Jon Krakaur vs. Anatoli Boukreev

Alright, now I have got your interest.  Just about everybody in the climbing world knows of the Mt. Everest tragedy that the above title speaks of…May 10-11, 1996, 12 people perished in perhaps the worst climbing accident in history.  Much has been published, this story has been well publicized–yet to this day it still draws condescending and conflicting emotions.

Jon Krakaur, the bestselling author of Into Thin Air, and Anatoli Boukreev, author of the responding bestseller The Climb, have both pitched their versions of the story– Read more

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

Everest 2007 Update: Two High Altitude Rescues, More Summits, and a Possible Weather Change?

Over the past day, two amazing rescues have occured at high-altitude, one each on the North and the South.  One rescue is cause for concern though, as we will see:

Female Nepali Climber Abandoned at 27,500 Feet

An Unknown female climber with the Democratic Nepal Everest Expedition was seemingly left for dead by her own team near the Balcony at 27,500 feet on Everest’s South Side yesterday.  At this time, this is all that is known of the actual incident other than details from the IMG Expedition Team who went up to try to make a high-altitude rescue.

Dave Hahn–who incidentally has some of the most famous High-Altitude rescues ever to his credit–went back up with both Mike and Casey from the Coleman Everest 2007 Expedition on an attempt to save this female climber.  Here are the details coming from the IMG Expedition website:

Dave, Mike N., Mike H., and Casey have descended to Camp 2. On the way they helped a climber from another team, who had been abandoned at the Balcony (27,500′,) and who was in very bad shape. They managed to get her to Camp 3, where she was turned over to climbers from the Everest Expreme (medical research) team. We are proud of these guys for doing a great job on the way up, and the way down!! We’ll keep you posted!

This comes on the heels of a tragedy that occured last season when a similar incident occured with climber David Sharp…the difference this year?  People went back up to help and the climber was saved.  The David Sharp incident last season brought International attention to climber ethics and how these rescues were handled on Mt. Everest.  Over the past few weeks, we have all witnessed some great high altitude rescues taking place…and all I can attribute that to is the memory of David Sharp…

While I am talking about IMG, today they are reporting that their final team has successfully made the summit today and will shortly be heading back to basecamp. This is great news that has seen well over 33 IMG team members make the summit this year.  Congratulations!

Italian Climber Found Near Death at High Camp

An Italian Climber on North Everest was found today near the Camp at 8300 Meters.  Marco, as he has simply been known thus far, was found unconscience and had apparently spent close to 48 hours lying in the snow before he was discovered by members of Alex Abramov’s 7Summits Expedition.  Here is what 7Summits reported: Read more

The Everest Chronicles: Rob Hall, Scott Fischer, and the Worst Tragedy in Everest History–May 10, 1996

May 10, 2007.  It has been 11 years since tragedy struck Everest in a blinding storm that claimed the lives of world-reknown mountain guides Rob Hall and Scott Fischer.

Eleven Years.

Their story is one of much debate even to this day.  The tragedy is discussed on websites and forums around the world with one thing being for certain–Scott Fischer and Rob Hall are dearly missed..

In life they were two of the best mountain climbers of their day. Quite possibly two of the best in history.  For the most part they are not remembered for their great accomplishments though, but for the very tragic way in which they perished.

On that fateful day in 1996, there were 23 people who made the summit on Everest–but 8 perished on the descent.  Read more

ExplorersWeb Taking a Stand…The Adventurist: A Call for Change

ExplorersWeb has published a very strong editorial today about people dying on Everest…Here is a question they pose:

“The questions is though, how many times will we have to witness a Kazakh, a Pole, a Spaniard or any other of the world’s foremost climbers rescue people in the death zone while we keep hearing amateur climbers (preferably Anglo-Saxon) and Everest business folks repeating into Discovery’s cameras that it’s impossible? “

This question of Ethics from such a highly public site as ExplorersWeb will definately be reverberated throughout the climbing community in the days ahead.

This Editorial comes on the heels of one I put up yesterday examining the same issue, yet in a slightly different way.

“David Sharp HAD to Die” goes in to detail about how the death of David Sharp is currently influencing the thoughts and a slight change of attitude that I think is taking place, regarding these high-altitude rescues and leaving people to die.

It is a controversial issue, I agree.

ExplorersWeb has called out a couple of people and expedition companies for the way that they handle their “business”, not only on Everest, but in the climbing community in general–when it comes to someone in trouble on the mountain.

I feel like change is starting to take place in the way people are now seeing these incidents–for years people have been told that in the Death Zone, that there is no chance for rescue…

Let me say that they may be right…but, how do you know that a life can not be saved unless you actually stop and give an effort?

Forty People walked by David Sharp.  Forty.  All on their personal mission to the summit.

I like to think that perhaps my editorial influenced ExplorersWeb to also express themselves publicly on this issue, but perhaps it isn’t an “influence”.  Perhaps there are more of us out there that are tired of seeing these people die needlessly–than was previously thought. 

IT IS TIME FOR CHANGE

In 2007, you can not tell me that we can not develope a system to get these people off of Everest or any other mountain where someone has been injured.

The technology is out there if people are willing to put it together in order to save a life.  The way rescues are carried out today is almost the exact same as it was twenty years ago.

A lot of people are influenced by what they hear–when they hear someone can’t be brought down from the Death Zone–they take that as fact, without questioning it, or for that matter, without trying.

The summit is the most important thing to those that are trying their luck at Everest.  Some that have been there say it isn’t, some that fail say it isn’t, but you would not spend that kind of cash to not have a shot at the summit–plain and simple.

Everest brings immediate fame and noteriety to those that succeed.  Everest is still portrayed as inaccessable, yet well over 200 people made it to the top last year alone.

If those 200 people had made a sacrifice of something that will still be there tomorrow–Everest’s Summit–then perhaps they could have saved even one life from perishing.

What is more important, The summit or a life?

Right now there are at least 4 different people having a lot of issues on Everest, according to their daily reports.  Some of them are so sick that they can do nothing but throw up, yet the summit lingers in their minds.  The summit. 

I can’t put all of the blame on the the one’s not in trouble.  The one’s in trouble sometimes put themselves in the position that they eventually find themselves in.

If you are unhealthy.  If your sickness has lasted longer than 2 days…then get off the mountian.  Your body obviously is already at the breaking point.  Suck it up and make a decision, get down to a lower level, and live to climb another day.

Everest eats people.  If you aren’t prepared in every way possible, you stand a good chance of dying come summit day.

Everyone needs to come together on this issue and take a stand.  People have died needlessly–people have been left behind.  Without making a second guess about these situations, people will continue to die needlessly.

David Sharp HAD to Die on Everest

People die on Mt. Everest.  That is a fact.  In fact until the last few years the statistic was that for every four people to make the summit, one would die.  In recent times (the 2007 Everest climbing season involves close to 1,000 individuals) that number has grown to one in twenty.

Last season brought the tragic death of David Sharp and the controversy of climbers not helping a fellow climber in need to the forefront of media institutions around the world.  Perhaps this is because people never  really knew what went on at 28,000 ft. or they never really thought about it until the media picked up the story.

I am not going to go in to detail on what happened to David Sharp.  By now the world over knows this story and  a year later it still lingers in the minds and bemoans an outpouring of controversy.  Everyone has an opinion.  I will leave it at that.

What I would like to mention is that David Sharp has not been the only climber to be left behind.  It has happened before and more than likely it will happen again.  Read more

Everest 2007: The Best of the Best

It has been said many times before–You can fake your way to Everest Basecamp, but once you hit that mountain the higher camps will show who you are and what you are made of…

Over the past couple of weeks The Adventurist has taken you from the trek in to Everest Basecamp on both the North and South sides, we guided you through the dreaded Khumbu Icefall–through the 32 unstable ladders connecting crevices with what some call land. 

The glacier moving and twisting, and if you miss your chance to cross, then tomorrow the Khumbu might take a different and more difficult form. Twenty-one people have died here before you…and one false step, one unstable gust of wind could make you number twenty-two.  

You slowly step across that last ladder–sweat beading on your forehead, your hands shakey–yet, you know you have made it this far and the trek to Camp 1 can’t be any harder than what you have already done.

Further on up you may have adjusted to Camp 1 and are now enjoying life thinking of what’s to come shortly.  If you are in one of the faster moving groups..you could be as far as Camp 2 and contemplating if you really have what it takes to mount a climb to the summit.

Many people are suffering.  The elevation seems to take your breathe away.  Each and every step is a struggle–and it won’t get any easier. 

You eat, bite by bite, but your body does not want to accept what you feed it in order to survive.  With each bite you gag.  You force it down knowing that if you don’t get the energy in some way, shape, or form that you could die.  You could die.

This is what makes Everest special. 

The personal challenge of accomplishing the unthinkable–being a part of History with the likes of George Mallory, Sir Edmund Hillary, Rob Hall, Scott Fischer–the names go on and on. 

Life is the challenge–but Everest is the topping on the cake.  It  seems such a shame that some of that cake gets dropped and trampled from time to time, eaten by the elements– minus 60 degree temperatures, 100+ mile an hour winds, and of course the never ending chance of a climber’s worst enemy–an avalanche.

At this point in time the higher camps are starting to weed out the people that are just not quite ready–maybe their focus hasn’t been as strong or maybe their bodies have just never been pushed to the utter limits before, whatever the case, many are rethinking what it is about Everest that has brought them here.

Is it a life statement?  Or did it just seem like something to do at the time?  Believe me, Everest will be making that statement for you very, very shortly.

April 26, 2007–Camp 3

A Sherpa dies after being buried in an avalanche.  This is the first death on Everest this season.  The mountain has made a statement.  ” You may climb me, but be forwarned–you won’t get up without a fight.”

Many teams are contemplating this exact scenario right now.  It scares some to death that their family and friends…their children may never see them again. 

“What happens if I die here?” they ask.  “Will it be fast and sudden or a dreaded two day struggle in The Death Zone?”

David Hahn knows what this struggle is about.  Today the lone person he was guiding on Everest turned back and high-tailed it off the mountain–leaving Dave alone.

Now Dave is no ordinary climber, in fact he has eight Everest summits to his credit, putting him up their with the likes of Ed Visteurs.

But now he is alone.

He came in as a guide and right now he is trying to decide if Everest’s call is stronger than his will.

Will he go for number 9?  Only time and some deep inner searching will reveal this to Dave in the next couple of days.

This is Everest 2007.  This is what it is all about. In the days ahead, there will be some triumphs..some you thought wouldn’t make it…will..others who were pretty much guaranteed a summit may die….and still others will never know what they could have achieved as their life quietly sinks in and they ask themselves “Why am I here?”

2007 will definately be something to behold.  A momment in time accepted into the history books…legends will be made, struggles will be had, but in the end–you will know who had what it took to become The Best of the Best.

Responsibility and Death on Everest: A Response Comes In…

Yesterday I posted an editorial titled “Responsibility and Death on Everest”.  I am not going to go back and rehash what was said, but I will let you click the title and read it for yourselves.

It seems like this issue is drawing some interest here as well as possibly opening up further dicussions in the climbing community.  My good friend Kraig over at “The Adventure Blog” quickly linked up to the story and shared his opinion on the issue I raised on his own site.  I thank him for sharing his personal insight into this discussion.

I have also been contacted by Jake Norton from Mountain World Productions.  Now those of you not familiar with Jake or his incredibly enlightening personal blog are in for a treat!

Here is a little background on Jake.  Jake Norton is an Everest Veteran.  He has been on five seperate expeditions to the world’s highest mountain, including 2 successful summits.  He has also participated in many expeditions all around the Himalayas.  Jake has been a mountain guide since 1993 working with some of the best companies in the business including Rainier Mountaineering and International Mountain Guides (IMG) to name a few.  Jake now spends his time as a professional climber, speaker, and photographer while also maintaining his Blog “The MountainWorld Blog”.

Here is what Jake Norton had to say about “Responsibility and Death on Everest”–

Thanks for your great post, and your excellent articles - lots of great information out here, and it is nice to see good opinion, thoughts, and ideas on Everest and climbing in general in a new format with fresh ideas! (And, thanks for the link to The
MountainWorld Blog!)

As an Everest veteran (5 expeditions, 2 summits, and many other trips to the Himalaya), I had some thoughts to share regarding the expedition leaders on Everest, Russell Brice, etc. Read more

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“One World, One Dream, Free Tibet 2008″

The above slogan landed 5 Americans in some deep trouble today on Mt. Everest’s North Basecamp as Chinese authorities detained them for protesting the Chinese Olympic Torch run up Mt. Everest for the 2008 Olympics.

It is pretty wide spread news that China is currently holding a “practice run” of the torch ceremony this season on Everest.

The activists, all members of “Students for a Free Tibet”, were staging a protest involving banners that proclaim ” One World, One Dream, Free Tibet 2008″.

The Chinese Olympic slogan for 2008:  “One World, One Dream.”

Many people have began to raise an issue with China over their use of Tibet as a site for part of their Olympic Torch run.  The activists claim that China’s use of Mt. Everest is being done to undermine the real issue of the people of Tibet, and that is their freedom and their country back.

For more on this, I will send you over to the Associated Press’ great story found HERE.

At this time, it is not currently known what will happen to these american activists.  It has been noted though that their passports have been taken away and they are still being held.

An ongoing battle has been raging since 1951 when China first came to occupy Tibet. 

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Responsibility and Death on Everest: An Adventurist Editorial

I am finding something a little bit disturbing as the 2007 Everest climbing season takes shape.  First, I am going to post three little snippets and then I will go in to more detail:

“Gazing up at the Col we were mesmerized by the slow train of “black dots”, gasping their way higher - sometimes so close together they looked conjoined. It looked to me as there were far too many climbers per rope section for things to be “safe” - it would only take one to slip and fall, dragging others, for the anchors to be ripped free from the ice owing to the obvious overload.”  David Tait

“Betsy raised everyone’s eyebrows when she tried to attach her crampons to her boots upside down. “I’m not a climber,” she later admitted, qualifying that ten years ago she wore crampons on a trekking peak in Nepal, but that guides and Sherpas had looked after her climbing needs.”  Discovery Channel Everest Team Blog

“Everest isn’t the place to learn how to climb. Betsy misrepresented her mountaineering experience to me.”   Himex Expedition Leader Russell Brice

First off, David Tait’s comment is not surprising.  I have mentioned previously how crowded Everest was going to be this season.  There are pretty close to 1,000 people on Mt. Everest right now stationed in various camps.

What does surprise me is that after so many previous problems with Expeditions trying to manuever large groups of people on Everest–that they are still doing this.  This is looking for a disaster! 

The ropes these climbers are currently using to move their way up higher on Everest are not made to support weight.  Yes, they are anchored in the ground…well, in ice and snow anyways, but as we all know ice and snow has a tendency to shift and melt.  These ropes are suppose to be used as guide ropes to keep people on track and let them know where they are going.

And David is right, one false move by someone higher up and…well it is just a disaster waiting to happen.

Secondly, David Tait is climbing with Russell Brice’s Himex team, which by the way is being filmed by The Discovery Channel this season for another episode of Everest: Beyond the Limits.

It seems that the Himex team, and maybe this is due to more publicity coming their way with the Discovery crew on hand, is having a problem with a couple of people and their general knowledge and know-how of mountain climbing.

With Russell Brice’s previous experiences on Everest it would seem that he would be taking better precautions against disaster, especially when his own Expedition Company is involved.

I don’t know Russell personally.  I have read about Russell though in print and on the internet and many people are pretty harsh on their feelings with him–the reasonings, I am not so sure of.  I know he was there for the David Sharp tragedy and I also know people were very critical for the way he handled things early on with this tragic death.

Everest has a magic that draws people in.  The life and death challenge–the struggle to accomplish something enormous in the world and leave a legacy of sorts behind.

A lot of people have questioned why some of these “inexperienced” climbers are allowed to attempt something that has brought about so much death to even some of the greatest of climbers, Rob Hall and Scott Fischer in ‘96 for example.

Plain and simple, money and prestige.  These companies earn tens of thousands of dollars per person for a try at the elusive and sometimes deadly Everest summit.

If disaster strikes someone with little experience, it is chalked up to “inexperience”, but my feelings on this are that the Expedition leaders must have a responsibility to know their clients and also know that their clients have previous experience in these sorts of situations.

Should a climber be blamed if they do perish on the mountain or should the Expedition leader in some way be held responsible if it is shown to be caused from a lack of experience from a climber on their team?

These are both tough questions.  The Expedition leaders are running a business.  They make money doing this for a living.  If someone asks me to take them to Everest and offers me $75,000 to do so, you bet I would do it.  Experience or no experience, $75,000 is a lot of money to turn away.

On the other hand, these people that are paying for this “experience” are buying the knowledge and know-how of these great climbers–in other words, putting their lives in someone else’s hands–and hoping that they may have an attempt to summit Everest.

Yes, everyone knows Everest can be deadly.  Every year people perish trying to accomplish their dreams, but year after year, more and more people are flocking for the opportunity that these climbs offer.

I personally feel that it should be the responsibility of the Expedition leaders to know who they are leading…and also have a say if that person should be allowed to continue on.  If one person puts themselves in danger, that is one thing.  If one person puts a whole party of say 20 people in danger than that person should be held accountable for their actions and not allowed to continue on.

As these climbing expeditions seem to get bigger and bigger every year, so are the inherit dangers.  As David Tait mentioned–one false move- and 20 people could die.  Who should be held responsible?  Plain and simple–the Expedition Leaders.

They are the ones in command.  They know the ins and outs of Everest like no one else–and they are being paid to provide the services they are giving. 

The Expedition leaders know, or they should anyways, when things are not looking good.  Twenty people on one line–the expedition leader should be held responsible for not sending up “groups” rather than the whole army at once, so to speak, and putting so many people’s lives in unnecessary danger.

I am not bashing on Himex or Russell Brice. These same scenes of overcrowding and climber “inexperience” are taking place in different camps and expeditions all over Everest at this time.  I am just afraid that hindsight is not being evaluated as strongly as foresight and it will continue to be this way until more lives are lost in what bystanders will later call a “predictable tragedy”.

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