Alan Arnette Arrives at Shisha Pangma
After a couple of days of travel, Alan Arnette and Project Himalaya have finally made it to Shisha Pangma Basecamp.
Alan is reporting that all is well. He is able to sleep comfortably and his acclimatization seems to be going rather well. He has had no problems to speak of–which is a very good sign after the Denali scare a few months back.
“Last night after dinner, I just stood in the middle of the field staring upwards. So many stars. So many stars. The Milky Way appeared as a dense cloud that stretched from the north horizon to the south horizon without interruption. It was a pure rainbow of stars and galaxies. One felt small looking at the vastness of deep space. Over the Himalayas into Nepal, lightening provided a constant light show.”
As you can tell, Alan has a way of making us all feel the surroundings in his posts.
Over the coming days Alan and the Project Himalaya team will be going up and trying to establish ABC camp. From the photo of Basecamp above, at roughly 16,500 ft., it doesn’t look like much at this time–over the coming days Alan will be going up another 2,000 ft. and hitting the snows that the Himalaya is famous for.
To read Alan’s personal trip reports of recent days, head on over to his site where he is posting regular dispatches from Shisha–the world’s 14th tallest peak.
Alan is also all over the place. Besides his own site, myself as well as The Adventure Blog and ExplorersWeb are posting regular updates.
Keep in mind that Alan is climbing to help raise awareness and funds for Alzheimers Research. 100% of the funds raised during this process and his eventual landing at Mt. Everest in 2008 are all in support of this project. To help Alan out, stop on over and make a small donation. You don’t have to donate to follow along, but I am sure Alan would appreciate the generosity and support. You may leave a small donation by clicking here:
Everest 2008: Climbers will be screened, Officers Stationed at ABC, and more from Nepal..
Next year’s spring Everest season is already drawing quite a bit of interest in the media around the world. With China planning on running the Olympic Torch to the top of Everest from the North and rumors flying about a possible limit on Expeditions taking place on both sides, we now have a few answers coming from Ang Tshering and ExplorersWeb concerning this issue.
Ang Tshering, chairman for Asian Trekking and President of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, has written in to ExplorersWeb with some news regarding these issues.
First up, Tshering confirms that there will be no limit as to the amount of expedtions taking place on Everest’s South Side. He does add though that only well-funded, big outfits, with plenty of experience will be allowed to attempt the sacred peak. Another change of note: In order to have the chance to climb on Everest next season, your expedition must not have more than three seperate nationalities taking part. Originally this was noted as one, but was quickly revised after it was noted that Sherpa climbers who accompany each trip up Everest is, in itself, a seperate nationality and thus would not be allowed to take part.
You will also have to now have your plans in place for the trip to Everest at least two months prior to making the journey. Which is usually customary anyways when involved with a big expedition.
Another problem arising from this past season on Everest was theft of equipment and misconduct. Ang Tshering has stated that the CTMA will be taking ’stern action’ against anyone involved in such activities. They will also be placing liason officers at Advanced Basecamp to help in their efforts to curb such actions from happening on Everest in 2008. Both the NMA and Nepali authorities have given support to this idea.
It is also being noted that Nepal is considering dropping the price of Everest expeditions in the very near future. They are asking for input regarding this matter from climbers. Ang Tshering is personally wanting to hear your voice and may be reached at angtshering@asian-trekking.com , office@nepalmountaineering.org , or peaks@nma.wlink.com.np
EverestNews Inciting Controversy with Editorial and a Response by The Adventurist
I recently headed over to EverestNews to check out what was going on at their site. Needless to say, I was quite surprised by a small editorial piece they are currently featuring titled Everest Rumors, Lies, and Ridiculous Stories.
This is based on a few reports that this editorial is claiming as false. First off, it denies an increase in fees leveled by the Chinese Government this past season on Everest. It then goes into detail about many sites broadcasting rumors and lies, specifically mentioning the possible closing of the North side of Everest by the Chinese for the forthcoming 2008 Olympics.
EverestNews goes on the record as saying Everest’s North side will be open to climbers in the coming 2008 season and the number of climbing permits given will not be limited in scope due to the 2008 Olympics. They also go on record as saying that the rumors of China trying to negotiate the closure of Mt. Everest’s South side, via Nepal, is also completely false.
EverestNews Claims the Following Regarding Fees:
Stories that the fees in China were increased several times over were also spread, FALSE again. Why? Guides did raise fees which one would assume resulted in much higher profits… For most independents and operators the Chinese took a minor fee increase.. One must wonder what is the agenda here? To get traffic to web sites? To get published in rags? To help raise profits for some? What???
EverestNews is crediting CTMA and CMA as being two of the reliable sources that this information is coming from:
The CTMA and CMA appear to be getting pissed off by all these rumors, lies and ridiculous stories… Including false stories about climbers, who grow in number year by year… This will probably result in changes from the Chinese many of us might not like….
Last year’s “High-Altitude Free Tibet Protest on Mount Everest!” which was a “set up” where Americans went to China to get arrested and were successful is expected also to cause more tension for the Chinese and climbers which combined with these ridiculous stories will result in tougher standards on entering for 2008….
Now a Few Words From The Adventurist
First off, the CMA respectively refers to the Chinese Mountaineering Association and the CTMA refers to the China Tibet Mountaineering Association. Now that we know that all of this information is respectively coming from China we may make a few comments.
EverestNews is based out of Granville, Ohio–The United States. Why would such a site be bowing down to a communist regime in regards to it’s editorials?
If you go back and read the article as it is printed on the site, you can plainly see that this little bit of marketing by the two forementioned climbing associations in China is nothing more than Chinese Propoganda. Yes, they might be pissed off at the press, but you do have to remember that China is hosting the upcoming 2008 Olympics and with all of the recent bad publicity regarding China of late, it is no wonder that they would put out a piece questioning the recent rash of bad publicity.
Regarding the climbing fees–on more than one occassion this past year, climbers were told, once they got to China, that their fees would be anywhere from $1000-$3,000 more than what was quoted before they left for the climb. This information is documented in the climber’s expedition blogs rather substantially. This did not just happen to US climbers, but even some expeditions from the Philipines and so forth. This is documented and this information that EverestNews has released bears no weight. Tell us the sources and give us the figures–until the proof is out there on such matters, it will remain the same. Too many climbers were claiming the same problem: A rise in climbing fees after they arrived to get their liscence, which was unmerited beforehand.
As far as the Chinese trying to close the North or the South sides of Mt. Everest for next season. This news, as I myself have also mentioned, has come not only from the United States press, but also the Press organizations from around the world, including Nepal. It is known that the Nepali Government was approached with an offer to shut off the South side as well…even though, this offer by the Chinese could have fallen through in the last few days.
Next, we come to a couple of possible threats handed out by the CMA and the CTMA about possible changes taking place over the 2008 Everest season. These changes are in reference to the “One World-Free Tibet Protest” that took place this year, as well as the Chinese becoming “pissed off” at the stories and rumors coming from Mt. Everest. They claim this protest was a simple “set-up” to get the organization holding the protest arrested, and in a sense..free publicity. That may very well be the case, but in another note, the “Free Tibet” campaign has been going on for well over 50 years now. Each year new protests are enacted to bring the Chinese occupation of Tibet to the limelight. It just so happens that this years protest took place while China was trying to do their initial Olympic Torch training run to the top of Mt. Everest.
What the CMA and the CTMA are essentially doing is giving themselves an excuse to deny liscences to climbers in the upcoming 2008 season. They will base this denial on the rumors and lies of the foreign nations trying to take part in next years Everest season, as well as political turmoil of not knowing exactly what people are planning on doing.
While the supposed facts being represented on EverestNews merit no basis, it boggles my mind that an American Company such as EverestNews has seemingly given the Chinese Government an outlet for their remarks–given the Chinese’s past record.
Anyone remember Nangpa La? Last year the Chinese military opened fire on a group of people trying to cross from Tibet to Nepal–essentially political refugees trying to leave a country they despised–some were shot in the open, in front of 60 or so climbers–including a nun who was mortally shot and killed. After this incident, the Chinese Military seemingly invaded the ABC camp and essentially looked things over and waited. They had captured some 30 odd children, women, and men, and taken them into custody as well.
Many people are scared of speaking out against the Chinese. The guides could very easily lose their bid to attempt Everest and other peaks in the Chinese Himalayas if they don’t keep their mouths shut about such incidents when they do take place. China has essentially used political power and intimidation factors to keep the “real” stories on Everest and other peaks silent.
Nangpa La was real. Photos confirm the merciless killings. Still climbers involved in the incident from around the world are reluctant to speak out against the Chinese.
In 2007 the Chinese Basecamp at Everest featured a security fence and armed guards. N0 one was allowed around their encampment and secrecy was held as an asset. At one point a couple of climbers got stranded high on Everest and the Chinese refused to take part in any kind of search and rescue efforts. This should clue you in a bit on their priorities. China is about China. They protect through armed tactics and intimidation.
So why would EverestNews take a stand and essentially side with them by posting this very Pro-China editorial? The editorial even fails to mention who the writer was. I feel the reason may be as simple as the 2008 Olympics. They are positioning themselves to be “the source” of news and info coming out of China. On the otherhand, by taking such matters and putting themselves in the public light with such a controversial move, I can not see how this will benefit them at all. They may get the news coming from China, but at the same time they are alienating the climbers from around the world that understand the tactics China uses in an effort to “control”.
EverestNews makes the following question regarding the rumors, lies, and deceptions and the press that has put them out.
One must wonder what is the agenda here? To get traffic to web sites? To get published in rags? To help raise profits for some? What???
I am only speaking for myself at this time. I have no advertisers. I have no site sponsors. Trying to draw traffic to a site such as this one has no meaning. It does not benefit me in the slightest. On the contrary, by putting up an editorial that questions the basis of information regarding Everest and other mountains–by saying they are lies, rumors, and so forth–we do need to question these intentions–EverestNews is essentially questioning the same people that they get all of their information from–The climbing expedition blogs. They post no news that isn’t spoken first-hand from the Expeditions themselves on their own sites–and they do so 90% of the time word for word. So who is to blame for the lies, rumors, and so forth? Rather than calling out people that you yourselves rely on for information–perhaps you should look at yourselves. This is a weak and futile attempt at bringing in viewers that already question your standards in the field. China or no China, by printing the threats and “control” tactics, you are becoming nothing more than one of the many puppets you are trying to speak out against. Just something to think about.
ExplorersWeb on a Roll: Discredits ‘First Swim at North Pole’
Earlier this year Lewis Gordon Pugh made a pitch for global warming . He allegedly took the first swim at the Geographic North Pole citing that this endeavor could not have been done 10 years ago, but that the melting ice attributed to global warming had now made this feasable.
The Adventurist reported on this as well right after it happened. ExplorersWeb reported on the swim–but then quickly retracted the story. Nobody knew why until now.
It seems that ExplorersWeb has found information that this attempt may have actually not been the first actual swim at the North Pole. Actually it looks as if this has actually taken place a number of seperate times with plenty of witnesses to boot.
For some reason ExplorersWeb has been on a role with some of these adventure “Firsts” and making sure credit is being given when due. They cite that Lewis Gordon Pugh’s website claims that he was indeed the first to swim at the North Pole, yet they have many claims otherwise by different individuals–at least going back as far as 1996.
I encourage all of you to swing on over and read their account of this event and the sudden controversy surrounding it.
The Fall of Bear Grylls
ExplorersWeb is at it, yet again. When I first started following this story, I questioned ExplorersWeb’s intentions. Well it looks like they just may have been on to something. Information is coming out of the woodworks on Bear, not only about his supposed flight over the top of Mt. Everest..but now it seems it may just be about his whole career…
I recieved a tip today about Mr. Grylls, in regards to his previous military service–after stopping by ExplorersWeb, it seems that they have recieved the same tip, as they have included this in their lead story…seems like the viewers are starting to get disgruntled at Mr. Grylls and are passing on the tips to sites like this one, The Adventure Blog and ExplorersWeb. Here is the lowdown:
Mr. Grylls was indeed in the SAS or the British Special Forces, as he claims. What he doesn’t mention to the public is that he was in the SAS (21)–an easier and less dangerous branch filled with prospects looking to get into the SAS (22)–the hardcore, real deal.
Bear also mentions on his site that he got out because he was in a “horendous” helicopter accident in Africa that left his back broken in three places… We are still looking to verify this information as well–
So much has been coming out about Bear making up stories, changing words as he pleases–and in a sense trying to create a persona in the media that is a little far from the truth, that nobody is real sure about what to believe…
Even his shows Man vs. Wild and Born Survivor: Bear Grylls try to create him as this mythic superhuman that can and does get out of any situation–Alive. Over the past couple of weeks, reports of what is really going on during these “Adventure Excursions” is starting to become more clear–they have been meticulously set-up to trick the viewer that Bear was actually doing everything he says, yet in reality, it was prearranged.
ExplorersWebs intentions, I am sure, was not to discredit Mr. Grylls in the beginning, but as the story has come around full circle now and every detail of Bear’s career is being analyzed, I think it is safe that we can all assume that nothing is as it seems.
For the complete breakdown of the truth vs. lies of Bear Grylls, I request that you head on over to the ExplorersWeb site and check out their lead story…
I guess to me, personally, I am now even questioning whether or not their is a Bear Grylls, or if this is all just a made up media blitz as well. I guess we will all have to wait and see..
K2 Summits, New Route on Gasherbrum II, and more..
Over the past week most of my time has been used covering the recent Michael Reardon tragedy. This is not to say that nothing was happening though, but I felt that I had the opportunity to do something for Michael and his family and friends that other sites just couldn’t do.
To get back up to pace, I will be offering a synopsis of what has been going around in the headlines. So let’s jump right in…
Avalanche on Gasherbrum II
On July 19, a massive avalanche was reported from Gasherbrum II. The Amical Team, hoping for a summit push, was suddenly buried in snow. One member died in this tragic incident, another member was unable to be located, and the rest of the team suffered various degrees on injury.
Hirotaki Takeuchi, a member of the devestated Amical team, reported in to ExplorersWeb about the incident saying that the group got swept up in the avalanche and carried down 300 meters to the seracs.
Other teams on GII soon went up and helped in a massive search and rescue which resulted in Hirotaki and others being able to survive this ordeal. Much credit is given to these teams in their efforts for this rescue between Camps 2 & 3 on Gasherbrum II.
Italians Summit Gasherbrum II, Establish New Route
Karl Unterkircher, Daniele Bernasconi, and Michele Compagnoni made alpine history today as they successfully summited Gasherbrum II via a new route–The North Face.
The team had been climbing for the past three days, and began a successful push for the summit a bit earlier today. This is great news following the tragedy on GII earlier this week with the Amical Team.
For more on this story, please stop by The Adventure Blog for more information.
Massive Summits on K2 Today
Around 3:30 Pm today reports started circulating that the first team to reach K2’s summit this season had arrived. That was just the beginning though…17 more climbers would soon top out on what many people claim as the world’s deadliest mountain.
Over the years, K2 has had a total of 269 summits. That is right, 269. In Comparison, Mt. Everest, the world’s highest peak as well as most publicised, had well over 500 summits….this year alone. K2 has also claimed the lives of 69 people in the process, giving it a death-to-success ratio of 24%. One in four have died trying to bag this coveted peak.
For more on the list of successful K2 summiters today, I will refer you to ExplorersWeb for the complete story.
On a sad note, a yet unnamed Sherpa took a tragic fall and perished during today’s activities. The Sherpa, who was working with the Korean Men’s Team, slipped and began to fall. Two climber’s close to him tried to grab him as he came by, but they were unsuccessful in their attempt. More details on this tragic incident will be expected in the coming days.
Lewis Gordon Pugh SWIMS at North Pole
Lewis Gordon Pugh, 37, A british adventure swimmer, has become the first person to ever swim at the North Pole. Doing the stunt to bring awareness to Global Warming in the Arctic, Pugh dove into the 29 degree water.
His swim lasted aproximately 18 minutes and 50 seconds and went for a distance of 0.6 miles. The water, at 29 degrees, is the coldest known temperature that a human has ever been able to swim in.
I hope my swim will inspire world leaders to take climate change seriously. The decisions which they make over the next few years will determine the biodiversity of our world.
I want my children, and their children, to know that polar bears are still living in the Arctic. These creatures are on the front line up here.
I am obviously ecstatic to have succeeded, but this swim is a triumph and a tragedy: a triumph that I could swim in such ferocious conditions but a tragedy that it’s possible to swim at the North Pole.
Pugh’s swim was conducted in a free-flowing waterhole. The hole was used to demonstrate the effects the climate has been having on the arctic. He went on to explain that over the next years, waterholes like these will become more prevelent in the Arctic.
Lewis Gordon Pugh is best known for having swam on 5 of the seven known continents of the world, as well as being the first person to ever swim the Sognefjord, Norway’s longest fjord.
Lincoln Hall “Dead Lucky” on Everest
Lincoln Hall Was Dead
May 25, 2006 will go down as one of those days in mountaineering history where nothing seemed to be going right–but then the miracle happened..
Stranded in the death zone, 250 meters from Mt. Everest’s famed summit…Lincoln Hall was lost. A group of Sherpas climbing with Hall made the decision to descend without him. If they stayed, they would die as well..but if they left they would have a chance, but Lincoln Hall would perish. They left.
Lincoln Hall was a famed climber from Australia. He already had one Everest summit attempt to his credit in 1984–that attempt ended with him turning back near the summit due to illness. In 2006 he was heading back–not for himself, but as a favor–he was going to be a cameraman on a new documentary about Everest.
After reaching the famed Everest summit, Lincoln Hall began his descent.
High on Everest’s slope, Lincoln Hall came down with Pulminary Edema–a climber’s worst nightmare. The lungs slowly fill with fluid, cutting off your ability to breathe, leaving you with a slow gurgling death in freezing temperatures. Not a fun way to die–
The decision to leave Lincoln Hall high on Everest is nothing new. When a Climber goes down in the death zone, it is pretty well known that your chances of getting back down are slim to virtually none. Are you to die as well, or walk away? It is just a part of mountaineering.
Lincoln Hall’s death was broadcast the world over. This report comes from ExplorersWeb and goes through a momment by momment synopsis of what occured on this tragic day as it was happening.
A day later, ExplorersWeb released another report.
Lincoln Hall was Miraculously Still Alive
Lincoln Hall had survived a night with Pulmonary Edema. A climber heading towards the summit had noticed Lincoln Hall and made a dispatch to camp. A massive rescue attempt was enacted and underway.
Lincoln Hall was eventually rescued and brought back to safety. He was partially blinded, suffering from pulmonary Edema, and had frostbite on both of his hands and feet and part of his face.
But he had survived.
Lincoln Hall ended up losing his fingers to frostbite and eventually had to have them amputated.
His story is the miracle. He was one of very few people to ever come out of the death zone after 24 hours alive. He was reported as dead. Friends, family and associates all thought he was dead. Lincoln Hall was the only one that knew he was still alive.
Dead Lucky
Lincoln Hall has just published a book about this whole ordeal called “Dead Lucky”–which promminently features a photo of him on the cover lifting his hand, with amputated fingers, and a smile on his face. He, as well as the world, knows why this momment could bring a smile–He was Alive and lived the tale that he has now had published.
This is not Lincoln Hall’s first book, as a matter of fact it is his eighth book. He was already an acclaimed Mountaineering journalist–but on the evening of May 15, 2006–it all became so very real. This is his first attempt to put this whole story together and try to come to grips with what could have very well been a tragedy.
I encourage all of you to pick up this book and find out what true survival and the will of man can accomplish.

This book was released in May 2007 through Random House Australia. It has a cover price of $34.95
The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!
I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist. I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.
This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.
Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!
Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!
Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….
Cheers-
J. Alan Hendricks, Editor
Free Climbing Everest’s Second Step: Controversy of Historical Proportions
The Background
In 2007 a special expedition was undertaken to climb Mt. Everest in the same fashion–literally–as George Mallory and Andrew Irvine did in 1924. This expedition was being led by Conrad Anker, the famous discoverer of George Mallory’s body on Everest in 1999.
For those of you not up to date on your Everest history, Mallory and Irvine perished on their fateful attempt to summit Mt. Everest leaving a slew of mystery in the wake of that fateful day in 1924. Mallory and Irvine were close. Real close, as a matter of fact, to becoming the first people to ever step foot upon Everest’s summit.
With the discovery of George Mallory’s body in 1999, more interest in Mallory and Irvine’s Expedition in 1924 has caught wind. Did they summit or didn’t they? There is perhaps one piece of evidence that could put this mystery to rest…yet it has never been found. The Camera. Mallory and Irvine carried a camera with them on their expedition. It has led many to discuss the merits of the discovery of this holiest of Mt. Everest grails. After 80 years in the blistering cold of Mt. Everest, could this camera inevitably hold the photos that would put this controversy to rest? No one knows.
The Expedition
Conrad Anker set his sights on mounting an Expedition using the same equipment and clothing used in 1924 to see if a summit of the world’s tallest peak was actually plausible in 1924. His attempt would be documented and filmed for a documentary and take place after the 2007 Everest season was essentially over. This strategy basically would leave the slopes of Everest as they were in 1924–bare.
Conrad Anker enlisted the help of a high-altitude newcomer named Leo Holding. Leo Holding would be taking the role of ‘Sandy’ Irvine, where Anker would be climbing as George Mallory for their documentary.
Their climb began great but soon it became evident that their clothing and equipment could not stand up to the bitter cold and elements seen on Mt. Everest. Anker and Holding had no other choice but to switch to their “High-Tech” climbing gear.
This in and of itself would lead many to believe that Mallory and Irvine would have been in deep trouble way before the summit, but there was still another interesting point to be made with this Expedition.
The Second Step
In order to recreate the Mallory and Irvine Expediton it was decided early on to climb without using “fixed lines”. Anker and Holding would have no safety net. This included going over an area called “The Second Step”, without the use of ladders that were currently in place to allow climbers easier access of this treacherously steep part of the mountain.
Mallory and Irvine would have had to do the same, relying only on their equipment in hand and their sheer will to traverse this difficult area. Could it be done?
The Controversy Brews
Conrad Anker and Leo Holding were successful in navigating the Second Step. Within a matter of days news began to circulate that Conrad Anker and Leo Holding had done what seemingly no others had done before them. Climbed the Second Step without support.
Miss Elizabeth Hawley, the famed Everest Expediton Recorder and Journalist seemingly stated that this feat had not been done since a Chinese Expediton in the 1960’s.
Kraig, from The Adventure Blog, was the first to notice some discrepencies coming in the reporting. ExplorersWeb posted an article the same day mentioning:
Earlier today, Pete Poston reminded how Theo Fritsche had free-climbed the Step back in 2001, without supplementary O2. Poston based the information on interviews by Austrian Jochen Hemmleb.
In an email to ExWeb today Jochen also mentions a previous free-climb of the infamous rocky outcrop, achieved in full-monsoon conditions and w/o O2 by Spaniard Oscar Cadiach.
The Adventure Blog questioned ExplorersWeb on this issue, which in turn made it a very public issue with many people from the climbing community chiming in.
Why Is this Issue Important?
Facts on Mt. Everest have the tendency to get blurred, scrutinized, and even changed. This is not something that is new. Climbers are very often in the position with few others around to back their stories.
All we have to go on is the history that has been placed before us. Mt. Everest is a place like few others. Many people try to make their own mark on Mt. Everest every year by being the first…the fastest…the highest…
Without proper dialogue and questioning of facts, Mt. Everest becomes a very tough place to follow along with. In keeping with the true spirit of Everest it is essential that these facts be researched and laid out before becoming a public vocal point for the “Prove you right or wrong” crowd.
Miss Elizabeth Hawley and ExplorersWeb are very much two of the top news sources for the climbing community. Each of them are well respected for their Integrity and News Reporting, yet over this issue they had conflicting reports that were essentially being given to the public at a cost that arose doubt within the historic confines of Mt. Everest and the public that finds this of interest.
Kraig at The Adventure Blog done a fantastic job of reporting on this difference of historic opinions, representing both sides to it’s fullest extent and staying with this story as it developed. If you would like to read his full coverage and see where it leads, check out his June Archives for 2007.






