Dispatch From Denali: Climber Chimes In With More Details On Recent Deaths On Denali

Hello, We are people with maybe the most information on Pungas Baruno’s death and a little more on Mr. Nasti’s. We just descended from Denali after summiting on the evening of July 8th. First, we were part of AMS expedition that was at high camp (17,200′) on night of July 7th getting ready for summit attempt the next day. We heard the frantic shouts of “help” coming from the trail that was - as noted - very close nearby to camp, visually. Our guides went to try to resuscitate the young man but it was obviously too late. He was well taken care of in the snow off the trail both with wands and pickets and covered respectfully with snow, as we had to go past the next day on our summit attempt (we were all successful, 6 clients and 2 guides on a bluebird day.). I don’t know anything about the headache, but we can say that the wind was howling, started up that early evening and the cold and wind may have contributed. Also, we were at ABC 14,200 when the reports came in for Mr Nasti.

I am also 51 with two grown sons and member of 7 continents club (marathons on 7 continents) and Denali was #5 of 7 for 7 summits. There is not really a place where you use ice axes between the top of Pig Hill and the summit ridge and summit itself which is about 500′ of exposed ridge - except as a stick and balance point between falling off each side. My and our heart goes out to both families and we all on our trip were respectful of the mountain and the people lost before us, and how lucky we were to summit and return safely. (Mitch - from Anchorage on way home, comments welcome on own blog site as well).

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Editor’s Note: This dispatch is coming in from a response to a recent article that I posted on the recent deaths of Pungas Tri Baruno and James Nasti on Denali. Mitch Lewis, who has sent in this special report, is currently attempting the 7 summits-climbing the highest summit on all 7 continents. Mitch has also achieved the 7 continents marathon challenge. He was climbing with Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS) on Denali. If you are curious as to some of the details Mr. Lewis is describing, be sure to check out my previous article on these incidents.

Right now there seems to be a bit of confusion going on in the Press, as far as details are concerned. It has been reported publicly that Pungas Tri Baruno may have complained of a headache before collapsing. This fact has not been attributed to a source at this time, but was published publicly on the Jakarta Post, an Indonesian Newspaper.

In regards to Mr. Nasti’s death on Denali, it has been suggested that Mr. Nasti collapsed suddenly while trying to climb with his ice ax. From all sources I have received and read, Mr. Nasti was more than likely resting on the ax when he collapsed, rather than climbing. Mr. Nasti died on the summit of Denali on July 4th. Mr. Nasti was buried near the summit, while Pungas Tri Baruno’s body is expected to be retrieved and analyzed for a cause of death. Let’s keep both of the climber’s families in our thoughts and prayers.

I want to personally thank Mr. Lewis for sharing his first-hand account of what he witnessed while he was on Denali this past week. You may check out Mr. Lewis’ own climbing and expedition website by visiting http://www.climbingandrunning.com. If you were climbing and in the area of either incident, feel free to contact me by through the contact page found at the top of this site.

Jason A. Hendricks, Editor

The Adventurist

Photo courtesy of Unhindered by Talent on Flicker using a CC license.

Pungas Tri Baruno Dies On Denali, Second Death In One Week On America’s Highest Peak

Pungas Tri Baruno, a climber from Indonesia, has died while descending from the summit of Denali (Mt. McKinley). Pungas Tri Baruno’s death is the second death this week on North America’s highest peak.

Pungas Tri Baruno had apparently topped out on Denali and was in the process of descending to one of the higher camps. He had complained of a headache while descending and collapsed less than half a kilometer from the summit. Several guides did attempt to revive Baruno, but their efforts were unsuccessful.

From The Jakarta Post:

He collapsed about half a kilometer from the summit — about 5,000 meters above sea level — after complaining of a headache. Several hiking guides tried revive him, but it was already too late.

( Editor’s Note:  This quote has been added to clear up any thoughts that I made up the the part about the headache.  See comments below.  If it has, in fact been misreported in the press, it is on their part, and not my own.  I only report what I read and 99% of the time I do have the source.  Feel free to click the article and read it for yourself.)

Baruno’s death on Denali represents the second climber death this week. This past Friday, climber James Nasti collapsed on the summit. Nasti’s death resulted in a high-altitude burial as a body recovery was deemed to risky in the area. Baruno’s body is currently being recovered, will undergo some scientific testing, then be shipped back to his native homeland of Indonesia.

Many people have been stopping by and emailing me on this latest incident–the second death on Denali in a week. I was holding off on posting about Baruno until I was certain that his family had been contacted in regards to this situation. When it first occured, there was not a whole lot of information coming out. I do have a few more facts about Pungas Tri Baruno at this time, as well as more information on the death of James Nasti.

Read more

Alpine Ascents Climber Dies On Denali (Mt. McKinley) Summit

Peter Hillary Summits Denali, Completes Seven Summits, Dedicates Denali To Sir Hillary

EverestNews is reporting that Sir Edmund Hillary’s son, Peter Hillary, has just finished completing his bid for the highest summit on each of the seven continents. Peter Hillary also dedicated his last summit, Denali/Mt. McKinley, to his late father, Sir Edmund Hillary, who passed away earlier this year.

From Peter Hillary on EverestNews:

After the last six months of incredible memorials and farewells to my father it provided me with an opportunity to go back to where it all started: in the mountains that inspired us both. Completing the Seven Summits has been my salute to my father.

Peter Hillary’s latest summit came at 4am on June 17th in minus 40 degree temperatures and 30 knot winds.  Denali, known for it’s harsh changes of weather patterns, represents the highest peak in North America.

Peter Hillary is no stranger to adventure.  Many of you have probably heard the stories of how his late father, Sir Edmund Hillary, was the first to summit Mt. Everest, along with Tenzing Norgay, but most are probably not familiar with Peter.  Peter’s accomplishments include forging a new route to the South pole, summiting Mt. Everest TWICE…and completing the first traverse across the Himalayan mountains.  He can now add climber of the Seven Summits to his resume.

Peter Hillary has been working really hard to accomplish this goal and get it dedicated to his father, who died just 6 months ago.  Nice to see things work out.  Congrats, Peter!

When Technology Springs A Leak

We have all heard about the benefits of carrying a PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) with us while we are out in the wilds, but what happens when the latest in technology malfunctions?

Steve Howe, who is on an expedition to Denali (and an editor for Backpacker magazine) recently discovered what happens when the latest in high-tech rescue apparatuses malfunctions.  For some reason, his SPOT–Satellite Personal Tracker System sent a distress signal to his Editor and wife.  It reported that he needed an immediate Medical Evac from 17,000 Ft on Denali.

As these things would play out, Steve’s Editor, and his wife, contacted the local National Park Warden’s office and alerted them that Steve was in trouble.  A brief rescue attempt ensued.  Luckily some local Rangers had been making a summit bid and were in the area and quickly found Steve.  He said he had no idea that the signal was sent, but everyone was glad to know he was safe.

There is a great review over on The Pulse, one of Backpacker Magazine’s blogs, that gives a minute by minute account of what happened and the actions taken.  It is comforting to know that within three minutes of the call to Denali National Park, that rescuers were already planning for Steve’s eventual rescue.  What is a bit less comforting is that Steve’s wife thought he was dying, and rescue workers almost enacted a huge attempt to bring Steve down, for a signal he never sent.

Hopefully this does not happen often in the wild.  I know the SPOT system is getting rave reviews and quite a bit of press.  They are also one of the main sponsors for this year’s Primal Quest Adventure Race, being held towards the end of this month.  It will be interesting to see what Steve Howe’s reaction is to this story once he gets back to blogging for The Pulse, but I guess until then we will all have to wait and hope that our own PLB system is up to par.  I am sure this is a rare occurence and SPOT will be doing what it can to fix this problem with Steve.  Let’s hope it doesn’t happen again.

Denali Update: Search for Two Missing Japanese Climbers Suspended

The search for two Japanese climbers, who were attempting to summit Denali (Mt. McKinley) by way of the Cassin Ridge Route has been suspended. Authorities involved in the search and rescue efforts have put all aerial searches on hold, saying that the area has been fully combed from both the air and the trail, for the two climbers without any luck.

In my last report, I mentioned that the two climbers’ names had not been released to the public, pending their families being notified. This has taken place. The two missing climbers are now being identified as Tatsuro Yamada (27) and Yuto Inoue (24). Both had been climbing with a well-known group of mountaineers, known simply as the “Giri-Giri Boys”.

The Alpinist takes a pretty good look at the background of this rescue attempt, as well as some of the things that rescuers have been able to determine about the missing climbers. One of the biggest things of note was the lack of supplies for an extended journey in the mountains. Both climbers had taken up lightweight gear and only enough food and water for 4-5 days. They failed to meet up with the rest of their group on May 22, and could have actually been missing since May 10th, the date that had set to take off on their own journey to the top of Denali.

From the Alpinist:

In light of their limited supplies and the subzero temperatures, search managers consider that survival is outside the window of possibility. Observers have thoroughly searched the route and surrounding areas to the degree that if the climbers were visible on the surface, there is a high probability they would have been discovered.

It has been a tough couple of weeks in the world of mountain climbing.  First, Inaki Ochoa de Olza on Annapurna, and now these two.  Let’s hope that these two climbers can eventually be found, and at least give their families some peace of mind.  Our thoughts are with them today.

Two Japanese Climbers Missing On Denali

Two Japanese climbers have went missing on Denali. Bear with me here, I am having to piece this one together from two different sources.

From ABC-of-Mountaineering:

Denali National Park and Preserve spokeswoman Maureen McLaughlin refused to name the missing climbers but said both are in their mid-20s, experienced climbers, and that one of them even spent time in the Alaska Range in 2006 and 2007. The two men, who were last seen on May 9 when preparing for their climb, were expected to return on Thursday, May 22.

Obviously, the climbers never returned. This article is pretty short, but gives us a synopsis of what has taken place. It also mentions that bad weather has plagued the SAR (Search and Rescue) efforts. The two men were known to be climbing near the Cassin Ridge.

Jumping over to the Alpinist Newswire today, we learn that three Japanese climbers have recently linked up two of Denali’s hardest routes. From May 11-May 18, climbers Katsutaka Yokoyama, Yusuke Sato, and Fumitaka Ichimura linked up the Isis Face, the Stutzman-Tackle and the Slovak Direct routes in one continuous 8 day push. This, in and of itself, is a pretty amazing feat. A little bit further into the article, we get this small snippet:

From The Alpinist Newswire:

The success was tempered by apparent tragedy, however, as two of their friends remain missing on Denali.

Further, in the same article, while speaking of the missing climbers:

They had planned to climb the Cassin after first traversing Kahiltna Peak, but for unknown reasons gave up the traverse and repositioned themselves on the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna. They are believed to have begun climbing sometime around May 14 or 15, but while Yokoyama sighted tracks on the upper part of the Cassin, he was unsure if they had been made by his friends.

It is also noted that in recent days the NPS (National Park Service) had been able to do aerial searches of the region, but thus far, have still not found any signs of the missing climbers.  The missing climbers’ names have not been released at this time, pending their families arrival to the area.

I am not trying to jump out on a limb here, but if the climbers failed to return on May 22, and no signs of them have been found, up to this point–it’s just not looking very good.  On the upside, all five of the Japanese climbers are experienced Alpinists and members of a group of climbers known as the Giri-Giri Boys.

The Giri-Giri Boys have been climbing “in the shadows” a bit and knocking off some of the toughest problems in the world, in relation to mountaineering.  Last year they set up a few new routes in the Ruth Gorge, and recently topped that off with their success on Denali.  The new link-up on Denali covered 16,000 vertical feet.  For the Isis Face, it was the third ascent of this route, and likewise, with the Slovak Direct, they put up the fourth ascent.  For the combo route of the two, the Giri-Giri Boys are the only and the first ones in history to complete this very difficult climb.

Many times in Mountaineering we find that Success and Tragedy walk hand in hand.  Let’s keep our thoughts on the two missing climbers on Denali and pray for their family, friends, and associates.  I will update you when I learn more.

Bob Bates, Member of Famed 1953 K2 Expedition, Dies at 96

This sad news is coming to us today from Jake Norton’s MountainWorld.

Famed Mountaineer and climbing legend Bob Bates has died.  Mr. Bates, an early pioneer in high altitude mountaineering held a vast resume that included being the third person to ever top out on Denali,a 1938 Expedition to K2 and, of course, the famed 1953 K2 Expedition that has become legendary in climbing circles around the world.

The story of the 1953 K2 Expedition can be found in a book titled “The Brotherhood of the Rope“, that was released in May with Mr. Bates attending the launch ceremony.

The 1953 K2 Expedition became famous after Pete Schoening made a daring self-arrest of the entire team, which included Bob Bates, Charles Houston, Dee Molenaar, Bob Craig, Art Gilkey and others.  In the daring effort, fellow teammate Art Gilkey lost his life high on the slopes of K2, the world’s second tallest mountain.

Mr. Bates was also a well known author.  Many of his books are essential reading for anyone interested in mountaineering.  They include:

• Five Miles High
• K2: The Savage Mountain
• Mountain Man
• The Love of Mountains is Best
• Mystery, Beauty, and Danger

Besides being an early pioneer of mountaineering and author, Mr. Bates was also the former president of the American Alpine Club and helped establish the Peace Corps in Nepal, along with his wife.

For more on Mr. Bates, please check out Jake Norton’s MountainWorld.  He has put together a really good piece on Mr. Bates and The Brotherhood of the Rope.  By the way, I first became aware of this story through an article on The Adventure Blog.  You might want to stop by and check it out as well.

Bob Bates

Climbing Legend

1911-2007

American Climber Dies Enroute to Shisha Pangma

The fall Himalayan season has just kicked off and already, we are hearing reports that an American climber has died. 

Ray Yeritsian, originally from Armenia-but moved to the States in 1991–died while enroute to Shisha Pangma.  He was set to climb Shisha with an expedition team from Asian Trekking.

From ExplorersWeb:

The team was supposed to start out on 11th of September. Due to landslide, the expedition was delayed and planned to reach base camp on September 15. But according to Doctors, Ray suffered a ruptured artery in Nyalam.

Ray was an avid climber.  He had taken on many of the World’s top peaks including successful summits of Aconcagua and Denali and a failed attempt on Mt. Everest in 2000.

Asian Trekking is reporting that Ray’s body is enroute to the United States on request from the family.

Our thoughts and Prayers go out to Ray and his family and friends.

Robert Link Claims 300th Summit of Mt. Rainier

Baseball is famous for it’s ‘clubs’.  You have the 3,000 hit club, the 3,000 strike-out club, and the 40-40.  Mountain climbing has a small club of it’s own.

Robert Link of Bend, Oregon has just claimed his 300th summit on Mt. Rainier.  Robert has been a guide on Rainier for quite some time.  He owns his own guiding company, Mountain Link Guides, as well as working Mt. Rainier expeditions for Alpine Ascents.

Link first summited Rainier when he was 12 years old and 26 years later he can now lay claim to his 300th summit of the famed mountain.

Robert Link is not alone in this famed club though.  As a matter of fact, he is the seventh member of the 300 summit club, as well as the second person from Bend, Oregon to claim the title.

Link has averaged 12 Rainier summits a year, since 1981, when he first began guiding on the famed mountain.  Link has also managed to fit in successful summits of Mt. Everest and Denali in his spare time, as well as becoming the 5th American to summit Kangchenjunga, the world’s third highest peak.

Robert is currently at Mt. Rainier now, going for number 301.  So how does he stack up with the other members of the 300 summit club?  Here are the stats for all seven members of the famed club:

• George Dunn–490 summits
• Phil Ershler–430 summits
• Craig Van Hoy –357 summits
• Brent Okita–342 summts
• Paul Maier–333 summits
• Jason Edwards–304
• Robert Link–300

You can tell that Robert has quite a ways to go to catch Seattle’s George Dunn at 490 summits.

Next year Robert Link is setting his sights on K2 for a non-guided expedition to the top of the world’s most dangerous peak.

Sources:  The Bend Bulletin and The Tacoma News Tribune

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