William Brant Holland Officially Slapped With Two Year Himalayan Climbing Ban From Nepal

Nepal has made it official:  William Brant Holland, from the United States, has had his Nepali climbing privileges revoked for a two year period in the Himalayas.  His Charge: Violating the ‘One China’ policy that Nepal put in to place to protect the Chinese Mt. Everest expedition from any pro-Tibet, anti-Chinese disruptions.

William Brant Holland’s incident came about after authorities discovered a “Free Tibet” t-shirt in his backpack.  Along with the two year ban, Brant Holland’s expedition company was fined a total of $155 for not knowing the t-shirt was in his possession.

I have covered Brant Holland’s ordeal in quite detail.  You may read more HERE, HERE, and HERE.

Along with William Brant Holland, Josef Kubica, from Slovakia was also placed on a two year ban for not having an Everest climbing permit when he was approached while leading in to base camp.

To read more on both of these charges handed down by the government of Nepal, go check out The Peninsula.

Everest 2008: Alan Arnette’s Mountain of Politics

Mt. Everest took the world’s center stage in 2008. It was a year filled with intrigue, politics, high emotion and even higher crowds. The Chinese planned, and were successful, at taking the 2008 Beijing Olympics torch to the top of the world’s highest peak, yet, before all of that took place another theme prevailed–control.

China banned climbers from the north side of Mt. Everest. Nepal was pressured to do the same on the south. Through some meetings with officials, it was decided that climbers would be allowed to climb from the south as long as they followed a few rules along the way. Communications were locked down. Climbers were forced to the lower camps until May 10th, and if you mentioned the words China, Tibet, or Free Tibet, you were in jeopardy of losing your permit, as well as being banned from climbing in the area for up to two years. It was a silent year.

Alan Arnette came to Everest with high hopes. He had climbed peaks from around the world, some of the world’s tallest, in preparation for his 2008 expedition to Mt. Everest. This would be his third voyage. This time Alan wasn’t climbing for himself. He was climbing for something new and more invigorating, Alzheimer’s, a disease that was eating away at his mother. A disease with no cure. After the 2007 Mt. Everest climbing season, Alan Arnette announced that he was heading back.

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Astronaut, Mountain Climber, Dr. Scott Parazynski Sends Memorial Flags to Mt. Everest

Alexandria, VA - Dr. Scott Parazynski, a 16 year veteran of the NASA astronaut corps and avid mountain climber traveled to Mount Everest earlier this spring in hopes of ascending a mountain he had aspired to his whole life. While on the summit he had planned to tie off two special memorial flags in honor of fallen astronauts and cosmonauts. The flags were patterned after Tibetan prayer flags that dot the high summits and mountain passes of the Himalayas. In a recent letter to the families of Apollo 1, Challenger, Columbia, Soyuz 1 and Soyuz 11 crews, Dr. Parazynski wrote, “I couldn’t think of a better way to honor my heroes, your beloved family members, than on the apogee of the world’s highest mountain.”

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Dave Hahn Discusses 10th Summit of Everest

Dave Hahn captured his 10th successful summit of Mt. Everest in 2008. Dave became the first non-Sherpa climber to reach this plateau. He is still a bit off from the world record of 18 held by Apa Sherpa, but Dave still has plenty of time in the years ahead.

For the fourth consecutive year, Dave Hahn has posted his thoughts on this year’s climb to GreatOutdoors.com. In a year where communication troubles plagued many expeditions and other restrictions were enacted by Nepal in regards to the Chinese Olympic Torch bid, many of us had to resolve to scraping around what we could till many of the climbers got back on familiar turf. Dave now reports in on what it was like while he was there.

Dave actually reports of his displeasure of there being two different standards for records on Mt. Everest. One for Sherpa climbers, and another for non-Sherpas. With that being mentioned, we are now taking away that record from Dave. Just kidding. It is still a great feat, even if he is behind the “true” record of 18.

I do have to agree a bit with Dave on this subject.  Equality should be strived for no matter what religion, race, sexuality, or ability that a climber has.  On Everest, everyone is equal.  The experienced die, just like the inexperienced.

From Dave’s GreatOutdoors Dispatch:

Like I say though… I do like getting publicly recognized for something… even if it requires explaining away and disclaiming afterward. But my simply notching up a 10^th ascent wasn’t really the trick and shouldn’t surprise too many of my friends. At this point, with good health, I really ought to be able to drag my own carcass to the summit of Mt. Everest any number of times. After all, I’ve been up top in snowstorms and in darkness and while ill and injured and alone and from both Tibet and Nepal. I do know the way and I know how to sit back and let others do the hard work and trail-breaking and route-fixing. So planting my own two large feet at 29,000 ft again was really no big deal… honest.

Ummmm….Alright, now I am really thinking about taking that record away.  Really, no big deal?  What’s up with that Dave?

Perhaps he is trying to get clients geared up for next year when both sides will be fully open.  If he talks about how easy it is in the media, those with money looking for a cakewalk might be enticed to try something so simple as climbing Mt. Everest.  1 in 20 people who go for the summit DIE.  That is a fact.  Don’t let Dave or any of the other guides lead you to believe that this is a cakewalk.  There are real dangers of death–if you need proof, look no further than my report on Uwi Gianni Goltz who died this season.

Dave goes on to explain that his biggest achievement wasn’t his 10th summit, but rather leading the last of the  IMG team up to the top successfully on May 27th.  After reading Dave’s in-depth report, it looks like his summit bid was a little more harrowing than what Dave leads us to believe in the beginning, with bad weather, a close encounter with a rock fall, and finally the summit.

I take back my original thoughts and now give Dave a bit of credit.  He might be a bit smug over the summit ordeal, but if you read the rest of the post you will find out what Everest dished out to Dave this season and believe me, it was no cakewalk.  Nice report Dave.

While I am on the topic of Mt. Everest, I should have a post up tonight or tomorrow on Alan Arnette, and his big (alright, HUGE) report of this season with some of the political wranglings, insight, and even some chicanery with the Chinese military that was quite amusing.  Be on the lookout for that as I get some time today.

By the way, if you enjoy the Everest posts and dispatches, be sure to check out my previous coverage of Everest 2007 and Everest 2008.  If you want to get the latest Mt. Everest news, subscribe to my RSS Feed or my Email Newsletter.  Lastly, if you are thinking of heading to Everest in 2009, contact me via email at theadventurist@cliffhanger.com.  I offer up one of the top Mt. Everest coverage sites in the world and can help you out in regards to publicity, interviews, advertising etc.  Drop me a line, and I will see what we can do.

Cheers-

Everest 2008: Mike Browder, Climbing with Summitclimb Expedition, in Trouble on Everest–Updated

Breaking News–Breaking News–Breaking News

Continue Below For the Latest Update

Mike Browder, who is a part of the Summitclimb Expedition on Mt. Everest this season, is in trouble. He was going for a late season summit bid as Summitclimb, one of the last teams on Everest this season, was looking to finish up what had, thus far, been a successful expedition.

From SummitClimb (through EverestNews)

Mike Browder seems to be in trouble on the south summit. He’s with Pasang Sherpa and Lakpa Sherpa, two of our best. It seems he is snow blind, and they are trying to get him down. As soon as we heard the news, we sent two more sherpas, Gyelzen and Sangay up from camp 2 to camp 4 with extra oxygen, food, water, and emergency equipment. We are very worried and doing everything possible to get Mike down safely. Our prayers go out to Mr. Browder and the entire sherpa team. We will keep you informed.

Here are the details that I know. I know that this is an ongoing situation on Mt. Everest. Mike Browder had started his push for the summit on May 27, where he was sitting at the South Col with Pasang Gyalu Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa. At that point, he was looking good and everything was going as planned. At 6 am this morning, Mike, and his two climbing Sherpas arrived at the South Summit. The South Summit, is not THE summit of Mt. Everest. The South Summit is reached at an elevation of 28,700 feet. The “True” summit, or the one all climbers are striving for sits at 29, 029 Feet, just a couple hundred feet higher.

From this point on, the SummitClimb dispatches do not mention that Mike had made it to the summit of Mt. Everest. This is important to point out, only in the fact of where he could be positioned at this time, which, in the post above, is said to be the South Col at 28,700 Feet. Camp 4, where the additional Sherpa support have been dispatched with extra Oxygen, food, water, and emergency supplies sits at 26, 300 feet. When looking at the actual feet, or the distance one has to go from the South Col to Camp IV, you can think that this isn’t far at all and he should be fine, especially with the added support of his Sherpa team. Let me remind you, this is Mt. Everest. Mike is in the “death zone”, his body is shutting down, he is blind. Each step forward involves a break to gasp for air. The climb from Camp IV to the summit takes close to 12 hours on a good day, the return trip down can be done in four. All of this is not even mentioning the wind–which, from a couple different sources yesterday, had picked up quite a bit. -30 degree temperatures and winds in excess of 30-40 knots can definitely add a whole new degree of difficulty.

Hopefully Mike will be able to be bought down. Over the course of May 22-23, we heard of a few rescues taking place on Mt. Everest. Many of these involved climbers who had become snowblind. The reflection of the sun’s rays off the peaks snow and ice can be killer on your vision.

It is now 8am in the morning where I currently live, in the United States. In Nepal, it is roughly 6-7 pm. On Everest, climbers are expected to be back at Camp IV no later than 4 pm. This incident could very well be over. Mike could be sitting at Camp IV as we speak, but no update has been given. Given Sumitclimb’s experience in handling matters of this nature, hopefully Mike can be bought down safely and without to much drama. Would hate to end a pretty good year, as far as safety issues, on Mt. Everest with bad news.

I will try to keep you posted as I find out more.

_________________________________________________________________

For Latest Update–8:57 am May 29, 2008–Click Below

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Everest 2008: ‘Free Tibet’ Flies Over Everest, More Summits…

News from the world’s highest peak is starting to slow down a bit as the season draws to an end. I have already received my last weather report from EverestWeather for the season and most teams are currently heading down to base camp, or have already moved out. There has been some action of note though as a few teams were actually waiting on the crowds to die down a bit before pursuing their own summit pushes. On to the update..

‘Free Tibet’ Flies Over Everest

Here is an interesting bit of information from ExplorersWeb. With nearly 300 climbers summiting this year from Everest’s south, not one had chosen to make a political statement against China–even after restrictions were officially lifted–until now.

A member of the Peak Freaks expedition, Frenchman Dominique Gilbert, has released a photo of himself from the top of Everest holding a “Free Tibet” T-Shirt for his summit photo. If you will remember back about a month ago, an American climber, by the name of William Brant Holland, was swiftly escorted off the mountain after he was found with a “Free Tibet’ banner in his belongings. At the time of Holland’s dismissal, Nepal had strict restrictions in place to combat any attempt at protesting China’s Olympic Torch Relay, which was heading to the top of Mt. Everest.

With Nepal’s restrictions being lifted the same day that China made a successful summit with the Olympic torch, climbers were free to do as they pleased. Surprisingly, no one decided to make a statement other than this Frenchman, who on May 21st captured the summit and unfurled his message, “Games Over–Free Tibet.”

Rumors of Deaths on Everest

Over the past week, I have ran across a few newspaper articles and dispatches that proclaimed that up to Five climbers had died on Mt. Everest this season. These reports were being circulated after an eventful night, on May 22. With the crowds on the South side of Everest plaguing many teams, those stuck up in the higher altitudes simply had no place to go and couldn’t get anywhere fast. This lead to a some sticky situations involving quite a few high-risk rescue attempts over the course of a few hours. Luckily, most of these individuals were able to be rescued and brought to lower elevations. There was one casualty, Uwe Gianni Goltz, an experienced Swiss climber who was attempting Mt. Everest without supplemental oxygen. This still stands as the only death on Everest this season.

More Summits on Mt. Everest

Dave Hahn captured his 10th summit, which now puts him in the lead for western climbers on Mt. Everest. Dave’s feat came at 7:26 am today, when he called his IMG (International Mountain Guides) logistic team from the summit of Mt. Everest with the news. Dave summited with the rest of the IMG team and reported 5 mph winds from the summit. Others summiting with Dave Hahn today included Dave and Nicky Messner, Samduk Dorje, and Phinjo Dorje.

Speaking of summits, The Mallory Family, who does not know if they are related to the late George Mallory who died on Mt. Everest in 1923, summited three members on May 25th. EverestNews is reporting this latest update from the Mallory family:

I have some good news. This morning at 8:00 a.m. local time, Dan, Alan, and Adam Mallory summited Everest. I just spoke with them on the radio. They are doing fine and they will soon start their descent. Unfortunately Laura Mallory left camp 4 last night, but didn’t feel too good so she turned around. She wants to try again this evening without a sherpa. Also, Linda turned around last night and she’s back safely in camp 4.

Today Michael left for camp 3 and he’s going for his summit attempt too.

I am not sure if this is a record for one family in one season. I am sure it has to come close. Does anyone else know more on this info? Let’s hope Michael, who is said to be shooting for the summit today, will be successful and safe, as well.

Dawa Stephen Sherpa

Dawa Stephen Sherpa, who is leading the Eco-Everest Expedition, has claimed a double summit this year. His first came about a week and a half ago when Dawa summited Lhotse, Everest’s close neighbor. Then it was off to Everest. At 6:55 am, Nepal Time, Dawa made it to the summit of Mt. Everest on May 26th. Great job and a true showing of endurance. Two 8,000 meter peaks in as many weeks is quite a challenge, but as we know, the Sherpa people are known for their accomplishments in the rugged Himalayas.

Still A Few More Summit Pushes Taking Place

With the end looming on Everest for another season, most climbers have already topped out and are headed back to Kathmandu and the return trip home. Towards the end of May and the first week or two of June, most concerns in the area will fall towards the encroaching monsoon season of the area. Last year, Conrad Anker led a late season push for the summit going in to the first week of June. This season there are still a couple of expeditions currently trying to reach the top.

Those climbers, who include Brazilians Rodrigo Ranieri and Eduardo Keppke are currently sitting at Camp 4 and should be making their final assault towards the summit at any time. Let’s wish them the best of luck.

The End

Even though the end of the season is lurking around the corner, as The Adventure Blog notes, many of the stories and complications, as well as the “true” story of what occurred this season on Mt. Everest will not be known till the climbers are all back on home grounds. We look forward to hearing from the Peak Freaks team, who have alluded to some bigger issues this season, as well as my good friend Alan Arnette’s in-depth perspectives.

I will continue to offer up the latest updates as they occur, also, within the next week I will probably be doing my season ending summary covering all aspects of this season. Stay tuned, it’s not quite over yet-

Sources: EverestNews, ExplorersWeb, The Adventure Blog,

Everest 2008: Yuichiro Miura Summits Mt. Everest at 75 Years Old

We have had two climbers, in as many days, summit Mt. Everest who are well in to their 70’s.  First came the news yesterday that Min Bahadar Surchan made a successful summit.  He just happened to be 76 years old and also the newest member of “The Oldest Person to Summit Everest” Club.  He set a new benchmark by breaking the old record set the year before–before that, yeah, it was broken in 2006, as well.  IT seems to be the new “in” thing.

Another person attempting to set the record, Yuichiro Miura, missed it by less than a year.  If Yuichiro could have summited two days ago, he could have at least had the record for a day.  That wouldn’t be the case though, and Yuichiro Miura has to accept the fact that he is only the second oldest person to ever top out on Everest.  Not a bad feat, itself.

Yuichiro Miura, who had been attempting to summit Mt. Everest with his son, had to settle with topping out with a few Sherpa friends.  His son was forced to down climb to a lower camp yesterday after showing signs of HACE.  Luckily, he is now alright and recovering while cheering on his father.

Kyodo News has the first reports of Yuichiro Miura’s successful summit, while ExplorersWeb has a special article up right now on the two septugenarians and their attempt to break the record for being the oldest person in the world on top of Mt. Everest.  Congratulations needs to go to both of these guys for helping to inspire the older generation to not give up on their dreams.

By the way, Yuichiro Miura has summited the world’s highest peak a couple of times in the past.  In 1978, Miura recieved international attention for becoming the first person to ever ski down the Lhotse Face of Everest after a successful summit.  In 2003, he once again made it to the top, and at that point, was listed as the oldest person to ever summit Mt. Everest.  Will be interesting to see if these two guys, battling for the record to be the oldest. will be back next season, as well.  That could be fun to watch as the next few years go by.  Nothing like a race to be the oldest.  I never really liked races much…

Everest 2008: Mother-Daughter Team Summits Mt. Everest and Conquers Seven Summits

The new records on Mt. Everest continue to fall this year. A Mother-daughter combo from Australia have become the first such team to summit the world’s highest peak, together. Cheryl Bart and her 23 year old daughter Nikki reached the summit at 9:05 am on Saturday.

While achieving one record on Mt. Everest is always a pretty cool thing, Cheryl and Nikki have actually broken another, as well. They have also become the first mother-daughter combo to reach the highest peak on each of the seven continents. The Seven Summits.

From Australian News:

The pair left Camp Four at about 10 p.m. Australian time on Friday for the final climb to the summit, and it took them a little over eleven hours to achieve the the landmark feat.

Reaching the top not only gives them an Everest record, but also gives them the record of completing what is every climbers’ dream set.

The pair has already climbed to the top of Australia’s Mount Kosciuszko (2228m), Antarctica’s Vinson Massif (4897m), South America’s Aconcagua (6962m), Africa’s Kiliminjaro (5895m), North America’s McKinley-Denali (6195m) and Europe’s Elbrus (5642m).

A big congratulations to this adventurous pair on a remarkable run to the top of the Seven Summits! Very cool!

Everest 2008: Min Bahadur Sherchan Becomes Oldest Person To Summit Mt. Everest at 76

A 76 year old Nepali man can now claim the record for being the oldest man to summit Mt. Everest. Min Bahadur Sherchan reached the summit today, along with four other climbers, and is now in the process of descending back to Camp IV.

Many Nepalese have established records on Mount Everest,” Sherchan had told journalists. “The record for the oldest climber to reach the summit of Mount Everest should also belong to a Nepali.

Sherchan’s record-breaking summit comes just one year after 71year-old Japanese climber Katsusuke Yanagisawa claimed the record in 2007.  Sherchan’s attempt was meant to inspire senior citizens, as well as the youth of his native homeland of Nepal.

Another climber, 75 year-old Yuichiro Miura, is currently on his summit push of Mt. Everest, as well.  He was hoping to break his fellow Japanese climber’s record, but looks like that has already been done.  He could still become the second oldest person to summit, as well as the oldest Japanese climber to summit.

Everest 2008: Sir Ranulph Fiennes’ Everest Dreams Over–He Descends

The Adventure Blog made me aware of this bit of information concerning the ongoing expedition of Sir Ranulph Fiennes. It seems like Fiennes, one of the world’s top adventurers, has called it a day on Mt. Everest and abandoned his summit attempt. I will let Sir Ranulph Fiennes speak for himself though this live footage posted today from Mt. Everest:

He said that if he had the chance to gain an extra night’s sleep, than he might have been better prepared for the summit push, but as these things often go, that high-altitude plays a big part in success.

I did do a spot on this expedition earlier in the year. Fiennes was attempting to summit Mt. Everest for the first time, even though this was his second trip to the highest mountain in the world. His first trip ended much like this one, with him having to bail out at the last minute. Fiennes was climbing for the Marie Curie Cancer Care Fund, and does state that the flag from the organization was taken to the summit by two of his fellow team members–so, in part, it was a successful expedition, but I think many of us were hoping he would get to the top. He has been to both poles previously, as well as holding a host of other adventure records.

If you click HERE, you can read up a bit more on this amazing adventurer, as well as watch a 10 minute interview with him that was conducted prior to him leaving for Everest. He is currently safe in the lower camps of the south side of Everest and will probably be making his way back home shortly. It is a lot longer process to get on the mountain, than it is to leave, as we heard from Alan Arnette’s audio update today.

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