Everest 2008: Climbers will be screened, Officers Stationed at ABC, and more from Nepal..

Next year’s spring Everest season is already drawing quite a bit of interest in the media around the world.  With China planning on running the Olympic Torch to the top of Everest from the North and rumors flying about a possible limit on Expeditions taking place on both sides, we now have a few answers coming from Ang Tshering and ExplorersWeb concerning this issue.

Ang Tshering, chairman for Asian Trekking and President of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, has written in to ExplorersWeb with some news regarding these issues.

First up, Tshering confirms that there will be no limit as to the amount of expedtions taking place on Everest’s South Side.  He does add though that only well-funded, big outfits, with plenty of experience will be allowed to attempt the sacred peak.  Another change of note:  In order to have the chance to climb on Everest next season,  your expedition must not have more than three seperate nationalities taking part.  Originally this was noted as one, but was quickly revised after it was noted that Sherpa climbers who accompany each trip up Everest is, in itself, a seperate nationality and thus would not be allowed to take part.

You will also have to now have your plans in place for the trip to Everest at least two months prior to making the journey.  Which is usually customary anyways when involved with a big expedition.

Another problem arising from this past season on Everest was theft of equipment and misconduct.  Ang Tshering has stated that the CTMA will be taking ’stern action’ against anyone involved in such activities.  They will also be placing liason officers at Advanced Basecamp to help in their efforts to curb such actions from happening on Everest in 2008.  Both the NMA and Nepali authorities have given support to this idea.

It is also being noted that Nepal is considering dropping the price of Everest expeditions in the very near future.  They are asking for input regarding this matter from climbers.  Ang Tshering is personally wanting to hear your voice and may be reached at angtshering@asian-trekking.com , office@nepalmountaineering.org , or peaks@nma.wlink.com.np

EverestNews Inciting Controversy with Editorial and a Response by The Adventurist

I recently headed over to EverestNews to check out what was going on at their site.  Needless to say, I was quite surprised by a small editorial piece they are currently featuring titled Everest Rumors, Lies, and Ridiculous Stories.

This is based on a few reports that this editorial is claiming as false.  First off, it denies an increase in fees leveled by the Chinese Government this past season on Everest.  It then goes into detail about many sites broadcasting rumors and lies, specifically mentioning the possible closing of the North side of Everest by the Chinese for the forthcoming 2008 Olympics.

EverestNews goes on the record as saying Everest’s North side will be open to climbers in the coming 2008 season and the number of climbing permits given will not be limited in scope due to the 2008 Olympics.  They also go on record as saying that the rumors of China trying to negotiate the closure of Mt. Everest’s South side, via Nepal, is also completely false.

EverestNews Claims the Following Regarding Fees:

Stories that the fees in China were increased several times over were also spread, FALSE again. Why? Guides did raise fees which one would assume resulted in much higher profits… For most independents and operators the Chinese took a minor fee increase.. One must wonder what is the agenda here? To get traffic to web sites? To get published in rags? To help raise profits for some? What???

EverestNews is crediting CTMA and CMA as being two of the reliable sources that this information is coming from:

The CTMA and CMA appear to be getting pissed off by all these rumors, lies and ridiculous stories… Including false stories about climbers, who grow in number year by year… This will probably result in changes from the Chinese many of us might not like….

Last year’s “High-Altitude Free Tibet Protest on Mount Everest!” which was a “set up” where Americans went to China to get arrested and were successful is expected also to cause more tension for the Chinese and climbers which combined with these ridiculous stories will result in tougher standards on entering for 2008….

Now a Few Words From The Adventurist

First off, the CMA respectively refers to the Chinese Mountaineering Association and the CTMA refers to the China Tibet Mountaineering Association.  Now that we know that all of this information is respectively coming from China we may make a few comments.

EverestNews is based out of Granville, Ohio–The United States.  Why would such a site be bowing down to a communist regime in regards to it’s editorials? 

If you go back and read the article as it is printed on the site, you can plainly see that this little bit of marketing by the two forementioned climbing associations in China is nothing more than Chinese Propoganda.  Yes, they might be pissed off at the press, but you do have to remember that China is hosting the upcoming 2008 Olympics and with all of the recent bad publicity regarding China of late, it is no wonder that they would put out a piece questioning the recent rash of bad publicity.

Regarding the climbing fees–on more than one occassion this past year, climbers were told, once they got to China, that their fees would be anywhere from $1000-$3,000 more than what was quoted before they left for the climb.  This information is documented in the climber’s expedition blogs rather substantially.  This did not just happen to US climbers, but even some expeditions from the Philipines and so forth.  This is documented and this information that EverestNews has released bears no weight.  Tell us the sources and give us the figures–until the proof is out there on such matters, it will remain the same.  Too many climbers were claiming the same problem:  A rise in climbing fees after they arrived to get their liscence, which was unmerited beforehand.

As far as the Chinese trying to close the North or the South sides of Mt. Everest for next season.  This news, as I myself have also mentioned, has come not only from the United States press, but also the Press organizations from around the world, including Nepal.  It is known that the Nepali Government was approached with an offer to shut off the South side as well…even though, this offer by the Chinese could have fallen through in the last few days.

Next, we come to a couple of possible threats handed out by the CMA and the CTMA about possible changes taking place over the 2008 Everest season.  These changes are in reference to the “One World-Free Tibet Protest” that took place this year, as well as the Chinese becoming “pissed off” at the stories and rumors coming from Mt. Everest.  They claim this protest was a simple “set-up” to get the organization holding the protest arrested, and in a sense..free publicity.  That may very well be the case, but in another note, the “Free Tibet” campaign has been going on for well over 50 years now.  Each year new protests are enacted to bring the Chinese occupation of Tibet to the limelight.  It just so happens that this years protest took place while China was trying to do their initial Olympic Torch training run to the top of Mt. Everest.

What the CMA and the CTMA are essentially doing is giving themselves an excuse to deny liscences to climbers in the upcoming 2008 season.  They will base this denial on the rumors and lies of the foreign nations trying to take part in next years Everest season, as well as political turmoil of not knowing exactly what people are planning on doing.

While the supposed facts being represented on EverestNews merit no basis, it boggles my mind that an American Company such as EverestNews has seemingly given the Chinese Government an outlet for their remarks–given the Chinese’s past record.

Anyone remember Nangpa La?  Last year the Chinese military opened fire on a group of people trying to cross from Tibet to Nepal–essentially political refugees trying to leave a country they despised–some were shot in the open, in front of 60 or so climbers–including a nun who was mortally shot and killed.  After this incident, the Chinese Military seemingly invaded the ABC camp and essentially looked things over and waited.  They had captured some 30 odd children, women, and men, and taken them into custody as well.

Many people are scared of speaking out against the Chinese.  The guides could very easily lose their bid to attempt Everest and other peaks in the Chinese Himalayas if they don’t keep their mouths shut about such incidents when they do take place.  China has essentially used political power and intimidation factors to keep the “real” stories on Everest and other peaks silent.

Nangpa La was real.  Photos confirm the merciless killings.  Still climbers involved in the incident from around the world are reluctant to speak out against the Chinese.

In 2007 the Chinese Basecamp at Everest featured a security fence and armed guards.  N0 one was allowed around their encampment and secrecy was held as an asset.  At one point a couple of climbers got stranded high on Everest and the Chinese refused to take part in any kind of search and rescue efforts.  This should clue you in a bit on their priorities.  China is about China.  They protect through armed tactics and intimidation. 

So why would EverestNews take a stand and essentially side with them by posting this very Pro-China editorial?  The editorial even fails to mention who the writer was.  I feel the reason may be as simple as the 2008 Olympics.  They are positioning themselves to be “the source” of news and info coming out of China.  On the otherhand, by taking such matters and putting themselves in the public light with such a controversial move, I can not see how this will benefit them at all.  They may get the news coming from China, but at the same time they are alienating the climbers from around the world that understand the tactics China uses in an effort to “control”.

EverestNews makes the following question regarding the rumors, lies, and deceptions and the press that has put them out.

One must wonder what is the agenda here? To get traffic to web sites? To get published in rags? To help raise profits for some? What???

I am only speaking for myself at this time.  I have no advertisers.  I have no site sponsors.  Trying to draw traffic to a site such as this one has no meaning.  It does not benefit me in the slightest.  On the contrary, by putting up an editorial that questions the basis of information regarding Everest and other mountains–by saying they are lies, rumors, and so forth–we do need to question these intentions–EverestNews is essentially questioning the same people that they get all of their information from–The climbing expedition blogs.  They post no news that isn’t spoken first-hand from the Expeditions themselves on their own sites–and they do so 90% of the time word for word.  So who is to blame for the lies, rumors, and so forth?  Rather than calling out people that you yourselves rely on for information–perhaps you should look at yourselves.  This is a weak and futile attempt at bringing in viewers that already question your standards in the field.  China or no China, by printing the threats and “control” tactics, you are becoming nothing more than one of the many puppets you are trying to speak out against.  Just something to think about.

Mt. Everest to Close to Climbers in 2008?

It is well known that China is planning on running the Olympic Torch to the summit of Mt. Everest in 2008 leading into the 2008 Olympics being held in Beijing.

This past April and May a Chinese Expedition team made a successful run at the summit proving that it is possible.  17 members successfully summited.  The Chinese were able to prove that the Olympic Torch would burn in the Mt. Everest altitude.

Early on in the 2007 season, it was revealed that China may indeed be trying to close down the North side to further climbers and expeditions.  Now it is being revealed that China is also in negotiations with Nepal—looking to close the South Side of Everest as well while the torch is making it’s way to the top.

The China/Tibet Mountaineering Association (CMA/TMA ) are now reportedly also negotiating with Nepal, asking them to help “close” the peak from both sides during the Olympic torch team’s summit push next year.

This information is coming from an article currently on the front page of MountEverest.net.  The article was actually discussing the merits of lowering fees for climbers on Mt. Everest in the fall and winter to promote more expeditions to take place at this time.  It just kind of jumped out at me.

What would this mean to all of the Expeditions that take place in the spring if Everest is essentially cut off from climbers while the chinese are there?

We all know that this previous expedition by the chinese was a “trial” run.  For this Expedition, the chinese Basecamp was enclosed by fencing as well as having armed guards present…

Next year promises to be completely mad–and perhaps on both sides.  Hopefully Nepal won’t fall to intimidation or money factors and rightfully stand their ground.  I am sure we will all be waiting to see how this eventually developes as Expedition companies plan their trips well in advance of the coming trips in 2008..

I was also curious as to why the South Side might need to be closed off as well–could the Chinese be planning a historic North to South Traverse? 

Harassment on the High Peak: When an Everest Guide Does You Wrong

For many of us, coming up with the $40-50,000 to take a once in a lifetime gamble on Mt. Everest seems like a lifetime away.  What if you spent that kind of cash only to be told that you weren’t climbing?  What if you spent that kind of cash, the guide tells you “No Go”, then deliberately grabs your belongings and scatters them throughout camp?  While he is at it, he might as well do it in front of not only your team, but a film crew to boot and show the whole world how worthless you really are..

This is the news coming from Betsy Huelskamp.  Many of you may remember Betsy as the tough and rugged mountain climbing biker chic that began an Expedition this year with Russell Brice’s Himex Team.  If any of you followed the Expedition’s climbing blogs on Everest this season, then you would have probably thought of Betsy as Himex did:  slow, didn’t know anything about mountaineering–including how to put her crampons on…as well as a bit self-involved.

Well, Betsy has decided to fight back.  The picture she paints is quite different than what Himex would have you believe.  She breaks down everything from the beginning stages where she first contacted Russell Brice about joining the expedition, and Russell seemingly accepts at a reduced rate of nearly 50%–to the final decision to not let her go for the summit push, and the subsequent temper tantram that ensued and left Betsy’s belongings scattered throughout the camp.

If this sounds like odd behavior coming from a guide on Mt. Everest, then perhaps you should reevaluate who you align yourself up with for that big Everest Adventure. Read more

Jon Krakaur vs. Anatoli Boukreev

Alright, now I have got your interest.  Just about everybody in the climbing world knows of the Mt. Everest tragedy that the above title speaks of…May 10-11, 1996, 12 people perished in perhaps the worst climbing accident in history.  Much has been published, this story has been well publicized–yet to this day it still draws condescending and conflicting emotions.

Jon Krakaur, the bestselling author of Into Thin Air, and Anatoli Boukreev, author of the responding bestseller The Climb, have both pitched their versions of the story– Read more

Lincoln Hall “Dead Lucky” on Everest

 

Lincoln Hall Was Dead

May 25, 2006 will go down as one of those days in mountaineering history where nothing seemed to be going right–but then the miracle happened..

Stranded in the death zone, 250 meters from Mt. Everest’s famed summit…Lincoln Hall was lost.  A group of Sherpas climbing with Hall made the decision to descend without him.  If they stayed, they would die as well..but if they left they would have a chance, but Lincoln Hall would perish.  They left.

Lincoln Hall was a famed climber from Australia. He already had one Everest summit attempt to his credit in 1984–that attempt ended with him turning back near the summit due to illness. In 2006 he was heading back–not for himself, but as a favor–he was going to be a cameraman on a new documentary about Everest.

After reaching the famed Everest summit, Lincoln Hall began his descent.

High on Everest’s slope, Lincoln Hall came down with Pulminary Edema–a climber’s worst nightmare.  The lungs slowly fill with fluid, cutting off your ability to breathe, leaving you with a slow gurgling death in freezing temperatures.  Not a fun way to die–

The decision to leave Lincoln Hall high on Everest is nothing new.  When a Climber goes down in the death zone, it is pretty well known that your chances of getting back down are slim to virtually none.  Are you to die as well, or walk away?  It is just a part of mountaineering. 

Lincoln Hall’s death was broadcast the world over.  This report comes from ExplorersWeb and goes through a momment by momment synopsis of what occured on this tragic day as it was happening.

A day later, ExplorersWeb released another report.

Lincoln Hall was Miraculously Still Alive

Lincoln Hall had survived a night with Pulmonary Edema.  A climber heading towards the summit had noticed Lincoln Hall and made a dispatch to camp.  A massive rescue attempt was enacted and underway.

Lincoln Hall was eventually rescued and brought back to safety.  He was partially blinded, suffering from pulmonary Edema, and had frostbite on both of his hands and feet and part of his face.

But he had survived.

Lincoln Hall ended up losing his fingers to frostbite and eventually had to have them amputated.

His story is the miracle.  He was one of very few people to ever come out of the death zone after 24 hours alive.  He was reported as dead.  Friends, family and associates all thought he was dead. Lincoln Hall was the only one that knew he was still alive.

Dead Lucky

Lincoln Hall has just published a book about this whole ordeal called “Dead Lucky”–which promminently features a photo of him on the cover lifting his hand, with amputated fingers, and a smile on his face.  He, as well as the world, knows why this momment could bring a smile–He was Alive and lived the tale that he has now had published.

This is not Lincoln Hall’s first book, as a matter of fact it is his eighth book. He was already an acclaimed Mountaineering journalist–but on the evening of May 15, 2006–it all became so very real.  This is his first attempt to put this whole story together and try to come to grips with what could have very well been a tragedy.

I encourage all of you to pick up this book and find out what true survival and the will of man can accomplish.

 

This book was released in May 2007 through Random House Australia.  It has a cover price of $34.95

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

BREAKING NEWS UPDATE: Body of Christine Boskoff Found

In December of 2006, two high profile climbers Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler went missing in the Sechuan Province of China.

The subsequent news of this event shook the climbing community to it’s foundation.  At the time in December 2006, much of the world was focused on three lost climbers on Mt. Hood in Oregon and the ensuing Rescue mission that eventually turned into a Recovery.

Charlie Fowler, a world reknown climber and photographer, along with Christine Boskoff, a World class climber in her own right and subsequent owner of Mountain Madness, one of the world’s leading mountain expedition companies,  set out to claim some unchartered peaks in China.  A vacation they had been planning on for two years.

The two soon dissappeared and an all out search effort ensued in China with little media coverage.

On December 29, 2006 Charlie Fowler’s body was found on Genyen Peak, but there were no signs of Christine.

On January 2, 2007 the search for Christine Boskoff was essentially called off with her being presumed dead.

On July 8th 2007, Everest is Ours, A Blog discussing Mt. Everest and the Climbing world made a post about the continued search for Christine Boskoff.  You may find that HERE.

Also this month Climbing Magazine, which I am a subscriber also ran a story about Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler and the continued efforts to find Christine.

Today it is being reported by Mountain Madness President Mark Gunlogson that Christine Boskoff’s Body has been found near where Charlie Fowler’s was found last December.

Here is Mountain Madness’ Complete Press Release:

SEATTLE July 9, 2007 – The body of accomplished US climber Christine Boskoff was found in the mountains of southern China on July 3rd, local China time.  The search and recovery team supported by Mountain Madness, the Seattle-based adventure guide company owned by Boskoff, resumed their search for Boskoff last May on the remote mountain peak of Genyan Massif in Sichuan Province. 

Last November, Boskoff and her climbing partner Charlie Fowler, also a renowned high-altitude mountain climber, were on a personal climbing expedition in Sichuan Province when the pair failed to return to the U.S.  Fowler’s body was recovered on December 27th, and search crews ceased their efforts to search and recover Boskoff until the spring due to winter weather.  Both are believed to have died in an avalanche.

“We resumed the search and recovery efforts for Chris once the weather improved and rock fall hazards lessened,” said Mark Gunlogson, president of Mountain Madness.  “This latest news brings closure to what was a great loss for her family, friends, Mountain Madness and the climbing community.  Chris lived life to the fullest and she died doing what she loved best in one of her most favorite places to climb.” 

“Chris established a legacy as one of the most successful female high altitude mountaineers in history, having climbed six 8,000 meter peaks including two successful ascents of Everest. She brought her tremendous climbing experience, unique humility for someone so accomplished, and love of the mountains to Mountain Madness and its many clients where she built one of the world’s foremost climbing organizations. We will miss her enthusiasm and infectious smile, but will continue to draw upon her spirit as we move forward,” said David C. Jones, Mountain Madness board member. 

A memorial fund to benefit Room to Read has been set up in Boskoff’s name to benefit school children in Nepal.  Boskoff was a former board member of the non-profit organization that helps establish schools, libraries and other educational infrastructures in developing countries.  Room to Read is building a school in Nepal in Boskoff’s honor.  Donations to the Boskoff memorial fund, as well as surplus funds from the Boskoff-Fowler search and recovery fund, will go to support the school in Nepal and scholarships for girls throughout the country.

“She was passionate about climbing and her love of the people and the cultures she traveled to, especially the children of Nepal and we’re honored to be a part of this lasting memorial for Chris,” said John Wood, founder and chief executive officer of Room to Read.  “She was selfless in pursuit of our mission and passionate in her belief that children throughout the developing world should have access to great schools, teachers, libraries and books.”

To support the Boskoff memorial fund donations can be made at www.roomtoread.com or by sending a check to: 

Room to Read – Mountain Madness Appeal
The Presidio
PO Box 29127
San Francisco, CA 94129

About Mountain Madness:
Founded in 1984, Mountain Madness is an adventure guide travel service and mountaineering school based in Seattle, Washington.  The company provides adventure-guided expeditions in Africa, Antarctica, Asia, Europe, North America, South America and Oceania, as well as courses in rock climbing, avalanche and skiing.  For more info: www.mountainmadness.com

Contact:
Mark Gunlogson
Mountain Madness
206-937-8389
markg@mountainmadness.com

(Editor’s Note:  This article was compiled from information obtained from the following sources:  The Adventure Blog, the Everest is Ours Blog, and the MountainMadness Website as well as information contained here in The Adventurist.)

If you would like to catch up on the search for Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler, you may do so by clicking the following link for The Adventurist’s full coverage.

Free Climbing Everest’s Second Step: Controversy of Historical Proportions

The Background 

In 2007 a special expedition was undertaken to climb Mt. Everest in the same fashion–literally–as George Mallory and Andrew Irvine did in 1924.  This expedition was being led by Conrad Anker, the famous discoverer of George Mallory’s body on Everest in 1999.

For those of you not up to date on your Everest history, Mallory and Irvine perished on their fateful attempt to summit Mt. Everest leaving a slew of mystery in the wake of that fateful day in 1924.  Mallory and Irvine were close.  Real close, as a matter of fact, to becoming the first people to ever step foot upon Everest’s summit.

With the discovery of George Mallory’s body in 1999, more interest in Mallory and Irvine’s Expedition in 1924 has caught wind.  Did they summit or didn’t they?  There is perhaps one piece of evidence that could put this mystery to rest…yet it has never been found.  The Camera.  Mallory and Irvine carried a camera with them on their expedition.  It has led many to discuss the merits of the discovery of this holiest of Mt. Everest grails.  After 80 years in the blistering cold of Mt. Everest, could this camera inevitably hold the photos that would put this controversy to rest?  No one knows.

The Expedition

Conrad Anker set his sights on mounting an Expedition using the same equipment and clothing used in 1924 to see if a summit of the world’s tallest peak was actually plausible in 1924.  His attempt would be documented and filmed for a documentary and take place after the 2007 Everest season was essentially over.  This strategy basically would leave the slopes of Everest as they were in 1924–bare. 

Conrad Anker enlisted the help of a high-altitude newcomer named Leo Holding.  Leo Holding would be taking the role of ‘Sandy’ Irvine, where Anker would be climbing as George Mallory for their documentary.

Their climb began great but soon it became evident that their clothing and equipment could not stand up to the bitter cold and elements seen on Mt. Everest.  Anker and Holding had no other choice but to switch to their “High-Tech” climbing gear.

This in and of itself would lead many to believe that Mallory and Irvine would have been in deep trouble way before the summit, but there was still another interesting point to be made with this Expedition.

The Second Step

In order to recreate the Mallory and Irvine Expediton it was decided early on to climb without using “fixed lines”.  Anker and Holding would have no safety net.  This included  going over an area called “The Second Step”, without the use of ladders that were currently in place to allow climbers easier access of this treacherously steep part of the mountain.

Mallory and Irvine would have had to do the same, relying only on their equipment in hand and their sheer will to traverse this difficult area.  Could it be done?

The Controversy Brews

Conrad Anker and Leo Holding were successful in navigating the Second Step.  Within a matter of days news began to circulate that Conrad Anker and Leo Holding had done what seemingly no others had done before them.  Climbed the Second Step without support.

Miss Elizabeth Hawley, the famed Everest Expediton Recorder and Journalist seemingly stated that this feat had not been done since a Chinese Expediton in the 1960’s.

Kraig, from The Adventure Blog, was the first to notice some discrepencies coming in the reporting.  ExplorersWeb posted an article the same day mentioning:

Earlier today, Pete Poston reminded how Theo Fritsche had free-climbed the Step back in 2001, without supplementary O2. Poston based the information on interviews by Austrian Jochen Hemmleb.

In an email to ExWeb today Jochen also mentions a previous free-climb of the infamous rocky outcrop, achieved in full-monsoon conditions and w/o O2 by Spaniard Oscar Cadiach.

The Adventure Blog questioned ExplorersWeb on this issue, which in turn made it a very public issue with many people from the climbing community chiming in.

Why Is this Issue Important?

Facts on Mt. Everest have the tendency to get blurred, scrutinized, and even changed.  This is not something that is new.  Climbers are very often in the position with few others around to back their stories.

All we have to go on is the history that has been placed before us.  Mt. Everest is a place like few others.  Many people try to make their own mark on Mt. Everest every year by being the first…the fastest…the highest…

Without proper dialogue and questioning of facts, Mt. Everest becomes a very tough place to follow along with.  In keeping with the true spirit of Everest it is essential that these facts be researched and laid out before becoming a public vocal point for the “Prove you right or wrong” crowd.

Miss Elizabeth Hawley and ExplorersWeb are very much two of the top news sources for the climbing community.  Each of them are well respected for their Integrity and News Reporting, yet over this issue they had conflicting reports that were essentially being given to the public at a cost that arose doubt within the historic confines of Mt. Everest and the public that finds this of interest.

Kraig at The Adventure Blog done a fantastic job of reporting on this difference of historic opinions, representing both sides to it’s fullest extent and staying with this story as it developed.  If you would like to read his full coverage and see where it leads, check out his June Archives for 2007.

Alan Arnette’s Denali Health Scare and Update

We have all been following along with my good friend Alan Arnette and his year long effort that will hopefully land him back on Mt. Everest for a third time.

This past week Alan was doing a “training” climb on Mt. Denali, North America’s tallest peak.  He seen this as a stepping stone to his eventual goal–but the stepping stone decided to give Alan a run for his money, as we will see.

From Alan Arnette’s Post:

We climbed higher and soon I could see the top of the headwall at 16,100’. I was feeling strong, comfortable and confident. Actually I was enjoying the climb and feeling secure - then it happened.  

A hit to my stomach that took my breath away. I stopped in my tracks bringing my rope to an abrupt halt. I bent over to catch my breath. What the Fu*K? I asked myself.

I pushed as I consider what was happening. Was I drinking enough? I had a liter at breakfast and another half at the break. Eaten enough? Cream of wheat for breakfast and a Cliff Bar an hour ago. Warm enough? Yup, needed to zip down to stay cool and was comfortable. OK, covered the basics, what else. I felt like I had diarrhea. What had I eaten… the same as the others. So, probably no food problem including food poisoning.

Needless to say, the next few hours seen Alan getting worse.  His condition had deteriorated to the point where Medical Evacuation from Denali was intitiated.

To speak with Alan you will understand two things immediately.  1) Climbing is his life and 2)  Getting Home Safe is the only option.  Being a climber though–being on that mountain sometimes plays havoc with your instincts.

These guys sometimes put in years of training for just one climb.  Alan has put in years of training, definately has the experience to know when to say when–yet even at that point, it is a very hard decision.  I encourage all of you to check out his personal report of this expedition–this is as real as it gets and Alan puts it into words perfectly..( Click Alan’s Denali 2007 Report).Now on with the story..

Alan was airlifted by helicopter off of Denali and then taken to a nearby hospital.  The Doctors were baffled as to what Alan’s problem could be.  The next couple of days seen Alan return back to his home in Colorado and a much anticipated reunion with his wife.

At this current time, Alan has updated me that he is now feeling about 90%.  He is awaiting a meeting with his specialist and nutritionist to see if they might know what went wrong.  Does this problem slow Alan down though?  Not one bit.

He recently emailed me a few images of a climb–that is right–a climb that he has done since returning back from Denali.  He took on his local Long’s Peak in Colorado.  I am sure that this was both for the physical workout as well as the mental workout after suffering such a scary momment a week earlier, and at     14, 256 feet, Long’s Peak provided just what Alan needed..  This trip went well for Alan and he says that his training schedule is moving forward as planned. 

Alan’s next stop will be the Himalayan monster peak of Shisha Pangma.  Standing at 26, 335 feet tall, it is the world’s 14th largest peak.  Alan will be heading to Tibet at the Beginning of September for this journey, with a preliminary summit date of October 8.

Alan’s crusade back to Mt. Everest has been inspired by his cause to help raise awareness for Alzheimer’s Research.  This is a very personal cause to Alan, as well as alot of us, as this disease has touched so many lives.  Unless you have been there, you just don’t know.  And if you have experienced this disease in your own family, friends, and associates–then perhaps you would like to give Alan a hand in his quest.  You may do so by making a donation through the following link.

We are all glad to hear that Alan is doing well.  I will be bringing you updates as his Quest for Everest in the name of Alzheimer’s Research picks up throughout 2007.  If you would like to visit Alan’s own website which includes his own updates, as well as a Climber’s Forum, by all means stop over and let him know I sent ya.  You may do so by clicking Alan Arnette.

(Editor’s Note:  The Images in this article are the Property of Alan Arnette and represent his 2007 Long’s Peak Climb.  Alan has granted me special permission to publish these images, but they may not be republished without contacting Alan Arnette for permission.)  J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

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