Alan Arnette on Shisha Pangma

My good friend Alan Arnette is currently sitting at Advanced Base Camp on Shisha Pangma–the 14th tallest peak in the world.  His acclimatization has went well, his communication problems from the mountain have been solved, but now it looks like the weather and time might be his enemy–

The Project Himalaya Team have now been bunkered down at ABC for five days straight.  The weather conditions continue to hamper any further progress for the team and now the questions are beginning to be asked…will they have a shot at the summit?

The weather forecasts moves more than the Ravens. The team energy moves in proportion with the daily weather. Day one was nice, day two it snowed, day three it snowed more and became extremely cold, day four warmer but more snow, day five bright and sunny, that night however it was brutally cold.

The team only has a limited window to make a push for the summit.  They are planning a mid-October return home, yet the days and hours tick by.  Other teams are stranded as well.  Some have even left the mountain.  For them, Shisha Pangma would not relinquish the summit.

Alan has spent time acclimatizing.  After a rough time on Denali, he has questioned his own health, but thus far Alan’s health has proved immaculate.  He has had no problems with the altitude and has now been higher than any mountain in the United States.  He is waiting.  He is ready.  If only the weather would clear…

Alan Arnette’s journey to Shisha Pangma is a personal one.  Last year, Alan learned that his mother had been diagnosed with Alzheimers.  A terrible disease that eats at your thoughts.  It takes away your past and makes you forget everything around you, including who your loved ones are.  Alan has made it his mission to help in the fight for a cure for this dreaded disease.  Alzheimers has affected all of us in one way, shape, or form, but Alan has taken it upon himself to do something about it.

At 53, Alan might not be the youngest climber.  Actually, it is pretty safe to say that he is not.  He does have experience though.  He has been to Everest twice.  He is hoping for a third time in 2008.  The summit still eludes him.  Now,  it isn’t about the summits though.  It isn’t about the glory.  It is about his mother and that dreaded disease.  The memmories and the memmories lost between a mother and child.  Alan will climb on.

Sitting in the mess tent with his fellow teammates, they all contemplate their future.  Alan questions how to bring more awareness to his cause, and if people even care.  Since leaving in August, Alan is brutally honest when stating that his Alzheimers fund has only managed a mere $110 increase in this time.  Is it all for nothing?  No.  To Alan every little bit helps.

When I first began to talk with Alan Arnette just about a year ago, we had alot in common.  I was new on the scene.  Alan had been covering Mt. Everest and his passion for climbing on his own site for a few years.  He became someone I could look to for honesty and a helping hand.  He kept it real.  Over the past few months, Alan has given himself completely to his cause.  Helping his mother.  Helping those of you that have been touched by Alzheimers.  Even in the face of death–being airlifted off the high slope of Denali a few months back–Alan still wanted to climb on.  He knows the importance.  Time is his enemy.

It is very rare–actually, I don’t remember a time where I have made such a plea in the past–yet, for Alan, I am going to.  100% of the money given to Alan’s Alzheimers fund goes directly to the doctors..to the researchers trying to come up with a cure.  Alan is climbing on his own money.  $50,000.  That is a cheap rate for climbing Mt. Everest.  Add in Denali, Shisha Pangma, and 12 14,000 Ft. peaks in Colorado and you can begin to see the time and money Alan is putting towards his goal.

It isn’t about the summit.  It is about his mother!  It is about your family and friends.  It is about the memmories. 

We have all enjoyed following Alan and his tremendous efforts.  His brutally honest dispatches have taken all of us to Shisha in a way that few of us have ever experienced before.  Let’s give him a hand.  Let’s show our support.  Let’s give—even if it is a dollar–I average over 10,000 readers a month.  If each of us would give a dollar..that is $10,000.  A far cry from the $110 thus given during this Shisha Pangma expedition.  Now imagine if we each gave $5.00, or perhaps even a bit more.  I am not rich.  I don’t have money flying out of my ass, but I do think all of us could sacrifice that Bigmac to help out a worthy cause.  To help out a friend.  I am sure Alan would appreciate the efforts.

To help out, you can make your donations by following the link found below.  As Alan always says “Memmories are Everything”.

Gifts to support breakthrough research in Alan Arnette’s campaign to raise $100,000 can be made through online donations, or checks can be mailed directly to Cure Alzheimer’s Fund (please be sure to designate your gift to The Road Back to Everest: Memories are Everything). Feel free to call 1-877-Cure Alz (287-3259) with any questions or if you’d rather make your credit card gift over the phone.

You can follow this link to make your donation now:  The Cure Alzheimers Fund.

Alan Arnette Makes First Live Broadcast Enroute to Shisha Pangma

My good friend Alan Arnette has made his first live broadcast and posted it to his site today.  Alan is currently traveling from Lhasa, Tibet to Basecamp of Shisha Pangma–the world’s 14th tallest peak.

After listening to what Alan had to say, it makes me wonder why he is not a Professional speaker.  He really puts you in the mood and brings you right along to Tibet with him…Potholes and all.

I do reccomend if you have never checked out a live broadcast from an expedition, to head on over and check this one out.  It will show you a bit of what can be done with today’s technology.  Pay particular attention to his “Tibetan Restraunt Review”  Very interesting to say the least.

 

This is Alan’s second major test before heading to Mt. Everest in 2008.  Earlier this year, Alan traveled to Denali..and now he is off to Shisha Pangma for his biggest test yet.  He is climbing with Project Himalaya.

Please note that Alan is climbing strictly for charities sake.  His cause, to help in Alzheimer’s research.  Stop by his site, check out the new audio podcast–then if you want to help, make a small donation.  You may do so by following this link:

Alan Arnette Chimes in From Lhasa, Tibet

My good friend Alan Arnette has reported in from Lhasa, Tibet on his journey to the slopes of the 14th highest peak in the world–Shisha Pangma.

Alan arrived in Tibet with his team, Project Himalaya, a few days ago.  Before heading off to Shisha Pangma, the team has had a small three day break in which they were allowed to take in the sites and sounds of Lhasa.

The above photo is just one of the many sites that Alan has had a chance to visit these last couple of days.  This photo is of the Potala..home of the Dalai Lamas–all 13 stories!

Stop by here to read up on the history of this structure over at Alan’s own site, as well as check out the rest of the fantastic photos.  Alan has been running a debate with himself in regards to Lhaka being an ancient society or a modern high-tech society..his answers may surprise you–

Alan is also reporting that since the members still in Lhasa are right around the 11,000 ft. of elevation level, that in fact this is looked upon as an acclimatization excursion.  He said all is doing well and no major problems with anyone on the Project Himalaya team.

Tomorrow Alan will be heading out to Shisha Pangma Basecamp

Let’s all remember that Alan is climbing 100% for charity this year as he tries to land himself back on Mt. Everest.  If you would like to show Alan your support, it is asked that you please make a small donation to his cause:

Alan Arnette Arrives In Kathmandu!!

 

My good friend Alan Arnette has posted his first dispatch from Kathmandu today.  Many of you will know that Alan is currently off preparing to climb the world’s 14th highest peak, Shisha Pangma. 

Shisha Pangma will be Alan’s second major step in his efforts to land back at Mt. Everest in 2008.  Earlier this year, Alan went to Denali where a slight health concern forced him to abort his attempt.  After confering with doctors and getting the green light to continue his climbing, Alan subsequently climbed 12 of Colorado’s 14,000 ft. peaks.  Now, it is off to Shisha Pangma in the Himalayas.

From Alan’s dispatch today in Kathmandu:

Kathmandu! What a city. After leaving Colorado early Thursday morning, I finally arrived in this wonderful city. Nothing has changed. The last time I was here was in 2003 for Everest. The arrival at the airport was what I expected - organized chaos.

From there, Alan goes into detail of finding his luggage, trying to figure out what time it is in Kathmandu, and finally meeting up with his Project Himalaya teammates.  It sounds like Alan is glad to be back in Kathmandu, even though not much has changed since Alan was last there in 2003 while attempting Everest for the second time.

Alan has sent back a few nice pictures of the scene outside the airport in Kathmandu.  He is also promising to try his hand at a little videography while he is on this expedition.  Alan will be trying to post daily reports of his trip to Shisha Pangma–before, during, and after his attempt at the 14th tallest peak in the world.

Remember that Alan is climbing solely for charity.  That is the whole reason he decided to try to head back to Everest in 2008.  His mission is trying to raise money for Alzheimer’s Research.  100% of all money donated to Alan’s charitable cause will be going to this effort. 

If you would enjoy following along with Alan as he makes this attempt on Shisha Pangma, you may do so by following this link to Alan Arnette’s Shisha Pangma Expedition.  I will also be posting coverage as this climb progresses.  If you are feeling a bit geneerous, perhaps you could even help Alan with his cause by making a donation at the following link.  I know Alan would appreciate all of the help and support he can get.

Climb On My Friend and have a safe journey!  We are all watching!

Alan Arnette: Shisha Pangma A Go!

My good friend Alan Arnette has either already left or is preparing to leave for his next goal:  Shisha Pangma.

Many of you that read this blog quite regularly are already familiar with Alan.  I have made quite a few posts concerning him here on The Adventurist and will be making quite a few more in the future.

Earlier this year–actually during the 2007 Mt. Everest climbing season–Alan Arnette announced that he was going to try to back to to Mt. Everest for a third time in the Spring of 2008.  Two previous attempts at the World’s Highest Summit had to be aborted when Alan became ill.  He has yet to reach his summit…

Alan’s journey back to Mt. Everest began shortly after his announcement.  His first big step would be Denali–North America’s highest peak.  Alan climbed strong and hard clear up to the end–the end not being the summit, but a rather mysterious stomach ailment that forced him to abort his attempt, as well as get his first hand view of a high-altitude rescue on Denali. Read more

Alan Arnette’s Mystery on Denali

My good friend Alan Arnette has a story that has been well-featured on the front page of the SummitPost site.  “Mystery on Denali” is Alan’s take on his recent trip to the highest peak in North America and the troubles that ensued..

Most of my readers will already know of this story as I done quite a bit of coverage as Alan was embarked on this expedition.  Other’s of you may want to head on over to either SummitPost or Alan’s Personal Site to find out what all the mystery is about..

Remember, Alan has began a true test of will and spirit–mind and body.  In 2008, Alan is hoping to go for the peak of the world’s tallest mountain Mt. Everest, for a third time.  Health has turned him back twice…but Alan has a way of picking himself back up and trying again.

Alan is doing all of this in the name of his charity.  He pockets no money.  All money will be sent to aid in Alzheimer’s Research.  You may also find out more on all of this over at Alan’s site as well.

I do want to add that Alan emailed me recently and told me that his problems have pretty much come out fine.  After conferring with numerous doctors and specialists over the past month, he has been given a clean bill of health…as well as a clean bill for the cash he owes them..haha.  We wish Alan the best of luck here at The Adventurist, and we will be following along in 3 weeks as Alan begins his journey to Shisha Pangma..the world’s 14th tallest peak, for stage two of this amazing adventure.

Alan Arnette: Lessons From Denali

My good friend Alan Arnette has made a new post on his site regarding his recent attempt on Denali.

If you will remember, Alan ended up suffering from an unknown stomach issue and had to be medi-vaced off Denali.

The good news is that Alan is doing better now, the bad news is that he is still unsure of what exactly happened….AND he is leaving for an expedition to Shisha Pangma in 5 weeks, the world’s 14th tallest peak.

Alan is definately pushing himself to the limits.  All of this is in hopes of getting back to Mt. Everest for a third attempt on the world’s highest peak in 2008.  His previous two attempts have ended early due to high altitude health issues, but he is hoping his third will finally land him on the top of this elusive peak..

Alan’s first major step was his recent trip to Denali–that ended rather mysteriously.  Stage two will now take him to Shisha Pangma.

Alan has been confering with his doctors and specialists about what might have happened on Denali, and still, no answers have been straight forward.  He is hoping that it was a one time deal and that all is well now.

Alan is climbing to benefit Alzheimer’s Research, a very personal mission on Alan’s behalf, and one I think alot of us can relate to.  If you would like to help support Alan’s project of getting back to Everest, he would like for you to make a small (actually he would prefer a very, VERY LARGE-haha) donation to:

Once more, Alan has all the funding he needs for his expedition and 100% of the proceeds to this fund will directly benefit Alzheimer’s Research.

If you would like to read Alan’s latest post about his thoughts looking back on Denali as well as his recent research into his health issues, as well as some very beautiful photos, please stop by his site and read this POST.

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

Massive Summit Push For Broad Peak is a Success!!

 

Trying to outrun an approaching storm system on Broad Peak, many climbers combined their efforts yesterday for one final push–landing them on the summit!

The Broad Peak summit was reached at 12:30 pm local time by the “Al Filo” Team and members are now trying to race down the mountain in a speed descent to try to reach Camp 3 before nightfall.

The successful summiters on Broad Peak include:

• Silvio “Gnaro” Mondinelli
• Marco Confortola
• Ivan Vallejo
• Gerlinde Kaltenbruner
• Ralf Dujmovits
• Fabio Iacchini
• Edurne Pasaban
• as well as others that are awaiting verification.

Over 70 people took off yesterday for this massive summit push, making there way through very cold tempertures and rising winds.

Silvio Mondinelli Bags 14th 8,000 Meter Peak

With Silvio’s successful summit of Broad Peak, he now becomes the 13th person in the world to land on top of the 14 tallest peaks. He also becomes the sixth person to do so without the use of supplemental O2 along his journey.  Two other Italians, Reinhold Messner and Sergio Martini have also mastered the 14 8,000 meter peaks.

Two More Closing In

Ivan Vallejos and Ralf Dumojvits have both been to Broad Peak before, but each of them stand a pretty good chance of accomplishing their respective goals of reaching the tops of all 14 8,000 meter peaks as well.  Ivan Vallejos now only needs Dhauligiri to complete his quest and Dumojvits is currently standing at 10 peaks.

Women Closing in as Well

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, the leading lady on the quest for 14 8,000 meter peaks has made Broad Peak her tenth.  Edurne Pasaban is sitting one below with 9 at this momment.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, the crafty Austrian, has accomplished her 10 successful summits without any supplementary O2.  She is married to the previously mentioned Ralf Dujmovits and between them now own 22 8,000 meter summits.

A Little Broad Peak History

Broad Peak stands at 26, 400 feet and measures up as the 12th highest peak in the world and the fourth highest in Pakistan.  It was originally labeled K3, and sits along the Pakistan-China Border.  It’s first ascent came on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemburger, and Hermann Buhl, all members of an Austrian Expedition put together by Marcus Schmuck.

Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemburger were subsequently killed 18 days later while trying to ascend a nearby peak, Chogolisa on June 27, 1957.

Alan Arnette’s Denali Health Scare and Update

We have all been following along with my good friend Alan Arnette and his year long effort that will hopefully land him back on Mt. Everest for a third time.

This past week Alan was doing a “training” climb on Mt. Denali, North America’s tallest peak.  He seen this as a stepping stone to his eventual goal–but the stepping stone decided to give Alan a run for his money, as we will see.

From Alan Arnette’s Post:

We climbed higher and soon I could see the top of the headwall at 16,100’. I was feeling strong, comfortable and confident. Actually I was enjoying the climb and feeling secure - then it happened.  

A hit to my stomach that took my breath away. I stopped in my tracks bringing my rope to an abrupt halt. I bent over to catch my breath. What the Fu*K? I asked myself.

I pushed as I consider what was happening. Was I drinking enough? I had a liter at breakfast and another half at the break. Eaten enough? Cream of wheat for breakfast and a Cliff Bar an hour ago. Warm enough? Yup, needed to zip down to stay cool and was comfortable. OK, covered the basics, what else. I felt like I had diarrhea. What had I eaten… the same as the others. So, probably no food problem including food poisoning.

Needless to say, the next few hours seen Alan getting worse.  His condition had deteriorated to the point where Medical Evacuation from Denali was intitiated.

To speak with Alan you will understand two things immediately.  1) Climbing is his life and 2)  Getting Home Safe is the only option.  Being a climber though–being on that mountain sometimes plays havoc with your instincts.

These guys sometimes put in years of training for just one climb.  Alan has put in years of training, definately has the experience to know when to say when–yet even at that point, it is a very hard decision.  I encourage all of you to check out his personal report of this expedition–this is as real as it gets and Alan puts it into words perfectly..( Click Alan’s Denali 2007 Report).Now on with the story..

Alan was airlifted by helicopter off of Denali and then taken to a nearby hospital.  The Doctors were baffled as to what Alan’s problem could be.  The next couple of days seen Alan return back to his home in Colorado and a much anticipated reunion with his wife.

At this current time, Alan has updated me that he is now feeling about 90%.  He is awaiting a meeting with his specialist and nutritionist to see if they might know what went wrong.  Does this problem slow Alan down though?  Not one bit.

He recently emailed me a few images of a climb–that is right–a climb that he has done since returning back from Denali.  He took on his local Long’s Peak in Colorado.  I am sure that this was both for the physical workout as well as the mental workout after suffering such a scary momment a week earlier, and at     14, 256 feet, Long’s Peak provided just what Alan needed..  This trip went well for Alan and he says that his training schedule is moving forward as planned. 

Alan’s next stop will be the Himalayan monster peak of Shisha Pangma.  Standing at 26, 335 feet tall, it is the world’s 14th largest peak.  Alan will be heading to Tibet at the Beginning of September for this journey, with a preliminary summit date of October 8.

Alan’s crusade back to Mt. Everest has been inspired by his cause to help raise awareness for Alzheimer’s Research.  This is a very personal cause to Alan, as well as alot of us, as this disease has touched so many lives.  Unless you have been there, you just don’t know.  And if you have experienced this disease in your own family, friends, and associates–then perhaps you would like to give Alan a hand in his quest.  You may do so by making a donation through the following link.

We are all glad to hear that Alan is doing well.  I will be bringing you updates as his Quest for Everest in the name of Alzheimer’s Research picks up throughout 2007.  If you would like to visit Alan’s own website which includes his own updates, as well as a Climber’s Forum, by all means stop over and let him know I sent ya.  You may do so by clicking Alan Arnette.

(Editor’s Note:  The Images in this article are the Property of Alan Arnette and represent his 2007 Long’s Peak Climb.  Alan has granted me special permission to publish these images, but they may not be republished without contacting Alan Arnette for permission.)  J. Alan Hendricks, Editor