American Climber Dies Enroute to Shisha Pangma

The fall Himalayan season has just kicked off and already, we are hearing reports that an American climber has died. 

Ray Yeritsian, originally from Armenia-but moved to the States in 1991–died while enroute to Shisha Pangma.  He was set to climb Shisha with an expedition team from Asian Trekking.

From ExplorersWeb:

The team was supposed to start out on 11th of September. Due to landslide, the expedition was delayed and planned to reach base camp on September 15. But according to Doctors, Ray suffered a ruptured artery in Nyalam.

Ray was an avid climber.  He had taken on many of the World’s top peaks including successful summits of Aconcagua and Denali and a failed attempt on Mt. Everest in 2000.

Asian Trekking is reporting that Ray’s body is enroute to the United States on request from the family.

Our thoughts and Prayers go out to Ray and his family and friends.

An Adventurist Editorial: The Stephen Fossett Debates

We should have all seen this one coming from a mile away–

Going into days 5 and 6 for the ongoing search of legendary adventurer Steven Fossett, people are starting to take their focus off of the search and more onto the debates surrounding these types of events when they occur–

First it began with how great of an adventurer Steven Fossett is.  Over the past few days this focus has slowly moved to the motives of a “Risk-Taker” and if Stephen Fossett’s family should be charged for the search currently taking place.

Both of these items are highly debatable and both of them generally always surround a high profile search, especially if the person involved was also a part of anything that has a certain risk-factor to it or has been the focus of media attention in the past.

Personally, I began taking notice of these debates around December of last year when three climbers became lost on Mt. Hood.  The ensuing search, that garnered massive media coverage, soon became a debate for a cause. 

It may be the cause of the general media’s focus to always provide something new to a highly viewed (and rated) story.  Running out of new leads, they hop back on the bus and get everyone involved in raging debates that once again spark interest to previous stories of the same general nature.

Two questions always emerge:  Should the families of the person being searched for have to pay for this service?  And secondly–the risk involved.  How could they do this to their families and loved ones?  What is it about risk that triggers these people to always endanger their lives? Read more

EverestNews Inciting Controversy with Editorial and a Response by The Adventurist

I recently headed over to EverestNews to check out what was going on at their site.  Needless to say, I was quite surprised by a small editorial piece they are currently featuring titled Everest Rumors, Lies, and Ridiculous Stories.

This is based on a few reports that this editorial is claiming as false.  First off, it denies an increase in fees leveled by the Chinese Government this past season on Everest.  It then goes into detail about many sites broadcasting rumors and lies, specifically mentioning the possible closing of the North side of Everest by the Chinese for the forthcoming 2008 Olympics.

EverestNews goes on the record as saying Everest’s North side will be open to climbers in the coming 2008 season and the number of climbing permits given will not be limited in scope due to the 2008 Olympics.  They also go on record as saying that the rumors of China trying to negotiate the closure of Mt. Everest’s South side, via Nepal, is also completely false.

EverestNews Claims the Following Regarding Fees:

Stories that the fees in China were increased several times over were also spread, FALSE again. Why? Guides did raise fees which one would assume resulted in much higher profits… For most independents and operators the Chinese took a minor fee increase.. One must wonder what is the agenda here? To get traffic to web sites? To get published in rags? To help raise profits for some? What???

EverestNews is crediting CTMA and CMA as being two of the reliable sources that this information is coming from:

The CTMA and CMA appear to be getting pissed off by all these rumors, lies and ridiculous stories… Including false stories about climbers, who grow in number year by year… This will probably result in changes from the Chinese many of us might not like….

Last year’s “High-Altitude Free Tibet Protest on Mount Everest!” which was a “set up” where Americans went to China to get arrested and were successful is expected also to cause more tension for the Chinese and climbers which combined with these ridiculous stories will result in tougher standards on entering for 2008….

Now a Few Words From The Adventurist

First off, the CMA respectively refers to the Chinese Mountaineering Association and the CTMA refers to the China Tibet Mountaineering Association.  Now that we know that all of this information is respectively coming from China we may make a few comments.

EverestNews is based out of Granville, Ohio–The United States.  Why would such a site be bowing down to a communist regime in regards to it’s editorials? 

If you go back and read the article as it is printed on the site, you can plainly see that this little bit of marketing by the two forementioned climbing associations in China is nothing more than Chinese Propoganda.  Yes, they might be pissed off at the press, but you do have to remember that China is hosting the upcoming 2008 Olympics and with all of the recent bad publicity regarding China of late, it is no wonder that they would put out a piece questioning the recent rash of bad publicity.

Regarding the climbing fees–on more than one occassion this past year, climbers were told, once they got to China, that their fees would be anywhere from $1000-$3,000 more than what was quoted before they left for the climb.  This information is documented in the climber’s expedition blogs rather substantially.  This did not just happen to US climbers, but even some expeditions from the Philipines and so forth.  This is documented and this information that EverestNews has released bears no weight.  Tell us the sources and give us the figures–until the proof is out there on such matters, it will remain the same.  Too many climbers were claiming the same problem:  A rise in climbing fees after they arrived to get their liscence, which was unmerited beforehand.

As far as the Chinese trying to close the North or the South sides of Mt. Everest for next season.  This news, as I myself have also mentioned, has come not only from the United States press, but also the Press organizations from around the world, including Nepal.  It is known that the Nepali Government was approached with an offer to shut off the South side as well…even though, this offer by the Chinese could have fallen through in the last few days.

Next, we come to a couple of possible threats handed out by the CMA and the CTMA about possible changes taking place over the 2008 Everest season.  These changes are in reference to the “One World-Free Tibet Protest” that took place this year, as well as the Chinese becoming “pissed off” at the stories and rumors coming from Mt. Everest.  They claim this protest was a simple “set-up” to get the organization holding the protest arrested, and in a sense..free publicity.  That may very well be the case, but in another note, the “Free Tibet” campaign has been going on for well over 50 years now.  Each year new protests are enacted to bring the Chinese occupation of Tibet to the limelight.  It just so happens that this years protest took place while China was trying to do their initial Olympic Torch training run to the top of Mt. Everest.

What the CMA and the CTMA are essentially doing is giving themselves an excuse to deny liscences to climbers in the upcoming 2008 season.  They will base this denial on the rumors and lies of the foreign nations trying to take part in next years Everest season, as well as political turmoil of not knowing exactly what people are planning on doing.

While the supposed facts being represented on EverestNews merit no basis, it boggles my mind that an American Company such as EverestNews has seemingly given the Chinese Government an outlet for their remarks–given the Chinese’s past record.

Anyone remember Nangpa La?  Last year the Chinese military opened fire on a group of people trying to cross from Tibet to Nepal–essentially political refugees trying to leave a country they despised–some were shot in the open, in front of 60 or so climbers–including a nun who was mortally shot and killed.  After this incident, the Chinese Military seemingly invaded the ABC camp and essentially looked things over and waited.  They had captured some 30 odd children, women, and men, and taken them into custody as well.

Many people are scared of speaking out against the Chinese.  The guides could very easily lose their bid to attempt Everest and other peaks in the Chinese Himalayas if they don’t keep their mouths shut about such incidents when they do take place.  China has essentially used political power and intimidation factors to keep the “real” stories on Everest and other peaks silent.

Nangpa La was real.  Photos confirm the merciless killings.  Still climbers involved in the incident from around the world are reluctant to speak out against the Chinese.

In 2007 the Chinese Basecamp at Everest featured a security fence and armed guards.  N0 one was allowed around their encampment and secrecy was held as an asset.  At one point a couple of climbers got stranded high on Everest and the Chinese refused to take part in any kind of search and rescue efforts.  This should clue you in a bit on their priorities.  China is about China.  They protect through armed tactics and intimidation. 

So why would EverestNews take a stand and essentially side with them by posting this very Pro-China editorial?  The editorial even fails to mention who the writer was.  I feel the reason may be as simple as the 2008 Olympics.  They are positioning themselves to be “the source” of news and info coming out of China.  On the otherhand, by taking such matters and putting themselves in the public light with such a controversial move, I can not see how this will benefit them at all.  They may get the news coming from China, but at the same time they are alienating the climbers from around the world that understand the tactics China uses in an effort to “control”.

EverestNews makes the following question regarding the rumors, lies, and deceptions and the press that has put them out.

One must wonder what is the agenda here? To get traffic to web sites? To get published in rags? To help raise profits for some? What???

I am only speaking for myself at this time.  I have no advertisers.  I have no site sponsors.  Trying to draw traffic to a site such as this one has no meaning.  It does not benefit me in the slightest.  On the contrary, by putting up an editorial that questions the basis of information regarding Everest and other mountains–by saying they are lies, rumors, and so forth–we do need to question these intentions–EverestNews is essentially questioning the same people that they get all of their information from–The climbing expedition blogs.  They post no news that isn’t spoken first-hand from the Expeditions themselves on their own sites–and they do so 90% of the time word for word.  So who is to blame for the lies, rumors, and so forth?  Rather than calling out people that you yourselves rely on for information–perhaps you should look at yourselves.  This is a weak and futile attempt at bringing in viewers that already question your standards in the field.  China or no China, by printing the threats and “control” tactics, you are becoming nothing more than one of the many puppets you are trying to speak out against.  Just something to think about.

Charles Duerig, 50, Avid Climber for 30 Years, Falls to Death in California–UPDATED

Sad news coming from WTAE Channel 4 out of Pittsburgh today.  Charles Duerig, while climbing with his brother in California, slipped in rainy conditions and fell to his death yesterday.  His family is from the Pittsburgh area.

Duerig had been an avid climber in the United States and Europe for over 30 years.

For more on this sad story, head on over to the WTAE-4 Website.  I will bring you more as I find out.

UPDATE–08/31/07–1:35 pm

At this time it is being reported  in the SummitPost Forum that Mr. Duerig had fallen in the vincinty of Mt. Hamilton, a 14,000 foot peak near Mt. Whitney in the Sierra.  This accident is being reported as happening this past Sunday, but has just hit the waves.  Mr. Duerig was a well known marathon runner and climber, hailing from Castro Valley.

The 50-year-old Duerig was climbing the mountain with a friend Sunday when the two became separated.

After the friend reported Duerig missing, searchers found his body at the bottom of a canyon at the 12,500-foot level.

Authorities believe he fell 100 feet after trying to anchor himself to a rock, and probably died immediately.

Duerig was an avid climber who had led numerous rock climbs in Yosemite and elsewhere in the Sierra, as well as in Canada and on mountains in Pennsylvania, New York and West Virginia

Was just reading the California wires and came across this. My condolences to his family and friends.

Once again, this was featured over at the SummitPost forum where there continues to be new information emerging.

Mr. Duerig, as posted by another reader, had recently taken part in the Skyline 50k.

Let’s all keep Charles’ family, friends, and associates in our thoughts and prayers.

2006 Mt. Hood Tragedy Update: Equipment Stash Found, July 2007 Search Results and More…

It has now been eight months since three climbers went missing on Mt. Hood.  At this time we all know that the body of Kelly James had been discovered inside a snowcave back in December.  What happened to the other two climbers?  Brian Hall and Jerry Cooke were never found.

Many people have been stopping by here still wondering about the other two climbers.  I get comments posted on a weekly basis asking me if the other two had been found as yet.

With the national media attention that this particular incident generated, I can kind of see why this is still a very big item in people’s minds.  Anytime there is a story without a conclusion, it leads to more questions than answers.  Rather than email each individual person that asks me what happened, I have decided to make this update. Read more

The Older You Are, The Harder it Gets….

No, we’re not talking about Viagra.  In a recent study conducted by a University of Washington biology professor, the effects of age on Mt. Everest  seem to play a pivotal role in overall survival.

The study was conducted to learn the effects of age and to perhaps see if condition or experience played a bigger role in overall success on the world’s highest mountain.  The team of researchers studied 2,200 climbers who atempted to climb Mt. Everest between 1990 and 2005.

This study revealed that a person’s overall success on Everest drastically decreased once the person hit 60 years old.  Before 60, your chances of making a successful summit is close to 31 percent, after 60, that number drops to 13 percent.

The overall risk of dying on Mt. Everest went up as well–1.5 percent compared to 5 percent of those 60 and older.

Also, if you indeed reached the summit of the world’s highest peak, 2.2 percent would die compared to 25% of those 60 and older, on the descent.

This study was recently published Online in the Aug. 15 issue of Biology Letters.

The Adventurist Interview: Hubert A. Allen, Author of Mt. Hood: The Deep Blue Zone

The Adventurist Interview with Hubert A. Allen

Author of Mount Hood The Deep Blue Zone: Story of the 2006 Climbing Tragedy

First off Mr. Allen, It is a pleasure to have you here at The Adventurist. The events surrounding the tragedy in December of 2006 still lingers deep in quite a few minds. Why do you think that this event, first off, triggered such a huge media reaction, and secondly, why has that attention seemed to continue clear up through today?

HA: Early in December of 2006 the media had already grabbed onto the case of the Lee family lost in the Oregon wilderness. It had a tragic end when the father, who tried to walk out, was found dead, apparently the victim of hypothermia and the mother and children were rescued in the vehicle they stayed with - 13 days out. Ironically CNN, for example, ran the final wrap-up story of the Lees just as the Mount Hood story broke. Mount Hood is several steps up in drama from a mud road in the forest. Basically, it on-upped the last incident at just the right moment. Unfortunately, as of this interview, they still have not recovered the bodies of the two other climbers. There is no closure. I am hoping by the end of summer the families will have their loved ones back and this physical aspect of closure will be fulfilled.

Much has been said about Brian Hall, Jerry Cooke, and Kelly James perhaps not being as prepared as they should have been. To myself though, these guys were experienced. They had climbed many times before together–they were looking for a fast ascent, so of course they carried as little as possible. They left behind notes, both at the rangers station as well as their vehicles and had a cell phone. How do you feel, being a mountain climber yourself, about their preparation?

HA: One important form of preparation is gaining knowledge of the mountain, the climb and conditions as they are. None of the three men had been on Mount Hood before. By the very timing of their effort, dedicating just a long weekend away from homes in New York and Texas to climb this 11,239 foot Mount Hood in December, they gave themselves no time to learn about the mountain. They did not adequately acclimatize - going from sea level to summit in a little over 48 hours. This is failing to prepare the body for a dangerously fast change in elevation - say 11,239 feet of elevation change in 48 hours My personal opinion is that they underestimated the mountain, the effort, and the climb itself. I now believe that the climbers brought with them all the gear needed to succeed on the mountain. However, through a series of decisions, they ended-up jettisoning most of the key survival gear prior to actually setting foot onto the North Face. The recent (July 2007) recovery of a cache of their equipment at a campsite above the Tilly Jane Hut but below the Eliot Glacier suggests they were in possession of a fairly extensive gear supply. However, when Kelly James was recovered he was far too lightly dressed for the conditions encountered. They really believed in the super-fast ascent and that they would be spending a mere matter of hours in ascent and descent of 11,239 foot Mount Hood.

Could they have done anything different that could have possibly saved their lives? Read more

Filed Under Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Blogger, Blogroll, Books, Brian Hall, Hubert A. Allan Jr., Hubert A. Allen, Internet, Interview, Jerry Cooke, Kelly James, Mountain Climbing, Mountain Disaster, Mountain Tragedy, Mt. Hood, Mt. Hood 2006, Mt. Hood Tragedy, Mt. Hood: The Deep Blue Zone, National Tragedy, RSS feed, SAR, Search and Rescue, Technology, The Adventurist, Tragedy, USA, Websites, World, blog, blogging, climb, climbers, climbing community, death, equipment, mountaineering, snowshoe |  

New Book Released on 2006 Mt. Hood Tragedy

 

In December of 2006 The Adventurist began to cover a story of three climbers who had become stranded near the summit of Mt. Hood.  A few days later, this event became a media blitz. 

Hope for the successful rescue of Brian Hall, Jerry Cooke, and Kelly James soon dimminished as the first body was discovered.  In the proceeding days this tragic event would ignite controversy in the climbing community as well as the world at large, and eventually would become the backbone for a piece of legislation in Utah to require climbers to wear tracking beakons while going up Mt. Hood.

A new book has been published regarding this recent tragedy.  Mt. Hood:  The Deep Blue Zone takes a look at these events as they unfolded and captured a nation’s attention.  The Book’s author Hubert Allan, Jr. looks at this tragedy, the members involved, and perhaps what exactly took place high up on the slope of Mt. Hood. 

In the coming week, The Adventurist will have the pleasure of interviewing Mr. Hubert Allan, Jr. regarding this unfortunate event, as well as his latest book, for this site.  First, though, I would like to give you a bit more information on Mt. Hood:  The Deep Blue Zone from Amazon.com.

Here is what is mentioned on Amazon.com:

Book Description:

America’s most riveting mountain search occurred in December 2006 on Mount Hood in Oregon, USA. This book is not only exhaustively researched but includes estimated weather data for the summit deemed so useful that it was adopted into many of the investigation reports. What did happen to those three climbers? Get “The Deep Blue Zone” now on your shelves and find out!

Amazon does make a note that they only have 5 copies of this book left in stock, but coming from this review of Mr. Allan’s book, you can probably see why:

Written by experienced winter mountain climber Hubert A. Allen Jr., Mount Hood The Deep Blue Zone: Story of the 2006 Climbing Tragedy is a reconstruction of what possibly happened to three climbers who became lost on Oregon’s Mount Hood in 2006. A handful of black-and-white photographs illustrate this day-by-day reconstruction, pieced together from both primary and secondary sources. Appendices consisting of data for weather conditions on Mount Hood as well as a climbing glossary round out this thoughtful, detailed dissection of a recent tragedy. “Citizens, most of them non-climbers, debated the very premise of winter climbing. Non-climbers argued about how selfish it was for the three men to go off and climb what looked like an absurd project. But these men had no death wish. Indeed, there are indications that this group was working their way up to an attempt on Mount Everest.” Recommended reading for any practicing or would-be mountain climber.

This book has a price of $16.29 and is available in hardback only, at this time. 

Many of you have come by my site for information regarding this tragic event.  The posts I made concerning the Mt. Hood Tragedy are still listed in my Top Ten posts every month, and it seems that the more time that goes by, the more interest that is generated.  As far as I know, this is the first account of this tragedy to be published.  Should be a very interesting read and hopefully shed more light on this sad and controversial subject for all of us.

Please stay tuned in the coming week to The Adventurist, as I will be bringing you this exclusive interview with the Author of Mt. Hood:  The Deep Blue Zone, Mr. Hubert. A. Allan, Jr.

Filed Under Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Blogger, Blogroll, Brian Hall, December 2006, Environment, Environmental Issues, Hubert A. Allan Jr., Internet, Jerry Cooke, Kelly James, Mountain Disaster, Mountain Tragedy, Mt. Hood, Mt. Hood 2006, Mt. Hood Tragedy, Mt. Hood: The Deep Blue Zone, Nation, National Tragedy, News, RSS feed, SAR, Search and Rescue, TV, Technology, The Adventurist, USA, Uncategorized, Utah, Websites, World, blog, blogging, climb, climbers, climbing community, death, equipment, extreme sports, family, headlines, hope, mountaineering, taxpayers |  

Official Michael Reardon Memorial Set For August 18, 2007

A special service to celebrate the life of Michael Reardon, who tragically disappeared off the coast of Ireland two weeks ago, will be held on August 18, 2007.

This special service will be taking place at Malibu Creek State Park located 4 miles south of highway 101 on Las Virgenes/Malibu Canyon Road, 25 miles from downtown Los Angeles, California.

This will be the “Official” Memorial and Service for Michael Reardon.  Everyone is invited, but guests are being asked by the family to dress very casually in jeans or shorts and sneakers or flip-flops, Michael’s preferred style of dress.

Marci and Nicki, Michael’s wife and daughter, will be attending this special ceremony, as will many family members and friends. 

If you can attend to show your support for this great family in these trying times, please make plans for August 18.

As far as I know, this is the first report of this Memorial Service anywhere else in the world, and as such, it is requested that you pass this information along as far and wide as you possibly can.  This family deserves this special time and the more people involved, the better.  Michael touched alot of lives through his own.  His number 1 love in life was not climbing, but his family.  It is time to show them all the appreciation–

Filed Under Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Blogger, Blogroll, Michael Reardon, Michael Reardon Memorial Service, blog, blogging, breaking news, climb, climbers, climbing community, death |  

Tragedy on Mont Blanc: Four Climbers Die, Five Others Rescued

Tragedy has struck Mont Blanc in the French Alps.  Four climbers have died after getting lost on the 15, 771 foot mountain.  The climbers had died due to cold weather and exhaustion.

The climbers included one Brit, and women from New Zealand, France, and Chili.  Their bodies were found around the 13, 120 foot mark of Mont Blanc.

The group had no tent and failed to dig a hole to protect themselves from 120 km/h winds and falling snow,” said Olivier Kim of the regional police force.

Just a day prior, 5 climbers were rescued near the summit after similarly succumbing to the high winds and cold.

None of the climbers involved in these incidents have been mentioned by name as yet. 

Mont Blonc is the highest peak in the Alps.  It has been mentioned that when Mont Blanc was first summited in 1786 by Jacquez Balmot and Dr. Michel Paccard–that the beginning of modern mountaineering had begun.  Mont Blanc is annually summited today by well over 20,000 people a year and is seemingly refered to as an “easy” mountain.

Filed Under Adventure, Adventure Blogs, Alps, Blogger, Blogroll, Internet, Life, Mont Blanc, Mont Blanc Tragedy, Mountain Disaster, Mountain Tragedy, News, RSS feed, SAR, Search and Rescue, Sports, TV, Technology, The Adventurist, Trekking, UK, USA, Uncategorized, Websites, World, blog, blogging, breaking news, climb, climbers, climbing community, death, extreme sports, family, headlines, hope, mountaineering, travel |  

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