Alan Arnette Makes First Live Broadcast Enroute to Shisha Pangma

My good friend Alan Arnette has made his first live broadcast and posted it to his site today.  Alan is currently traveling from Lhasa, Tibet to Basecamp of Shisha Pangma–the world’s 14th tallest peak.

After listening to what Alan had to say, it makes me wonder why he is not a Professional speaker.  He really puts you in the mood and brings you right along to Tibet with him…Potholes and all.

I do reccomend if you have never checked out a live broadcast from an expedition, to head on over and check this one out.  It will show you a bit of what can be done with today’s technology.  Pay particular attention to his “Tibetan Restraunt Review”  Very interesting to say the least.

 

This is Alan’s second major test before heading to Mt. Everest in 2008.  Earlier this year, Alan traveled to Denali..and now he is off to Shisha Pangma for his biggest test yet.  He is climbing with Project Himalaya.

Please note that Alan is climbing strictly for charities sake.  His cause, to help in Alzheimer’s research.  Stop by his site, check out the new audio podcast–then if you want to help, make a small donation.  You may do so by following this link:

Alan Arnette Arrives In Kathmandu!!

 

My good friend Alan Arnette has posted his first dispatch from Kathmandu today.  Many of you will know that Alan is currently off preparing to climb the world’s 14th highest peak, Shisha Pangma. 

Shisha Pangma will be Alan’s second major step in his efforts to land back at Mt. Everest in 2008.  Earlier this year, Alan went to Denali where a slight health concern forced him to abort his attempt.  After confering with doctors and getting the green light to continue his climbing, Alan subsequently climbed 12 of Colorado’s 14,000 ft. peaks.  Now, it is off to Shisha Pangma in the Himalayas.

From Alan’s dispatch today in Kathmandu:

Kathmandu! What a city. After leaving Colorado early Thursday morning, I finally arrived in this wonderful city. Nothing has changed. The last time I was here was in 2003 for Everest. The arrival at the airport was what I expected - organized chaos.

From there, Alan goes into detail of finding his luggage, trying to figure out what time it is in Kathmandu, and finally meeting up with his Project Himalaya teammates.  It sounds like Alan is glad to be back in Kathmandu, even though not much has changed since Alan was last there in 2003 while attempting Everest for the second time.

Alan has sent back a few nice pictures of the scene outside the airport in Kathmandu.  He is also promising to try his hand at a little videography while he is on this expedition.  Alan will be trying to post daily reports of his trip to Shisha Pangma–before, during, and after his attempt at the 14th tallest peak in the world.

Remember that Alan is climbing solely for charity.  That is the whole reason he decided to try to head back to Everest in 2008.  His mission is trying to raise money for Alzheimer’s Research.  100% of all money donated to Alan’s charitable cause will be going to this effort. 

If you would enjoy following along with Alan as he makes this attempt on Shisha Pangma, you may do so by following this link to Alan Arnette’s Shisha Pangma Expedition.  I will also be posting coverage as this climb progresses.  If you are feeling a bit geneerous, perhaps you could even help Alan with his cause by making a donation at the following link.  I know Alan would appreciate all of the help and support he can get.

Climb On My Friend and have a safe journey!  We are all watching!

Alan Arnette: Shisha Pangma A Go!

My good friend Alan Arnette has either already left or is preparing to leave for his next goal:  Shisha Pangma.

Many of you that read this blog quite regularly are already familiar with Alan.  I have made quite a few posts concerning him here on The Adventurist and will be making quite a few more in the future.

Earlier this year–actually during the 2007 Mt. Everest climbing season–Alan Arnette announced that he was going to try to back to to Mt. Everest for a third time in the Spring of 2008.  Two previous attempts at the World’s Highest Summit had to be aborted when Alan became ill.  He has yet to reach his summit…

Alan’s journey back to Mt. Everest began shortly after his announcement.  His first big step would be Denali–North America’s highest peak.  Alan climbed strong and hard clear up to the end–the end not being the summit, but a rather mysterious stomach ailment that forced him to abort his attempt, as well as get his first hand view of a high-altitude rescue on Denali. Read more

Alan Arnette’s Mystery on Denali

My good friend Alan Arnette has a story that has been well-featured on the front page of the SummitPost site.  “Mystery on Denali” is Alan’s take on his recent trip to the highest peak in North America and the troubles that ensued..

Most of my readers will already know of this story as I done quite a bit of coverage as Alan was embarked on this expedition.  Other’s of you may want to head on over to either SummitPost or Alan’s Personal Site to find out what all the mystery is about..

Remember, Alan has began a true test of will and spirit–mind and body.  In 2008, Alan is hoping to go for the peak of the world’s tallest mountain Mt. Everest, for a third time.  Health has turned him back twice…but Alan has a way of picking himself back up and trying again.

Alan is doing all of this in the name of his charity.  He pockets no money.  All money will be sent to aid in Alzheimer’s Research.  You may also find out more on all of this over at Alan’s site as well.

I do want to add that Alan emailed me recently and told me that his problems have pretty much come out fine.  After conferring with numerous doctors and specialists over the past month, he has been given a clean bill of health…as well as a clean bill for the cash he owes them..haha.  We wish Alan the best of luck here at The Adventurist, and we will be following along in 3 weeks as Alan begins his journey to Shisha Pangma..the world’s 14th tallest peak, for stage two of this amazing adventure.

Alan Arnette: Lessons From Denali

My good friend Alan Arnette has made a new post on his site regarding his recent attempt on Denali.

If you will remember, Alan ended up suffering from an unknown stomach issue and had to be medi-vaced off Denali.

The good news is that Alan is doing better now, the bad news is that he is still unsure of what exactly happened….AND he is leaving for an expedition to Shisha Pangma in 5 weeks, the world’s 14th tallest peak.

Alan is definately pushing himself to the limits.  All of this is in hopes of getting back to Mt. Everest for a third attempt on the world’s highest peak in 2008.  His previous two attempts have ended early due to high altitude health issues, but he is hoping his third will finally land him on the top of this elusive peak..

Alan’s first major step was his recent trip to Denali–that ended rather mysteriously.  Stage two will now take him to Shisha Pangma.

Alan has been confering with his doctors and specialists about what might have happened on Denali, and still, no answers have been straight forward.  He is hoping that it was a one time deal and that all is well now.

Alan is climbing to benefit Alzheimer’s Research, a very personal mission on Alan’s behalf, and one I think alot of us can relate to.  If you would like to help support Alan’s project of getting back to Everest, he would like for you to make a small (actually he would prefer a very, VERY LARGE-haha) donation to:

Once more, Alan has all the funding he needs for his expedition and 100% of the proceeds to this fund will directly benefit Alzheimer’s Research.

If you would like to read Alan’s latest post about his thoughts looking back on Denali as well as his recent research into his health issues, as well as some very beautiful photos, please stop by his site and read this POST.

K2 Summits, New Route on Gasherbrum II, and more..

Over the past week most of my time has been used covering the recent Michael Reardon tragedy.  This is not to say that nothing was happening though, but I felt that I had the opportunity to do something for Michael and his family and friends that other sites just couldn’t do.

To get back up to pace, I will be offering a synopsis of what has been going around in the headlines.  So let’s jump right in…

Avalanche on Gasherbrum II

On July 19, a massive avalanche was reported from Gasherbrum II.  The Amical Team, hoping for a summit push, was suddenly buried in snow.  One member died in this tragic incident, another member was unable to be located, and the rest of the team suffered various degrees on injury.

Hirotaki Takeuchi, a member of the devestated Amical team, reported in to ExplorersWeb about the incident saying that the group got swept up in the avalanche and carried down 300 meters to the seracs. 

Other teams on GII soon went up and helped in a massive search and rescue which resulted in Hirotaki and others being able to survive this ordeal.  Much credit is given to these teams in their efforts for this rescue between Camps 2 & 3 on Gasherbrum II.

Italians Summit Gasherbrum II, Establish New Route

Karl Unterkircher, Daniele Bernasconi, and Michele Compagnoni made alpine history today as they successfully summited Gasherbrum II via a new route–The North Face.

The team had been climbing for the past three days, and began a successful push for the summit a bit earlier today.  This is great news following the tragedy on GII earlier this week with the Amical Team.

For more on this story, please stop by The Adventure Blog for more information.

Massive Summits on K2 Today

Around 3:30 Pm today reports started circulating that the first team to reach K2’s summit this season had arrived.  That was just the beginning though…17 more climbers would soon top out on what many people claim as the world’s deadliest mountain.

Over the years, K2 has had a total of 269 summits.  That is right, 269.  In Comparison, Mt. Everest, the world’s highest peak as well as most publicised, had well over 500 summits….this year alone.  K2 has also claimed the lives of 69 people in the process, giving it a death-to-success ratio of 24%.  One in four have died trying to bag this coveted peak.

For more on the list of successful K2 summiters today, I will refer you to ExplorersWeb for the complete story.

On a sad note, a yet unnamed Sherpa took a tragic fall and perished during today’s activities.  The Sherpa, who was working with the Korean Men’s Team, slipped and began to fall.  Two climber’s close to him tried to grab him as he came by, but they were unsuccessful in their attempt.  More details on this tragic incident will be expected in the coming days.

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

BREAKING NEWS UPDATE: Body of Christine Boskoff Found

In December of 2006, two high profile climbers Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler went missing in the Sechuan Province of China.

The subsequent news of this event shook the climbing community to it’s foundation.  At the time in December 2006, much of the world was focused on three lost climbers on Mt. Hood in Oregon and the ensuing Rescue mission that eventually turned into a Recovery.

Charlie Fowler, a world reknown climber and photographer, along with Christine Boskoff, a World class climber in her own right and subsequent owner of Mountain Madness, one of the world’s leading mountain expedition companies,  set out to claim some unchartered peaks in China.  A vacation they had been planning on for two years.

The two soon dissappeared and an all out search effort ensued in China with little media coverage.

On December 29, 2006 Charlie Fowler’s body was found on Genyen Peak, but there were no signs of Christine.

On January 2, 2007 the search for Christine Boskoff was essentially called off with her being presumed dead.

On July 8th 2007, Everest is Ours, A Blog discussing Mt. Everest and the Climbing world made a post about the continued search for Christine Boskoff.  You may find that HERE.

Also this month Climbing Magazine, which I am a subscriber also ran a story about Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler and the continued efforts to find Christine.

Today it is being reported by Mountain Madness President Mark Gunlogson that Christine Boskoff’s Body has been found near where Charlie Fowler’s was found last December.

Here is Mountain Madness’ Complete Press Release:

SEATTLE July 9, 2007 – The body of accomplished US climber Christine Boskoff was found in the mountains of southern China on July 3rd, local China time.  The search and recovery team supported by Mountain Madness, the Seattle-based adventure guide company owned by Boskoff, resumed their search for Boskoff last May on the remote mountain peak of Genyan Massif in Sichuan Province. 

Last November, Boskoff and her climbing partner Charlie Fowler, also a renowned high-altitude mountain climber, were on a personal climbing expedition in Sichuan Province when the pair failed to return to the U.S.  Fowler’s body was recovered on December 27th, and search crews ceased their efforts to search and recover Boskoff until the spring due to winter weather.  Both are believed to have died in an avalanche.

“We resumed the search and recovery efforts for Chris once the weather improved and rock fall hazards lessened,” said Mark Gunlogson, president of Mountain Madness.  “This latest news brings closure to what was a great loss for her family, friends, Mountain Madness and the climbing community.  Chris lived life to the fullest and she died doing what she loved best in one of her most favorite places to climb.” 

“Chris established a legacy as one of the most successful female high altitude mountaineers in history, having climbed six 8,000 meter peaks including two successful ascents of Everest. She brought her tremendous climbing experience, unique humility for someone so accomplished, and love of the mountains to Mountain Madness and its many clients where she built one of the world’s foremost climbing organizations. We will miss her enthusiasm and infectious smile, but will continue to draw upon her spirit as we move forward,” said David C. Jones, Mountain Madness board member. 

A memorial fund to benefit Room to Read has been set up in Boskoff’s name to benefit school children in Nepal.  Boskoff was a former board member of the non-profit organization that helps establish schools, libraries and other educational infrastructures in developing countries.  Room to Read is building a school in Nepal in Boskoff’s honor.  Donations to the Boskoff memorial fund, as well as surplus funds from the Boskoff-Fowler search and recovery fund, will go to support the school in Nepal and scholarships for girls throughout the country.

“She was passionate about climbing and her love of the people and the cultures she traveled to, especially the children of Nepal and we’re honored to be a part of this lasting memorial for Chris,” said John Wood, founder and chief executive officer of Room to Read.  “She was selfless in pursuit of our mission and passionate in her belief that children throughout the developing world should have access to great schools, teachers, libraries and books.”

To support the Boskoff memorial fund donations can be made at www.roomtoread.com or by sending a check to: 

Room to Read – Mountain Madness Appeal
The Presidio
PO Box 29127
San Francisco, CA 94129

About Mountain Madness:
Founded in 1984, Mountain Madness is an adventure guide travel service and mountaineering school based in Seattle, Washington.  The company provides adventure-guided expeditions in Africa, Antarctica, Asia, Europe, North America, South America and Oceania, as well as courses in rock climbing, avalanche and skiing.  For more info: www.mountainmadness.com

Contact:
Mark Gunlogson
Mountain Madness
206-937-8389
markg@mountainmadness.com

(Editor’s Note:  This article was compiled from information obtained from the following sources:  The Adventure Blog, the Everest is Ours Blog, and the MountainMadness Website as well as information contained here in The Adventurist.)

If you would like to catch up on the search for Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler, you may do so by clicking the following link for The Adventurist’s full coverage.

Free Climbing Everest’s Second Step: Controversy of Historical Proportions

The Background 

In 2007 a special expedition was undertaken to climb Mt. Everest in the same fashion–literally–as George Mallory and Andrew Irvine did in 1924.  This expedition was being led by Conrad Anker, the famous discoverer of George Mallory’s body on Everest in 1999.

For those of you not up to date on your Everest history, Mallory and Irvine perished on their fateful attempt to summit Mt. Everest leaving a slew of mystery in the wake of that fateful day in 1924.  Mallory and Irvine were close.  Real close, as a matter of fact, to becoming the first people to ever step foot upon Everest’s summit.

With the discovery of George Mallory’s body in 1999, more interest in Mallory and Irvine’s Expedition in 1924 has caught wind.  Did they summit or didn’t they?  There is perhaps one piece of evidence that could put this mystery to rest…yet it has never been found.  The Camera.  Mallory and Irvine carried a camera with them on their expedition.  It has led many to discuss the merits of the discovery of this holiest of Mt. Everest grails.  After 80 years in the blistering cold of Mt. Everest, could this camera inevitably hold the photos that would put this controversy to rest?  No one knows.

The Expedition

Conrad Anker set his sights on mounting an Expedition using the same equipment and clothing used in 1924 to see if a summit of the world’s tallest peak was actually plausible in 1924.  His attempt would be documented and filmed for a documentary and take place after the 2007 Everest season was essentially over.  This strategy basically would leave the slopes of Everest as they were in 1924–bare. 

Conrad Anker enlisted the help of a high-altitude newcomer named Leo Holding.  Leo Holding would be taking the role of ‘Sandy’ Irvine, where Anker would be climbing as George Mallory for their documentary.

Their climb began great but soon it became evident that their clothing and equipment could not stand up to the bitter cold and elements seen on Mt. Everest.  Anker and Holding had no other choice but to switch to their “High-Tech” climbing gear.

This in and of itself would lead many to believe that Mallory and Irvine would have been in deep trouble way before the summit, but there was still another interesting point to be made with this Expedition.

The Second Step

In order to recreate the Mallory and Irvine Expediton it was decided early on to climb without using “fixed lines”.  Anker and Holding would have no safety net.  This included  going over an area called “The Second Step”, without the use of ladders that were currently in place to allow climbers easier access of this treacherously steep part of the mountain.

Mallory and Irvine would have had to do the same, relying only on their equipment in hand and their sheer will to traverse this difficult area.  Could it be done?

The Controversy Brews

Conrad Anker and Leo Holding were successful in navigating the Second Step.  Within a matter of days news began to circulate that Conrad Anker and Leo Holding had done what seemingly no others had done before them.  Climbed the Second Step without support.

Miss Elizabeth Hawley, the famed Everest Expediton Recorder and Journalist seemingly stated that this feat had not been done since a Chinese Expediton in the 1960’s.

Kraig, from The Adventure Blog, was the first to notice some discrepencies coming in the reporting.  ExplorersWeb posted an article the same day mentioning:

Earlier today, Pete Poston reminded how Theo Fritsche had free-climbed the Step back in 2001, without supplementary O2. Poston based the information on interviews by Austrian Jochen Hemmleb.

In an email to ExWeb today Jochen also mentions a previous free-climb of the infamous rocky outcrop, achieved in full-monsoon conditions and w/o O2 by Spaniard Oscar Cadiach.

The Adventure Blog questioned ExplorersWeb on this issue, which in turn made it a very public issue with many people from the climbing community chiming in.

Why Is this Issue Important?

Facts on Mt. Everest have the tendency to get blurred, scrutinized, and even changed.  This is not something that is new.  Climbers are very often in the position with few others around to back their stories.

All we have to go on is the history that has been placed before us.  Mt. Everest is a place like few others.  Many people try to make their own mark on Mt. Everest every year by being the first…the fastest…the highest…

Without proper dialogue and questioning of facts, Mt. Everest becomes a very tough place to follow along with.  In keeping with the true spirit of Everest it is essential that these facts be researched and laid out before becoming a public vocal point for the “Prove you right or wrong” crowd.

Miss Elizabeth Hawley and ExplorersWeb are very much two of the top news sources for the climbing community.  Each of them are well respected for their Integrity and News Reporting, yet over this issue they had conflicting reports that were essentially being given to the public at a cost that arose doubt within the historic confines of Mt. Everest and the public that finds this of interest.

Kraig at The Adventure Blog done a fantastic job of reporting on this difference of historic opinions, representing both sides to it’s fullest extent and staying with this story as it developed.  If you would like to read his full coverage and see where it leads, check out his June Archives for 2007.

Alan Arnette’s Denali Health Scare and Update

We have all been following along with my good friend Alan Arnette and his year long effort that will hopefully land him back on Mt. Everest for a third time.

This past week Alan was doing a “training” climb on Mt. Denali, North America’s tallest peak.  He seen this as a stepping stone to his eventual goal–but the stepping stone decided to give Alan a run for his money, as we will see.

From Alan Arnette’s Post:

We climbed higher and soon I could see the top of the headwall at 16,100’. I was feeling strong, comfortable and confident. Actually I was enjoying the climb and feeling secure - then it happened.  

A hit to my stomach that took my breath away. I stopped in my tracks bringing my rope to an abrupt halt. I bent over to catch my breath. What the Fu*K? I asked myself.

I pushed as I consider what was happening. Was I drinking enough? I had a liter at breakfast and another half at the break. Eaten enough? Cream of wheat for breakfast and a Cliff Bar an hour ago. Warm enough? Yup, needed to zip down to stay cool and was comfortable. OK, covered the basics, what else. I felt like I had diarrhea. What had I eaten… the same as the others. So, probably no food problem including food poisoning.

Needless to say, the next few hours seen Alan getting worse.  His condition had deteriorated to the point where Medical Evacuation from Denali was intitiated.

To speak with Alan you will understand two things immediately.  1) Climbing is his life and 2)  Getting Home Safe is the only option.  Being a climber though–being on that mountain sometimes plays havoc with your instincts.

These guys sometimes put in years of training for just one climb.  Alan has put in years of training, definately has the experience to know when to say when–yet even at that point, it is a very hard decision.  I encourage all of you to check out his personal report of this expedition–this is as real as it gets and Alan puts it into words perfectly..( Click Alan’s Denali 2007 Report).Now on with the story..

Alan was airlifted by helicopter off of Denali and then taken to a nearby hospital.  The Doctors were baffled as to what Alan’s problem could be.  The next couple of days seen Alan return back to his home in Colorado and a much anticipated reunion with his wife.

At this current time, Alan has updated me that he is now feeling about 90%.  He is awaiting a meeting with his specialist and nutritionist to see if they might know what went wrong.  Does this problem slow Alan down though?  Not one bit.

He recently emailed me a few images of a climb–that is right–a climb that he has done since returning back from Denali.  He took on his local Long’s Peak in Colorado.  I am sure that this was both for the physical workout as well as the mental workout after suffering such a scary momment a week earlier, and at     14, 256 feet, Long’s Peak provided just what Alan needed..  This trip went well for Alan and he says that his training schedule is moving forward as planned. 

Alan’s next stop will be the Himalayan monster peak of Shisha Pangma.  Standing at 26, 335 feet tall, it is the world’s 14th largest peak.  Alan will be heading to Tibet at the Beginning of September for this journey, with a preliminary summit date of October 8.

Alan’s crusade back to Mt. Everest has been inspired by his cause to help raise awareness for Alzheimer’s Research.  This is a very personal cause to Alan, as well as alot of us, as this disease has touched so many lives.  Unless you have been there, you just don’t know.  And if you have experienced this disease in your own family, friends, and associates–then perhaps you would like to give Alan a hand in his quest.  You may do so by making a donation through the following link.

We are all glad to hear that Alan is doing well.  I will be bringing you updates as his Quest for Everest in the name of Alzheimer’s Research picks up throughout 2007.  If you would like to visit Alan’s own website which includes his own updates, as well as a Climber’s Forum, by all means stop over and let him know I sent ya.  You may do so by clicking Alan Arnette.

(Editor’s Note:  The Images in this article are the Property of Alan Arnette and represent his 2007 Long’s Peak Climb.  Alan has granted me special permission to publish these images, but they may not be republished without contacting Alan Arnette for permission.)  J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

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