Disturbing Video: The Failed Rescue of Argentinian Guide Federico Campinini On Aconcagua

News broke back on January 12th that an Argentinian mountain guide and an Italian climber had been killed while trying to climb Aconcagua, South America’s highest peak.  The names were not known at the time of my first posting about this incident, and coincidentally, not much else had been mentioned about this accident until a very disturbing video recently surfaced.  The cause of the ‘accident’ was first attributed to a storm that had supposedly taken place near the summit of Aconcagua.  By looking at the video, you can definitely tell that conditions were not the best.  These may or may not have contributed to the eventual deaths of the two climbers, but as you can tell, it was also a small part of the overall picture of what actually occured on January 9th.

We now know that the Argentinian guide was Federico Campinini.  This video captures the rescue attempt of Mr. Campinini.  This video is very disturbing in it’s details of what is taking place.  All commentary in the video is in Spanish–just watch the video and I will explain what is going on beneath-

This video shows rescuers attempting to bring down Mr. Campinini.  The commentary includes rescuers ridiculing Campinini.  On numerous occasions they mutter the word ‘idiot’ at him, while also pushing, pulling, and dragging on him by a single rope.  It is thought that the rescuers believed Campinini was dead before they were summoned for the rescue attempt.  With this in mind, the rescuers failed to bring proper equipment along to aid in a successful rescue.  At about the 1 minute mark, you can plainly see Campinini trying to make a move to get up and going–he gets up on his knees–then the rescuers, rather than help him to get up, start pulling on him to get him moving.

Read more

American Climber Dies On Aconcagua

An American climber has died while trying to scale Aconcagua, South America’s highest peak.  Details are still a bit sketchy, but it seems like the climber was hit by falling rock.  An Argentine Army patrol was running training missions in the area when they came across the climber screaming for help.  The army patrol began to make rescue efforts to get the climber down, but he died about an hour later, before the patrol got him to base camp.

The climber is thought to be Arthur D’Lisle, a 51 year-old climber from Kansas who was climbing alone.  This has NOT been confirmed by the U.S. Embassy, but is being reported by the Associated Press.  It is thought that he died of a head injury and a collapsed lung.

D’Lisle’s death, once confirmed, will be the fifth death this month on South America’s highest peak.  I reported on January 12th, that two climbers had been caught in a storm and died.  Those two were an Argentine guide and an Italian lady.  A German climber died from a crevasse fall, an English climber died of a heart attack a few feet from the summit.  Aconcagua generally averages 3 deaths during the summer climbing season.

Let’s keep this latest climber and his family in our thoughts and prayers.  I will offer more details once this information has been officially confirmed by the U.S. Embassy in Argentina.

American Climber Dies Enroute to Shisha Pangma

The fall Himalayan season has just kicked off and already, we are hearing reports that an American climber has died. 

Ray Yeritsian, originally from Armenia-but moved to the States in 1991–died while enroute to Shisha Pangma.  He was set to climb Shisha with an expedition team from Asian Trekking.

From ExplorersWeb:

The team was supposed to start out on 11th of September. Due to landslide, the expedition was delayed and planned to reach base camp on September 15. But according to Doctors, Ray suffered a ruptured artery in Nyalam.

Ray was an avid climber.  He had taken on many of the World’s top peaks including successful summits of Aconcagua and Denali and a failed attempt on Mt. Everest in 2000.

Asian Trekking is reporting that Ray’s body is enroute to the United States on request from the family.

Our thoughts and Prayers go out to Ray and his family and friends.

K2 Summits, New Route on Gasherbrum II, and more..

Over the past week most of my time has been used covering the recent Michael Reardon tragedy.  This is not to say that nothing was happening though, but I felt that I had the opportunity to do something for Michael and his family and friends that other sites just couldn’t do.

To get back up to pace, I will be offering a synopsis of what has been going around in the headlines.  So let’s jump right in…

Avalanche on Gasherbrum II

On July 19, a massive avalanche was reported from Gasherbrum II.  The Amical Team, hoping for a summit push, was suddenly buried in snow.  One member died in this tragic incident, another member was unable to be located, and the rest of the team suffered various degrees on injury.

Hirotaki Takeuchi, a member of the devestated Amical team, reported in to ExplorersWeb about the incident saying that the group got swept up in the avalanche and carried down 300 meters to the seracs. 

Other teams on GII soon went up and helped in a massive search and rescue which resulted in Hirotaki and others being able to survive this ordeal.  Much credit is given to these teams in their efforts for this rescue between Camps 2 & 3 on Gasherbrum II.

Italians Summit Gasherbrum II, Establish New Route

Karl Unterkircher, Daniele Bernasconi, and Michele Compagnoni made alpine history today as they successfully summited Gasherbrum II via a new route–The North Face.

The team had been climbing for the past three days, and began a successful push for the summit a bit earlier today.  This is great news following the tragedy on GII earlier this week with the Amical Team.

For more on this story, please stop by The Adventure Blog for more information.

Massive Summits on K2 Today

Around 3:30 Pm today reports started circulating that the first team to reach K2’s summit this season had arrived.  That was just the beginning though…17 more climbers would soon top out on what many people claim as the world’s deadliest mountain.

Over the years, K2 has had a total of 269 summits.  That is right, 269.  In Comparison, Mt. Everest, the world’s highest peak as well as most publicised, had well over 500 summits….this year alone.  K2 has also claimed the lives of 69 people in the process, giving it a death-to-success ratio of 24%.  One in four have died trying to bag this coveted peak.

For more on the list of successful K2 summiters today, I will refer you to ExplorersWeb for the complete story.

On a sad note, a yet unnamed Sherpa took a tragic fall and perished during today’s activities.  The Sherpa, who was working with the Korean Men’s Team, slipped and began to fall.  Two climber’s close to him tried to grab him as he came by, but they were unsuccessful in their attempt.  More details on this tragic incident will be expected in the coming days.

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

Swiss Avalanche Kills 6 Climbers

Some sad news coming from Switzerland today as it is being reported that six climbers have been killed in a massive avalanche taking place on Jangfrau Peak in Central Switzerland.

The Swiss Army has not confirmed who the climbers are at this time, but they are questioning that perhaps it could be members of their own team.  The Swiss Army is reporting that they had two teams of three new recruits that had been training in the area at the time of the accident.

Jangfrau Peak stands at 13,642 feet high.  The climbers had reached a height of 12,470 feet when new snow gave way beneath them and sent them plummeting to the valley below.

The bodies of all 6 climbers have been recovered and official word as to who they are is still waiting to be released.

For the Associated Press News Story on this tragic event, Please click HERE.

BREAKING NEWS UPDATE: Body of Christine Boskoff Found

In December of 2006, two high profile climbers Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler went missing in the Sechuan Province of China.

The subsequent news of this event shook the climbing community to it’s foundation.  At the time in December 2006, much of the world was focused on three lost climbers on Mt. Hood in Oregon and the ensuing Rescue mission that eventually turned into a Recovery.

Charlie Fowler, a world reknown climber and photographer, along with Christine Boskoff, a World class climber in her own right and subsequent owner of Mountain Madness, one of the world’s leading mountain expedition companies,  set out to claim some unchartered peaks in China.  A vacation they had been planning on for two years.

The two soon dissappeared and an all out search effort ensued in China with little media coverage.

On December 29, 2006 Charlie Fowler’s body was found on Genyen Peak, but there were no signs of Christine.

On January 2, 2007 the search for Christine Boskoff was essentially called off with her being presumed dead.

On July 8th 2007, Everest is Ours, A Blog discussing Mt. Everest and the Climbing world made a post about the continued search for Christine Boskoff.  You may find that HERE.

Also this month Climbing Magazine, which I am a subscriber also ran a story about Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler and the continued efforts to find Christine.

Today it is being reported by Mountain Madness President Mark Gunlogson that Christine Boskoff’s Body has been found near where Charlie Fowler’s was found last December.

Here is Mountain Madness’ Complete Press Release:

SEATTLE July 9, 2007 – The body of accomplished US climber Christine Boskoff was found in the mountains of southern China on July 3rd, local China time.  The search and recovery team supported by Mountain Madness, the Seattle-based adventure guide company owned by Boskoff, resumed their search for Boskoff last May on the remote mountain peak of Genyan Massif in Sichuan Province. 

Last November, Boskoff and her climbing partner Charlie Fowler, also a renowned high-altitude mountain climber, were on a personal climbing expedition in Sichuan Province when the pair failed to return to the U.S.  Fowler’s body was recovered on December 27th, and search crews ceased their efforts to search and recover Boskoff until the spring due to winter weather.  Both are believed to have died in an avalanche.

“We resumed the search and recovery efforts for Chris once the weather improved and rock fall hazards lessened,” said Mark Gunlogson, president of Mountain Madness.  “This latest news brings closure to what was a great loss for her family, friends, Mountain Madness and the climbing community.  Chris lived life to the fullest and she died doing what she loved best in one of her most favorite places to climb.” 

“Chris established a legacy as one of the most successful female high altitude mountaineers in history, having climbed six 8,000 meter peaks including two successful ascents of Everest. She brought her tremendous climbing experience, unique humility for someone so accomplished, and love of the mountains to Mountain Madness and its many clients where she built one of the world’s foremost climbing organizations. We will miss her enthusiasm and infectious smile, but will continue to draw upon her spirit as we move forward,” said David C. Jones, Mountain Madness board member. 

A memorial fund to benefit Room to Read has been set up in Boskoff’s name to benefit school children in Nepal.  Boskoff was a former board member of the non-profit organization that helps establish schools, libraries and other educational infrastructures in developing countries.  Room to Read is building a school in Nepal in Boskoff’s honor.  Donations to the Boskoff memorial fund, as well as surplus funds from the Boskoff-Fowler search and recovery fund, will go to support the school in Nepal and scholarships for girls throughout the country.

“She was passionate about climbing and her love of the people and the cultures she traveled to, especially the children of Nepal and we’re honored to be a part of this lasting memorial for Chris,” said John Wood, founder and chief executive officer of Room to Read.  “She was selfless in pursuit of our mission and passionate in her belief that children throughout the developing world should have access to great schools, teachers, libraries and books.”

To support the Boskoff memorial fund donations can be made at www.roomtoread.com or by sending a check to: 

Room to Read – Mountain Madness Appeal
The Presidio
PO Box 29127
San Francisco, CA 94129

About Mountain Madness:
Founded in 1984, Mountain Madness is an adventure guide travel service and mountaineering school based in Seattle, Washington.  The company provides adventure-guided expeditions in Africa, Antarctica, Asia, Europe, North America, South America and Oceania, as well as courses in rock climbing, avalanche and skiing.  For more info: www.mountainmadness.com

Contact:
Mark Gunlogson
Mountain Madness
206-937-8389
markg@mountainmadness.com

(Editor’s Note:  This article was compiled from information obtained from the following sources:  The Adventure Blog, the Everest is Ours Blog, and the MountainMadness Website as well as information contained here in The Adventurist.)

If you would like to catch up on the search for Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler, you may do so by clicking the following link for The Adventurist’s full coverage.

BREAKING NEWS: DHAULAGIRI AVALANCHE CLAIMS RICARDO VALENCIA AND SANTIAGO SAGASTE, TWO OTHERS SURVIVE

ExplorersWeb has posted that Ricardo Valencia and Santiago Sagaste were killed today in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri.

The avalanche occured at Camp 2 as the spanish expedition, the only expedition still at Dhaulagiri, were waiting out a storm at Camp 2 to proceed to the summit–

The Avalanche swept down as Valencia and Sagaste were in their tents waiting out the storm. 

Two other members of the Spanish Expedition, Javi Serrano and Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbruner survived the ordeal in their tents only a couple of meters away but did lose all of their climbing gear and supplies in the process.

Serrano and Kaltenbruner were helped down Dhaulagiri by two more spanish expedition team members that were stationed at Camp 1.

The team had launched a bid for the summit on Friday but got caught in a storm and were in the process of waiting it out before they proceeded.

The Adventurist would like to offer it’s condolences to the family, friends, and associates of these two lost climbers.  Our Prayers are with you tonight and in the coming days.

BREAKING NEWS UPDATE: Five Missing Climbers on Mt. Hood–May 12, 2007

After going to a couple of different sources, I can now give you a better update of the situation on Mt. Hood that has taken place tonight.

The five climbers are stranded at the 9,800 foot level on Mt. Hood.  They are currently in contact with Mt. Hood and Hood River Authorities.

The climbers were wearing tracking devices which are now the law in Oregon and on Mt. Hood.

Sheriff’s spokesman Jim Strovink said the climbers had a mountain locator device, a global positioning system and were in contact by cell phone.

The climbers have been advised to build a snowcave until a possible rescue attempt in the morning can be made.

The names of the five climbers involved, at this time, are not being made public.

The circumstances surrounding their difficulty on Mt. Hood was apparently involving bad weather and near white-out conditions.

It is noted that at this time, all five climbers are safe and doing well.  No injuries have occured and a rescue attempt will be made in the morning.

Let’s all keep our fingers crossed. 

It is noted that with all the publicity last year of the three climbers who tragically perished on Mt. Hood in December, that there has been quite a bit of coverage taking place on these Mt. Hood Incidents.  It is also noted that in any given year that there are roughly 20 search and rescue efforts that take place on Mt. Hood.

Last year’s tragedy brought Mt. Hood to the limelight and ever since, any time a climber gets into trouble it makes national news, but keep in mind–most of these search and rescue efforts, especially in the spring and summertime are successful.

BREAKING NEWS: Five Climbers Go Missing on Mt. Hood

Five Climbers have been reported missing on Mt. Hood this evening.  Not alot of information is known at this time about who the climbers are or their situation, but a search and rescue effort has been put in to place.  It has been noted that the climbers were in contact at one point with the rescue team but their exact location on Mt. Hood is currently unknown.

The climbers had left the Timberline Lodge earlier today.

As this story developes, I will refer back to some of my old sources on my previous coverage of The Mt. Hood Tragedy in December of 2006, in an effort to keep you posted on any new developements.

Once again, Five Climbers have went missing on Mt. Hood.  Further details will be forthcoming as this story breaks and more information is released. 

These Climbers are in our thoughts and Prayers tonight as this rescue mission takes shape.  We all hope and pray for a safe recovery and that everyone will be ok.

This story was first brought to my attention by the great folks at the Blogging Mt. Hood website.

Next Page »