Copp and Dash Conquer Shaffat Fortress

The Alpinist is reporting that an American team of two climbers have mastered a highly-technical problem in India’s Zanskar Mountains.  The team of Jonny Copp and Micah Dash made the first ascent of an 1,100 meter rock wall known as the Shaffatt Fortress.

The two Colorado natives climbed the 21 pitch, 5.11 grade Fortress from a new route they designated the Colorado Route.  This new route took the pair of climbers from August 8-11 to finish and included some pretty scary momments.

The pair also said they witnessed rare snow leopard tracks and found some ancient pottery along the way.  If you would like to read the complete trip report and details, check out The Alpinist for their special report.

K2 Summits, New Route on Gasherbrum II, and more..

Over the past week most of my time has been used covering the recent Michael Reardon tragedy.  This is not to say that nothing was happening though, but I felt that I had the opportunity to do something for Michael and his family and friends that other sites just couldn’t do.

To get back up to pace, I will be offering a synopsis of what has been going around in the headlines.  So let’s jump right in…

Avalanche on Gasherbrum II

On July 19, a massive avalanche was reported from Gasherbrum II.  The Amical Team, hoping for a summit push, was suddenly buried in snow.  One member died in this tragic incident, another member was unable to be located, and the rest of the team suffered various degrees on injury.

Hirotaki Takeuchi, a member of the devestated Amical team, reported in to ExplorersWeb about the incident saying that the group got swept up in the avalanche and carried down 300 meters to the seracs. 

Other teams on GII soon went up and helped in a massive search and rescue which resulted in Hirotaki and others being able to survive this ordeal.  Much credit is given to these teams in their efforts for this rescue between Camps 2 & 3 on Gasherbrum II.

Italians Summit Gasherbrum II, Establish New Route

Karl Unterkircher, Daniele Bernasconi, and Michele Compagnoni made alpine history today as they successfully summited Gasherbrum II via a new route–The North Face.

The team had been climbing for the past three days, and began a successful push for the summit a bit earlier today.  This is great news following the tragedy on GII earlier this week with the Amical Team.

For more on this story, please stop by The Adventure Blog for more information.

Massive Summits on K2 Today

Around 3:30 Pm today reports started circulating that the first team to reach K2’s summit this season had arrived.  That was just the beginning though…17 more climbers would soon top out on what many people claim as the world’s deadliest mountain.

Over the years, K2 has had a total of 269 summits.  That is right, 269.  In Comparison, Mt. Everest, the world’s highest peak as well as most publicised, had well over 500 summits….this year alone.  K2 has also claimed the lives of 69 people in the process, giving it a death-to-success ratio of 24%.  One in four have died trying to bag this coveted peak.

For more on the list of successful K2 summiters today, I will refer you to ExplorersWeb for the complete story.

On a sad note, a yet unnamed Sherpa took a tragic fall and perished during today’s activities.  The Sherpa, who was working with the Korean Men’s Team, slipped and began to fall.  Two climber’s close to him tried to grab him as he came by, but they were unsuccessful in their attempt.  More details on this tragic incident will be expected in the coming days.

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

Swiss Avalanche Kills 6 Climbers

Some sad news coming from Switzerland today as it is being reported that six climbers have been killed in a massive avalanche taking place on Jangfrau Peak in Central Switzerland.

The Swiss Army has not confirmed who the climbers are at this time, but they are questioning that perhaps it could be members of their own team.  The Swiss Army is reporting that they had two teams of three new recruits that had been training in the area at the time of the accident.

Jangfrau Peak stands at 13,642 feet high.  The climbers had reached a height of 12,470 feet when new snow gave way beneath them and sent them plummeting to the valley below.

The bodies of all 6 climbers have been recovered and official word as to who they are is still waiting to be released.

For the Associated Press News Story on this tragic event, Please click HERE.

Everest 2007 Update: Summits and Death on Everest

Everyone knew that lastnight was going to be as busy or busier than the night before on the world’s highest mountain.  Here is a rundown to get everyone up to date on the happenings on Mt. Everest lastnight.

Sadly, Three People Have Died

It is being widely reported that there were a few deaths on Everest lastnight.  Two Koreans and a Japanese climber perished.  Here is what is known at this time:

The Koreans–Ho Hee-Joon, 37, as well as Lee Hyun-Jo, 35, both perished from a rockfall incident.  The two climbers were well respected in the climbing community and had many accomplishments under their belts.  They were both members of Park Young-Seok’s Expedition. Ho Hee-Joon had successfully summited 10 of the world’s 14 8,000 meter peaks and was making an attempt at his 11th, Everest.  The two were climbing from the Southwest Face and the accident occured between 7,700 and 8,300 meters.  At this time it is not known if the two were ascending or descending.

The third climber to perish lastnight on Everest was a 62 year old Japanese climber that died just a few meters from the summit upon his descent.

Yoshitomi Okura, had successfully summited Everest but died while trying to descend.  A sherpa tried to help him out but it was to late.  Mr. Okura was a member of the Tokyo based Adventure Guides Co. and he had successfully climbed Cho Oyu in 2003 and was making his 3rd attempt on Everest.

Many people lastnight were mentioning that there had been reports of death and perhaps a high-altitude rescue in progress.  At this time, with the names being released, I can confirm the three deaths.  The rescue attempt that many were noticing from below, could very well have been from one of these incidents.

Alan Arnette, is also reporting two more incidents-One involving a Japanese Girl on the North Side and the other a Czech climber.  I have not been able to confirm either of these at this time.

With so many people heading to the summit at once, news of this nature is not unusual.  In the coming days, I am sure more facts will be coming out related to these accidents.

The Adventurist gives it’s condolences to the family, friends, and associates of these fallen climbers and our prayers are with you tonight.

Now on to the good news..

SUMMITS GALORE!!

The night began rather quickly lastnight with teams on the North and South both looking for their summit pushes.

SuperSherpas and Mountain Madness teamed up to place all of each teams members at the summit from the South.  Apa, from SuperSherpas, claimed his 17th Everest summit breaking his own world record for most Everest summits ever.  Lhakpa Gelu, his partner, claimed his 13th successful summit of Everest.

Following this news came the news that fellow Sherpa, Tashi Tenzing, had made a successful summit as well along with his client.  This is reportedly Tashi’s last time on Everest.  Tashi Tenzing is Tenzing Norgay’s grandson, the man who first stepped upon the summit of Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary.

So the night began very historical in nature..

Other teams to summit included a team of Philipine Women, who were the only other team besides David Tait to traverse Everest this season and go from one side to the other…they also became the first women to ever do so.  Great Job ladies.

Other climbers of note to summit:

Andy Pizzarro of Learning Without Limits as well as Andy van der Velde from South Africa.

Overall there were roughly another 50 summits coming from the North as well as 27 coming from the South.  In the coming days more will be said about this courageous night.

Don’t Think it is Over though

We have just crossed the 100 summits mark on Everest this season, but as EverestNews reminds us, last year there were around 480 successful summits.  They are also speculating that there could be anywhere from 1-200 more summits coming in the next two days.

The deaths reported on Everest lastnight, anywhere from 3-5 depending on the sources, will put the total of deaths on Everest at roughly half of what they were last season at 11.  If you will remember, Dawa Sherpa perished earlier this season and up until lastnight night had been the only confirmed death on Everest.

As far as the two Koreans who died, sources are saying that their bodies will be brought back down for proper burial, so there will be some activity in that direction in the coming days.

For everyone that summited lastnight:  CONGRATULATIONS!  and for all the ones to come: GOOD LUCK< The World is watching!

Everest 2007 Update: Mass Exodus For Summit, as Day 2 Summit Push Begins

Day two is shaping up to be busier than today as far as Everest and the push for the summit go.

From the North Side, there will possibly be another 50-60 people attempting the climb up the North Ridge Route, and from the South, many are expecting the same.

Here are the teams to look for:

From the North

The female team of Philipines are sitting at 8300 meters now and are planning their final push tonight.  Also on the North, Cato Pederson, will be planning his “Unarmed” Everest Push has he tries to make a successfull summit attempt after losing both of his arms many years ago.  Other teams:

Manny Pizzaro, SummitClimb (second phase), Scottish Scouts, Nives Meroi and Romana Benet, as well as Kari Kobler to name a few…

From the South Col

Supersherpas, who will be ascending around 9 pm tonight, IMG, Adventure Consultants, Exploradus…all of them are in the works to make an attempt, if not tonight, then definately by morning.

The Weather

As mentioned earlier today, many expeditions and climbers are predicting a small 48 hour window here before bad weather sets back in.  Many teams are trying a scramble for the top, while others are trying to use their “sixth sense” and hope for a better opportunity and hopefully less crowds as well..

It is noted that after David Tait successfully crossed from the North Ridge to The South Col and eventually down to Camp 2–that the teams on the South have been busy, busy.  David was able to break trail and fix the rest of the ropes that the South needed in order to finish their push to the summit.   The South now has plenty of trail to follow and ropes leading their way..

Great job David on making this all possible and jumpstarting the South Summit Push as well..

As Always I will bring you the latest as I hear it.

BREAKING NEWS: DHAULAGIRI AVALANCHE CLAIMS RICARDO VALENCIA AND SANTIAGO SAGASTE, TWO OTHERS SURVIVE

ExplorersWeb has posted that Ricardo Valencia and Santiago Sagaste were killed today in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri.

The avalanche occured at Camp 2 as the spanish expedition, the only expedition still at Dhaulagiri, were waiting out a storm at Camp 2 to proceed to the summit–

The Avalanche swept down as Valencia and Sagaste were in their tents waiting out the storm. 

Two other members of the Spanish Expedition, Javi Serrano and Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbruner survived the ordeal in their tents only a couple of meters away but did lose all of their climbing gear and supplies in the process.

Serrano and Kaltenbruner were helped down Dhaulagiri by two more spanish expedition team members that were stationed at Camp 1.

The team had launched a bid for the summit on Friday but got caught in a storm and were in the process of waiting it out before they proceeded.

The Adventurist would like to offer it’s condolences to the family, friends, and associates of these two lost climbers.  Our Prayers are with you tonight and in the coming days.

BREAKING NEWS UPDATE: Five Missing Climbers on Mt. Hood–May 12, 2007

After going to a couple of different sources, I can now give you a better update of the situation on Mt. Hood that has taken place tonight.

The five climbers are stranded at the 9,800 foot level on Mt. Hood.  They are currently in contact with Mt. Hood and Hood River Authorities.

The climbers were wearing tracking devices which are now the law in Oregon and on Mt. Hood.

Sheriff’s spokesman Jim Strovink said the climbers had a mountain locator device, a global positioning system and were in contact by cell phone.

The climbers have been advised to build a snowcave until a possible rescue attempt in the morning can be made.

The names of the five climbers involved, at this time, are not being made public.

The circumstances surrounding their difficulty on Mt. Hood was apparently involving bad weather and near white-out conditions.

It is noted that at this time, all five climbers are safe and doing well.  No injuries have occured and a rescue attempt will be made in the morning.

Let’s all keep our fingers crossed. 

It is noted that with all the publicity last year of the three climbers who tragically perished on Mt. Hood in December, that there has been quite a bit of coverage taking place on these Mt. Hood Incidents.  It is also noted that in any given year that there are roughly 20 search and rescue efforts that take place on Mt. Hood.

Last year’s tragedy brought Mt. Hood to the limelight and ever since, any time a climber gets into trouble it makes national news, but keep in mind–most of these search and rescue efforts, especially in the spring and summertime are successful.

BREAKING NEWS: Five Climbers Go Missing on Mt. Hood

Five Climbers have been reported missing on Mt. Hood this evening.  Not alot of information is known at this time about who the climbers are or their situation, but a search and rescue effort has been put in to place.  It has been noted that the climbers were in contact at one point with the rescue team but their exact location on Mt. Hood is currently unknown.

The climbers had left the Timberline Lodge earlier today.

As this story developes, I will refer back to some of my old sources on my previous coverage of The Mt. Hood Tragedy in December of 2006, in an effort to keep you posted on any new developements.

Once again, Five Climbers have went missing on Mt. Hood.  Further details will be forthcoming as this story breaks and more information is released. 

These Climbers are in our thoughts and Prayers tonight as this rescue mission takes shape.  We all hope and pray for a safe recovery and that everyone will be ok.

This story was first brought to my attention by the great folks at the Blogging Mt. Hood website.

Christine Boskoff Still Missing, Chinese Hampering Search?

In December 2006, Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler went missing while on a climbing expedition in China.  Charlie Fowler’s body was found in the snow on the desolate and hard to reach mountain in December.  It was presumed that Christine was dead as well.

There is a new UPDATE coming in today of this search and rescue attempt in China.

Mountain Madness has stated that the search for Christine Boskoff was called off last December after heavy snow and a huge avalanche risk–the search was to resume in the spring.

Mountain Madness is now exclaiming that the weather conditions in the search area is relatively the same.  Same high snow and the same threat for avalanches in the region.

From ABC of Mountaineering:

“They reported that they have a difficulty in getting the Chinese authorities to cooperate and still have to convince local police to allow the posting of reward signs, which delayed efforts by three days.”

If you would like to get updated on the Christine Boskoff Search you may read my past posts on this ongoing effort by clicking HERE.

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