Major Himalayan Update: Rescue and Summits on Lhotse–Plus Makalu and Everest

The reports are flying in faster than I can keep up today–

Lhotse

A rock slide swept in to Camp IV yesterday destroying a few of the tents and injuring one climber. Francisco Borja, who was climbing with a Military team from Spain, suffered some pretty major leg injuries and had to be rescued and brought down to a lower camp. Many of the climbers currently in Camp IV aided in getting Borja down Everest’s close neighbor, and at least has him positioned for a possible helicopter run to the hospital.

A team from Asian Trekking is reporting that all members have safely made Lhotse’s summit this morning. They follow Rosa Fernandez and two members of Arnold Coster’s team, who topped out yesterday.

From ExWeb:

As for today’s summits, there are good news from Asian Trekking international team: at 8.45 am, local time, Dawa Steven bagged his third 8000er after Cho Oyu and Everest. Team mates Stuart G. Smith, from Texas, Mexican David L. González, Nima Kanchha Sherpa, Peba Tshering Sherpa, and Palden Nyange Sherpa followed shortly after.

Congrats, Guys (and girls)!

Makalu

Summits on Makalu are being reported today.

Andrew Lock, Blanca Ardanaz, Joao Garcia, Jordi Servosa, as well as a couple of others have succesfully summited Makalu. Another team, that of the Andelusions, was turned back near the summit due to weather.

Everest

I began posting the latest summit attempts on Mt. Everest, late last night. Looks like not much has changed. Explorersweb is currently reporting that Jamie McGuiness and his Project-Himalaya Team topped out yesterday with an audio dispatch from Jamie, while on the summit. It is HERE if you would like to listen.

Spaniards Pepe Baena and Ricardo Guerrero sumitted at 11 am. They were climbing with the Cordoba Everest team. Other Spaniards, including Xavi Arias, Xavi Aimar, and Lina Quesada have summited, as well.

Andrew Brash, Adventure Consultants, SummitClimb, Mountain Trip and a few other expeditions, including Sir Ranulph Fiennes, will be heading up in the next few days, as weather permits.

Weather

My good friends over at Everest Weather and Forensic Meteorology have sent the latest weather report. These are the same weather reports that the Expeditions are receiving, although theirs are a bit more detailed. Thanks guys, appreciate all the great weather reports!

Wednesday 5- 21-08

Estimated summit conditions on Everest at 6 pm Nepal time.

-24 C winds 30 knots from the southwest Cloudy

We will have to keep an eye on all of this, as many more teams are heading to the top of many of the highest peaks in the world. Should be a fun few days here at The Adventurist, albeit, a bit chaotic. Ok, ALOT!

Cheers-

Jason A. Hendricks, Editor

Lincoln Hall “Dead Lucky” on Everest

 

Lincoln Hall Was Dead

May 25, 2006 will go down as one of those days in mountaineering history where nothing seemed to be going right–but then the miracle happened..

Stranded in the death zone, 250 meters from Mt. Everest’s famed summit…Lincoln Hall was lost.  A group of Sherpas climbing with Hall made the decision to descend without him.  If they stayed, they would die as well..but if they left they would have a chance, but Lincoln Hall would perish.  They left.

Lincoln Hall was a famed climber from Australia. He already had one Everest summit attempt to his credit in 1984–that attempt ended with him turning back near the summit due to illness. In 2006 he was heading back–not for himself, but as a favor–he was going to be a cameraman on a new documentary about Everest.

After reaching the famed Everest summit, Lincoln Hall began his descent.

High on Everest’s slope, Lincoln Hall came down with Pulminary Edema–a climber’s worst nightmare.  The lungs slowly fill with fluid, cutting off your ability to breathe, leaving you with a slow gurgling death in freezing temperatures.  Not a fun way to die–

The decision to leave Lincoln Hall high on Everest is nothing new.  When a Climber goes down in the death zone, it is pretty well known that your chances of getting back down are slim to virtually none.  Are you to die as well, or walk away?  It is just a part of mountaineering. 

Lincoln Hall’s death was broadcast the world over.  This report comes from ExplorersWeb and goes through a momment by momment synopsis of what occured on this tragic day as it was happening.

A day later, ExplorersWeb released another report.

Lincoln Hall was Miraculously Still Alive

Lincoln Hall had survived a night with Pulmonary Edema.  A climber heading towards the summit had noticed Lincoln Hall and made a dispatch to camp.  A massive rescue attempt was enacted and underway.

Lincoln Hall was eventually rescued and brought back to safety.  He was partially blinded, suffering from pulmonary Edema, and had frostbite on both of his hands and feet and part of his face.

But he had survived.

Lincoln Hall ended up losing his fingers to frostbite and eventually had to have them amputated.

His story is the miracle.  He was one of very few people to ever come out of the death zone after 24 hours alive.  He was reported as dead.  Friends, family and associates all thought he was dead. Lincoln Hall was the only one that knew he was still alive.

Dead Lucky

Lincoln Hall has just published a book about this whole ordeal called “Dead Lucky”–which promminently features a photo of him on the cover lifting his hand, with amputated fingers, and a smile on his face.  He, as well as the world, knows why this momment could bring a smile–He was Alive and lived the tale that he has now had published.

This is not Lincoln Hall’s first book, as a matter of fact it is his eighth book. He was already an acclaimed Mountaineering journalist–but on the evening of May 15, 2006–it all became so very real.  This is his first attempt to put this whole story together and try to come to grips with what could have very well been a tragedy.

I encourage all of you to pick up this book and find out what true survival and the will of man can accomplish.

 

This book was released in May 2007 through Random House Australia.  It has a cover price of $34.95

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

The Adventurist Sparks a Nerve….Twice…And You Speak Out!

This past week has seen two pretty controversial pieces here at The Adventurist take center stage.  The first one titled “David Sharp HAD to Die” was recently mentioned on ExplorersWeb and has seen well over 2,000 people stopping by to check it out in the past few days alone.

The David Sharp issue continues to be a very hot topic, even a year after this incident took place.  The media and the Climbing Community have been very vocal on their thoughts and concerns over this incident and it seems like everyone has their own opinions.  I figured I would highlight a couple of these opinions that have been shared here on The Adventurist, just to show you a bit of the differing viewpoints taking place:

First, From reader Yolan:

I am still amazed that people have a problem with climbers dying on Everest…..if you plan to take a risk like that, it is a known factor in the whole “picture”. Expecting a Sherpa (or anyone else for that matter) to risk his/her life to save yours, is way out of line….. ethics be damned…cerebral edema may not be a complication that a climber can prepare for, but as a climber, you have to know it is a potential hazzard in the “death zone” (called that for a reason!!) in a situation like and Everest summit attempt, it should be made very clear…. every person for himself!!!

From reader Leon:

It is unfair for members of the public to have such a negative opinion about how climbers are left in the death zone to die because they have never experienced being at that altitude and in such extreme conditions.

When a climber sets foot on a mountain, he or she SHOULD be awear of the dangers and be prepared for the unexpected.

And Lastly, from reader Helen:

Yolan and Leon have missed the central point here - from all reports 40 climbers passed David Sharp on the way UP. 40 still relatively fresh climbers with Os and Dex, 40 climbers with thoughts ONLY of the summit. You’re damn right the “public” have a negative opinion. Most people I talked to at the time (public all) could not imagine why anyone would think being the 431st or so person on top could possibly outweigh saving another “climber”. What story would YOU rather tell back home ? I made it to a summit thats been climbed a thousand times ? Or I saved a life ?

These comments just tip the surface of this great debate, but none the less, it is very interesting to see the different views expressed.

The second piece that seems to be drawing alot of attention is a piece I wrote just a couple of days ago titled “Dave Hahn, Usha Bista, and How The Mainstream Media Bites a Big One“. Read more

Dave Hahn, Usha Bista and How The Mainstream Media Bites a Big One…

First off, let me be the first to say that, quite frankly, I am pissed.  Luckily, I am not mainstream media and can rightfully say whatever I want to on this platform–so, I am pissed.

The media has picked up the recent story of Dave Hahn’s incredible high altitude rescue and once again turned it in to the David Sharp incident–

For the last two months I have been covering the news from Mt. Everest, I have not seen one…NOT ONE story about anything to do with Everest or the great accomplishments, or the 5 or more other rescues, or the 5 deaths…NOT ONE STORY ON EVEREST until this one in the mainstream media!

What Dave Hahn rightfully done was incredible, he saved a life that probably would have died within hours..but the media has already stepped in and skewed the story.

They have seemingly jumped on the “words” of various climbers claiming that Usha Bista was left by her team on Everest, without knowing ANY of the background, or for that matter, even her name.  They simply call her Usha.

It amazes me that they will report this story, skew it for the public, then cry about climbers rights, climbers etiquette…and try to arouse a reaction out of the public.  This is what is wrong, not only in the climbing world, but in news reporting in general! 

The facts have been stated at least two days ago by myself and a couple of other places about the circumstances surrounding this rescue mission. 

Usha Bista was rescued.  She was rescued by Dave Hahn.  She was found alone and in dire shape.  That is what is known.  NOTHING ELSE at this point.

At the same time, there are two paragraphs in the piece I just got done mentioning, talking about Usha Bista.  Another three about DAVID SHARP.

In a way, I have worked in mainstream media in the past as a journalist.  I know how these things go.  They have pieced this whole scenario on what the IMG team first reported on their Expedition Site.  But they state everything as fact even though it was stated that it was not known if she was left behind and further details would not be known until the IMG team had a chance to talk to her.

One other thing I found interesting in this bit of media circus journalism was the fact that they had a comment about this situation from Dave Hahn himself, as follows:

I was very concerned because her oxygen had run out. She was virtually unresponsive, and in a precarious spot on the mountain, on a steep snowy slope,” Hahn told The Times via satellite phone from Base Camp.

This is ALL Dave had to tell the Times, I guess, about this rescue mission, as nothing else was printed in reference to this conversation.  Now, I am not going “whistle-blowing” here, but do you not think that Dave would have at least talked about the rescue mission and what occured while he was on the phone?  It just seems like the rest should have been included.  Or was it excluded for a reason?  Here is more:

She was at a similar altitude to the cave where Sharp died on May 15, 2006, after an estimated 40 climbers passed him by, most of them without making any attempt to save him. His death sparked an international controversy, with some arguing that a rescue would have cost more lives. Others, including Sir Edmund Hillary, condemned the cynicism of commercial mountaineers.

Usha, like Sharp, was apparently on the sort of barebones expedition that charges clients typically as little as $8,933 and provides them with only basic equipment.

Also like Sharp, she was too weak to move when she was found by David Hahn, a veteran American guide, and his sherpa, Phinjo Dorje, on their way down from the summit. Hahn and Phinjo Dorje decided to risk their own lives by taking her with them, even though she was only semiconscious and suffering from severe cerebral oedema, or water on the brain.

Right there is 90% of this News report!

Do Not believe what you read in the media!  They Over-hype, Over-sensitize…and quite often never give you all the facts.

Alpine Climbing and climber’s ethics have taken a huge hit because of the David Sharp incident last season, perhaps in a way it was good, as this season did see quite a few rescues take place in high altitude..but at the same time not EVERY RESCUE is David Sharp!  Each and every instance is different and unless you are actually on that freakin mountain you have no idea how you would react, so quit your whining and crying and tearing down of a world you know nothing about!

Mountaineering is about risk.  It is about accomplishing the unachievable.  A test of self.

David Sharp did die.  He died in a horrible way that even to this day is still controversial in terms of what is and isn’t known…I just think that it is time we all move beyond David Sharp and quit trying to draw attention and raise opinions, cause a ruckus and deface a lifestyle all for the sake of alittle airtime. 

By the way, this story was featured on FoxNEWS today and is still found on their website, but I don’t suggest you go over their to check it out or you’ll be biting a big one just like they hopefully are.

The Adventurist Welcomes ExplorersWeb With a Call to Action

I would just like to take a minute to welcome everyone stopping by from ExplorersWeb.  As always, it is nice to be mentioned on such a great site and in turn, I am hoping all of you find something of interest here as well.

ExplorersWeb has seemingly taken an interest in an article I wrote awhile back titled “David Sharp Had to Die“.  It was an interesting piece although to be quite honest, I was afraid to post it.

Controversy can either be an advantage or a disadvantage–depending upon how you look at it.  For the guides heading these teams up Mt. Everest–it was a disadvantage.  They were overwhelmed with an outpouring of bad publicity resulting from people continually wanting to question this incident…by the media.

To myself, there has got to be a point where the circus needs to stop.  Everyone is always searching for the bad, without trying to take a personal stand to help change the problems that started the whole fiasco to begin with.

Russell Brice took a hit last year for the way the David Sharp incident was supposedly handled-this season it has been publicly known that Russell along with Alex Abramov from 7summits have been the first to line up for these rescues..

They have exemplified what mountaineering should be about.  People helping people.  They are all there for their ultimate goal, and all of them want to preach the team ethic..but unless they are seemingly all working together as a team, it can only be as strong as each individual effort put in.

That is why these tragedies, such as David Sharp have happened.  When 20 or 50 teams are all trying to do what benefits their team and no one else, it breeds chaos when these situations occur.

With my article, I want people to look past this one incident.  Granted David Sharp died on Everest in very bad circumstances, but so have alot of other individuals.  It is time to move on and try to make the team stronger…

There are a few things that can happen to make this disadvantage an advantage for the future…

The biggest one would be communication!  These teams need to come together and set up a radio relay so to speak–sort of like what we have here in the states with the “Amber Alert System”.  If a climber gets in trouble, one message will be relayed to every team.

Also, perhaps there needs to be a “Rescue Unit” in place on each side of Mt. Everest.  The Sherpa’s are great climbers.  Why not pay them to do what they do best…help people and pay them proper wages to do so.  That way if a climber gets in trouble or stranded they are not spread all over the mountain.  They should be trained and know what to do and be at one spot where everyone knows where to turn.  They would be outfitted with extra oxygen, and all the supplies needed to make a high-altitude rescue.

Yes, it costs money.  To me though, it would seem like these Expedition companies would want to pay $20,000 for the good publicity of saving lives than nothing for an ungodly amount of bad publicity…when someone perishes.

Every person on Everest can not be saved when they get into trouble…but, for most, a rescue IS an option.  It will only be made possible though if people are willing to work at this as a team and do something about it.

I wrote the David Sharp article in hopes of stirring up what could be done today..It has gained quite a bit of interest, and until something is done that could quite possibly save someones life, I will continue to be outspoken…

I have a great medium here on which to work.  I have no advertisers to upset or people that are behind the scenes.  It is only me.  One person. One person with a voice for change and, if at times, that wants to be looked upon as controversial, then so be it.  That’s my stand.

My hope would be that others will follow suit in expressing what can be done on this situation.  ExplorersWeb has surprising stood along side me on this issue and I thank them for bringing this to an even bigger audience as well as expressing themselves so well on this issue.

We have a chance to save lives.  I am tired of reporting deaths that could have very well been rescues, if only all the pieces would be put into place..

J. Alan Hendricks

Everest 2007 Update: Two High Altitude Rescues, More Summits, and a Possible Weather Change?

Over the past day, two amazing rescues have occured at high-altitude, one each on the North and the South.  One rescue is cause for concern though, as we will see:

Female Nepali Climber Abandoned at 27,500 Feet

An Unknown female climber with the Democratic Nepal Everest Expedition was seemingly left for dead by her own team near the Balcony at 27,500 feet on Everest’s South Side yesterday.  At this time, this is all that is known of the actual incident other than details from the IMG Expedition Team who went up to try to make a high-altitude rescue.

Dave Hahn–who incidentally has some of the most famous High-Altitude rescues ever to his credit–went back up with both Mike and Casey from the Coleman Everest 2007 Expedition on an attempt to save this female climber.  Here are the details coming from the IMG Expedition website:

Dave, Mike N., Mike H., and Casey have descended to Camp 2. On the way they helped a climber from another team, who had been abandoned at the Balcony (27,500′,) and who was in very bad shape. They managed to get her to Camp 3, where she was turned over to climbers from the Everest Expreme (medical research) team. We are proud of these guys for doing a great job on the way up, and the way down!! We’ll keep you posted!

This comes on the heels of a tragedy that occured last season when a similar incident occured with climber David Sharp…the difference this year?  People went back up to help and the climber was saved.  The David Sharp incident last season brought International attention to climber ethics and how these rescues were handled on Mt. Everest.  Over the past few weeks, we have all witnessed some great high altitude rescues taking place…and all I can attribute that to is the memory of David Sharp…

While I am talking about IMG, today they are reporting that their final team has successfully made the summit today and will shortly be heading back to basecamp. This is great news that has seen well over 33 IMG team members make the summit this year.  Congratulations!

Italian Climber Found Near Death at High Camp

An Italian Climber on North Everest was found today near the Camp at 8300 Meters.  Marco, as he has simply been known thus far, was found unconscience and had apparently spent close to 48 hours lying in the snow before he was discovered by members of Alex Abramov’s 7Summits Expedition.  Here is what 7Summits reported: Read more

Sherpa Climbing Legend, Pemba Doma, Dead at 37

Some tragic news coming from Lhotse today.  The Sherpa community has lost one their dear climbing legends, Pemba Doma Sherpa.

Pemba Doma Sherpa was a two time Mt. Everest Summiter.  She completed her first ascent of the world’s tallest mountain on May 19, 2000, climbing up the North Ridge Route.  Two years later, on May 16, 2002, she done the same once again, except from the South Col.

Upon each seperate summit, Pemba Doma Sherpa would be setting records for the Nepalese women.  Her first summit from the north was the first time a Nepalese woman had made a successful attempt from this route.  Consequentially, when she done it from the South Col two years later, she also became the first Nepalese woman to do it from both sides.

Pemba Doma Sherpa would also go on to claim summits at Cho Oyu in 2005, and Lhotse, just hours before her untimely death.

According to reports coming in from Lhotse as well as EverestNews and Alan Arnette, Pemba Doma Sherpa died after falling on Lhotse.  She had made a successful summit on Lhotse at 11:30 and was on her descent when the fall occured.  Another Sherpa climbing partner with her at the time was also injured, but sources at this time are saying that the other Sherpa is expected to survive.  No name or condition was given.

Pemba Doma Sherpa’s body has been brought back down to the Lhotse Basecamp at this time and is awaiting proper burial.

The Adventurist would like to wish all of our thoughts and prayers to her family, friends, and associates as well as the community from which she is from, Solukhumbu, Nepal.  She will be greatly missed.

.

The Adventurist: The David Tait Interview Pt. 2, Post Everest 2007

In March of this year, The Adventurist had the priviledge of interviewing David Tait before he set off to climb Mt. Everest.  David’s ambitions were made very clear.  He wanted to become the first person to ever “Double-Traverse” Mt. Everest in the same season. 

He was well prepared.  David had summited Mt. Everest previously in 2006 and was feeling in such great shape afterwards that he made a commitment to dedicate himself to the world’s first ever double-traverse of Everest in 2007, all the while donating every penny earned to the NSPCC and trying to draw some much needed attention for his latest life mission– helping children who have been the victims of abuse in his native land.

David’s attempt garnered alot of attention this season.  He was a member of the much touted and often ridiculed Himex Team that is being led by Russell Brice–and who, by chance, was also being followed along by The Discovery Channel Team in hopes of filming their second season of Everest: Beyond the Limit.

Through David’s Expedition Blog this season we were given the rare opportunity to take a look at what goes on behind the scenes.  David’s thoughts, concerns, and daily routine were not only followed by myself, but by thousands of people around the world.  In effect, this attention has garnered David something that he has been trying to get accomplished for well over a year now–and that is helping the NSPCC.

Through David Tait’s great assault on Everest this season, we were all able to learn a little bit about ourselves.  David’s journey began strong.  He put himself in place to make a successful first summit and in essence, he did just that.  Half of his goal was accomplished.  Now all he had to do was go back down the opposite side of Mt. Everest, take a 7-10 day rest, and do it all over again from the South Col.

What surprised alot of people in the world was what happened next.  Upon reaching Camp on the South, David made an announcement that his double-traverse was essentially off–

Over the next couple of days, David would go on to explain his reasonings behind this decision.  He felt that Phurba Sherpa, his climbing partner this season, should be given the credit he was due.  If anyone should be the “first” to do something, David noted, It should be the Sherpa who have been an integeral part of every climbing expedition on Mt. Everest.

Over the past season, David has been looked upon as perhaps a little cocky.  David has been seen, as one climber put it, as the “007″ on Everest this season.  Discovery Channel found in David someone who they originally thought would make for great TV..he was good-looking, well prepared, well spoken, and at times could be a bit controversial..someone the american audiences would surely fall in love with.  But David had other plans…

David Tait is his own man.  From the beginning David stayed focused and knew where he was going.  He had goals and he stuck to them..and in a suprise move David Tait showed the World something that alot of us foresake….humility.

In David’s humility, as much as the decision was so hard for  alot of us to comprehend at the time–David still became the first person to EVER traverse Everest, North to South, from his native UK as well as the first Person to ever do so from Europe.

Two new records, a successful traverse of the world’s tallest peak–and tons and tons of humility…that is David Tait.

It is with great pleasure that I can bring to you the first In-Depth Interview with David since his decision to call off his Double-Traverse.  You will see, undoubtedly, how this all unfolded just days ago.

I will let you make up your own minds on who David Tait is and what he represents, as well as perhaps, show you what part of being great entails.

The Adventurist Interviews David Tait

 

The Adventurist:  When I first interviewed you for The Adventurist back in March, you were
just preparing to head off to Mt. Everest.  It has now been two and a half months and you have successfully summited Mt. Everest for a second time. How are you feeling right now and what is your general condition?

David Tait:  I’m feeling more than a little tired -I keep dozing off, but considering i’m still sitting in solitary confinement at the hotel Tibet in Katmandu, i’ve little else to do but read and sleep. I have started to reflect on the successes of the expedition and i’m quite content.

The Adventurist:  This marks the second Expedition to Mt. Everest that you have been on with Himex.  This season was a little bit different though as The Discovery Channel Film Crew was on hand to record what was going on.  Can you elaborate a bit on this experience, and did it in any way influence your day to day activities and preparation?

David Tait:  Yes, I found the film crew to be a nice sociable bunch, but in an ideal world I would have prefered to climb without them. This is for two reasons - firstly, I believe [my opinion only] that they became a little disappointed with the ordinaryiness of the participants, and desperately wanted something to “spice things up”…. i bored them senseless with interviews in which i only referred to the climb and my charity work. i think they hoped for a lot more than this. Secondly, in my opinion again, there was disproportionate attention given to two memebers of the expedition, one complete [literally] novice lady, and one larger than life, but ultimately offensive semi-experienced man. It was clear to me, owing to the coverage that these two got, that the essence of the program [reality tv] would fail without their presence. I found this a little depressing at times.

The Adventurist:  As your summit attempt was taking shape, Russell Brice met with you and
Phurba Sherpa giving you  the go-ahead to start your ascent.  First, can you tell us about this meeting and second, why were you given the go-ahead so far in advance of the rest of the Himex crew?

David Tait:  ———-The meeting was help on the “tigerdome” in the presence once again
of the cameras. Russ, Phurba and i discussed firstly the current state of the fixed ropes, the imminent plans to fix higher, ultimately to the summit, the plans for moving or removing bodies [with permission] from the route, and finally the plans for our traverse/s - this included oxygen, and other minor logisitcs. We had the go ahead to leave earlier owing to the intention of double-traversing inside the proscribed time limit of the end of the season.

The Adventurist:  Upon beginning your ascent there were varied accounts of the projected
“Weather Window” for the summit.  You essentially took a chance by taking off a bit
earlier than everyone else.  Was this planned to beat the crowds or were there other factors involved?

David Tait:  The principal factor was to allow for a second return attempt - hence the early departure. The weather looked a little didgy when we left abc, but in the end it was ideal. We realized there would likely be crowds, but as we both move very fast, we were confident we could outpace most - as we manged.

The Adventurist:  Once you had finally made your successful summit from the North and began to head down the South, did you have any idea that you would be fixing ropes and breaking trail on your descent?  Also, for the uninitiated, can you explain what you had to do and the toll that it eventually took?

David Tait:  Yes, we were aware that the south-side sherpas had only fixed rope to the “balcony”. However, as both of us hadn’t  seen the south-side before, we had no real idea where the balcony was, or how hard it would be to reach. We set off from the summit somewhat blind, moving very slowly and carefully, digging footholds, one at a time, so that the snow wouldn’t mini-avalanche,taking one of us with it. We were joined together by 25 m of rope for safety, and belay-relayed ourselves along the ridge to the Hilary
step. Somehow my oxygen got turned off by hitting the wall, and I thought I was suffocating - I dont know how. Phurba checked for me and turned it back on. That was a weird 10 mins. We were also carrying 150m of rope for possible permanent fixing. We fixed line from the Hillary step, across and up to the south summit - this took an age owing to the need to creep slowly across the ridge-line, cutting footholds. From the south summit to the balcony was
fairly routine, but with quite deep shifting snow. Once at the balcony we discovered the fixed rope….it took us from 6.30 until 11 am approx. to
negotiate the distance from the summit to the balcony….many times longer than it would have done under normal circumstances.

The Adventurist:  In the beginning of this journey, your goal was to “Double-Traverse” the
world’s highest mountain, but after your first successful summit and crossing over to the South you changed your mind.  Can you take us through this process and the reasonings behind your change of mind?

David Tait:  The reasons I changed my mind are twofold. Firstly, and most importantly,  as I mentioned on my site, the only way I was personally going to claim “first to double traverse” was if i asked a superior climber and human being [Phurba] to effectively “step-aside” and let me ” win”. This has been gnawing away at me for months. Having watched Phurba fix ropes to the
summit on April 30th, and then descend to bc in 6 hours, i knew in my heart that he deserved all plaudits. He is an extrordinary chap, honest,
generous, patient and modest to a point that the Dalai Lama could learn things from him. There was no way, especially in the context of my charity work, that I could pretend to supercede him.
The second thing, closely connected was that I was also very tired from the descent - much more than I had anticipated. In the context of not wanting to usurp Phurba, I knew that there was little if any point in forcing my way over this mountain yet again, to come in second. I also feel strongly that such “titles” are there for the sherpas to take and legitimately own….. they
are streets ahead of ALL westerners, so I contented myself with “the first Brit” or if i’m lucky ” the first westerner” to traverse north-south.[ maybe you could help me with a clearer verification? I'd be grateful]. I’ve been told by many many informed people that im the first brit, but id like to know for dead-sure?

The Adventurist:  How different was this experience compared to your first successful summit? Was it easier or harder?

David Tait:   Harder - only in as much as I underestimated the south side descent…. 17 hours of arm-wrapping in both snow-storms and blazing sun - in a down suit….

The Adventurist:  Looking back, is there anything you would have done differently on this
Expedition, or did everything pretty much go as planned?

David Tait:  Everything went better than planned - I managed to summit/traverse after
only 35 days of acclimatization, and the summit day climb was relatively easy…I was suprised.

The Adventurist:  The NSPCC, your charity that you were doing this for, has been able to gain
alot of publicity through yourself and The Discovery Film Team.  If you had a few words for these kids you are trying to help, what would you say?

David Tait:   For the abused kids out there : you have a choice, as I once did. Your life can go south or it can go north - the choice is up to you. Stop blaming others and focus on yourself. I carried my secrets for 30 years - a wasted thirty years. let things go, and start climbing life.

The Adventurist:  Well, Once again David, I will congratulate you on a great climb and a successful second Mt. Everest summit!  It has been a pleasure to follow along with you on this fantastic journey and we are all looking forward to hearing more from you soon.  Hope your recovery goes well.. I am sure Vanessa can’t wait to see you!!  Now hurry Home…Safely!

 Bonus Questions

The Adventurist:  Since this is now over, do you think you will ever try Everest again?

David Tait:  Maybe, if my son or daughter wanted company etc…. but not for
any other reason.

The Adventurist:  In your opinion, what website brings the best “Adventure” coverage in
the world?    This may or may not be published depending on answer.  Ha,ha.

 David Tait:  You definately have a great site - i’m honestly only familiar with you and Ex-web. Yours is far more interesting owing to the manner in which you apparently obtain your info.  You are accurate, Ex-web isnt….dt

Editor’s Note:  At this time, David Tait has been confirmed as being the first person from the UK to make a successful Traverse of  Mt. Everest. 

I would also like to make a point to say that the opinions and viewpoints represented on The Adventurist are not neccessarily those of this site. In the context of  representing all viewpoints in the most accurate fashion, nothing has been left out, and except for a couple of minor spelling changes..everything is being presented as it was.

If you are interested in reading David’s first interview, just days before he began this incredible journey in March, you may do so by clicking HERE.

And Lastly, David Tait is currently in Kathmandu awaiting the arrival of his equipment so that he may leave for home.  David has mentioned that there just may be a book in the works about his two successful summits of Mt. Everest as well his work with the NSPCC…We will keep our eyes out for this project and I will bring more to you when I find out further.

ExplorersWeb Taking a Stand…The Adventurist: A Call for Change

ExplorersWeb has published a very strong editorial today about people dying on Everest…Here is a question they pose:

“The questions is though, how many times will we have to witness a Kazakh, a Pole, a Spaniard or any other of the world’s foremost climbers rescue people in the death zone while we keep hearing amateur climbers (preferably Anglo-Saxon) and Everest business folks repeating into Discovery’s cameras that it’s impossible? “

This question of Ethics from such a highly public site as ExplorersWeb will definately be reverberated throughout the climbing community in the days ahead.

This Editorial comes on the heels of one I put up yesterday examining the same issue, yet in a slightly different way.

“David Sharp HAD to Die” goes in to detail about how the death of David Sharp is currently influencing the thoughts and a slight change of attitude that I think is taking place, regarding these high-altitude rescues and leaving people to die.

It is a controversial issue, I agree.

ExplorersWeb has called out a couple of people and expedition companies for the way that they handle their “business”, not only on Everest, but in the climbing community in general–when it comes to someone in trouble on the mountain.

I feel like change is starting to take place in the way people are now seeing these incidents–for years people have been told that in the Death Zone, that there is no chance for rescue…

Let me say that they may be right…but, how do you know that a life can not be saved unless you actually stop and give an effort?

Forty People walked by David Sharp.  Forty.  All on their personal mission to the summit.

I like to think that perhaps my editorial influenced ExplorersWeb to also express themselves publicly on this issue, but perhaps it isn’t an “influence”.  Perhaps there are more of us out there that are tired of seeing these people die needlessly–than was previously thought. 

IT IS TIME FOR CHANGE

In 2007, you can not tell me that we can not develope a system to get these people off of Everest or any other mountain where someone has been injured.

The technology is out there if people are willing to put it together in order to save a life.  The way rescues are carried out today is almost the exact same as it was twenty years ago.

A lot of people are influenced by what they hear–when they hear someone can’t be brought down from the Death Zone–they take that as fact, without questioning it, or for that matter, without trying.

The summit is the most important thing to those that are trying their luck at Everest.  Some that have been there say it isn’t, some that fail say it isn’t, but you would not spend that kind of cash to not have a shot at the summit–plain and simple.

Everest brings immediate fame and noteriety to those that succeed.  Everest is still portrayed as inaccessable, yet well over 200 people made it to the top last year alone.

If those 200 people had made a sacrifice of something that will still be there tomorrow–Everest’s Summit–then perhaps they could have saved even one life from perishing.

What is more important, The summit or a life?

Right now there are at least 4 different people having a lot of issues on Everest, according to their daily reports.  Some of them are so sick that they can do nothing but throw up, yet the summit lingers in their minds.  The summit. 

I can’t put all of the blame on the the one’s not in trouble.  The one’s in trouble sometimes put themselves in the position that they eventually find themselves in.

If you are unhealthy.  If your sickness has lasted longer than 2 days…then get off the mountian.  Your body obviously is already at the breaking point.  Suck it up and make a decision, get down to a lower level, and live to climb another day.

Everest eats people.  If you aren’t prepared in every way possible, you stand a good chance of dying come summit day.

Everyone needs to come together on this issue and take a stand.  People have died needlessly–people have been left behind.  Without making a second guess about these situations, people will continue to die needlessly.

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