BREAKING NEWS: FAMED AMERICAN SOLO CLIMBER< MICHAEL REARDON DEAD AT 36

BREAKING NEWS–BREAKING NEWS–BREAKING NEWS

Famed American Climber Michael Reardon, 36, has died in Ireland.  He was taking part in a special shoot for an American Climbing magazine, had just finished his climb and was standing on a rock shelf–when a wave knocked him off and into the sea.  Michael was unable to get out of the water.  The Coast Guard immediately put out an alarm, but as of this time, Michael Reardon has not been found and is feared dead.

Michael’s wife Marci and 13 year old daughter are scheduled to arrive in Ireland some time tomorrow.  Michael was scheduled to leave back for the states today.

This story is still developing.  As far as I know this news has not hit the US newswire at this point.

If you don’t know Michael Reardon, Please follow the following links to learn more about this incredible climber–

Climber Reaching for New Heights

Interview with Michael Reardon

From Wikipedia

I will be updating you when more is known.  At this time, it is rumored that Michael Reardon was doing a shoot for Climbing Magazine.  No word has been mentioned from their site at this time.  Efforts continue to try to locate his body, but it is being called a recovery mission at this time.  He was staying with a close friend in Ireland when this tragedy struck.  His friend has been on the Irish News Services discussing these tragic events

Our thoughts and prayers go out to Marci and his daughter, as well as their family, friends, and associates.  Micheal Reardon will be greatly missed in the climbing world, but his legacy and never-give-up attitude will be with us forever.

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

First Pluto is Demoted, and now The Nile?

That is right.  The world we live in and beyond is vastly changing at a rate that not many of us are to fond of.

Pluto has been written off the planet charts (even though I agree with my daughter, most of us will still consider it a planet in our world of “underground” knowledge) by scientists, now it is just a large rock floating in the abyss..

Add to that, the recent unravelings of the World’s Longest River…The Nile, you think?

Think again.  The Amazon.  That is right.  Scientists have recently discovered that the Amazon River is approximately 176 miles longer than originally thought and now extends into the Southern reaches of Peru, making it the NEW world’s longest river.

The 176 miles of new Amazon, will place it at roughly 4, 225 miles long–making it 65 miles longer than the Nile.

Scientists sponsored by The Brazilian Institute of Science and Statistics, have placed the new Amazon beginning in the Southern Mountains of Peru.

This has to be disheartening to at least one individual–Martin Strehl–who laid claim earlier this year to completing the first swim that went the full distance of the Amazon…

This just goes to show that no one is ever happy being in second place..

It will be interesting to see how Egypt takes this news as well..Perhaps the Nile will grow soon, too…

I can slowly see Mr. Martin Strehl’s great accomplishments in the World of River Swimming being wiped off the charts..Perhaps he had swam one river to many..and p’d off the wrong folks…

$5000 Charge for Wilderness Rescue Ignites Debate–Again.

A Kansas man has been billed $5000 for a wilderness rescue after he injured his ankle while hiking along a steep hillside.

This debate has been raging for well over a year now–whether or not people in the wilderness, when accidents happen, should be liable to pay for their rescue.

Kansas is only one of a number of states who have been looking in to billing people that have come to need a rescue involving local authorities.  Colorado also has a similar law in place and one is also currently making the rounds in Utah.

The great Blog, Two-Heel Drive ran by Tom Mangan, tipped me off to the forementioned article featured in the June 18th issue of Rocky Mountain News discussing this incident, as well as the debate raging in Kansas.  You may read the whole article HERE.

As far as Colorado is concerned, there has recently been news that another individual will be billed $7500 for his subsequent rescue as well.

This is reigniting a big debate amongst outdoor enthusiasts.  Should they be charged or shouldn’t they?  I have already expressed my own opinion on this matter as it pertains to climbers needing rescued–(please see story posted HERE, for my opinion.)  How much is to much?

Alot of us go out and try to enjoy the peace and solitude of the outdoors for 1) it is great exercise, 2) it gets you away from the hustle and bustle of cities…and PEOPLE, and 3) It is alot cheaper to walk a trail then drive a car.

If all of us ran the risk of having to pay $7500 for rescue after a badly twisted ankle PLUS our own medical bills, would we still be outdoors?

Alot of the previous debate over this issue has occured mainly over climbers getting stranded high on mountains, as in the two incidents that have occured in the past year on Mt. Hood. More and more though, we as individuals are seeing this pop up for some things that seem–dare I say mundane?

I think the political motivation behind this issue has jumped from saving lives to making money, and in a sense, infringing upon our own freedoms to explore nature and the outdoors.

Perhaps a few people have taken advantage of the system.  Perhaps a few have ended up where they never should have been in the first place without the experience or guidance they needed to be there.  Is this a reason to Pigeonhole a whole section of the American population? Instead of going out to “Get Away From It All”, that “All” is slowly trying to step in and even take away the essence of being out there.

Read more

Free-Climbing the Second Step: A New Controversy Brewing..

In the past two weeks, numerous reports of Conrad Anker and Leo Haulding’s, successful summit of Everest have been reported.

Many of you will know that Conrad Anker and Leo Haulding set out a couple weeks ago to try to prove that George Mallory could have successfully summited Mt. Everest, by doing it themselves in equipment that would have been used in Mallory’s day–although made more recent.

Their findings are being reported two different ways.  The first, is that they were successful…the second is that they had to put aside the look-alike 1920’s equipment and make their final push in high tech gear of today.  To be honest, this would lead you to believe that Mallory and Irvine couldn’t have summited in the gear that they had.

Another controversy has seemed to have erupted recently over Conrad Anker and Leo Haulding’s subsequent free-climb up the Second Step.  The two, in order to do it as Mallory and Irvine, removed the ladder ascending the Second Step and decided to free climb it.  Many people, including Elizabeth Hawley, the Mt. Everest Expeditions local historian and news source, seem to be confused on the merits of free climbing the second step…

The Adventure Blog has posted a nice piece on whether this was the first free climb ever, the first one since the 1960’s as Elizabeth Hawley claims, or just another one that has fallen into the cracks of misreporting.  ExplorersWeb contends that there are actually a few people who have done this on the Second Step and that Anker and Haulding are just the most recent.

We all know it isn’t done often.  More people go for the much easier and safer, by using the ladder, but the controversy arises in part, by a message left by The Altitude Everest Team claiming that this was a true first.  No matter how it plays out–it is very unlikely this is a true first as way more than one source agrees that it has been done at least once before and possibly numerous times.

I credit Kraig over at The Adventure Blog for this fine piece of investigative reporting–I will be watching to see if he can come up with some truth and what the facts are surrounding this situation–well done Kraig.  Now go read his fine piece HERE.

Mt. Everest Pioneer, Ernest Hofstetter, Dies at 95

Ernest Hofstetter, a leading member of a Swiss Expedition team that nearly summited one year before Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay made the first successful summit of Mt. Everest in 1953, has died.

Upon Sir Edmund Hillary’s successful summit the following year, Hillary sent the swiss team a note telling them that they had done half of the work for him.

The Swiss Expedition Team, that Ernest Hofstetter was a proud member of, seemingly paved the route that a year later Hillary and Norgay would use to make their summit a success.

For more on the incredible 1952 Swiss Expedition up Mt. Everest, Click Here.

Ernest Hofstetter will be missed by the climbing community world wide and our thoughts and prayers go out to his family and friends.

Celebrate National Trails Day! June 2, 2007

The Adventure Blog Casually  reminded me that June 2 is National Trails Day. 

What a better way to enjoy a quiet bit of sunshine, bask in nature’s wonders, and get a bit of the ol’ exercise that the Doc always seems to recommend–by hiking up or down your favorite trail!

My personal favorite trail happens to be no further than a mile from my house, right smack dab in the middle of town.  The funny part about this trail is that any time of day there is virtually nobody there..it rolls and meanders for a couple of miles tracing the trail of  a river that always keeps you close company.

I only mention this because when a lot of us think of “Hiking Trails”, our minds automatically wonder towards the great scenic trails of the National and State Park Systems–sometimes the most exclusive and rewarding trails can be found right in our own backyards, so to speak, if we only search them out.  They don’t have to be no 48 mile trek into no man’s land, even though we all know that these hikes can be very rewarding as well–as long as you are prepared accordingly.

If, by chance, you have a job that you just might not be able to get away from, then at least take some comfort in reading the following list of the Top 100 Trails in the Nation as voted by the members of Trails.com.

I guess one of the big surprises on this list were the three sections of the Appalachian Trail listed in the Top 10.  In a way, it isn’t a surprise as this is some of the most beautiful backpacking and trail hiking country in the world, but I would have thought for sure that some of the great trails in California and Alaska…and even Utah would make it in the Top 10.

I also understand that nearly 60% of the country is within a days drive of some of these classic Appalachian Trails…now there is absolutely no excuses for not checking these out.  Take a weekend, grab your boots and water bottle and hit the trails!  I plan to do just that the last week of June..in the Great Smoky Mountains..

Dave Hahn, Usha Bista and How The Mainstream Media Bites a Big One…

First off, let me be the first to say that, quite frankly, I am pissed.  Luckily, I am not mainstream media and can rightfully say whatever I want to on this platform–so, I am pissed.

The media has picked up the recent story of Dave Hahn’s incredible high altitude rescue and once again turned it in to the David Sharp incident–

For the last two months I have been covering the news from Mt. Everest, I have not seen one…NOT ONE story about anything to do with Everest or the great accomplishments, or the 5 or more other rescues, or the 5 deaths…NOT ONE STORY ON EVEREST until this one in the mainstream media!

What Dave Hahn rightfully done was incredible, he saved a life that probably would have died within hours..but the media has already stepped in and skewed the story.

They have seemingly jumped on the “words” of various climbers claiming that Usha Bista was left by her team on Everest, without knowing ANY of the background, or for that matter, even her name.  They simply call her Usha.

It amazes me that they will report this story, skew it for the public, then cry about climbers rights, climbers etiquette…and try to arouse a reaction out of the public.  This is what is wrong, not only in the climbing world, but in news reporting in general! 

The facts have been stated at least two days ago by myself and a couple of other places about the circumstances surrounding this rescue mission. 

Usha Bista was rescued.  She was rescued by Dave Hahn.  She was found alone and in dire shape.  That is what is known.  NOTHING ELSE at this point.

At the same time, there are two paragraphs in the piece I just got done mentioning, talking about Usha Bista.  Another three about DAVID SHARP.

In a way, I have worked in mainstream media in the past as a journalist.  I know how these things go.  They have pieced this whole scenario on what the IMG team first reported on their Expedition Site.  But they state everything as fact even though it was stated that it was not known if she was left behind and further details would not be known until the IMG team had a chance to talk to her.

One other thing I found interesting in this bit of media circus journalism was the fact that they had a comment about this situation from Dave Hahn himself, as follows:

I was very concerned because her oxygen had run out. She was virtually unresponsive, and in a precarious spot on the mountain, on a steep snowy slope,” Hahn told The Times via satellite phone from Base Camp.

This is ALL Dave had to tell the Times, I guess, about this rescue mission, as nothing else was printed in reference to this conversation.  Now, I am not going “whistle-blowing” here, but do you not think that Dave would have at least talked about the rescue mission and what occured while he was on the phone?  It just seems like the rest should have been included.  Or was it excluded for a reason?  Here is more:

She was at a similar altitude to the cave where Sharp died on May 15, 2006, after an estimated 40 climbers passed him by, most of them without making any attempt to save him. His death sparked an international controversy, with some arguing that a rescue would have cost more lives. Others, including Sir Edmund Hillary, condemned the cynicism of commercial mountaineers.

Usha, like Sharp, was apparently on the sort of barebones expedition that charges clients typically as little as $8,933 and provides them with only basic equipment.

Also like Sharp, she was too weak to move when she was found by David Hahn, a veteran American guide, and his sherpa, Phinjo Dorje, on their way down from the summit. Hahn and Phinjo Dorje decided to risk their own lives by taking her with them, even though she was only semiconscious and suffering from severe cerebral oedema, or water on the brain.

Right there is 90% of this News report!

Do Not believe what you read in the media!  They Over-hype, Over-sensitize…and quite often never give you all the facts.

Alpine Climbing and climber’s ethics have taken a huge hit because of the David Sharp incident last season, perhaps in a way it was good, as this season did see quite a few rescues take place in high altitude..but at the same time not EVERY RESCUE is David Sharp!  Each and every instance is different and unless you are actually on that freakin mountain you have no idea how you would react, so quit your whining and crying and tearing down of a world you know nothing about!

Mountaineering is about risk.  It is about accomplishing the unachievable.  A test of self.

David Sharp did die.  He died in a horrible way that even to this day is still controversial in terms of what is and isn’t known…I just think that it is time we all move beyond David Sharp and quit trying to draw attention and raise opinions, cause a ruckus and deface a lifestyle all for the sake of alittle airtime. 

By the way, this story was featured on FoxNEWS today and is still found on their website, but I don’t suggest you go over their to check it out or you’ll be biting a big one just like they hopefully are.

Everest 2007 Update: More Details on Two Rescues As Well As Another Missing Climber?

Yesterday, I reported on two High Altitude Rescues taking place.  One was of a Nepalese Woman who had been stranded on the South Balcony, supposedly left behind by her team.  I now have more details on this incident.

I recieved an anonymous tip yesterday identifying the climber as Usha Bista.  I have held on to this information awaiting confirmation from other sources..and today it has been confirmed through the IMG team Expedition Update.

Here is what is known:

Usha Bista was climbing with the Democratic Nepal Expedition.  She got into trouble around 27, 500 Ft. near the Balcony on a push for the summit.  Her team meanwhile continued for the summit.  At this time, it is still a little bit sketchy as to if she was actually left or had fallen behind the rest of her team.

Here is a news item published before Usha Bista’s team began their Expedition.  It will list her and her teamates as well as their ultimate goal:

Wednesday, April 11,2007

KATHMANDU: Kantipur Publications on Tuesday handed over a banner containing its publications logo to the Democratic Everest Expedition team set to scale the world’s highest peak.
The team headed by veteran mountaineer Aangrita Sherpa, also known as the “Snow Leopard,” is set begin its expedition on Nepali New Year’s day.Publications’ Chief Financial Officer Deepak Bansal and journalist Aang Chhering Sherpa, the first South Asian journalist toscale
Mt. Everest, handed over the banner with best wishes to the expedition.

Kantipur Publications is the official media partner of the expedition.

The team includes Usha Bista, who will be the first lady from Far Western Nepal to scale Mt Everest, Ngima Sherpa, Chhiring Phinjo Sherpa, Bhuwan Singh Rai and Dorji Sherpa, who has reached the top 14 times.

The team will take photos of the martyrs of Janandolan-II and flags of eight political parties, United Nations and Kantipur Publications.

“We are planning to support the family members of the martyrs by making a documentary on the expedition,” said leader of the team Ngima Sherpa.

Through Mike Haugen with the IMG Expedition we are gaining some new insight into the events surrounding her successful rescue:

Within the first twenty minutes of our rest time (in C4 after summitting) we started getting radio calls that there was a woman on the triangular face of Everest (27,000 ft) that was having a very difficult time,” recalled Mike yesterday from BC. “A call went out to IMG guide Dave Hahn to watch for her on his way down. By the time Dave got to her she was in very bad shape and was nearly unconscious. At this point we all began playing detective and trying to figure out what team she was with and where their camp was. We figured out she was with the Nepali Democratic team and the rest of her teammates were high on the mountain. Dave had radio communication with some doctors at base camp. The doctors advised that Dave inject the patient, Usha, with dexamethazone to help with the effects of cerebral edema.”

“After Dave gave her the “dex” he had to get her down to lower altitudes or she would surely die. With the help of Lhakpa Rita Sherpa and a few other people they got Usha down to the South Col where luckily there was a team of doctors with the Extreme Everest expedition waiting to help. Usha was diagnosed with cerebral edema, frost bitten hands, and hypothermia. The doctors said that if she did not get down to lower altitudes with more definitive care, she would die. Since Casey, Dave Hahn and I are guides and were also headed down that day we were put in charge of coordinating the rescue.”

“Luckily the Extreme Everest group had a couple of Sherpas and a doctor, Andre, that they could send down with us. Since most people at the South Col had climbed Everest that day and were tired we only managed to find one more Sherpa from the Asian Trekking Expedition group that would help us with our task. For the extremely steep and rugged descent down from the South Col, Usha was packaged up in a sleeping bag strapped to a sled. Since carrying her down this terrain would be impossible we would have to drag her and lower her with ropes. This is a pretty standard rescue procedure where the patient is actually pretty comfortable and snug with a lot of padding.”

“There was actually a pretty big crew that helped us out of the South Col to the Geneva spur where the steep stuff started. We began rigging lowering systems with a couple of people lowering and a few guiding the sled. The very hard parts were the traverses where we not only had to lower and pull, but we had to make sure that Usha and the sled did not roll over. Eventually we figured out a good system that was not quite as fatiguing as when we first started. After the first hour I looked up at how far we had gotten and then looked down at where we had to go. I only did that once! We worked our way across the steep Lhotse Face and down through a rocky area called the Yellow Band. Once we got through this area it got a little easier because we were straight above C3 so we did more lowering than guiding the sled, but we were also getting very tired. Before we got to C3 the sun had set and it was starting to get cold.”

“We kept lowering and lowering and finally just above C3 a group of doctors from the Extreme Everest Expedition came up and helped us the rest of the way into camp. Once we were in C3 we handed Usha over to a group of physicians who put her in a tent under medical care. We were confident that she was being given top notch care. We were invited to stay in C3 but the thought of our own sleeping bags waiting at C2 was too inviting. By the time we descended the Lhotse face we had been climbing or rescuing for well over 24 hours so we were exhausted. A group of IMG Sherpas came to meet us on the glacier to bring us some water and to help us with our packs. As mountain guides, we never let anyone carry our packs but we were very tired. After a little fake resistance, we gladly gave up our packs and Dave, Casey and I stumbled back to C2.”

“This morning, on our walk down, we got a call over the radio thanking us for our efforts and letting us know that Usha was improving greatly. In fact, they were going to try to walk her down to camp II with the help of six Sherpas.”

It is still unclear as to why Usha Bista was left alone at the Balcony.  I am sure more details will be following shortly.  I will keep you posted.

North Side Rescue But Another Climber Missing?

There seems to be some great confusion going on today regarding another High Altitude Rescue.  It was reported yesterday that a climber simply known as “Marco” was found unconscience outside of Camp 3 and had supposedly been there for 48 hours.  The good news is that “Marco” was successfully rescued…the bad news…His partner is still missing.

I have now been able to identify “Marco” as Marco Epis of the Spirito Libero Expedition.  His partner on this expedition, Pierangelo Maurizio is still missing and no one has seen or heard from him since May 17.

EverestNews has put out this bulletin which will exemplify the confusion on this situation:

It has been another long long hard year reporting on Everest. False death reports all over as normal. Our news being copied and mangled. Of course those with clear agendas signing their songs and those who “claim not to have an agenda” signing their songs … Same old Everest, just another year!

The question is: Is another Italian climber, Pierangelo Maurizio,  missing?

Some seem sure no other climber is missing. Others off the mountain believe Pierangelo Maurizio is missing and probably lost now….

The confusion seems to get worse as most know an Italian climber, “Marco” was found and was saved from camp 3 on the North side. readers are telling us that Marco is not Pierangelo Maurizio and that Pierangelo Maurizio is still missing. Climbers we speak to on the mountain don’t seem to know another Italian climber is missing… Some seem to think Pierangelo Maurizio is Marco, other not… At this point, we believe Pierangelo Maurizio is not Marco and that most on the mountain does not know this. We hope we are wrong….

So with the risk is spreading a false rumor that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing as our news is repeated over and over, here it goes Pierangelo Maurizio is missing on Everest… Please let us know if you know where he is, people are concerned… 

We should add we know of NO other dead or missing climbers besides what we have reported to date and currently believe reports to the otherwise are false…

At this time it is known that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing, but that, in no way, means that he has perished on Mt. Everest. To date, only 5 climbers have been confirmed as dying this season on Mt. Everest.  They are as follows:  Dawa Sherpa, Two Korean Climbers-Oh Hee-Joon and Lee Hyun Jo, A Japanese Climber who perished a few steps from the summit upon descent-and a Czech Climber.  All of these have been confirmed.

On this issue, I agree with EverestNews that a climber is missing, as I have now confirmed the identity of “Marco”. 

Another interesting tidbit to back up the fact that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing..on May 17, Russell Brice and Kari Kobler each took part in a search and rescue mission to try to locate him…this next bit of information is coming from PlanetMountain and a recent interview they conducted with Nives Meroi on May 21:

On summit day, 17 May, there were problems with some mountaineers from another Italian expedition from Bergamo. I know that many gave a hand in the search. But to date there is no news about Pierangelo Maurizio…
Unfortunately there were problems… and we, just like the rest, tried to help as much as possible, even logistically. A rescue on a mountain like this requires the right means, you need to have rested, you need supplementary oxygen. And I have to say that the commercial expeditions led by Russell Brice and Kari Kobler were fantastic, offering all the means and their people at their disposal, unconditionally and free of charge. They truly deserve a big thank you!

Now I know that really didn’t answer anything to do with the question, but it does show that a mission was initiated to try to find the missing climber. 

By the way, if you would like to read the rest of this interview with Nives, Click HERE.
 

Everest 2007 Update: Two High Altitude Rescues, More Summits, and a Possible Weather Change?

Over the past day, two amazing rescues have occured at high-altitude, one each on the North and the South.  One rescue is cause for concern though, as we will see:

Female Nepali Climber Abandoned at 27,500 Feet

An Unknown female climber with the Democratic Nepal Everest Expedition was seemingly left for dead by her own team near the Balcony at 27,500 feet on Everest’s South Side yesterday.  At this time, this is all that is known of the actual incident other than details from the IMG Expedition Team who went up to try to make a high-altitude rescue.

Dave Hahn–who incidentally has some of the most famous High-Altitude rescues ever to his credit–went back up with both Mike and Casey from the Coleman Everest 2007 Expedition on an attempt to save this female climber.  Here are the details coming from the IMG Expedition website:

Dave, Mike N., Mike H., and Casey have descended to Camp 2. On the way they helped a climber from another team, who had been abandoned at the Balcony (27,500′,) and who was in very bad shape. They managed to get her to Camp 3, where she was turned over to climbers from the Everest Expreme (medical research) team. We are proud of these guys for doing a great job on the way up, and the way down!! We’ll keep you posted!

This comes on the heels of a tragedy that occured last season when a similar incident occured with climber David Sharp…the difference this year?  People went back up to help and the climber was saved.  The David Sharp incident last season brought International attention to climber ethics and how these rescues were handled on Mt. Everest.  Over the past few weeks, we have all witnessed some great high altitude rescues taking place…and all I can attribute that to is the memory of David Sharp…

While I am talking about IMG, today they are reporting that their final team has successfully made the summit today and will shortly be heading back to basecamp. This is great news that has seen well over 33 IMG team members make the summit this year.  Congratulations!

Italian Climber Found Near Death at High Camp

An Italian Climber on North Everest was found today near the Camp at 8300 Meters.  Marco, as he has simply been known thus far, was found unconscience and had apparently spent close to 48 hours lying in the snow before he was discovered by members of Alex Abramov’s 7Summits Expedition.  Here is what 7Summits reported: Read more

Next Page »