China vs. Mother Nature: The Quest for Artificial Weather

Who controls the weather?  This debate, in a round about way, has been taking place for centuries.  When the weather was unbearably dry, ancient Indian nations would come together and perform their “Indian Rain Dance” to try to persuade the Gods to open up the skies–

Step ahead a couple of centuries to the present.  A lengthy article in the Asian Times Online goes into detail about how China has been in the process of manufactoring weather since 1958.  No, this isn’t science fiction.

China has seemingly developed a way to not only make it rain when it wants to, but to also control such things as hail storms. If you are still questioning the validity of all of this, The Chinese Government has stated that their methods have already been used to control the weather for such international events as the 1993 East Asian Games and the 1999 Horti-Expo in Yunnan..and next up on the list?  The 2008 Olympic Games to be held in Beijing.

So How Does This All Work?

It would be alot easier to explain that China just hits a button, but actually it is a rather large scientific process.  To bring it down to scope, the basics of the process involves firing rounds of silver oxide ammunition into the clouds.  The weight of the silver oxide will cling to the water in the clouds and bring it back down to the ground.

This is a pretty interesting and scientifically proven method that just happened to be developed by the United States in the 1940’s and 50’s–but we lost interest in this on the belief that Mother Nature usually wins..

China has went on to take this research and expand significantly on what has been known about weather formation.  Each of the Chinese Provinces now has it’s own Artificial Weather Modification Base.  This is all controlled by the Chinese Government and they say when to enact the weather changing science.

The Artificial Weather Modification Department boasts over 32,000 chinese employees, as well as 7,100 anti-aircraft guns, 4,991 special rocket launchers and 30 specially equipped aircraft to help in this process.  This is a large expenditure, but the thoughts behind it’s development can not be taken lightly.  It was original enacted to help with the issue of drought that plagues a big size chunk of China.

There begs to be a couple of questions asked though…Silver-Oxide is a known polutant and poison in large quantities, how will this affect China in the future?  They do mention that the silver oxide they use is in such small quantities to not have an effect on the environment, yet what happens as it builds up over the years?

Another question?  If China can do this, why has this idea not been exported to the likes of Countries in Africa that could definately use this technology for both water and food, which they are currently suffering a major crisis with?

In a way though, this all seems pretty much amazing to me.  If the United States would seemingly begin to use this technology, perhaps we could gain control of the massive wildfire outbreaks in the West, or they could broadcast a report of Artificial Rain on the news and we would all be guaranteed of knowing just when to bring the ol’ umbrella…

What are your thoughts?

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The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

First Pluto is Demoted, and now The Nile?

That is right.  The world we live in and beyond is vastly changing at a rate that not many of us are to fond of.

Pluto has been written off the planet charts (even though I agree with my daughter, most of us will still consider it a planet in our world of “underground” knowledge) by scientists, now it is just a large rock floating in the abyss..

Add to that, the recent unravelings of the World’s Longest River…The Nile, you think?

Think again.  The Amazon.  That is right.  Scientists have recently discovered that the Amazon River is approximately 176 miles longer than originally thought and now extends into the Southern reaches of Peru, making it the NEW world’s longest river.

The 176 miles of new Amazon, will place it at roughly 4, 225 miles long–making it 65 miles longer than the Nile.

Scientists sponsored by The Brazilian Institute of Science and Statistics, have placed the new Amazon beginning in the Southern Mountains of Peru.

This has to be disheartening to at least one individual–Martin Strehl–who laid claim earlier this year to completing the first swim that went the full distance of the Amazon…

This just goes to show that no one is ever happy being in second place..

It will be interesting to see how Egypt takes this news as well..Perhaps the Nile will grow soon, too…

I can slowly see Mr. Martin Strehl’s great accomplishments in the World of River Swimming being wiped off the charts..Perhaps he had swam one river to many..and p’d off the wrong folks…

$5000 Charge for Wilderness Rescue Ignites Debate–Again.

A Kansas man has been billed $5000 for a wilderness rescue after he injured his ankle while hiking along a steep hillside.

This debate has been raging for well over a year now–whether or not people in the wilderness, when accidents happen, should be liable to pay for their rescue.

Kansas is only one of a number of states who have been looking in to billing people that have come to need a rescue involving local authorities.  Colorado also has a similar law in place and one is also currently making the rounds in Utah.

The great Blog, Two-Heel Drive ran by Tom Mangan, tipped me off to the forementioned article featured in the June 18th issue of Rocky Mountain News discussing this incident, as well as the debate raging in Kansas.  You may read the whole article HERE.

As far as Colorado is concerned, there has recently been news that another individual will be billed $7500 for his subsequent rescue as well.

This is reigniting a big debate amongst outdoor enthusiasts.  Should they be charged or shouldn’t they?  I have already expressed my own opinion on this matter as it pertains to climbers needing rescued–(please see story posted HERE, for my opinion.)  How much is to much?

Alot of us go out and try to enjoy the peace and solitude of the outdoors for 1) it is great exercise, 2) it gets you away from the hustle and bustle of cities…and PEOPLE, and 3) It is alot cheaper to walk a trail then drive a car.

If all of us ran the risk of having to pay $7500 for rescue after a badly twisted ankle PLUS our own medical bills, would we still be outdoors?

Alot of the previous debate over this issue has occured mainly over climbers getting stranded high on mountains, as in the two incidents that have occured in the past year on Mt. Hood. More and more though, we as individuals are seeing this pop up for some things that seem–dare I say mundane?

I think the political motivation behind this issue has jumped from saving lives to making money, and in a sense, infringing upon our own freedoms to explore nature and the outdoors.

Perhaps a few people have taken advantage of the system.  Perhaps a few have ended up where they never should have been in the first place without the experience or guidance they needed to be there.  Is this a reason to Pigeonhole a whole section of the American population? Instead of going out to “Get Away From It All”, that “All” is slowly trying to step in and even take away the essence of being out there.

Read more

The Adventurist Sparks a Nerve….Twice…And You Speak Out!

This past week has seen two pretty controversial pieces here at The Adventurist take center stage.  The first one titled “David Sharp HAD to Die” was recently mentioned on ExplorersWeb and has seen well over 2,000 people stopping by to check it out in the past few days alone.

The David Sharp issue continues to be a very hot topic, even a year after this incident took place.  The media and the Climbing Community have been very vocal on their thoughts and concerns over this incident and it seems like everyone has their own opinions.  I figured I would highlight a couple of these opinions that have been shared here on The Adventurist, just to show you a bit of the differing viewpoints taking place:

First, From reader Yolan:

I am still amazed that people have a problem with climbers dying on Everest…..if you plan to take a risk like that, it is a known factor in the whole “picture”. Expecting a Sherpa (or anyone else for that matter) to risk his/her life to save yours, is way out of line….. ethics be damned…cerebral edema may not be a complication that a climber can prepare for, but as a climber, you have to know it is a potential hazzard in the “death zone” (called that for a reason!!) in a situation like and Everest summit attempt, it should be made very clear…. every person for himself!!!

From reader Leon:

It is unfair for members of the public to have such a negative opinion about how climbers are left in the death zone to die because they have never experienced being at that altitude and in such extreme conditions.

When a climber sets foot on a mountain, he or she SHOULD be awear of the dangers and be prepared for the unexpected.

And Lastly, from reader Helen:

Yolan and Leon have missed the central point here - from all reports 40 climbers passed David Sharp on the way UP. 40 still relatively fresh climbers with Os and Dex, 40 climbers with thoughts ONLY of the summit. You’re damn right the “public” have a negative opinion. Most people I talked to at the time (public all) could not imagine why anyone would think being the 431st or so person on top could possibly outweigh saving another “climber”. What story would YOU rather tell back home ? I made it to a summit thats been climbed a thousand times ? Or I saved a life ?

These comments just tip the surface of this great debate, but none the less, it is very interesting to see the different views expressed.

The second piece that seems to be drawing alot of attention is a piece I wrote just a couple of days ago titled “Dave Hahn, Usha Bista, and How The Mainstream Media Bites a Big One“. Read more

Dave Hahn, Usha Bista and How The Mainstream Media Bites a Big One…

First off, let me be the first to say that, quite frankly, I am pissed.  Luckily, I am not mainstream media and can rightfully say whatever I want to on this platform–so, I am pissed.

The media has picked up the recent story of Dave Hahn’s incredible high altitude rescue and once again turned it in to the David Sharp incident–

For the last two months I have been covering the news from Mt. Everest, I have not seen one…NOT ONE story about anything to do with Everest or the great accomplishments, or the 5 or more other rescues, or the 5 deaths…NOT ONE STORY ON EVEREST until this one in the mainstream media!

What Dave Hahn rightfully done was incredible, he saved a life that probably would have died within hours..but the media has already stepped in and skewed the story.

They have seemingly jumped on the “words” of various climbers claiming that Usha Bista was left by her team on Everest, without knowing ANY of the background, or for that matter, even her name.  They simply call her Usha.

It amazes me that they will report this story, skew it for the public, then cry about climbers rights, climbers etiquette…and try to arouse a reaction out of the public.  This is what is wrong, not only in the climbing world, but in news reporting in general! 

The facts have been stated at least two days ago by myself and a couple of other places about the circumstances surrounding this rescue mission. 

Usha Bista was rescued.  She was rescued by Dave Hahn.  She was found alone and in dire shape.  That is what is known.  NOTHING ELSE at this point.

At the same time, there are two paragraphs in the piece I just got done mentioning, talking about Usha Bista.  Another three about DAVID SHARP.

In a way, I have worked in mainstream media in the past as a journalist.  I know how these things go.  They have pieced this whole scenario on what the IMG team first reported on their Expedition Site.  But they state everything as fact even though it was stated that it was not known if she was left behind and further details would not be known until the IMG team had a chance to talk to her.

One other thing I found interesting in this bit of media circus journalism was the fact that they had a comment about this situation from Dave Hahn himself, as follows:

I was very concerned because her oxygen had run out. She was virtually unresponsive, and in a precarious spot on the mountain, on a steep snowy slope,” Hahn told The Times via satellite phone from Base Camp.

This is ALL Dave had to tell the Times, I guess, about this rescue mission, as nothing else was printed in reference to this conversation.  Now, I am not going “whistle-blowing” here, but do you not think that Dave would have at least talked about the rescue mission and what occured while he was on the phone?  It just seems like the rest should have been included.  Or was it excluded for a reason?  Here is more:

She was at a similar altitude to the cave where Sharp died on May 15, 2006, after an estimated 40 climbers passed him by, most of them without making any attempt to save him. His death sparked an international controversy, with some arguing that a rescue would have cost more lives. Others, including Sir Edmund Hillary, condemned the cynicism of commercial mountaineers.

Usha, like Sharp, was apparently on the sort of barebones expedition that charges clients typically as little as $8,933 and provides them with only basic equipment.

Also like Sharp, she was too weak to move when she was found by David Hahn, a veteran American guide, and his sherpa, Phinjo Dorje, on their way down from the summit. Hahn and Phinjo Dorje decided to risk their own lives by taking her with them, even though she was only semiconscious and suffering from severe cerebral oedema, or water on the brain.

Right there is 90% of this News report!

Do Not believe what you read in the media!  They Over-hype, Over-sensitize…and quite often never give you all the facts.

Alpine Climbing and climber’s ethics have taken a huge hit because of the David Sharp incident last season, perhaps in a way it was good, as this season did see quite a few rescues take place in high altitude..but at the same time not EVERY RESCUE is David Sharp!  Each and every instance is different and unless you are actually on that freakin mountain you have no idea how you would react, so quit your whining and crying and tearing down of a world you know nothing about!

Mountaineering is about risk.  It is about accomplishing the unachievable.  A test of self.

David Sharp did die.  He died in a horrible way that even to this day is still controversial in terms of what is and isn’t known…I just think that it is time we all move beyond David Sharp and quit trying to draw attention and raise opinions, cause a ruckus and deface a lifestyle all for the sake of alittle airtime. 

By the way, this story was featured on FoxNEWS today and is still found on their website, but I don’t suggest you go over their to check it out or you’ll be biting a big one just like they hopefully are.

Everest 2007 Update: More Details on Two Rescues As Well As Another Missing Climber?

Yesterday, I reported on two High Altitude Rescues taking place.  One was of a Nepalese Woman who had been stranded on the South Balcony, supposedly left behind by her team.  I now have more details on this incident.

I recieved an anonymous tip yesterday identifying the climber as Usha Bista.  I have held on to this information awaiting confirmation from other sources..and today it has been confirmed through the IMG team Expedition Update.

Here is what is known:

Usha Bista was climbing with the Democratic Nepal Expedition.  She got into trouble around 27, 500 Ft. near the Balcony on a push for the summit.  Her team meanwhile continued for the summit.  At this time, it is still a little bit sketchy as to if she was actually left or had fallen behind the rest of her team.

Here is a news item published before Usha Bista’s team began their Expedition.  It will list her and her teamates as well as their ultimate goal:

Wednesday, April 11,2007

KATHMANDU: Kantipur Publications on Tuesday handed over a banner containing its publications logo to the Democratic Everest Expedition team set to scale the world’s highest peak.
The team headed by veteran mountaineer Aangrita Sherpa, also known as the “Snow Leopard,” is set begin its expedition on Nepali New Year’s day.Publications’ Chief Financial Officer Deepak Bansal and journalist Aang Chhering Sherpa, the first South Asian journalist toscale
Mt. Everest, handed over the banner with best wishes to the expedition.

Kantipur Publications is the official media partner of the expedition.

The team includes Usha Bista, who will be the first lady from Far Western Nepal to scale Mt Everest, Ngima Sherpa, Chhiring Phinjo Sherpa, Bhuwan Singh Rai and Dorji Sherpa, who has reached the top 14 times.

The team will take photos of the martyrs of Janandolan-II and flags of eight political parties, United Nations and Kantipur Publications.

“We are planning to support the family members of the martyrs by making a documentary on the expedition,” said leader of the team Ngima Sherpa.

Through Mike Haugen with the IMG Expedition we are gaining some new insight into the events surrounding her successful rescue:

Within the first twenty minutes of our rest time (in C4 after summitting) we started getting radio calls that there was a woman on the triangular face of Everest (27,000 ft) that was having a very difficult time,” recalled Mike yesterday from BC. “A call went out to IMG guide Dave Hahn to watch for her on his way down. By the time Dave got to her she was in very bad shape and was nearly unconscious. At this point we all began playing detective and trying to figure out what team she was with and where their camp was. We figured out she was with the Nepali Democratic team and the rest of her teammates were high on the mountain. Dave had radio communication with some doctors at base camp. The doctors advised that Dave inject the patient, Usha, with dexamethazone to help with the effects of cerebral edema.”

“After Dave gave her the “dex” he had to get her down to lower altitudes or she would surely die. With the help of Lhakpa Rita Sherpa and a few other people they got Usha down to the South Col where luckily there was a team of doctors with the Extreme Everest expedition waiting to help. Usha was diagnosed with cerebral edema, frost bitten hands, and hypothermia. The doctors said that if she did not get down to lower altitudes with more definitive care, she would die. Since Casey, Dave Hahn and I are guides and were also headed down that day we were put in charge of coordinating the rescue.”

“Luckily the Extreme Everest group had a couple of Sherpas and a doctor, Andre, that they could send down with us. Since most people at the South Col had climbed Everest that day and were tired we only managed to find one more Sherpa from the Asian Trekking Expedition group that would help us with our task. For the extremely steep and rugged descent down from the South Col, Usha was packaged up in a sleeping bag strapped to a sled. Since carrying her down this terrain would be impossible we would have to drag her and lower her with ropes. This is a pretty standard rescue procedure where the patient is actually pretty comfortable and snug with a lot of padding.”

“There was actually a pretty big crew that helped us out of the South Col to the Geneva spur where the steep stuff started. We began rigging lowering systems with a couple of people lowering and a few guiding the sled. The very hard parts were the traverses where we not only had to lower and pull, but we had to make sure that Usha and the sled did not roll over. Eventually we figured out a good system that was not quite as fatiguing as when we first started. After the first hour I looked up at how far we had gotten and then looked down at where we had to go. I only did that once! We worked our way across the steep Lhotse Face and down through a rocky area called the Yellow Band. Once we got through this area it got a little easier because we were straight above C3 so we did more lowering than guiding the sled, but we were also getting very tired. Before we got to C3 the sun had set and it was starting to get cold.”

“We kept lowering and lowering and finally just above C3 a group of doctors from the Extreme Everest Expedition came up and helped us the rest of the way into camp. Once we were in C3 we handed Usha over to a group of physicians who put her in a tent under medical care. We were confident that she was being given top notch care. We were invited to stay in C3 but the thought of our own sleeping bags waiting at C2 was too inviting. By the time we descended the Lhotse face we had been climbing or rescuing for well over 24 hours so we were exhausted. A group of IMG Sherpas came to meet us on the glacier to bring us some water and to help us with our packs. As mountain guides, we never let anyone carry our packs but we were very tired. After a little fake resistance, we gladly gave up our packs and Dave, Casey and I stumbled back to C2.”

“This morning, on our walk down, we got a call over the radio thanking us for our efforts and letting us know that Usha was improving greatly. In fact, they were going to try to walk her down to camp II with the help of six Sherpas.”

It is still unclear as to why Usha Bista was left alone at the Balcony.  I am sure more details will be following shortly.  I will keep you posted.

North Side Rescue But Another Climber Missing?

There seems to be some great confusion going on today regarding another High Altitude Rescue.  It was reported yesterday that a climber simply known as “Marco” was found unconscience outside of Camp 3 and had supposedly been there for 48 hours.  The good news is that “Marco” was successfully rescued…the bad news…His partner is still missing.

I have now been able to identify “Marco” as Marco Epis of the Spirito Libero Expedition.  His partner on this expedition, Pierangelo Maurizio is still missing and no one has seen or heard from him since May 17.

EverestNews has put out this bulletin which will exemplify the confusion on this situation:

It has been another long long hard year reporting on Everest. False death reports all over as normal. Our news being copied and mangled. Of course those with clear agendas signing their songs and those who “claim not to have an agenda” signing their songs … Same old Everest, just another year!

The question is: Is another Italian climber, Pierangelo Maurizio,  missing?

Some seem sure no other climber is missing. Others off the mountain believe Pierangelo Maurizio is missing and probably lost now….

The confusion seems to get worse as most know an Italian climber, “Marco” was found and was saved from camp 3 on the North side. readers are telling us that Marco is not Pierangelo Maurizio and that Pierangelo Maurizio is still missing. Climbers we speak to on the mountain don’t seem to know another Italian climber is missing… Some seem to think Pierangelo Maurizio is Marco, other not… At this point, we believe Pierangelo Maurizio is not Marco and that most on the mountain does not know this. We hope we are wrong….

So with the risk is spreading a false rumor that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing as our news is repeated over and over, here it goes Pierangelo Maurizio is missing on Everest… Please let us know if you know where he is, people are concerned… 

We should add we know of NO other dead or missing climbers besides what we have reported to date and currently believe reports to the otherwise are false…

At this time it is known that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing, but that, in no way, means that he has perished on Mt. Everest. To date, only 5 climbers have been confirmed as dying this season on Mt. Everest.  They are as follows:  Dawa Sherpa, Two Korean Climbers-Oh Hee-Joon and Lee Hyun Jo, A Japanese Climber who perished a few steps from the summit upon descent-and a Czech Climber.  All of these have been confirmed.

On this issue, I agree with EverestNews that a climber is missing, as I have now confirmed the identity of “Marco”. 

Another interesting tidbit to back up the fact that Pierangelo Maurizio is missing..on May 17, Russell Brice and Kari Kobler each took part in a search and rescue mission to try to locate him…this next bit of information is coming from PlanetMountain and a recent interview they conducted with Nives Meroi on May 21:

On summit day, 17 May, there were problems with some mountaineers from another Italian expedition from Bergamo. I know that many gave a hand in the search. But to date there is no news about Pierangelo Maurizio…
Unfortunately there were problems… and we, just like the rest, tried to help as much as possible, even logistically. A rescue on a mountain like this requires the right means, you need to have rested, you need supplementary oxygen. And I have to say that the commercial expeditions led by Russell Brice and Kari Kobler were fantastic, offering all the means and their people at their disposal, unconditionally and free of charge. They truly deserve a big thank you!

Now I know that really didn’t answer anything to do with the question, but it does show that a mission was initiated to try to find the missing climber. 

By the way, if you would like to read the rest of this interview with Nives, Click HERE.
 

Everest 2007 Update: Two High Altitude Rescues, More Summits, and a Possible Weather Change?

Over the past day, two amazing rescues have occured at high-altitude, one each on the North and the South.  One rescue is cause for concern though, as we will see:

Female Nepali Climber Abandoned at 27,500 Feet

An Unknown female climber with the Democratic Nepal Everest Expedition was seemingly left for dead by her own team near the Balcony at 27,500 feet on Everest’s South Side yesterday.  At this time, this is all that is known of the actual incident other than details from the IMG Expedition Team who went up to try to make a high-altitude rescue.

Dave Hahn–who incidentally has some of the most famous High-Altitude rescues ever to his credit–went back up with both Mike and Casey from the Coleman Everest 2007 Expedition on an attempt to save this female climber.  Here are the details coming from the IMG Expedition website:

Dave, Mike N., Mike H., and Casey have descended to Camp 2. On the way they helped a climber from another team, who had been abandoned at the Balcony (27,500′,) and who was in very bad shape. They managed to get her to Camp 3, where she was turned over to climbers from the Everest Expreme (medical research) team. We are proud of these guys for doing a great job on the way up, and the way down!! We’ll keep you posted!

This comes on the heels of a tragedy that occured last season when a similar incident occured with climber David Sharp…the difference this year?  People went back up to help and the climber was saved.  The David Sharp incident last season brought International attention to climber ethics and how these rescues were handled on Mt. Everest.  Over the past few weeks, we have all witnessed some great high altitude rescues taking place…and all I can attribute that to is the memory of David Sharp…

While I am talking about IMG, today they are reporting that their final team has successfully made the summit today and will shortly be heading back to basecamp. This is great news that has seen well over 33 IMG team members make the summit this year.  Congratulations!

Italian Climber Found Near Death at High Camp

An Italian Climber on North Everest was found today near the Camp at 8300 Meters.  Marco, as he has simply been known thus far, was found unconscience and had apparently spent close to 48 hours lying in the snow before he was discovered by members of Alex Abramov’s 7Summits Expedition.  Here is what 7Summits reported: Read more

Everest 2007 Update: Summits, Summits, and More Summits

Yesterday I posted an Interview with David Tait as well as Alan Arnette’s BIG Announcement–both of these items were pretty big news.  I didn’t post my usual update yesterday with all the previously mentioned stuff going on…so guess what.  That means this is going to be one HUGE update covering the events that has been going on for the last couple of days.

Before I get in to that though, I would first like to post a fair warning for anyone coming by this site from the Television Without Pity forum.  There will be at least one Everest: Beyond the Limit spoiler here today.  So if you don’t want to know what has happened–either skip this post, or come back tomorrow.  I do appreciate all of you stopping by though.

Alright, Let’s get to it:

David Hahn Summits for a Record 9th Time

David Hahn, climbing with IMG, has successfully summited Mt. Everest for his record 9th time.  This puts David as the single most productive Everest Summiter ever that is a non-sherpa climber.  Don’t fear though, I am pretty sure that Apa Sherpa’s current record of 17 will be holding for quite a few more years to come.

Here is a post that Dave made to his expedition website GreatOutdoors:

Hey Great Outdoors, hey this is Dave and I’m on the summit of Mount Everest, it’s let’s see, see if I can see my watch here, it’s 6:40 now we got here 15 minutes ago. Beautiful morning. Beautiful morning. We beat the crowd, and it gave us some trouble, aggravating coming up in the dark at sunrise up the step part of the South Summit, but everybody rested on the South Summit and me and Phinjo Dorge from . . . right there and we got the jump and then had the traverse and Hillary Steps to ourselves, splendid morning, beautiful shadows, casting big shadow of Everest out to the horizon. Just beautiful, really very thrilling, and uh going to give you another call in a minute here, oh boy, it’s exciting to be here. Think I can see as far as I ever have been able to, Makalu, Kangchenchugka, Shishapangma, maybe that’s Manaslu back there, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, beautiful. Beautiful. Okay call you back in a few minutes when my fingers thaw out again.

Sounds like a great view from the top of the World’s Highest Peak, Mt. Everest.

Gavin Bate’s Near Death Experience…Summit Denied

Gavin Bate, who was trying to pull off his own successful traverse of Everest, going North to South, had to call off his climb after nearly dying at 8300 meters.

To begin to put this into perspective, David was planning on traversing Everest with his “shadow” Sherpa Pasang Tendi, using the bare minimum of essentials–a light-weight single-skin tent, a small stove and bivi sack, and whatever else he could manage to get into his backpack.  Now let’s go to the details of what transpired as he attempted to reach the summit.  First, from May 19: Read more

The Adventurist: The David Tait Interview Pt. 2, Post Everest 2007

In March of this year, The Adventurist had the priviledge of interviewing David Tait before he set off to climb Mt. Everest.  David’s ambitions were made very clear.  He wanted to become the first person to ever “Double-Traverse” Mt. Everest in the same season. 

He was well prepared.  David had summited Mt. Everest previously in 2006 and was feeling in such great shape afterwards that he made a commitment to dedicate himself to the world’s first ever double-traverse of Everest in 2007, all the while donating every penny earned to the NSPCC and trying to draw some much needed attention for his latest life mission– helping children who have been the victims of abuse in his native land.

David’s attempt garnered alot of attention this season.  He was a member of the much touted and often ridiculed Himex Team that is being led by Russell Brice–and who, by chance, was also being followed along by The Discovery Channel Team in hopes of filming their second season of Everest: Beyond the Limit.

Through David’s Expedition Blog this season we were given the rare opportunity to take a look at what goes on behind the scenes.  David’s thoughts, concerns, and daily routine were not only followed by myself, but by thousands of people around the world.  In effect, this attention has garnered David something that he has been trying to get accomplished for well over a year now–and that is helping the NSPCC.

Through David Tait’s great assault on Everest this season, we were all able to learn a little bit about ourselves.  David’s journey began strong.  He put himself in place to make a successful first summit and in essence, he did just that.  Half of his goal was accomplished.  Now all he had to do was go back down the opposite side of Mt. Everest, take a 7-10 day rest, and do it all over again from the South Col.

What surprised alot of people in the world was what happened next.  Upon reaching Camp on the South, David made an announcement that his double-traverse was essentially off–

Over the next couple of days, David would go on to explain his reasonings behind this decision.  He felt that Phurba Sherpa, his climbing partner this season, should be given the credit he was due.  If anyone should be the “first” to do something, David noted, It should be the Sherpa who have been an integeral part of every climbing expedition on Mt. Everest.

Over the past season, David has been looked upon as perhaps a little cocky.  David has been seen, as one climber put it, as the “007″ on Everest this season.  Discovery Channel found in David someone who they originally thought would make for great TV..he was good-looking, well prepared, well spoken, and at times could be a bit controversial..someone the american audiences would surely fall in love with.  But David had other plans…

David Tait is his own man.  From the beginning David stayed focused and knew where he was going.  He had goals and he stuck to them..and in a suprise move David Tait showed the World something that alot of us foresake….humility.

In David’s humility, as much as the decision was so hard for  alot of us to comprehend at the time–David still became the first person to EVER traverse Everest, North to South, from his native UK as well as the first Person to ever do so from Europe.

Two new records, a successful traverse of the world’s tallest peak–and tons and tons of humility…that is David Tait.

It is with great pleasure that I can bring to you the first In-Depth Interview with David since his decision to call off his Double-Traverse.  You will see, undoubtedly, how this all unfolded just days ago.

I will let you make up your own minds on who David Tait is and what he represents, as well as perhaps, show you what part of being great entails.

The Adventurist Interviews David Tait

 

The Adventurist:  When I first interviewed you for The Adventurist back in March, you were
just preparing to head off to Mt. Everest.  It has now been two and a half months and you have successfully summited Mt. Everest for a second time. How are you feeling right now and what is your general condition?

David Tait:  I’m feeling more than a little tired -I keep dozing off, but considering i’m still sitting in solitary confinement at the hotel Tibet in Katmandu, i’ve little else to do but read and sleep. I have started to reflect on the successes of the expedition and i’m quite content.

The Adventurist:  This marks the second Expedition to Mt. Everest that you have been on with Himex.  This season was a little bit different though as The Discovery Channel Film Crew was on hand to record what was going on.  Can you elaborate a bit on this experience, and did it in any way influence your day to day activities and preparation?

David Tait:  Yes, I found the film crew to be a nice sociable bunch, but in an ideal world I would have prefered to climb without them. This is for two reasons - firstly, I believe [my opinion only] that they became a little disappointed with the ordinaryiness of the participants, and desperately wanted something to “spice things up”…. i bored them senseless with interviews in which i only referred to the climb and my charity work. i think they hoped for a lot more than this. Secondly, in my opinion again, there was disproportionate attention given to two memebers of the expedition, one complete [literally] novice lady, and one larger than life, but ultimately offensive semi-experienced man. It was clear to me, owing to the coverage that these two got, that the essence of the program [reality tv] would fail without their presence. I found this a little depressing at times.

The Adventurist:  As your summit attempt was taking shape, Russell Brice met with you and
Phurba Sherpa giving you  the go-ahead to start your ascent.  First, can you tell us about this meeting and second, why were you given the go-ahead so far in advance of the rest of the Himex crew?

David Tait:  ———-The meeting was help on the “tigerdome” in the presence once again
of the cameras. Russ, Phurba and i discussed firstly the current state of the fixed ropes, the imminent plans to fix higher, ultimately to the summit, the plans for moving or removing bodies [with permission] from the route, and finally the plans for our traverse/s - this included oxygen, and other minor logisitcs. We had the go ahead to leave earlier owing to the intention of double-traversing inside the proscribed time limit of the end of the season.

The Adventurist:  Upon beginning your ascent there were varied accounts of the projected
“Weather Window” for the summit.  You essentially took a chance by taking off a bit
earlier than everyone else.  Was this planned to beat the crowds or were there other factors involved?

David Tait:  The principal factor was to allow for a second return attempt - hence the early departure. The weather looked a little didgy when we left abc, but in the end it was ideal. We realized there would likely be crowds, but as we both move very fast, we were confident we could outpace most - as we manged.

The Adventurist:  Once you had finally made your successful summit from the North and began to head down the South, did you have any idea that you would be fixing ropes and breaking trail on your descent?  Also, for the uninitiated, can you explain what you had to do and the toll that it eventually took?

David Tait:  Yes, we were aware that the south-side sherpas had only fixed rope to the “balcony”. However, as both of us hadn’t  seen the south-side before, we had no real idea where the balcony was, or how hard it would be to reach. We set off from the summit somewhat blind, moving very slowly and carefully, digging footholds, one at a time, so that the snow wouldn’t mini-avalanche,taking one of us with it. We were joined together by 25 m of rope for safety, and belay-relayed ourselves along the ridge to the Hilary
step. Somehow my oxygen got turned off by hitting the wall, and I thought I was suffocating - I dont know how. Phurba checked for me and turned it back on. That was a weird 10 mins. We were also carrying 150m of rope for possible permanent fixing. We fixed line from the Hillary step, across and up to the south summit - this took an age owing to the need to creep slowly across the ridge-line, cutting footholds. From the south summit to the balcony was
fairly routine, but with quite deep shifting snow. Once at the balcony we discovered the fixed rope….it took us from 6.30 until 11 am approx. to
negotiate the distance from the summit to the balcony….many times longer than it would have done under normal circumstances.

The Adventurist:  In the beginning of this journey, your goal was to “Double-Traverse” the
world’s highest mountain, but after your first successful summit and crossing over to the South you changed your mind.  Can you take us through this process and the reasonings behind your change of mind?

David Tait:  The reasons I changed my mind are twofold. Firstly, and most importantly,  as I mentioned on my site, the only way I was personally going to claim “first to double traverse” was if i asked a superior climber and human being [Phurba] to effectively “step-aside” and let me ” win”. This has been gnawing away at me for months. Having watched Phurba fix ropes to the
summit on April 30th, and then descend to bc in 6 hours, i knew in my heart that he deserved all plaudits. He is an extrordinary chap, honest,
generous, patient and modest to a point that the Dalai Lama could learn things from him. There was no way, especially in the context of my charity work, that I could pretend to supercede him.
The second thing, closely connected was that I was also very tired from the descent - much more than I had anticipated. In the context of not wanting to usurp Phurba, I knew that there was little if any point in forcing my way over this mountain yet again, to come in second. I also feel strongly that such “titles” are there for the sherpas to take and legitimately own….. they
are streets ahead of ALL westerners, so I contented myself with “the first Brit” or if i’m lucky ” the first westerner” to traverse north-south.[ maybe you could help me with a clearer verification? I'd be grateful]. I’ve been told by many many informed people that im the first brit, but id like to know for dead-sure?

The Adventurist:  How different was this experience compared to your first successful summit? Was it easier or harder?

David Tait:   Harder - only in as much as I underestimated the south side descent…. 17 hours of arm-wrapping in both snow-storms and blazing sun - in a down suit….

The Adventurist:  Looking back, is there anything you would have done differently on this
Expedition, or did everything pretty much go as planned?

David Tait:  Everything went better than planned - I managed to summit/traverse after
only 35 days of acclimatization, and the summit day climb was relatively easy…I was suprised.

The Adventurist:  The NSPCC, your charity that you were doing this for, has been able to gain
alot of publicity through yourself and The Discovery Film Team.  If you had a few words for these kids you are trying to help, what would you say?

David Tait:   For the abused kids out there : you have a choice, as I once did. Your life can go south or it can go north - the choice is up to you. Stop blaming others and focus on yourself. I carried my secrets for 30 years - a wasted thirty years. let things go, and start climbing life.

The Adventurist:  Well, Once again David, I will congratulate you on a great climb and a successful second Mt. Everest summit!  It has been a pleasure to follow along with you on this fantastic journey and we are all looking forward to hearing more from you soon.  Hope your recovery goes well.. I am sure Vanessa can’t wait to see you!!  Now hurry Home…Safely!

 Bonus Questions

The Adventurist:  Since this is now over, do you think you will ever try Everest again?

David Tait:  Maybe, if my son or daughter wanted company etc…. but not for
any other reason.

The Adventurist:  In your opinion, what website brings the best “Adventure” coverage in
the world?    This may or may not be published depending on answer.  Ha,ha.

 David Tait:  You definately have a great site - i’m honestly only familiar with you and Ex-web. Yours is far more interesting owing to the manner in which you apparently obtain your info.  You are accurate, Ex-web isnt….dt

Editor’s Note:  At this time, David Tait has been confirmed as being the first person from the UK to make a successful Traverse of  Mt. Everest. 

I would also like to make a point to say that the opinions and viewpoints represented on The Adventurist are not neccessarily those of this site. In the context of  representing all viewpoints in the most accurate fashion, nothing has been left out, and except for a couple of minor spelling changes..everything is being presented as it was.

If you are interested in reading David’s first interview, just days before he began this incredible journey in March, you may do so by clicking HERE.

And Lastly, David Tait is currently in Kathmandu awaiting the arrival of his equipment so that he may leave for home.  David has mentioned that there just may be a book in the works about his two successful summits of Mt. Everest as well his work with the NSPCC…We will keep our eyes out for this project and I will bring more to you when I find out further.

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