EverestNews Inciting Controversy with Editorial and a Response by The Adventurist

I recently headed over to EverestNews to check out what was going on at their site.  Needless to say, I was quite surprised by a small editorial piece they are currently featuring titled Everest Rumors, Lies, and Ridiculous Stories.

This is based on a few reports that this editorial is claiming as false.  First off, it denies an increase in fees leveled by the Chinese Government this past season on Everest.  It then goes into detail about many sites broadcasting rumors and lies, specifically mentioning the possible closing of the North side of Everest by the Chinese for the forthcoming 2008 Olympics.

EverestNews goes on the record as saying Everest’s North side will be open to climbers in the coming 2008 season and the number of climbing permits given will not be limited in scope due to the 2008 Olympics.  They also go on record as saying that the rumors of China trying to negotiate the closure of Mt. Everest’s South side, via Nepal, is also completely false.

EverestNews Claims the Following Regarding Fees:

Stories that the fees in China were increased several times over were also spread, FALSE again. Why? Guides did raise fees which one would assume resulted in much higher profits… For most independents and operators the Chinese took a minor fee increase.. One must wonder what is the agenda here? To get traffic to web sites? To get published in rags? To help raise profits for some? What???

EverestNews is crediting CTMA and CMA as being two of the reliable sources that this information is coming from:

The CTMA and CMA appear to be getting pissed off by all these rumors, lies and ridiculous stories… Including false stories about climbers, who grow in number year by year… This will probably result in changes from the Chinese many of us might not like….

Last year’s “High-Altitude Free Tibet Protest on Mount Everest!” which was a “set up” where Americans went to China to get arrested and were successful is expected also to cause more tension for the Chinese and climbers which combined with these ridiculous stories will result in tougher standards on entering for 2008….

Now a Few Words From The Adventurist

First off, the CMA respectively refers to the Chinese Mountaineering Association and the CTMA refers to the China Tibet Mountaineering Association.  Now that we know that all of this information is respectively coming from China we may make a few comments.

EverestNews is based out of Granville, Ohio–The United States.  Why would such a site be bowing down to a communist regime in regards to it’s editorials? 

If you go back and read the article as it is printed on the site, you can plainly see that this little bit of marketing by the two forementioned climbing associations in China is nothing more than Chinese Propoganda.  Yes, they might be pissed off at the press, but you do have to remember that China is hosting the upcoming 2008 Olympics and with all of the recent bad publicity regarding China of late, it is no wonder that they would put out a piece questioning the recent rash of bad publicity.

Regarding the climbing fees–on more than one occassion this past year, climbers were told, once they got to China, that their fees would be anywhere from $1000-$3,000 more than what was quoted before they left for the climb.  This information is documented in the climber’s expedition blogs rather substantially.  This did not just happen to US climbers, but even some expeditions from the Philipines and so forth.  This is documented and this information that EverestNews has released bears no weight.  Tell us the sources and give us the figures–until the proof is out there on such matters, it will remain the same.  Too many climbers were claiming the same problem:  A rise in climbing fees after they arrived to get their liscence, which was unmerited beforehand.

As far as the Chinese trying to close the North or the South sides of Mt. Everest for next season.  This news, as I myself have also mentioned, has come not only from the United States press, but also the Press organizations from around the world, including Nepal.  It is known that the Nepali Government was approached with an offer to shut off the South side as well…even though, this offer by the Chinese could have fallen through in the last few days.

Next, we come to a couple of possible threats handed out by the CMA and the CTMA about possible changes taking place over the 2008 Everest season.  These changes are in reference to the “One World-Free Tibet Protest” that took place this year, as well as the Chinese becoming “pissed off” at the stories and rumors coming from Mt. Everest.  They claim this protest was a simple “set-up” to get the organization holding the protest arrested, and in a sense..free publicity.  That may very well be the case, but in another note, the “Free Tibet” campaign has been going on for well over 50 years now.  Each year new protests are enacted to bring the Chinese occupation of Tibet to the limelight.  It just so happens that this years protest took place while China was trying to do their initial Olympic Torch training run to the top of Mt. Everest.

What the CMA and the CTMA are essentially doing is giving themselves an excuse to deny liscences to climbers in the upcoming 2008 season.  They will base this denial on the rumors and lies of the foreign nations trying to take part in next years Everest season, as well as political turmoil of not knowing exactly what people are planning on doing.

While the supposed facts being represented on EverestNews merit no basis, it boggles my mind that an American Company such as EverestNews has seemingly given the Chinese Government an outlet for their remarks–given the Chinese’s past record.

Anyone remember Nangpa La?  Last year the Chinese military opened fire on a group of people trying to cross from Tibet to Nepal–essentially political refugees trying to leave a country they despised–some were shot in the open, in front of 60 or so climbers–including a nun who was mortally shot and killed.  After this incident, the Chinese Military seemingly invaded the ABC camp and essentially looked things over and waited.  They had captured some 30 odd children, women, and men, and taken them into custody as well.

Many people are scared of speaking out against the Chinese.  The guides could very easily lose their bid to attempt Everest and other peaks in the Chinese Himalayas if they don’t keep their mouths shut about such incidents when they do take place.  China has essentially used political power and intimidation factors to keep the “real” stories on Everest and other peaks silent.

Nangpa La was real.  Photos confirm the merciless killings.  Still climbers involved in the incident from around the world are reluctant to speak out against the Chinese.

In 2007 the Chinese Basecamp at Everest featured a security fence and armed guards.  N0 one was allowed around their encampment and secrecy was held as an asset.  At one point a couple of climbers got stranded high on Everest and the Chinese refused to take part in any kind of search and rescue efforts.  This should clue you in a bit on their priorities.  China is about China.  They protect through armed tactics and intimidation. 

So why would EverestNews take a stand and essentially side with them by posting this very Pro-China editorial?  The editorial even fails to mention who the writer was.  I feel the reason may be as simple as the 2008 Olympics.  They are positioning themselves to be “the source” of news and info coming out of China.  On the otherhand, by taking such matters and putting themselves in the public light with such a controversial move, I can not see how this will benefit them at all.  They may get the news coming from China, but at the same time they are alienating the climbers from around the world that understand the tactics China uses in an effort to “control”.

EverestNews makes the following question regarding the rumors, lies, and deceptions and the press that has put them out.

One must wonder what is the agenda here? To get traffic to web sites? To get published in rags? To help raise profits for some? What???

I am only speaking for myself at this time.  I have no advertisers.  I have no site sponsors.  Trying to draw traffic to a site such as this one has no meaning.  It does not benefit me in the slightest.  On the contrary, by putting up an editorial that questions the basis of information regarding Everest and other mountains–by saying they are lies, rumors, and so forth–we do need to question these intentions–EverestNews is essentially questioning the same people that they get all of their information from–The climbing expedition blogs.  They post no news that isn’t spoken first-hand from the Expeditions themselves on their own sites–and they do so 90% of the time word for word.  So who is to blame for the lies, rumors, and so forth?  Rather than calling out people that you yourselves rely on for information–perhaps you should look at yourselves.  This is a weak and futile attempt at bringing in viewers that already question your standards in the field.  China or no China, by printing the threats and “control” tactics, you are becoming nothing more than one of the many puppets you are trying to speak out against.  Just something to think about.

Jon Krakaur vs. Anatoli Boukreev

Alright, now I have got your interest.  Just about everybody in the climbing world knows of the Mt. Everest tragedy that the above title speaks of…May 10-11, 1996, 12 people perished in perhaps the worst climbing accident in history.  Much has been published, this story has been well publicized–yet to this day it still draws condescending and conflicting emotions.

Jon Krakaur, the bestselling author of Into Thin Air, and Anatoli Boukreev, author of the responding bestseller The Climb, have both pitched their versions of the story– Read more

Conrad Anker and Apa Sherpa Joining Forces?

Conrad Anker, the man who became world famous for discovering George Mallory’s body on Mt. Everest, will be teaming up with his wife and Apa Sherpa to host a special “An Everest Evening.”  This event, scheduled for August 9th will take place in Snowbird, Utah.

Apa Sherpa, who holds the record for climbing Mt. Everest the most times, 17, will be discussing his recent success with the SuperSherpas Expedition this year.  Conrad Anker will also be talking about his own success on Everest this year as a part of his reenactment of the 1924 Everest Expedition of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine.

The two have decided to come together to support The Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation (ALCF).  The ALCF is holding the fundraiser to bring attention to the high-altitude workers of Nepal as well as raising money for the Khumbu Climbing School.

Presentations and slide shows of both previously mentioned expeditions will be taking place, as well as a few more surpise speakers.  The ALCF will also be holding a charitable silent auction.  Up for bids will be a donated Grivel wood ice ax signed by all Everest summiters in attendence.

This event will take place at the Cliff Lodge in Snowbird, Utah on August 9th, with things kicking off around 6:30 pm.  Tickets for this event will be $50 a piece.  For information, reservations, or tickets, you may call (800) 933-2147.

This looks to be a great event with alot of big names in Everest history taking part–and besides that, it is for a great cause.  If you are going to be in the Utah area the week of the 9th, why not take a sidetrip to Snowbird?

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

Free Climbing Everest’s Second Step: Controversy of Historical Proportions

The Background 

In 2007 a special expedition was undertaken to climb Mt. Everest in the same fashion–literally–as George Mallory and Andrew Irvine did in 1924.  This expedition was being led by Conrad Anker, the famous discoverer of George Mallory’s body on Everest in 1999.

For those of you not up to date on your Everest history, Mallory and Irvine perished on their fateful attempt to summit Mt. Everest leaving a slew of mystery in the wake of that fateful day in 1924.  Mallory and Irvine were close.  Real close, as a matter of fact, to becoming the first people to ever step foot upon Everest’s summit.

With the discovery of George Mallory’s body in 1999, more interest in Mallory and Irvine’s Expedition in 1924 has caught wind.  Did they summit or didn’t they?  There is perhaps one piece of evidence that could put this mystery to rest…yet it has never been found.  The Camera.  Mallory and Irvine carried a camera with them on their expedition.  It has led many to discuss the merits of the discovery of this holiest of Mt. Everest grails.  After 80 years in the blistering cold of Mt. Everest, could this camera inevitably hold the photos that would put this controversy to rest?  No one knows.

The Expedition

Conrad Anker set his sights on mounting an Expedition using the same equipment and clothing used in 1924 to see if a summit of the world’s tallest peak was actually plausible in 1924.  His attempt would be documented and filmed for a documentary and take place after the 2007 Everest season was essentially over.  This strategy basically would leave the slopes of Everest as they were in 1924–bare. 

Conrad Anker enlisted the help of a high-altitude newcomer named Leo Holding.  Leo Holding would be taking the role of ‘Sandy’ Irvine, where Anker would be climbing as George Mallory for their documentary.

Their climb began great but soon it became evident that their clothing and equipment could not stand up to the bitter cold and elements seen on Mt. Everest.  Anker and Holding had no other choice but to switch to their “High-Tech” climbing gear.

This in and of itself would lead many to believe that Mallory and Irvine would have been in deep trouble way before the summit, but there was still another interesting point to be made with this Expedition.

The Second Step

In order to recreate the Mallory and Irvine Expediton it was decided early on to climb without using “fixed lines”.  Anker and Holding would have no safety net.  This included  going over an area called “The Second Step”, without the use of ladders that were currently in place to allow climbers easier access of this treacherously steep part of the mountain.

Mallory and Irvine would have had to do the same, relying only on their equipment in hand and their sheer will to traverse this difficult area.  Could it be done?

The Controversy Brews

Conrad Anker and Leo Holding were successful in navigating the Second Step.  Within a matter of days news began to circulate that Conrad Anker and Leo Holding had done what seemingly no others had done before them.  Climbed the Second Step without support.

Miss Elizabeth Hawley, the famed Everest Expediton Recorder and Journalist seemingly stated that this feat had not been done since a Chinese Expediton in the 1960’s.

Kraig, from The Adventure Blog, was the first to notice some discrepencies coming in the reporting.  ExplorersWeb posted an article the same day mentioning:

Earlier today, Pete Poston reminded how Theo Fritsche had free-climbed the Step back in 2001, without supplementary O2. Poston based the information on interviews by Austrian Jochen Hemmleb.

In an email to ExWeb today Jochen also mentions a previous free-climb of the infamous rocky outcrop, achieved in full-monsoon conditions and w/o O2 by Spaniard Oscar Cadiach.

The Adventure Blog questioned ExplorersWeb on this issue, which in turn made it a very public issue with many people from the climbing community chiming in.

Why Is this Issue Important?

Facts on Mt. Everest have the tendency to get blurred, scrutinized, and even changed.  This is not something that is new.  Climbers are very often in the position with few others around to back their stories.

All we have to go on is the history that has been placed before us.  Mt. Everest is a place like few others.  Many people try to make their own mark on Mt. Everest every year by being the first…the fastest…the highest…

Without proper dialogue and questioning of facts, Mt. Everest becomes a very tough place to follow along with.  In keeping with the true spirit of Everest it is essential that these facts be researched and laid out before becoming a public vocal point for the “Prove you right or wrong” crowd.

Miss Elizabeth Hawley and ExplorersWeb are very much two of the top news sources for the climbing community.  Each of them are well respected for their Integrity and News Reporting, yet over this issue they had conflicting reports that were essentially being given to the public at a cost that arose doubt within the historic confines of Mt. Everest and the public that finds this of interest.

Kraig at The Adventure Blog done a fantastic job of reporting on this difference of historic opinions, representing both sides to it’s fullest extent and staying with this story as it developed.  If you would like to read his full coverage and see where it leads, check out his June Archives for 2007.

The Adventurist Goes Primitive—Camping That Is..

Well, many of you have probably been wondering where I have been over the past week and a half.

My wife and I recently took a “vacation” to southern Tennessee or “Down in the Hills” as they call it…

We decided to do some “Primitive Camping” at the David Crockett State Park near Lawrenceburg, Tennessee.

Now when I say Primitive Camping, I am talking no water, no electricity..we didn’t even bring a watch.  We wanted to get away, do some exploring and lose track of time for a week…and we did.

First off, I need to mention that the place we put up camp was amazing!  We placed our tent at the head of two rivers converging..and right across the river was a 300 foot Rock Cliff straight up!  Beautiful scenery.

Over the course of a week we done a fair share of hiking straight into the wilderness.  As some of you may know, I am based in Indiana–so I was looking forward to seeing th wildlife and scenery around southern Tennessee and experiencing it first hand.  Had some nice animal encounters with probably the best being a large Golden Eagle not 10 feet away from us–some how we snuck up on it without it taking off–but then of course it seen us.

We also followed the river one day and ran across a couple of River Otters eating and playing–another first for me in the wild.  There were plenty of Deer and Wild Tukeys, A Sneaky Raccoon that we played flashlight tag with one night..and even an Armadillo–which I am told is very rare there.  It was definately an Armadillo though, I grew up with them in Texas.

Another day, I strolled the Riverbed for rocks and fossils for my daugher’s collection and began finding Geodes…large rocks filled with crystals..I brought maybe 30 nice sized ones back.  I also found my first arrowheads..a nice Native American Axe Head, some “Indian Money” which is essentially beads that the natives would wear around their necks and use to trade with, and a nice large shard of pottery.  This Riverbed seemed to be an untapped resource for the fossil and rock collector.  I also found a few fossilized shells, a mammal tooth fossil, as well as quite possibly two Dinosaur Teeth–which I am still researching to see if my assumptions stand.

Another item of interest, we ran across 3 different Painted Turtles laying eggs in the woods.  Must have hit the prime time for that.

Overall it was in the 90’s for most of the week…not bad unless you were embarking on a 10 mile hike up and down the big hills of Tennessee…

We made a special trip to the Natchez Trace Scenic Byway, kind of stumbling upon an old pioneer cemetary..that had of all people, Meriweather Lewis, from the Lewis & Clark Expedition, buried there.  I say we stumbled upon the cemetary because my wife seen the first gravestone.  She has an interest in Geneology and wanted to stop.  Her family is from this area many years ago.  We had no idea Lewis had killed himself at this spot and was buried here..we simply found it off of a trail.  On Another cool note, she did find a distant relative’s gravestone there as well..

It was definately a memorable trip.  On the way home we decided to stop in at Mammoth Caves in Kentucky.  This was my second time, her first…but the 50 degree temperaure definately made it a nice pit stop before heading home…even though the 500 steps we descended and then climbed out of the cave was a little harsh.

Upon leaving the Caves, there were a few billboards advertising Mike’s Rock Shop, the Biggest in the Midwest.  I told her I wanted to see what this guy had and try to figure out what I had brought back with me.  All I could say was Wow…

Most of you will not find Rocks to interesting, but Mike’s had some great Geodes, standing close to 4 feet tall and selling for $3900 per half…(these rocks are split in half to show the crystal detail, some of nature’s own Bling-bling).  The ones I had found were priced from $20-$40 each, not bad, but I am not planning on getting rid of my finds..haha.

We had a great time, everything went well..didn’t see no Rattle Snakes or Bears, but we did get to fall asleep in our tents to the Who’s of a large Owl and wake up to the rushing of the River for 7 days straight.  I would like to say I am refreshed and ready to go back to work, but you know how that is…we are already planning our next excursion.

$5000 Charge for Wilderness Rescue Ignites Debate–Again.

A Kansas man has been billed $5000 for a wilderness rescue after he injured his ankle while hiking along a steep hillside.

This debate has been raging for well over a year now–whether or not people in the wilderness, when accidents happen, should be liable to pay for their rescue.

Kansas is only one of a number of states who have been looking in to billing people that have come to need a rescue involving local authorities.  Colorado also has a similar law in place and one is also currently making the rounds in Utah.

The great Blog, Two-Heel Drive ran by Tom Mangan, tipped me off to the forementioned article featured in the June 18th issue of Rocky Mountain News discussing this incident, as well as the debate raging in Kansas.  You may read the whole article HERE.

As far as Colorado is concerned, there has recently been news that another individual will be billed $7500 for his subsequent rescue as well.

This is reigniting a big debate amongst outdoor enthusiasts.  Should they be charged or shouldn’t they?  I have already expressed my own opinion on this matter as it pertains to climbers needing rescued–(please see story posted HERE, for my opinion.)  How much is to much?

Alot of us go out and try to enjoy the peace and solitude of the outdoors for 1) it is great exercise, 2) it gets you away from the hustle and bustle of cities…and PEOPLE, and 3) It is alot cheaper to walk a trail then drive a car.

If all of us ran the risk of having to pay $7500 for rescue after a badly twisted ankle PLUS our own medical bills, would we still be outdoors?

Alot of the previous debate over this issue has occured mainly over climbers getting stranded high on mountains, as in the two incidents that have occured in the past year on Mt. Hood. More and more though, we as individuals are seeing this pop up for some things that seem–dare I say mundane?

I think the political motivation behind this issue has jumped from saving lives to making money, and in a sense, infringing upon our own freedoms to explore nature and the outdoors.

Perhaps a few people have taken advantage of the system.  Perhaps a few have ended up where they never should have been in the first place without the experience or guidance they needed to be there.  Is this a reason to Pigeonhole a whole section of the American population? Instead of going out to “Get Away From It All”, that “All” is slowly trying to step in and even take away the essence of being out there.

Read more

Free-Climbing the Second Step: A New Controversy Brewing..

In the past two weeks, numerous reports of Conrad Anker and Leo Haulding’s, successful summit of Everest have been reported.

Many of you will know that Conrad Anker and Leo Haulding set out a couple weeks ago to try to prove that George Mallory could have successfully summited Mt. Everest, by doing it themselves in equipment that would have been used in Mallory’s day–although made more recent.

Their findings are being reported two different ways.  The first, is that they were successful…the second is that they had to put aside the look-alike 1920’s equipment and make their final push in high tech gear of today.  To be honest, this would lead you to believe that Mallory and Irvine couldn’t have summited in the gear that they had.

Another controversy has seemed to have erupted recently over Conrad Anker and Leo Haulding’s subsequent free-climb up the Second Step.  The two, in order to do it as Mallory and Irvine, removed the ladder ascending the Second Step and decided to free climb it.  Many people, including Elizabeth Hawley, the Mt. Everest Expeditions local historian and news source, seem to be confused on the merits of free climbing the second step…

The Adventure Blog has posted a nice piece on whether this was the first free climb ever, the first one since the 1960’s as Elizabeth Hawley claims, or just another one that has fallen into the cracks of misreporting.  ExplorersWeb contends that there are actually a few people who have done this on the Second Step and that Anker and Haulding are just the most recent.

We all know it isn’t done often.  More people go for the much easier and safer, by using the ladder, but the controversy arises in part, by a message left by The Altitude Everest Team claiming that this was a true first.  No matter how it plays out–it is very unlikely this is a true first as way more than one source agrees that it has been done at least once before and possibly numerous times.

I credit Kraig over at The Adventure Blog for this fine piece of investigative reporting–I will be watching to see if he can come up with some truth and what the facts are surrounding this situation–well done Kraig.  Now go read his fine piece HERE.

David Tait on Top of the World–The Photo

David Tait, who I covered extensively throughout this past Mt. Everest season has finally posted a photo of himself on the summit of Mt. Everest on his Everest Expedition Blog.

I had the priviledge of conducting not one, but two exclusive interviews with David–one before his attempt to make the first ever Double-Traverse of Mt. Everest and one after his aborted effort after successfully summiting from the famed North Ridge Route then crossing ver and heading down the South Col.

David’s original plan was to go from the north to the south…rest at South Basecamp for a few days then head back from South to North…a feat many considered suicide in one season and an attempt that has never even been done before.  But as fate would have it, David ended up having to break trail and fix ropes upon reaching the South side to finish his descent on his first attempt.  This process inevitably left David more tired than he had planned, and also allowed him time to rethink why it was that he was trying to do this.

David’s story, is a true revelation into a man’s soul as he fought with himself and ego and eventually decided that his climbing partner deserved all the credit…not himself.

Head on over to his site and check out the cool summit picture–just goes to show that David inevitably kept his one goal in mind.  While your there, feel free to check out his posts as he successfully became the first person from the UK and Europe to make a successful Traverse from Everest North to South.

Let’s not also forget that through David’s efforts this season, The climbers on the south were able to launch their bids for the summit–without him, they may not have had a chance till very late in May.  This was definately an incredible adventure!

Mt. Everest Pioneer, Ernest Hofstetter, Dies at 95

Ernest Hofstetter, a leading member of a Swiss Expedition team that nearly summited one year before Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay made the first successful summit of Mt. Everest in 1953, has died.

Upon Sir Edmund Hillary’s successful summit the following year, Hillary sent the swiss team a note telling them that they had done half of the work for him.

The Swiss Expedition Team, that Ernest Hofstetter was a proud member of, seemingly paved the route that a year later Hillary and Norgay would use to make their summit a success.

For more on the incredible 1952 Swiss Expedition up Mt. Everest, Click Here.

Ernest Hofstetter will be missed by the climbing community world wide and our thoughts and prayers go out to his family and friends.

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