Russian Mastery Leads To Another First Ascent

You have to give those Russian climbers credit this year.  They have been all over the place.  A couple weeks back a team of Russian climbers made the first ever K2 West Face summit and now there is forthcoming word that a team of Russians have now made the first ascent of Shingu Charpa’s East Face.

After 21 days on the route and another 3 while descending, Alexander Klenov, Mikhail Davy, and Alexander Shabunin have now been designated the first climbers to ever reach the top of this difficult peak via the East Face.

You might not be able to realize the difficulty level that this entailed–just imagine a 5, 250 foot rock face going straight up.  Shingu Charpa is also known as the Great Tower.  From base to summit, it stands 18, 372 feet high.  That isn’t much in the way of height, but when you consider the 5, 250 feet of sheer granite rock that the east face is made of, then you can begin to get an idea of why it took the russian team a 21 day onslaught to finally get up this thing.  Some pretty amazing work.

Shingu Charpa lies in the Karakorum Mountains of Pakistan.  It first became a peak of interest in 2000 when a group of Korean climbers made the first ascent via the North Face.  After the Koreans were successful, a couple of American teams as well as a Ukranian team have made attempts, stopping just short of the summit.

The Russian team complained a bit on the outright terrible conditions they were facing.  Freezing temperatures and rain constantly hampered the trio and made climbing the granite wall very difficult.  The first push towards the summit resulted in a withdraw after the distance had been misjudged.  The following day at 5am, the team woke up and made their second and final push.

These russian teams seem to have a thing for onslaughting the peaks.  Wave after wave of climbers go up and if necessary bivy..then try again the next day.  It is almost like watching the American Calvary in the old westerns.  No matter how many failed attempts, they will keep coming till they master the peak.

Congrats go out to these guys.

Nine More Land on K2’s Summit Via West Face Route

The rush to the summit was all of that and more.  Yesterday I wrote of the first Ascent of K2’s West Face to the summit. Vadim Popovich and Andrew Mariev claimed this historical first ascent, but nine others remained in higher camps waiting for a possible weather window. 

That weather window opened up this morning.  All nine climbers successfully summited K2 via the West Face.  The climbers are as follows:

• Nickolay Totmjanin
• Alexey Bolotov
• Gleb Sokolov
• Eugeny Vinogradsky
• Victor Volodin
• Gennady Kirievsky
• Vitaly Gorelik
• Pavel Shabalin
• Iljas Tukhvatullin

Popovich and Mariev are reportedly sitting at Camp 1 at this time and recuperating.  The remaining nine that summited today are now resting at Camps 5 and 6 before going to lower ground a bit later.

The Russians have been laying an assault on K2’s West Face for more than two weeks–many of the climbers had lay low at Camps 5, 6, and 7 for roughly 4-5 days awaiting a chance at the summit and for the bad weather to break just enough to scramble to the top.  The 4 to 5 day wait had the members bunkered down in the K2 Death Zone–which could possibly be a survival record as well, but this has not been confirmed.

It looks like all are safely headed to lower ground.  Let’s hope they all get back without incident and they can all relish in this historic First Ascent.

For more on this breaking news, head on over to ExplorersWeb.

First West Face K2 Summits…EVER! Mariev and Popovich Capture Historical First Ascent!

Andrew Mariev and Vadim Popovich have claimed the first summits of K2’s West Face.  After spending weeks of battling the weather and days bunkered down in the dreaded Death Zone, the two finally made contact by radio at 10:23 am this morning telling the world that they were definately on the summit.

K2’s West Face had never played host to a successful summit bid…until today.  K2’s North Face and East Face still remain to be conquered.

Mariev and Popovich have successfully descended to Camp 6 as of 6:15 PM and are currently resting up.  Meanwhile, there are currently 2 climbers still positioned at K2’s Camp 7, and another 7 Climbers at Camp 6–still awaiting for their own push to the West Face Summit.

Early this morning the weather looked to be a little shakey.  Red Clouds surrounded K2’s summit and 30 to 50 mph winds were being reported.  Popovich and Mariev set out early to begin scouting the area to see how bad things really were.  Before anyone had realized it, the two were calling back down from the summit.

On another note, it seems the weather system that everyone has been waiting so patiently to pass–has finally began to simmer down.  The clouds have vanished and the winds are slowly abating.  It could be a long and interesting night for the climbers still bunkered down in the higher camps.

Since Popovich and Mariev have successfully summited–in what many considered questionable weather–you can bet that the teams still waiting in Camps 6 and 7 will be trying to shoot up K2’s West Face on their final push as quickly as possible.  Possibly tonight.

The Adventurist congratulates Andrew Mariev and Vadim Popovich on the first ever summit of K2’s West Face.  This has definately been a historical climb in every sense of the word…AND…did I mention that they done all of this with no supplemental O2?  Well done guys!

If you would like to read more on this historical achievement, head on over to K2Climb.net for the latest on this Expedition.

Free-Solo Climbing? Magazine Looking to Interview YOU!!

Would you like to be interviewed for a magazine?  A good friend of mine is currently seeking Free-Solo Climbers to interview for an upcoming magazine with Free Solo Climbing as the focus of this special issue.

With the recent death of Michael Reardon making headlines around the world, it has brought this sport into the headlines like never before.  Want to speak out and be a part of this experience?  Send a short note to my email in the box below.  (It goes directly to my email)

As if this isn’t cool enough, there is going to be a Michael Reardon tribute, photos, and interview, with the tribute written by myself, as well as an interview with the man known as “Spiderman”, Alain Robert–who has scaled some of the world’s toughest climbs, as well as tallest skyscrapers…YIKES!

Let me be absolutely clear.  I am currently looking for Free Solo Climbers (Only) to take part in a special magazine dedicated to this sport.  If you are a Free Soloist..Contact me!  Through this process, the goal is to help demystify a sport that gets a lot of bad press.  This could very well be a crucial piece of the puzzle in the sport we all love.  Now get to writing….

[contact-form]

The Story Gets Deeper…( A Note on Bear Grylls)

Many of my readers will recognize Bear’s name.  I covered his recent attempt to Paraglide OVER Mt. Everest.  It seems like his name is back in the news again..

A couple of weeks ago, ExplorersWeb ran a piece about Bear not flying over the top of Mt. Everest.  Many people were led to believe that this was his intentions–yet, we think Bear Grylls may have pulled a whammy on everyone and played with the word “Over” a bit.  Over, referring in this case to above the height of Mt. Everest, not actually over the top.

Bear Grylls is now being questioned once again.  This time it is about his Television series Man vs. Wild.  Bear has made it seem that at points he was fighting for ultimate survival on his show, when in fact, once the tape ends, he high-tails it out of Dodge and relaxes in the sweet comfort of the Hilton, till the next taping.  Now I am not so sure what to make of all this.  I mean, Bear did officially summit Everest at 23 years old…

It seems that his antics have once again landed him in some hot water.  For more on this story I will refer you to The Adventure Blog who has been doing an excellent job of following all the latest with Bear.

Backcountry Survival: Do you know what to do?

Many of us often get side-tracked with our exploring.  That trail ahead just looks mighty boring compared to the rugged rocky peak that lingers right off the path…Come on now, we have all done that.

Would you know what to do if you actually lost your way though?  The Outside Blog is currently running a few pointers over the course of three days, if you would indeed find yourself in this situation.

The first tip they have offered if you are lost is to stop.  Give yourself time to relax.  It seems that getting lost makes us lose our sense of what is going on around us.  It also makes our heartrate go haywire.  In order to get our minds back to where they need to be–which is thinking rationally, they suggest stopping for a half hour or so, drinking some water, and then think about what is going on.  This will give your body the chance to calm down, as well as relax the mind a bit. 

I think that is a good idea.  Any of us who have been caught in this position can relate..we want to find the quickest way out possible, yet, almost always, we just get more frustrated and even more lost. 

Their second segment  talks about a few of the biggest killers known to the Outdoor Adventurer…that is right, Bees, Wasps, Spiders, and Ants.  For some reason we all here about the killer bears, but never the Bees, Wasps, Spiders, and Ants that tragically kill more people in a year than has ever been killed by bears in the wild.

Actually I did learn something with this information that I did not know.  Did you know that a Bee sting actually carries Pheromones that attracts other bees?  This is where the trouble begins.  One Bee hits you then before you know it, your swatting at a slowly gathering swarm.  The safest thing to do for Bees and Wasps is to either get inside, get covered, or Go underwater.

Also, it is noted that a Bee or Wasp sting can bring up a highly alergic reaction which could cause Anaphylactic Shock.  If you are aware of any allergic reaction to this type of sting, it is recommended that you carry an Epi Pen (which is available by perscription only) with you anytime you are out and about.

As far as Spiders go, they only attack when they feel threatened.  There are close to 50 different Spiders that are known to bite people in the US–with the feared Brown Recluse being the most dangerous.

The Brown Recluse Spider can deliver a devastating bite that will actually start dissolving your tissue and can lead to death in severe cases. 

The best advice they give for a spider bite of any kind is to get away and seek medical attention as soon as possible. 

In order to tell if it is actually a Brown Recluse or not, you will have to look at the spider’s back.  There is a tell-all sign–the weird marking that actually looks like a violin found on it’s back–even if that little sign is there, don’t fret to much if you discover the bite right away.  In most cases you will not die and it can be treated.

Here is a real life example:  I work with a lady who was working on her farm.  She tripped going into their grain silo and landed on a whole nest of Brown Recluses.  She got bit close to 200 times.  She did not die, but she does have some nerve damage from this unfortunate event.  Needless to say, the best advice is to seek medical attention for any kindof spider bite.  For the most part, you will not even know what got you, as spiders tend to hide pretty well.

As The Outside Blog posts more to this ongoing series, I will update you.  There is definately some good information, and who knows, perhaps one of these tips could just save your Life.

Italian Climber Stefano Zafka Missing on K2

Italian Climber Stefano Zafka has gone missing in harsh conditions on K2.  He had been climbing with the Mountain Freedom Expedition, who made a successful summit of K2 on Friday. 

During his descent, Zafka apparently has gotten lost due to disturbing weather conditions high up.  He is without any radio communication.

Zafka’s misfortunes began on Friday when he was reported as missing.  He never showed up to Camp 4.  On Saturday, his teammates decided to go ahead and descend to K2 basecamp because the weather was deteriorating so rapidly.  They left behind a tent at Camp 4 in hopes that Zafka could eventually make his way to this bit of safety.

There has still been no word on his where-abouts at this time.  Climbers have been debating trying to make a run up K2 to Camp 4–but the weather is extremely dangerous, especially above the 20,00o foot mark.

K2 currently holds a 24% death rate.  The highest of any mountain.  One in four perish while trying to successfully summit, or descend this massive Pakistani peak.

Let’s all hope for the best out of this situation, but the one question I have is…He is climbing with a team.  Why did they descend without him?

Sometimes, as things seem to be getting better with climbing ethics, we are still running into these “avoidable” situations.

It is very unfortunate and we hope for the best.

Introducing the Amazing(ly Weird) Tent-Chair!

Ok, sometimes a new piece of equipment will catch your eye and make you want to mortgage out your wife.  Not so with this piece.  Strangely enough I ran into a good review of the amazing Tent-Chair on a camping blog I visit from time to time.  Just makes me wonder…

The Tent-Chair is suppose to help you keep the elements out of your face and the sun off your head, which it might very well do, but…..why?

The post goes on to add that these are perfect for the people that want to be outside in the rain…perhaps perfect for that day of fishing or even a parade….yep, a parade–let me guess…in the rain?

Now I am not one to shoot down anyone’s ingenuity–this country has been well represented in the idea and invention field’s for hundreds of years–but a chair with a tent on the back just seems a bit ridiculous.

First off, if it is raining at your campsite–wouldn’t you still get wet walking to your Tent-Chair?  After you have even made it as far as the chair, your legs are still unprotected from the rain.

Another point.  The only reason to have this item at a parade is to draw some attention to yourself and have people interupting you about what it is, exactly, that you are sitting in.  How many people would complain behind you, trying to see the festivities.  I can give this contraption one good advantage at a parade though….Candy.  Yep, candy.  You see, the back of this thing will actually catch the pieces that are thrown just out of reach..so there is the first plus..

Now on to fishing.  I am no pro fisherman, but I do realize that when you cast, you need room on both sides of your arms…the tent will hamper this action.  And if you decide to stand and cast, well, do I even have to mention you will be getting wet from the rain you are trying to protect yourself from in the first place?

Ok, so this isn’t my normal type of gear review.  I was just so dumbfounded on the reasonings behind this.  I am not sure what this thing will set you back, but at this time, I would like to make a counter-offer.  If you send me the full price for a Tent-Chair, I will send you something that will do all the work that this does, yet look a lot cooler—A used baseball cap and a bottle of sunscreen.

K2 Summits, New Route on Gasherbrum II, and more..

Over the past week most of my time has been used covering the recent Michael Reardon tragedy.  This is not to say that nothing was happening though, but I felt that I had the opportunity to do something for Michael and his family and friends that other sites just couldn’t do.

To get back up to pace, I will be offering a synopsis of what has been going around in the headlines.  So let’s jump right in…

Avalanche on Gasherbrum II

On July 19, a massive avalanche was reported from Gasherbrum II.  The Amical Team, hoping for a summit push, was suddenly buried in snow.  One member died in this tragic incident, another member was unable to be located, and the rest of the team suffered various degrees on injury.

Hirotaki Takeuchi, a member of the devestated Amical team, reported in to ExplorersWeb about the incident saying that the group got swept up in the avalanche and carried down 300 meters to the seracs. 

Other teams on GII soon went up and helped in a massive search and rescue which resulted in Hirotaki and others being able to survive this ordeal.  Much credit is given to these teams in their efforts for this rescue between Camps 2 & 3 on Gasherbrum II.

Italians Summit Gasherbrum II, Establish New Route

Karl Unterkircher, Daniele Bernasconi, and Michele Compagnoni made alpine history today as they successfully summited Gasherbrum II via a new route–The North Face.

The team had been climbing for the past three days, and began a successful push for the summit a bit earlier today.  This is great news following the tragedy on GII earlier this week with the Amical Team.

For more on this story, please stop by The Adventure Blog for more information.

Massive Summits on K2 Today

Around 3:30 Pm today reports started circulating that the first team to reach K2’s summit this season had arrived.  That was just the beginning though…17 more climbers would soon top out on what many people claim as the world’s deadliest mountain.

Over the years, K2 has had a total of 269 summits.  That is right, 269.  In Comparison, Mt. Everest, the world’s highest peak as well as most publicised, had well over 500 summits….this year alone.  K2 has also claimed the lives of 69 people in the process, giving it a death-to-success ratio of 24%.  One in four have died trying to bag this coveted peak.

For more on the list of successful K2 summiters today, I will refer you to ExplorersWeb for the complete story.

On a sad note, a yet unnamed Sherpa took a tragic fall and perished during today’s activities.  The Sherpa, who was working with the Korean Men’s Team, slipped and began to fall.  Two climber’s close to him tried to grab him as he came by, but they were unsuccessful in their attempt.  More details on this tragic incident will be expected in the coming days.

For Michael: Family, Friends, and Associates Speak Out

I am opening up this forum for the family, friends, and associates of Michael Reardon.  You may say what you like.  We will leave this as a tribute to the man and the myth, Michael Reardon.  (Click the ‘MORE’ tag to go to the comments page.) Read more

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