Two years later, on May 16, 2002, she done the same once again, except from the South Col.
Upon each seperate summit, Pemba Doma Sherpa would be setting records for the Nepalese women. Her first summit from the north was the first time a Nepalese woman had made a successful attempt from this route. Consequentially, when she done it from the South Col two years later, she also became the first Nepalese woman to do it from both sides.
Pemba Doma Sherpa would also go on to claim summits at Cho Oyu in 2005, and Lhotse, just hours before her untimely death.
According to reports coming in from Lhotse as well as EverestNews and Alan Arnette, Pemba Doma Sherpa died after falling on Lhotse. She had made a successful summit on Lhotse at 11:30 and was on her descent when the fall occured. Another Sherpa climbing partner with her at the time was also injured, but sources at this time are saying that the other Sherpa is expected to survive. No name or condition was given.
Pemba Doma Sherpa’s body has been brought back down to the Lhotse Basecamp at this time and is awaiting proper burial.
The Adventurist would like to wish all of our thoughts and prayers to her family, friends, and associates as well as the community from which she is from, Solukhumbu, Nepal. She will be greatly missed.
.
Filed Under Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Animals, Asian Trekking, Austrian, BBC, Big Pig, Bill Clinton, Blogger, Blogroll, British East India Company, British Territories, Cho Oyu, Climbing, David Sharpe, Davy Crockett, Double-Traverse Everest Expedtion, Earthrace, Ed Visteurs, Environment, Environment/Conservation, Environmental Issues, Ethiopia, Everest 2007, Everest 2007 North, Everest 2007 North Ridge Route, Everest 2007 South Col, Everest Basecamp, Everest Expedition 2007, Everest Expedition Companies, Everest History, Everest South Col, Everest South Col Route, ExplorersWeb, Firefighters, First Ascent, Fox, Gear, German, Historical, Hollywood, Internet, K2, Lhotse, Michel Fournier, Moby Dick, Montana, Mostafa Salameh, Mountain Disaster, Mountain Tragedy, Mt. Aconcagua, Mt. Everest, Mt. Everest History, Mt. Everest Summit, Mt. Kosciuszko, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Vinson, National Tragedy, Nepal, New Record, News, North Ridge Route, Painting, Pemba Doma Sherpa, Personal, Pirates of the Caribbean, Primitive Camping, RSS feed, Rocks, Rowing, SAR, Scott Fischer, Search and Rescue, Sherpa, Sherpas, Sir Edmund Hillary, Sir George Everest, Slovakian, Sony Playstation, South America, Sports, Swiss, TV, Technology, Tent, The Adventurist, Tibet, UK, USA, Uncategorized, Websites, World, World Record, blog, blogging, breaking news, climb, climbers, climbing community, death, extreme sports, headlines, mountaineering, ski, snowshoe, travel |
Everest 2007 Update: Summits, Summits, and More Summits
Yesterday I posted an Interview with David Tait as well as Alan Arnette’s BIG Announcement–both of these items were pretty big news. I didn’t post my usual update yesterday with all the previously mentioned stuff going on…so guess what. That means this is going to be one HUGE update covering the events that has been going on for the last couple of days.
Before I get in to that though, I would first like to post a fair warning for anyone coming by this site from the Television Without Pity forum. There will be at least one Everest: Beyond the Limit spoiler here today. So if you don’t want to know what has happened–either skip this post, or come back tomorrow. I do appreciate all of you stopping by though.
Alright, Let’s get to it:
David Hahn Summits for a Record 9th Time
David Hahn, climbing with IMG, has successfully summited Mt. Everest for his record 9th time. This puts David as the single most productive Everest Summiter ever that is a non-sherpa climber. Don’t fear though, I am pretty sure that Apa Sherpa’s current record of 17 will be holding for quite a few more years to come.
Here is a post that Dave made to his expedition website GreatOutdoors:
Hey Great Outdoors, hey this is Dave and I’m on the summit of Mount Everest, it’s let’s see, see if I can see my watch here, it’s 6:40 now we got here 15 minutes ago. Beautiful morning. Beautiful morning. We beat the crowd, and it gave us some trouble, aggravating coming up in the dark at sunrise up the step part of the South Summit, but everybody rested on the South Summit and me and Phinjo Dorge from . . . right there and we got the jump and then had the traverse and Hillary Steps to ourselves, splendid morning, beautiful shadows, casting big shadow of Everest out to the horizon. Just beautiful, really very thrilling, and uh going to give you another call in a minute here, oh boy, it’s exciting to be here. Think I can see as far as I ever have been able to, Makalu, Kangchenchugka, Shishapangma, maybe that’s Manaslu back there, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, beautiful. Beautiful. Okay call you back in a few minutes when my fingers thaw out again.
Sounds like a great view from the top of the World’s Highest Peak, Mt. Everest.
Gavin Bate’s Near Death Experience…Summit Denied
Gavin Bate, who was trying to pull off his own successful traverse of Everest, going North to South, had to call off his climb after nearly dying at 8300 meters.
To begin to put this into perspective, David was planning on traversing Everest with his “shadow” Sherpa Pasang Tendi, using the bare minimum of essentials–a light-weight single-skin tent, a small stove and bivi sack, and whatever else he could manage to get into his backpack. Now let’s go to the details of what transpired as he attempted to reach the summit. First, from May 19: Read more
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The Adventurist: The David Tait Interview Pt. 2, Post Everest 2007
In March of this year, The Adventurist had the priviledge of interviewing David Tait before he set off to climb Mt. Everest. David’s ambitions were made very clear. He wanted to become the first person to ever “Double-Traverse” Mt. Everest in the same season.
He was well prepared. David had summited Mt. Everest previously in 2006 and was feeling in such great shape afterwards that he made a commitment to dedicate himself to the world’s first ever double-traverse of Everest in 2007, all the while donating every penny earned to the NSPCC and trying to draw some much needed attention for his latest life mission– helping children who have been the victims of abuse in his native land.
David’s attempt garnered alot of attention this season. He was a member of the much touted and often ridiculed Himex Team that is being led by Russell Brice–and who, by chance, was also being followed along by The Discovery Channel Team in hopes of filming their second season of Everest: Beyond the Limit.
Through David’s Expedition Blog this season we were given the rare opportunity to take a look at what goes on behind the scenes. David’s thoughts, concerns, and daily routine were not only followed by myself, but by thousands of people around the world. In effect, this attention has garnered David something that he has been trying to get accomplished for well over a year now–and that is helping the NSPCC.
Through David Tait’s great assault on Everest this season, we were all able to learn a little bit about ourselves. David’s journey began strong. He put himself in place to make a successful first summit and in essence, he did just that. Half of his goal was accomplished. Now all he had to do was go back down the opposite side of Mt. Everest, take a 7-10 day rest, and do it all over again from the South Col.
What surprised alot of people in the world was what happened next. Upon reaching Camp on the South, David made an announcement that his double-traverse was essentially off–
Over the next couple of days, David would go on to explain his reasonings behind this decision. He felt that Phurba Sherpa, his climbing partner this season, should be given the credit he was due. If anyone should be the “first” to do something, David noted, It should be the Sherpa who have been an integeral part of every climbing expedition on Mt. Everest.
Over the past season, David has been looked upon as perhaps a little cocky. David has been seen, as one climber put it, as the “007″ on Everest this season. Discovery Channel found in David someone who they originally thought would make for great TV..he was good-looking, well prepared, well spoken, and at times could be a bit controversial..someone the american audiences would surely fall in love with. But David had other plans…
David Tait is his own man. From the beginning David stayed focused and knew where he was going. He had goals and he stuck to them..and in a suprise move David Tait showed the World something that alot of us foresake….humility.
In David’s humility, as much as the decision was so hard for alot of us to comprehend at the time–David still became the first person to EVER traverse Everest, North to South, from his native UK as well as the first Person to ever do so from Europe.
Two new records, a successful traverse of the world’s tallest peak–and tons and tons of humility…that is David Tait.
It is with great pleasure that I can bring to you the first In-Depth Interview with David since his decision to call off his Double-Traverse. You will see, undoubtedly, how this all unfolded just days ago.
I will let you make up your own minds on who David Tait is and what he represents, as well as perhaps, show you what part of being great entails.
The Adventurist Interviews David Tait
The Adventurist: When I first interviewed you for The Adventurist back in March, you were
just preparing to head off to Mt. Everest. It has now been two and a half months and you have successfully summited Mt. Everest for a second time. How are you feeling right now and what is your general condition?David Tait: I’m feeling more than a little tired -I keep dozing off, but considering i’m still sitting in solitary confinement at the hotel Tibet in Katmandu, i’ve little else to do but read and sleep. I have started to reflect on the successes of the expedition and i’m quite content.
The Adventurist: This marks the second Expedition to Mt. Everest that you have been on with Himex. This season was a little bit different though as The Discovery Channel Film Crew was on hand to record what was going on. Can you elaborate a bit on this experience, and did it in any way influence your day to day activities and preparation?
David Tait: Yes, I found the film crew to be a nice sociable bunch, but in an ideal world I would have prefered to climb without them. This is for two reasons - firstly, I believe [my opinion only] that they became a little disappointed with the ordinaryiness of the participants, and desperately wanted something to “spice things up”…. i bored them senseless with interviews in which i only referred to the climb and my charity work. i think they hoped for a lot more than this. Secondly, in my opinion again, there was disproportionate attention given to two memebers of the expedition, one complete [literally] novice lady, and one larger than life, but ultimately offensive semi-experienced man. It was clear to me, owing to the coverage that these two got, that the essence of the program [reality tv] would fail without their presence. I found this a little depressing at times.
The Adventurist: As your summit attempt was taking shape, Russell Brice met with you and
Phurba Sherpa giving you the go-ahead to start your ascent. First, can you tell us about this meeting and second, why were you given the go-ahead so far in advance of the rest of the Himex crew?David Tait: ———-The meeting was help on the “tigerdome” in the presence once again
of the cameras. Russ, Phurba and i discussed firstly the current state of the fixed ropes, the imminent plans to fix higher, ultimately to the summit, the plans for moving or removing bodies [with permission] from the route, and finally the plans for our traverse/s - this included oxygen, and other minor logisitcs. We had the go ahead to leave earlier owing to the intention of double-traversing inside the proscribed time limit of the end of the season.The Adventurist: Upon beginning your ascent there were varied accounts of the projected
“Weather Window” for the summit. You essentially took a chance by taking off a bit
earlier than everyone else. Was this planned to beat the crowds or were there other factors involved?David Tait: The principal factor was to allow for a second return attempt - hence the early departure. The weather looked a little didgy when we left abc, but in the end it was ideal. We realized there would likely be crowds, but as we both move very fast, we were confident we could outpace most - as we manged.
The Adventurist: Once you had finally made your successful summit from the North and began to head down the South, did you have any idea that you would be fixing ropes and breaking trail on your descent? Also, for the uninitiated, can you explain what you had to do and the toll that it eventually took?
David Tait: Yes, we were aware that the south-side sherpas had only fixed rope to the “balcony”. However, as both of us hadn’t seen the south-side before, we had no real idea where the balcony was, or how hard it would be to reach. We set off from the summit somewhat blind, moving very slowly and carefully, digging footholds, one at a time, so that the snow wouldn’t mini-avalanche,taking one of us with it. We were joined together by 25 m of rope for safety, and belay-relayed ourselves along the ridge to the Hilary
step. Somehow my oxygen got turned off by hitting the wall, and I thought I was suffocating - I dont know how. Phurba checked for me and turned it back on. That was a weird 10 mins. We were also carrying 150m of rope for possible permanent fixing. We fixed line from the Hillary step, across and up to the south summit - this took an age owing to the need to creep slowly across the ridge-line, cutting footholds. From the south summit to the balcony was
fairly routine, but with quite deep shifting snow. Once at the balcony we discovered the fixed rope….it took us from 6.30 until 11 am approx. to
negotiate the distance from the summit to the balcony….many times longer than it would have done under normal circumstances.The Adventurist: In the beginning of this journey, your goal was to “Double-Traverse” the
world’s highest mountain, but after your first successful summit and crossing over to the South you changed your mind. Can you take us through this process and the reasonings behind your change of mind?David Tait: The reasons I changed my mind are twofold. Firstly, and most importantly, as I mentioned on my site, the only way I was personally going to claim “first to double traverse” was if i asked a superior climber and human being [Phurba] to effectively “step-aside” and let me ” win”. This has been gnawing away at me for months. Having watched Phurba fix ropes to the
summit on April 30th, and then descend to bc in 6 hours, i knew in my heart that he deserved all plaudits. He is an extrordinary chap, honest,
generous, patient and modest to a point that the Dalai Lama could learn things from him. There was no way, especially in the context of my charity work, that I could pretend to supercede him.
The second thing, closely connected was that I was also very tired from the descent - much more than I had anticipated. In the context of not wanting to usurp Phurba, I knew that there was little if any point in forcing my way over this mountain yet again, to come in second. I also feel strongly that such “titles” are there for the sherpas to take and legitimately own….. they
are streets ahead of ALL westerners, so I contented myself with “the first Brit” or if i’m lucky ” the first westerner” to traverse north-south.[ maybe you could help me with a clearer verification? I'd be grateful]. I’ve been told by many many informed people that im the first brit, but id like to know for dead-sure?The Adventurist: How different was this experience compared to your first successful summit? Was it easier or harder?
David Tait: Harder - only in as much as I underestimated the south side descent…. 17 hours of arm-wrapping in both snow-storms and blazing sun - in a down suit….
The Adventurist: Looking back, is there anything you would have done differently on this
Expedition, or did everything pretty much go as planned?David Tait: Everything went better than planned - I managed to summit/traverse after
only 35 days of acclimatization, and the summit day climb was relatively easy…I was suprised.The Adventurist: The NSPCC, your charity that you were doing this for, has been able to gain
alot of publicity through yourself and The Discovery Film Team. If you had a few words for these kids you are trying to help, what would you say?David Tait: For the abused kids out there : you have a choice, as I once did. Your life can go south or it can go north - the choice is up to you. Stop blaming others and focus on yourself. I carried my secrets for 30 years - a wasted thirty years. let things go, and start climbing life.
The Adventurist: Well, Once again David, I will congratulate you on a great climb and a successful second Mt. Everest summit! It has been a pleasure to follow along with you on this fantastic journey and we are all looking forward to hearing more from you soon. Hope your recovery goes well.. I am sure Vanessa can’t wait to see you!! Now hurry Home…Safely!
Bonus Questions
The Adventurist: Since this is now over, do you think you will ever try Everest again?
David Tait: Maybe, if my son or daughter wanted company etc…. but not for
any other reason.The Adventurist: In your opinion, what website brings the best “Adventure” coverage in
the world? This may or may not be published depending on answer. Ha,ha.David Tait: You definately have a great site - i’m honestly only familiar with you and Ex-web. Yours is far more interesting owing to the manner in which you apparently obtain your info. You are accurate, Ex-web isnt….dt
Editor’s Note: At this time, David Tait has been confirmed as being the first person from the UK to make a successful Traverse of Mt. Everest.
I would also like to make a point to say that the opinions and viewpoints represented on The Adventurist are not neccessarily those of this site. In the context of representing all viewpoints in the most accurate fashion, nothing has been left out, and except for a couple of minor spelling changes..everything is being presented as it was.
If you are interested in reading David’s first interview, just days before he began this incredible journey in March, you may do so by clicking HERE.
And Lastly, David Tait is currently in Kathmandu awaiting the arrival of his equipment so that he may leave for home. David has mentioned that there just may be a book in the works about his two successful summits of Mt. Everest as well his work with the NSPCC…We will keep our eyes out for this project and I will bring more to you when I find out further.
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