The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

Alan Arnette’s Denali Health Scare and Update

We have all been following along with my good friend Alan Arnette and his year long effort that will hopefully land him back on Mt. Everest for a third time.

This past week Alan was doing a “training” climb on Mt. Denali, North America’s tallest peak.  He seen this as a stepping stone to his eventual goal–but the stepping stone decided to give Alan a run for his money, as we will see.

From Alan Arnette’s Post:

We climbed higher and soon I could see the top of the headwall at 16,100’. I was feeling strong, comfortable and confident. Actually I was enjoying the climb and feeling secure - then it happened.  

A hit to my stomach that took my breath away. I stopped in my tracks bringing my rope to an abrupt halt. I bent over to catch my breath. What the Fu*K? I asked myself.

I pushed as I consider what was happening. Was I drinking enough? I had a liter at breakfast and another half at the break. Eaten enough? Cream of wheat for breakfast and a Cliff Bar an hour ago. Warm enough? Yup, needed to zip down to stay cool and was comfortable. OK, covered the basics, what else. I felt like I had diarrhea. What had I eaten… the same as the others. So, probably no food problem including food poisoning.

Needless to say, the next few hours seen Alan getting worse.  His condition had deteriorated to the point where Medical Evacuation from Denali was intitiated.

To speak with Alan you will understand two things immediately.  1) Climbing is his life and 2)  Getting Home Safe is the only option.  Being a climber though–being on that mountain sometimes plays havoc with your instincts.

These guys sometimes put in years of training for just one climb.  Alan has put in years of training, definately has the experience to know when to say when–yet even at that point, it is a very hard decision.  I encourage all of you to check out his personal report of this expedition–this is as real as it gets and Alan puts it into words perfectly..( Click Alan’s Denali 2007 Report).Now on with the story..

Alan was airlifted by helicopter off of Denali and then taken to a nearby hospital.  The Doctors were baffled as to what Alan’s problem could be.  The next couple of days seen Alan return back to his home in Colorado and a much anticipated reunion with his wife.

At this current time, Alan has updated me that he is now feeling about 90%.  He is awaiting a meeting with his specialist and nutritionist to see if they might know what went wrong.  Does this problem slow Alan down though?  Not one bit.

He recently emailed me a few images of a climb–that is right–a climb that he has done since returning back from Denali.  He took on his local Long’s Peak in Colorado.  I am sure that this was both for the physical workout as well as the mental workout after suffering such a scary momment a week earlier, and at     14, 256 feet, Long’s Peak provided just what Alan needed..  This trip went well for Alan and he says that his training schedule is moving forward as planned. 

Alan’s next stop will be the Himalayan monster peak of Shisha Pangma.  Standing at 26, 335 feet tall, it is the world’s 14th largest peak.  Alan will be heading to Tibet at the Beginning of September for this journey, with a preliminary summit date of October 8.

Alan’s crusade back to Mt. Everest has been inspired by his cause to help raise awareness for Alzheimer’s Research.  This is a very personal cause to Alan, as well as alot of us, as this disease has touched so many lives.  Unless you have been there, you just don’t know.  And if you have experienced this disease in your own family, friends, and associates–then perhaps you would like to give Alan a hand in his quest.  You may do so by making a donation through the following link.

We are all glad to hear that Alan is doing well.  I will be bringing you updates as his Quest for Everest in the name of Alzheimer’s Research picks up throughout 2007.  If you would like to visit Alan’s own website which includes his own updates, as well as a Climber’s Forum, by all means stop over and let him know I sent ya.  You may do so by clicking Alan Arnette.

(Editor’s Note:  The Images in this article are the Property of Alan Arnette and represent his 2007 Long’s Peak Climb.  Alan has granted me special permission to publish these images, but they may not be republished without contacting Alan Arnette for permission.)  J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

The Road to Everest–Literally!

Mt. Everest is set to be getting a new road.  The road, scheduled to begin construction on Monday, is being put in to place by the Chinese in an effort to help with their 2008 plans of summiting Mt. Everest with the famed Olympic Torch. 

This year has already seen the Chinese make a successful practice run of the torch to the summit.

The new road in will allow for a speedier trek to Basecamp for the Chinese as well as many other Expeditions that use this same path to Mt. Everest annually.  The Chinese are predicting a big outpouring of spectators for this event and are trying to rush along the process to ensure it’s success before next years Olympic Games.

The new road, which will run from Tangri County of Xigaze Prefecture at the base of Mt. Everest to Mt. Everest Basecamp–some 108 km, will be placed directly on top of a rough path used by Expedition Companies and climbers to reach Everest Basecamp.  The new road project is expected to take 4 months to build and will come in at a rough cost of $19.7 million.

The new road building project is set to kick off Monday with groundbreaking at Everest Basecamp, some 5, 200 meters above sea level.

The Road will be built complete with blacktop and metal guardrails and should allow much easier access to a place that usually took three days or more to get to, in the past.

Earlier this year rumors started circulating that the Chinese plan to shut down the North Side of Everest next year to Expeditions hoping to try for a summit next spring.  At this time no further word has been given about this situation.

Of interest though would be the expected crowds that this new road might let in to one of the most dangerous mountains in the world.  In 2007, well over 500 people made a successful summit, while 5 died in the process.  It is hard to imagine possibly more crowds in the basecamp area as alot of teams were concerned about them this season…

Also, Tibet, who has been fighting for this territory that China also claims ownership to since the 1950’s, has been highly outspoken in their dissapproval of anything in their country being tied to the Chinese Olympics.  Tibet has been voicing their opinions in highly public protests–one of which led to 5 people being arrested on Mt. Everest this season, against China.

With all of this building up to the 2008 Olympics and the 2008 Everest climbing season in the spring, it will be very interesting to see how this plays out, and if, indeed, the Chinese can pull this off successfully without an International Incident, as Tibet will once again become a huge focus in International circles.

The ChinaView was the source for part of this information after following a link from The Drudge Report.

Dave Hahn, Usha Bista and How The Mainstream Media Bites a Big One…

First off, let me be the first to say that, quite frankly, I am pissed.  Luckily, I am not mainstream media and can rightfully say whatever I want to on this platform–so, I am pissed.

The media has picked up the recent story of Dave Hahn’s incredible high altitude rescue and once again turned it in to the David Sharp incident–

For the last two months I have been covering the news from Mt. Everest, I have not seen one…NOT ONE story about anything to do with Everest or the great accomplishments, or the 5 or more other rescues, or the 5 deaths…NOT ONE STORY ON EVEREST until this one in the mainstream media!

What Dave Hahn rightfully done was incredible, he saved a life that probably would have died within hours..but the media has already stepped in and skewed the story.

They have seemingly jumped on the “words” of various climbers claiming that Usha Bista was left by her team on Everest, without knowing ANY of the background, or for that matter, even her name.  They simply call her Usha.

It amazes me that they will report this story, skew it for the public, then cry about climbers rights, climbers etiquette…and try to arouse a reaction out of the public.  This is what is wrong, not only in the climbing world, but in news reporting in general! 

The facts have been stated at least two days ago by myself and a couple of other places about the circumstances surrounding this rescue mission. 

Usha Bista was rescued.  She was rescued by Dave Hahn.  She was found alone and in dire shape.  That is what is known.  NOTHING ELSE at this point.

At the same time, there are two paragraphs in the piece I just got done mentioning, talking about Usha Bista.  Another three about DAVID SHARP.

In a way, I have worked in mainstream media in the past as a journalist.  I know how these things go.  They have pieced this whole scenario on what the IMG team first reported on their Expedition Site.  But they state everything as fact even though it was stated that it was not known if she was left behind and further details would not be known until the IMG team had a chance to talk to her.

One other thing I found interesting in this bit of media circus journalism was the fact that they had a comment about this situation from Dave Hahn himself, as follows:

I was very concerned because her oxygen had run out. She was virtually unresponsive, and in a precarious spot on the mountain, on a steep snowy slope,” Hahn told The Times via satellite phone from Base Camp.

This is ALL Dave had to tell the Times, I guess, about this rescue mission, as nothing else was printed in reference to this conversation.  Now, I am not going “whistle-blowing” here, but do you not think that Dave would have at least talked about the rescue mission and what occured while he was on the phone?  It just seems like the rest should have been included.  Or was it excluded for a reason?  Here is more:

She was at a similar altitude to the cave where Sharp died on May 15, 2006, after an estimated 40 climbers passed him by, most of them without making any attempt to save him. His death sparked an international controversy, with some arguing that a rescue would have cost more lives. Others, including Sir Edmund Hillary, condemned the cynicism of commercial mountaineers.

Usha, like Sharp, was apparently on the sort of barebones expedition that charges clients typically as little as $8,933 and provides them with only basic equipment.

Also like Sharp, she was too weak to move when she was found by David Hahn, a veteran American guide, and his sherpa, Phinjo Dorje, on their way down from the summit. Hahn and Phinjo Dorje decided to risk their own lives by taking her with them, even though she was only semiconscious and suffering from severe cerebral oedema, or water on the brain.

Right there is 90% of this News report!

Do Not believe what you read in the media!  They Over-hype, Over-sensitize…and quite often never give you all the facts.

Alpine Climbing and climber’s ethics have taken a huge hit because of the David Sharp incident last season, perhaps in a way it was good, as this season did see quite a few rescues take place in high altitude..but at the same time not EVERY RESCUE is David Sharp!  Each and every instance is different and unless you are actually on that freakin mountain you have no idea how you would react, so quit your whining and crying and tearing down of a world you know nothing about!

Mountaineering is about risk.  It is about accomplishing the unachievable.  A test of self.

David Sharp did die.  He died in a horrible way that even to this day is still controversial in terms of what is and isn’t known…I just think that it is time we all move beyond David Sharp and quit trying to draw attention and raise opinions, cause a ruckus and deface a lifestyle all for the sake of alittle airtime. 

By the way, this story was featured on FoxNEWS today and is still found on their website, but I don’t suggest you go over their to check it out or you’ll be biting a big one just like they hopefully are.

Everest 2007 Update: More Details on Two Rescues As Well As Another Missing Climber?

Yesterday, I reported on two High Altitude Rescues taking place.  One was of a Nepalese Woman who had been stranded on the South Balcony, supposedly left behind by her team.  I now have more details on this incident.

I recieved an anonymous tip yesterday identifying the climber as Usha Bista.  I have held on to this information awaiting confirmation from other sources..and today it has been confirmed through the IMG team Expedition Update.

Here is what is known:

Usha Bista was climbing with the Democratic Nepal Expedition.  She got into trouble around 27, 500 Ft. near the Balcony on a push for the summit.  Her team meanwhile continued for the summit.  At this time, it is still a little bit sketchy as to if she was actually left or had fallen behind the rest of her team.

Here is a news item published before Usha Bista’s team began their Expedition.  It will list her and her teamates as well as their ultimate goal:

Wednesday, April 11,2007

KATHMANDU: Kantipur Publications on Tuesday handed over a banner containing its publications logo to the Democratic Everest Expedition team set to scale the world’s highest peak.
The team headed by veteran mountaineer Aangrita Sherpa, also known as the “Snow Leopard,” is set begin its expedition on Nepali New Year’s day.Publications’ Chief Financial Officer Deepak Bansal and journalist Aang Chhering Sherpa, the first South Asian journalist toscale
Mt. Everest, handed over the banner with best wishes to the expedition.

Kantipur Publications is the official media partner of the expedition.

The team includes Usha Bista, who will be the first lady from Far Western Nepal to scale Mt Everest, Ngima Sherpa, Chhiring Phinjo Sherpa, Bhuwan Singh Rai and Dorji Sherpa, who has reached the top 14 times.

The team will take photos of the martyrs of Janandolan-II and flags of eight political parties, United Nations and Kantipur Publications.

“We are planning to support the family members of the martyrs by making a documentary on the expedition,” said leader of the team Ngima Sherpa.

Through Mike Haugen with the IMG Expedition we are gaining some new insight into the events surrounding her successful rescue:

Within the first twenty minutes of our rest time (in C4 after summitting) we started getting radio calls that there was a woman on the triangular face of Everest (27,000 ft) that was having a very difficult time,” recalled Mike yesterday from BC. “A call went out to IMG guide Dave Hahn to watch for her on his way down. By the time Dave got to her she was in very bad shape and was nearly unconscious. At this point we all began playing detective and trying to figure out what team she was with and where their camp was. We figured out she was with the Nepali Democratic team and the rest of her teammates were high on the mountain. Dave had radio communication with some doctors at base camp. The doctors advised that Dave inject the patient, Usha, with dexamethazone to help with the effects of cerebral edema.”

“After Dave gave her the “dex” he had to get her down to lower altitudes or she would surely die. With the help of Lhakpa Rita Sherpa and a few other people they got Usha down to the South Col where luckily there was a team of doctors with the Extreme Everest expedition waiting to help. Usha was diagnosed with cerebral edema, frost bitten hands, and hypothermia. The doctors said that if she did not get down to lower altitudes with more definitive care, she would die. Since Casey, Dave Hahn and I are guides and were also headed down that day we were put in charge of coordinating the rescue.”

“Luckily the Extreme Everest group had a couple of Sherpas and a doctor, Andre, that they could send down with us. Since most people at the South Col had climbed Everest that day and were tired we only managed to find one more Sherpa from the Asian Trekking Expedition group that would help us with our task. For the extremely steep and rugged descent down from the South Col, Usha was packaged up in a sleeping bag strapped to a sled. Since carrying her down this terrain would be impossible we would have to drag her and lower her with ropes. This is a pretty standard rescue procedure where the patient is actually pretty comfortable and snug with a lot of padding.”

“There was actually a pretty big crew that helped us out of the South Col to the Geneva spur where the steep stuff started. We began rigging lowering systems with a couple of people lowering and a few guiding the sled. The very hard parts were the traverses where we not only had to lower and pull, but we had to make sure that Usha and the sled did not roll over. Eventually we figured out a good system that was not quite as fatiguing as when we first started. After the first hour I looked up at how far we had gotten and then looked down at where we had to go. I only did that once! We worked our way across the steep Lhotse Face and down through a rocky area called the Yellow Band. Once we got through this area it got a little easier because we were straight above C3 so we did more lowering than guiding the sled, but we were also getting very tired. Before we got to C3 the sun had set and it was starting to get cold.”

“We kept lowering and lowering and finally just above C3 a group of doctors from the Extreme Everest Expedition came up and helped us the rest of the way into camp. Once we were in C3 we handed Usha over to a group of physicians who put her in a tent under medical care. We were confident that she was being given top notch care. We were invited to stay in C3 but the thought of our own sleeping bags waiting at C2 was too inviting. By the time we descended the Lhotse face we had been climbing or rescuing for well over 24 hours so we were exhausted. A group of IMG Sherpas came to meet us on the glacier to bring us some water and to help us with our packs. As mountain guides, we never let anyone carry our packs but we were very tired. After a little fake resistance, we gladly gave up our packs and Dave, Casey and I stumbled back to C2.”

“This morning, on our walk down, we got a call over the radio thanking us for our efforts and letting us know that Usha was improving greatly. In fact, they were going to try to walk her down to camp II with the help of six Sherpas.”

It is still unclear as to why Usha Bista was left alone at the Balcony.  I am sure more details will be following shortly.  I will keep you posted.

North Side Rescue But Another Climber Missing?

There seems to be some great confusion going on today regarding another High Altitude Rescue.  It was reported yesterday that a climber simply known as “Marco” was found unconscience outside of Camp 3 and had supposedly been there for 48 hours.  The good news is that “Marco” was successfully rescued…the bad news…His partner is still missing.

I have now been able to identify “Marco” as Marco Epis of the Spirito Libero Expedition.  His partner on this expedition, Pierangelo Maurizio is still missing and no one has seen or heard from him since May 17.

EverestNews has put out this bulletin which will exemplify the confusion on this situation:

It has been another long long hard year reporting on Everest. False death reports all over as normal. Our news being copied and mangled. Of course those with clear agendas signing their songs and those who “claim not to have an agenda” signing their songs … Same old Everest, just another year!

The question is: Is another Italian climber, Pierangelo Maurizio,  missing?

Some seem sure no other climber is missing. Others off the mountain believe Pierangelo Maurizio is missing and probably lost now….

The confusion seems to get worse as most know an Italian climber, “Marco” was found and was saved from camp 3 on the North side. readers are telling us that Marco is not Pierangelo Maurizio and that Pierangelo Maurizio is still missing. Climbers we speak to on the mountain don’t seem to know another Italian climber is missing… Some seem to think Pierangelo Maurizio is Marco, other not… At this point, we believe Pierangelo Maurizio is not Marco and that most on the mountain does not know this. We hope we are wrong….

So with the risk is spreading a false rumor that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing as our news is repeated over and over, here it goes Pierangelo Maurizio is missing on Everest… Please let us know if you know where he is, people are concerned… 

We should add we know of NO other dead or missing climbers besides what we have reported to date and currently believe reports to the otherwise are false…

At this time it is known that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing, but that, in no way, means that he has perished on Mt. Everest. To date, only 5 climbers have been confirmed as dying this season on Mt. Everest.  They are as follows:  Dawa Sherpa, Two Korean Climbers-Oh Hee-Joon and Lee Hyun Jo, A Japanese Climber who perished a few steps from the summit upon descent-and a Czech Climber.  All of these have been confirmed.

On this issue, I agree with EverestNews that a climber is missing, as I have now confirmed the identity of “Marco”. 

Another interesting tidbit to back up the fact that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing..on May 17, Russell Brice and Kari Kobler each took part in a search and rescue mission to try to locate him…this next bit of information is coming from PlanetMountain and a recent interview they conducted with Nives Meroi on May 21:

On summit day, 17 May, there were problems with some mountaineers from another Italian expedition from Bergamo. I know that many gave a hand in the search. But to date there is no news about Pierangelo Maurizio…
Unfortunately there were problems… and we, just like the rest, tried to help as much as possible, even logistically. A rescue on a mountain like this requires the right means, you need to have rested, you need supplementary oxygen. And I have to say that the commercial expeditions led by Russell Brice and Kari Kobler were fantastic, offering all the means and their people at their disposal, unconditionally and free of charge. They truly deserve a big thank you!

Now I know that really didn’t answer anything to do with the question, but it does show that a mission was initiated to try to find the missing climber. 

By the way, if you would like to read the rest of this interview with Nives, Click HERE.
 

Everest 2007 Update: Two High Altitude Rescues, More Summits, and a Possible Weather Change?

Over the past day, two amazing rescues have occured at high-altitude, one each on the North and the South.  One rescue is cause for concern though, as we will see:

Female Nepali Climber Abandoned at 27,500 Feet

An Unknown female climber with the Democratic Nepal Everest Expedition was seemingly left for dead by her own team near the Balcony at 27,500 feet on Everest’s South Side yesterday.  At this time, this is all that is known of the actual incident other than details from the IMG Expedition Team who went up to try to make a high-altitude rescue.

Dave Hahn–who incidentally has some of the most famous High-Altitude rescues ever to his credit–went back up with both Mike and Casey from the Coleman Everest 2007 Expedition on an attempt to save this female climber.  Here are the details coming from the IMG Expedition website:

Dave, Mike N., Mike H., and Casey have descended to Camp 2. On the way they helped a climber from another team, who had been abandoned at the Balcony (27,500′,) and who was in very bad shape. They managed to get her to Camp 3, where she was turned over to climbers from the Everest Expreme (medical research) team. We are proud of these guys for doing a great job on the way up, and the way down!! We’ll keep you posted!

This comes on the heels of a tragedy that occured last season when a similar incident occured with climber David Sharp…the difference this year?  People went back up to help and the climber was saved.  The David Sharp incident last season brought International attention to climber ethics and how these rescues were handled on Mt. Everest.  Over the past few weeks, we have all witnessed some great high altitude rescues taking place…and all I can attribute that to is the memory of David Sharp…

While I am talking about IMG, today they are reporting that their final team has successfully made the summit today and will shortly be heading back to basecamp. This is great news that has seen well over 33 IMG team members make the summit this year.  Congratulations!

Italian Climber Found Near Death at High Camp

An Italian Climber on North Everest was found today near the Camp at 8300 Meters.  Marco, as he has simply been known thus far, was found unconscience and had apparently spent close to 48 hours lying in the snow before he was discovered by members of Alex Abramov’s 7Summits Expedition.  Here is what 7Summits reported: Read more

Sherpa Climbing Legend, Pemba Doma, Dead at 37

Some tragic news coming from Lhotse today.  The Sherpa community has lost one their dear climbing legends, Pemba Doma Sherpa.

Pemba Doma Sherpa was a two time Mt. Everest Summiter.  She completed her first ascent of the world’s tallest mountain on May 19, 2000, climbing up the North Ridge Route.  Two years later, on May 16, 2002, she done the same once again, except from the South Col.

Upon each seperate summit, Pemba Doma Sherpa would be setting records for the Nepalese women.  Her first summit from the north was the first time a Nepalese woman had made a successful attempt from this route.  Consequentially, when she done it from the South Col two years later, she also became the first Nepalese woman to do it from both sides.

Pemba Doma Sherpa would also go on to claim summits at Cho Oyu in 2005, and Lhotse, just hours before her untimely death.

According to reports coming in from Lhotse as well as EverestNews and Alan Arnette, Pemba Doma Sherpa died after falling on Lhotse.  She had made a successful summit on Lhotse at 11:30 and was on her descent when the fall occured.  Another Sherpa climbing partner with her at the time was also injured, but sources at this time are saying that the other Sherpa is expected to survive.  No name or condition was given.

Pemba Doma Sherpa’s body has been brought back down to the Lhotse Basecamp at this time and is awaiting proper burial.

The Adventurist would like to wish all of our thoughts and prayers to her family, friends, and associates as well as the community from which she is from, Solukhumbu, Nepal.  She will be greatly missed.

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Everest 2007 Update: Summits, Summits, and More Summits

Yesterday I posted an Interview with David Tait as well as Alan Arnette’s BIG Announcement–both of these items were pretty big news.  I didn’t post my usual update yesterday with all the previously mentioned stuff going on…so guess what.  That means this is going to be one HUGE update covering the events that has been going on for the last couple of days.

Before I get in to that though, I would first like to post a fair warning for anyone coming by this site from the Television Without Pity forum.  There will be at least one Everest: Beyond the Limit spoiler here today.  So if you don’t want to know what has happened–either skip this post, or come back tomorrow.  I do appreciate all of you stopping by though.

Alright, Let’s get to it:

David Hahn Summits for a Record 9th Time

David Hahn, climbing with IMG, has successfully summited Mt. Everest for his record 9th time.  This puts David as the single most productive Everest Summiter ever that is a non-sherpa climber.  Don’t fear though, I am pretty sure that Apa Sherpa’s current record of 17 will be holding for quite a few more years to come.

Here is a post that Dave made to his expedition website GreatOutdoors:

Hey Great Outdoors, hey this is Dave and I’m on the summit of Mount Everest, it’s let’s see, see if I can see my watch here, it’s 6:40 now we got here 15 minutes ago. Beautiful morning. Beautiful morning. We beat the crowd, and it gave us some trouble, aggravating coming up in the dark at sunrise up the step part of the South Summit, but everybody rested on the South Summit and me and Phinjo Dorge from . . . right there and we got the jump and then had the traverse and Hillary Steps to ourselves, splendid morning, beautiful shadows, casting big shadow of Everest out to the horizon. Just beautiful, really very thrilling, and uh going to give you another call in a minute here, oh boy, it’s exciting to be here. Think I can see as far as I ever have been able to, Makalu, Kangchenchugka, Shishapangma, maybe that’s Manaslu back there, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, beautiful. Beautiful. Okay call you back in a few minutes when my fingers thaw out again.

Sounds like a great view from the top of the World’s Highest Peak, Mt. Everest.

Gavin Bate’s Near Death Experience…Summit Denied

Gavin Bate, who was trying to pull off his own successful traverse of Everest, going North to South, had to call off his climb after nearly dying at 8300 meters.

To begin to put this into perspective, David was planning on traversing Everest with his “shadow” Sherpa Pasang Tendi, using the bare minimum of essentials–a light-weight single-skin tent, a small stove and bivi sack, and whatever else he could manage to get into his backpack.  Now let’s go to the details of what transpired as he attempted to reach the summit.  First, from May 19: Read more

The Adventurist: The David Tait Interview Pt. 2, Post Everest 2007

In March of this year, The Adventurist had the priviledge of interviewing David Tait before he set off to climb Mt. Everest.  David’s ambitions were made very clear.  He wanted to become the first person to ever “Double-Traverse” Mt. Everest in the same season. 

He was well prepared.  David had summited Mt. Everest previously in 2006 and was feeling in such great shape afterwards that he made a commitment to dedicate himself to the world’s first ever double-traverse of Everest in 2007, all the while donating every penny earned to the NSPCC and trying to draw some much needed attention for his latest life mission– helping children who have been the victims of abuse in his native land.

David’s attempt garnered alot of attention this season.  He was a member of the much touted and often ridiculed Himex Team that is being led by Russell Brice–and who, by chance, was also being followed along by The Discovery Channel Team in hopes of filming their second season of Everest: Beyond the Limit.

Through David’s Expedition Blog this season we were given the rare opportunity to take a look at what goes on behind the scenes.  David’s thoughts, concerns, and daily routine were not only followed by myself, but by thousands of people around the world.  In effect, this attention has garnered David something that he has been trying to get accomplished for well over a year now–and that is helping the NSPCC.

Through David Tait’s great assault on Everest this season, we were all able to learn a little bit about ourselves.  David’s journey began strong.  He put himself in place to make a successful first summit and in essence, he did just that.  Half of his goal was accomplished.  Now all he had to do was go back down the opposite side of Mt. Everest, take a 7-10 day rest, and do it all over again from the South Col.

What surprised alot of people in the world was what happened next.  Upon reaching Camp on the South, David made an announcement that his double-traverse was essentially off–

Over the next couple of days, David would go on to explain his reasonings behind this decision.  He felt that Phurba Sherpa, his climbing partner this season, should be given the credit he was due.  If anyone should be the “first” to do something, David noted, It should be the Sherpa who have been an integeral part of every climbing expedition on Mt. Everest.

Over the past season, David has been looked upon as perhaps a little cocky.  David has been seen, as one climber put it, as the “007″ on Everest this season.  Discovery Channel found in David someone who they originally thought would make for great TV..he was good-looking, well prepared, well spoken, and at times could be a bit controversial..someone the american audiences would surely fall in love with.  But David had other plans…

David Tait is his own man.  From the beginning David stayed focused and knew where he was going.  He had goals and he stuck to them..and in a suprise move David Tait showed the World something that alot of us foresake….humility.

In David’s humility, as much as the decision was so hard for  alot of us to comprehend at the time–David still became the first person to EVER traverse Everest, North to South, from his native UK as well as the first Person to ever do so from Europe.

Two new records, a successful traverse of the world’s tallest peak–and tons and tons of humility…that is David Tait.

It is with great pleasure that I can bring to you the first In-Depth Interview with David since his decision to call off his Double-Traverse.  You will see, undoubtedly, how this all unfolded just days ago.

I will let you make up your own minds on who David Tait is and what he represents, as well as perhaps, show you what part of being great entails.

The Adventurist Interviews David Tait

 

The Adventurist:  When I first interviewed you for The Adventurist back in March, you were
just preparing to head off to Mt. Everest.  It has now been two and a half months and you have successfully summited Mt. Everest for a second time. How are you feeling right now and what is your general condition?

David Tait:  I’m feeling more than a little tired -I keep dozing off, but considering i’m still sitting in solitary confinement at the hotel Tibet in Katmandu, i’ve little else to do but read and sleep. I have started to reflect on the successes of the expedition and i’m quite content.

The Adventurist:  This marks the second Expedition to Mt. Everest that you have been on with Himex.  This season was a little bit different though as The Discovery Channel Film Crew was on hand to record what was going on.  Can you elaborate a bit on this experience, and did it in any way influence your day to day activities and preparation?

David Tait:  Yes, I found the film crew to be a nice sociable bunch, but in an ideal world I would have prefered to climb without them. This is for two reasons - firstly, I believe [my opinion only] that they became a little disappointed with the ordinaryiness of the participants, and desperately wanted something to “spice things up”…. i bored them senseless with interviews in which i only referred to the climb and my charity work. i think they hoped for a lot more than this. Secondly, in my opinion again, there was disproportionate attention given to two memebers of the expedition, one complete [literally] novice lady, and one larger than life, but ultimately offensive semi-experienced man. It was clear to me, owing to the coverage that these two got, that the essence of the program [reality tv] would fail without their presence. I found this a little depressing at times.

The Adventurist:  As your summit attempt was taking shape, Russell Brice met with you and
Phurba Sherpa giving you  the go-ahead to start your ascent.  First, can you tell us about this meeting and second, why were you given the go-ahead so far in advance of the rest of the Himex crew?

David Tait:  ———-The meeting was help on the “tigerdome” in the presence once again
of the cameras. Russ, Phurba and i discussed firstly the current state of the fixed ropes, the imminent plans to fix higher, ultimately to the summit, the plans for moving or removing bodies [with permission] from the route, and finally the plans for our traverse/s - this included oxygen, and other minor logisitcs. We had the go ahead to leave earlier owing to the intention of double-traversing inside the proscribed time limit of the end of the season.

The Adventurist:  Upon beginning your ascent there were varied accounts of the projected
“Weather Window” for the summit.  You essentially took a chance by taking off a bit
earlier than everyone else.  Was this planned to beat the crowds or were there other factors involved?

David Tait:  The principal factor was to allow for a second return attempt - hence the early departure. The weather looked a little didgy when we left abc, but in the end it was ideal. We realized there would likely be crowds, but as we both move very fast, we were confident we could outpace most - as we manged.

The Adventurist:  Once you had finally made your successful summit from the North and began to head down the South, did you have any idea that you would be fixing ropes and breaking trail on your descent?  Also, for the uninitiated, can you explain what you had to do and the toll that it eventually took?

David Tait:  Yes, we were aware that the south-side sherpas had only fixed rope to the “balcony”. However, as both of us hadn’t  seen the south-side before, we had no real idea where the balcony was, or how hard it would be to reach. We set off from the summit somewhat blind, moving very slowly and carefully, digging footholds, one at a time, so that the snow wouldn’t mini-avalanche,taking one of us with it. We were joined together by 25 m of rope for safety, and belay-relayed ourselves along the ridge to the Hilary
step. Somehow my oxygen got turned off by hitting the wall, and I thought I was suffocating - I dont know how. Phurba checked for me and turned it back on. That was a weird 10 mins. We were also carrying 150m of rope for possible permanent fixing. We fixed line from the Hillary step, across and up to the south summit - this took an age owing to the need to creep slowly across the ridge-line, cutting footholds. From the south summit to the balcony was
fairly routine, but with quite deep shifting snow. Once at the balcony we discovered the fixed rope….it took us from 6.30 until 11 am approx. to
negotiate the distance from the summit to the balcony….many times longer than it would have done under normal circumstances.

The Adventurist:  In the beginning of this journey, your goal was to “Double-Traverse” the
world’s highest mountain, but after your first successful summit and crossing over to the South you changed your mind.  Can you take us through this process and the reasonings behind your change of mind?

David Tait:  The reasons I changed my mind are twofold. Firstly, and most importantly,  as I mentioned on my site, the only way I was personally going to claim “first to double traverse” was if i asked a superior climber and human being [Phurba] to effectively “step-aside” and let me ” win”. This has been gnawing away at me for months. Having watched Phurba fix ropes to the
summit on April 30th, and then descend to bc in 6 hours, i knew in my heart that he deserved all plaudits. He is an extrordinary chap, honest,
generous, patient and modest to a point that the Dalai Lama could learn things from him. There was no way, especially in the context of my charity work, that I could pretend to supercede him.
The second thing, closely connected was that I was also very tired from the descent - much more than I had anticipated. In the context of not wanting to usurp Phurba, I knew that there was little if any point in forcing my way over this mountain yet again, to come in second. I also feel strongly that such “titles” are there for the sherpas to take and legitimately own….. they
are streets ahead of ALL westerners, so I contented myself with “the first Brit” or if i’m lucky ” the first westerner” to traverse north-south.[ maybe you could help me with a clearer verification? I'd be grateful]. I’ve been told by many many informed people that im the first brit, but id like to know for dead-sure?

The Adventurist:  How different was this experience compared to your first successful summit? Was it easier or harder?

David Tait:   Harder - only in as much as I underestimated the south side descent…. 17 hours of arm-wrapping in both snow-storms and blazing sun - in a down suit….

The Adventurist:  Looking back, is there anything you would have done differently on this
Expedition, or did everything pretty much go as planned?

David Tait:  Everything went better than planned - I managed to summit/traverse after
only 35 days of acclimatization, and the summit day climb was relatively easy…I was suprised.

The Adventurist:  The NSPCC, your charity that you were doing this for, has been able to gain
alot of publicity through yourself and The Discovery Film Team.  If you had a few words for these kids you are trying to help, what would you say?

David Tait:   For the abused kids out there : you have a choice, as I once did. Your life can go south or it can go north - the choice is up to you. Stop blaming others and focus on yourself. I carried my secrets for 30 years - a wasted thirty years. let things go, and start climbing life.

The Adventurist:  Well, Once again David, I will congratulate you on a great climb and a successful second Mt. Everest summit!  It has been a pleasure to follow along with you on this fantastic journey and we are all looking forward to hearing more from you soon.  Hope your recovery goes well.. I am sure Vanessa can’t wait to see you!!  Now hurry Home…Safely!

 Bonus Questions

The Adventurist:  Since this is now over, do you think you will ever try Everest again?

David Tait:  Maybe, if my son or daughter wanted company etc…. but not for
any other reason.

The Adventurist:  In your opinion, what website brings the best “Adventure” coverage in
the world?    This may or may not be published depending on answer.  Ha,ha.

 David Tait:  You definately have a great site - i’m honestly only familiar with you and Ex-web. Yours is far more interesting owing to the manner in which you apparently obtain your info.  You are accurate, Ex-web isnt….dt

Editor’s Note:  At this time, David Tait has been confirmed as being the first person from the UK to make a successful Traverse of  Mt. Everest. 

I would also like to make a point to say that the opinions and viewpoints represented on The Adventurist are not neccessarily those of this site. In the context of  representing all viewpoints in the most accurate fashion, nothing has been left out, and except for a couple of minor spelling changes..everything is being presented as it was.

If you are interested in reading David’s first interview, just days before he began this incredible journey in March, you may do so by clicking HERE.

And Lastly, David Tait is currently in Kathmandu awaiting the arrival of his equipment so that he may leave for home.  David has mentioned that there just may be a book in the works about his two successful summits of Mt. Everest as well his work with the NSPCC…We will keep our eyes out for this project and I will bring more to you when I find out further.

Everest 2007 Update: David Tait Calls Off Double-Traverse, Bandits on the High Hill, and more…

I really have some mixed emotions reporting this news today and have waited in order to get my own thoughts in line..

David Tait Calls Off Double-Traverse

David Tait has called off his Double-Traverse of Everest after successfully summiting from the North to the South side two days ago.  I will let David explain from his own post on his Expedition Blog:

We had achieved Bc to Bc - at last.

However, during the later part of the endless painful descent I realised two things. Firstly, I was not going to be able, in all seriousness to motivate both mind and body to turn around and do it all again, at least not in the time-scale allowed. There might be some supermen in this world, but I discovered that I am frankly not one of them. The men who are however, are people like Phurba Tashi, and his band of awesome cohorts, who day-in day-out climb, stock, rope and carry loads up and down Everest without the slightest hint of complaint - in fact they appear to accept it as a priviledge. The have an almost alien mindset, and a work-ethic, no-one in Britain can even imagine.

The second moment of clarity amidst the pain, was the simple [and previously much considered] fact that in order for me to pander to my ego and claim to be the “First person to Double-Traverse Everest’
I would have to simply ask Phurba to step aside, the moment before we hypothetically summitted a second time. This was frankly unacceptable to me. I’m sure there are many people out there who claim success, when in fact everything is owed to some obscure unmentioned Sherpa. Well, the fact is we both traversed Everest the first time as equals, despite his immeasurably superior experience and skills, but if I indeed had the surplus energy to attempt a second summit, I would have been a fraud in asking him to let me summit first. This wasnt going to happen.

So David decided to ditch his plans and do what was right for his body…his mind…and his soul.  It was a very valiant effort on his part.

David, in a sense, made it possible for so many climbers after him to be able to achieve their dream of reaching the South Summit.  On David’s trip down the South Col, he managed to break trail and fix ropes that would eventually allow many other expeditions to follow up in his tracks-

I do feel it was the right call though.  David has been here before–he knows his body is these conditions and is a better judge than any of us could be.

It would have been nice if David would have set a new first on Everest, but after reading his post we can all understand his thinking and hopfully offer him a little more respect for his call and his judgement.  Well done on a great Expedition David.

As some of you may or may not know, I had the opportunity to Interview David before this Expedition began.  You may find this Interview here.

Bandits on the High Hill

DCXP is reporting that one of their Sherpa once again got involved in helping out another climber.  Namgia Sherpa, who was also quite possibly the Life-saver when Maxut and Vissily’s Expedition got in to trouble , has also been of dire help as noted here as well:

News from the Hill
Manwell - a.k.a. Manni the Canadian, on base services from Arun treks - with his own Sherpa - summited today (17th May) with borrowed crampons (from DCXP) after his first pair were stolen and while he ran out of oxygen at the second step on the way down and his Sherpa adandoned him, worse was to come -in fact when he got back to 8300m high camp his tent, stove, extra oxygen was all cleaned out and his faithless Sherpa no where to been seen….. cavet emptor - buyer beware…..

I think that if there were a “Humanitarian Award” in the climbing Community, Namgia Sherpa has more than proven he deserves the title.

More Teams on a Summit Push

Tonight should be another exciting night as more teams will be trying to make their own summit bids.  We will have more on this as the news becomes available, but so far, today has been very quiet from many Expeditions.

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