Harassment on the High Peak: When an Everest Guide Does You Wrong

For many of us, coming up with the $40-50,000 to take a once in a lifetime gamble on Mt. Everest seems like a lifetime away.  What if you spent that kind of cash only to be told that you weren’t climbing?  What if you spent that kind of cash, the guide tells you “No Go”, then deliberately grabs your belongings and scatters them throughout camp?  While he is at it, he might as well do it in front of not only your team, but a film crew to boot and show the whole world how worthless you really are..

This is the news coming from Betsy Huelskamp.  Many of you may remember Betsy as the tough and rugged mountain climbing biker chic that began an Expedition this year with Russell Brice’s Himex Team.  If any of you followed the Expedition’s climbing blogs on Everest this season, then you would have probably thought of Betsy as Himex did:  slow, didn’t know anything about mountaineering–including how to put her crampons on…as well as a bit self-involved.

Well, Betsy has decided to fight back.  The picture she paints is quite different than what Himex would have you believe.  She breaks down everything from the beginning stages where she first contacted Russell Brice about joining the expedition, and Russell seemingly accepts at a reduced rate of nearly 50%–to the final decision to not let her go for the summit push, and the subsequent temper tantram that ensued and left Betsy’s belongings scattered throughout the camp.

If this sounds like odd behavior coming from a guide on Mt. Everest, then perhaps you should reevaluate who you align yourself up with for that big Everest Adventure. Read more

Conrad Anker and Apa Sherpa Joining Forces?

Conrad Anker, the man who became world famous for discovering George Mallory’s body on Mt. Everest, will be teaming up with his wife and Apa Sherpa to host a special “An Everest Evening.”  This event, scheduled for August 9th will take place in Snowbird, Utah.

Apa Sherpa, who holds the record for climbing Mt. Everest the most times, 17, will be discussing his recent success with the SuperSherpas Expedition this year.  Conrad Anker will also be talking about his own success on Everest this year as a part of his reenactment of the 1924 Everest Expedition of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine.

The two have decided to come together to support The Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation (ALCF).  The ALCF is holding the fundraiser to bring attention to the high-altitude workers of Nepal as well as raising money for the Khumbu Climbing School.

Presentations and slide shows of both previously mentioned expeditions will be taking place, as well as a few more surpise speakers.  The ALCF will also be holding a charitable silent auction.  Up for bids will be a donated Grivel wood ice ax signed by all Everest summiters in attendence.

This event will take place at the Cliff Lodge in Snowbird, Utah on August 9th, with things kicking off around 6:30 pm.  Tickets for this event will be $50 a piece.  For information, reservations, or tickets, you may call (800) 933-2147.

This looks to be a great event with alot of big names in Everest history taking part–and besides that, it is for a great cause.  If you are going to be in the Utah area the week of the 9th, why not take a sidetrip to Snowbird?

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

Free Climbing Everest’s Second Step: Controversy of Historical Proportions

The Background 

In 2007 a special expedition was undertaken to climb Mt. Everest in the same fashion–literally–as George Mallory and Andrew Irvine did in 1924.  This expedition was being led by Conrad Anker, the famous discoverer of George Mallory’s body on Everest in 1999.

For those of you not up to date on your Everest history, Mallory and Irvine perished on their fateful attempt to summit Mt. Everest leaving a slew of mystery in the wake of that fateful day in 1924.  Mallory and Irvine were close.  Real close, as a matter of fact, to becoming the first people to ever step foot upon Everest’s summit.

With the discovery of George Mallory’s body in 1999, more interest in Mallory and Irvine’s Expedition in 1924 has caught wind.  Did they summit or didn’t they?  There is perhaps one piece of evidence that could put this mystery to rest…yet it has never been found.  The Camera.  Mallory and Irvine carried a camera with them on their expedition.  It has led many to discuss the merits of the discovery of this holiest of Mt. Everest grails.  After 80 years in the blistering cold of Mt. Everest, could this camera inevitably hold the photos that would put this controversy to rest?  No one knows.

The Expedition

Conrad Anker set his sights on mounting an Expedition using the same equipment and clothing used in 1924 to see if a summit of the world’s tallest peak was actually plausible in 1924.  His attempt would be documented and filmed for a documentary and take place after the 2007 Everest season was essentially over.  This strategy basically would leave the slopes of Everest as they were in 1924–bare. 

Conrad Anker enlisted the help of a high-altitude newcomer named Leo Holding.  Leo Holding would be taking the role of ‘Sandy’ Irvine, where Anker would be climbing as George Mallory for their documentary.

Their climb began great but soon it became evident that their clothing and equipment could not stand up to the bitter cold and elements seen on Mt. Everest.  Anker and Holding had no other choice but to switch to their “High-Tech” climbing gear.

This in and of itself would lead many to believe that Mallory and Irvine would have been in deep trouble way before the summit, but there was still another interesting point to be made with this Expedition.

The Second Step

In order to recreate the Mallory and Irvine Expediton it was decided early on to climb without using “fixed lines”.  Anker and Holding would have no safety net.  This included  going over an area called “The Second Step”, without the use of ladders that were currently in place to allow climbers easier access of this treacherously steep part of the mountain.

Mallory and Irvine would have had to do the same, relying only on their equipment in hand and their sheer will to traverse this difficult area.  Could it be done?

The Controversy Brews

Conrad Anker and Leo Holding were successful in navigating the Second Step.  Within a matter of days news began to circulate that Conrad Anker and Leo Holding had done what seemingly no others had done before them.  Climbed the Second Step without support.

Miss Elizabeth Hawley, the famed Everest Expediton Recorder and Journalist seemingly stated that this feat had not been done since a Chinese Expediton in the 1960’s.

Kraig, from The Adventure Blog, was the first to notice some discrepencies coming in the reporting.  ExplorersWeb posted an article the same day mentioning:

Earlier today, Pete Poston reminded how Theo Fritsche had free-climbed the Step back in 2001, without supplementary O2. Poston based the information on interviews by Austrian Jochen Hemmleb.

In an email to ExWeb today Jochen also mentions a previous free-climb of the infamous rocky outcrop, achieved in full-monsoon conditions and w/o O2 by Spaniard Oscar Cadiach.

The Adventure Blog questioned ExplorersWeb on this issue, which in turn made it a very public issue with many people from the climbing community chiming in.

Why Is this Issue Important?

Facts on Mt. Everest have the tendency to get blurred, scrutinized, and even changed.  This is not something that is new.  Climbers are very often in the position with few others around to back their stories.

All we have to go on is the history that has been placed before us.  Mt. Everest is a place like few others.  Many people try to make their own mark on Mt. Everest every year by being the first…the fastest…the highest…

Without proper dialogue and questioning of facts, Mt. Everest becomes a very tough place to follow along with.  In keeping with the true spirit of Everest it is essential that these facts be researched and laid out before becoming a public vocal point for the “Prove you right or wrong” crowd.

Miss Elizabeth Hawley and ExplorersWeb are very much two of the top news sources for the climbing community.  Each of them are well respected for their Integrity and News Reporting, yet over this issue they had conflicting reports that were essentially being given to the public at a cost that arose doubt within the historic confines of Mt. Everest and the public that finds this of interest.

Kraig at The Adventure Blog done a fantastic job of reporting on this difference of historic opinions, representing both sides to it’s fullest extent and staying with this story as it developed.  If you would like to read his full coverage and see where it leads, check out his June Archives for 2007.

$5000 Charge for Wilderness Rescue Ignites Debate–Again.

A Kansas man has been billed $5000 for a wilderness rescue after he injured his ankle while hiking along a steep hillside.

This debate has been raging for well over a year now–whether or not people in the wilderness, when accidents happen, should be liable to pay for their rescue.

Kansas is only one of a number of states who have been looking in to billing people that have come to need a rescue involving local authorities.  Colorado also has a similar law in place and one is also currently making the rounds in Utah.

The great Blog, Two-Heel Drive ran by Tom Mangan, tipped me off to the forementioned article featured in the June 18th issue of Rocky Mountain News discussing this incident, as well as the debate raging in Kansas.  You may read the whole article HERE.

As far as Colorado is concerned, there has recently been news that another individual will be billed $7500 for his subsequent rescue as well.

This is reigniting a big debate amongst outdoor enthusiasts.  Should they be charged or shouldn’t they?  I have already expressed my own opinion on this matter as it pertains to climbers needing rescued–(please see story posted HERE, for my opinion.)  How much is to much?

Alot of us go out and try to enjoy the peace and solitude of the outdoors for 1) it is great exercise, 2) it gets you away from the hustle and bustle of cities…and PEOPLE, and 3) It is alot cheaper to walk a trail then drive a car.

If all of us ran the risk of having to pay $7500 for rescue after a badly twisted ankle PLUS our own medical bills, would we still be outdoors?

Alot of the previous debate over this issue has occured mainly over climbers getting stranded high on mountains, as in the two incidents that have occured in the past year on Mt. Hood. More and more though, we as individuals are seeing this pop up for some things that seem–dare I say mundane?

I think the political motivation behind this issue has jumped from saving lives to making money, and in a sense, infringing upon our own freedoms to explore nature and the outdoors.

Perhaps a few people have taken advantage of the system.  Perhaps a few have ended up where they never should have been in the first place without the experience or guidance they needed to be there.  Is this a reason to Pigeonhole a whole section of the American population? Instead of going out to “Get Away From It All”, that “All” is slowly trying to step in and even take away the essence of being out there.

Read more

Free-Climbing the Second Step: A New Controversy Brewing..

In the past two weeks, numerous reports of Conrad Anker and Leo Haulding’s, successful summit of Everest have been reported.

Many of you will know that Conrad Anker and Leo Haulding set out a couple weeks ago to try to prove that George Mallory could have successfully summited Mt. Everest, by doing it themselves in equipment that would have been used in Mallory’s day–although made more recent.

Their findings are being reported two different ways.  The first, is that they were successful…the second is that they had to put aside the look-alike 1920’s equipment and make their final push in high tech gear of today.  To be honest, this would lead you to believe that Mallory and Irvine couldn’t have summited in the gear that they had.

Another controversy has seemed to have erupted recently over Conrad Anker and Leo Haulding’s subsequent free-climb up the Second Step.  The two, in order to do it as Mallory and Irvine, removed the ladder ascending the Second Step and decided to free climb it.  Many people, including Elizabeth Hawley, the Mt. Everest Expeditions local historian and news source, seem to be confused on the merits of free climbing the second step…

The Adventure Blog has posted a nice piece on whether this was the first free climb ever, the first one since the 1960’s as Elizabeth Hawley claims, or just another one that has fallen into the cracks of misreporting.  ExplorersWeb contends that there are actually a few people who have done this on the Second Step and that Anker and Haulding are just the most recent.

We all know it isn’t done often.  More people go for the much easier and safer, by using the ladder, but the controversy arises in part, by a message left by The Altitude Everest Team claiming that this was a true first.  No matter how it plays out–it is very unlikely this is a true first as way more than one source agrees that it has been done at least once before and possibly numerous times.

I credit Kraig over at The Adventure Blog for this fine piece of investigative reporting–I will be watching to see if he can come up with some truth and what the facts are surrounding this situation–well done Kraig.  Now go read his fine piece HERE.

The Road to Everest–Literally!

Mt. Everest is set to be getting a new road.  The road, scheduled to begin construction on Monday, is being put in to place by the Chinese in an effort to help with their 2008 plans of summiting Mt. Everest with the famed Olympic Torch. 

This year has already seen the Chinese make a successful practice run of the torch to the summit.

The new road in will allow for a speedier trek to Basecamp for the Chinese as well as many other Expeditions that use this same path to Mt. Everest annually.  The Chinese are predicting a big outpouring of spectators for this event and are trying to rush along the process to ensure it’s success before next years Olympic Games.

The new road, which will run from Tangri County of Xigaze Prefecture at the base of Mt. Everest to Mt. Everest Basecamp–some 108 km, will be placed directly on top of a rough path used by Expedition Companies and climbers to reach Everest Basecamp.  The new road project is expected to take 4 months to build and will come in at a rough cost of $19.7 million.

The new road building project is set to kick off Monday with groundbreaking at Everest Basecamp, some 5, 200 meters above sea level.

The Road will be built complete with blacktop and metal guardrails and should allow much easier access to a place that usually took three days or more to get to, in the past.

Earlier this year rumors started circulating that the Chinese plan to shut down the North Side of Everest next year to Expeditions hoping to try for a summit next spring.  At this time no further word has been given about this situation.

Of interest though would be the expected crowds that this new road might let in to one of the most dangerous mountains in the world.  In 2007, well over 500 people made a successful summit, while 5 died in the process.  It is hard to imagine possibly more crowds in the basecamp area as alot of teams were concerned about them this season…

Also, Tibet, who has been fighting for this territory that China also claims ownership to since the 1950’s, has been highly outspoken in their dissapproval of anything in their country being tied to the Chinese Olympics.  Tibet has been voicing their opinions in highly public protests–one of which led to 5 people being arrested on Mt. Everest this season, against China.

With all of this building up to the 2008 Olympics and the 2008 Everest climbing season in the spring, it will be very interesting to see how this plays out, and if, indeed, the Chinese can pull this off successfully without an International Incident, as Tibet will once again become a huge focus in International circles.

The ChinaView was the source for part of this information after following a link from The Drudge Report.

David Tait on Top of the World–The Photo

David Tait, who I covered extensively throughout this past Mt. Everest season has finally posted a photo of himself on the summit of Mt. Everest on his Everest Expedition Blog.

I had the priviledge of conducting not one, but two exclusive interviews with David–one before his attempt to make the first ever Double-Traverse of Mt. Everest and one after his aborted effort after successfully summiting from the famed North Ridge Route then crossing ver and heading down the South Col.

David’s original plan was to go from the north to the south…rest at South Basecamp for a few days then head back from South to North…a feat many considered suicide in one season and an attempt that has never even been done before.  But as fate would have it, David ended up having to break trail and fix ropes upon reaching the South side to finish his descent on his first attempt.  This process inevitably left David more tired than he had planned, and also allowed him time to rethink why it was that he was trying to do this.

David’s story, is a true revelation into a man’s soul as he fought with himself and ego and eventually decided that his climbing partner deserved all the credit…not himself.

Head on over to his site and check out the cool summit picture–just goes to show that David inevitably kept his one goal in mind.  While your there, feel free to check out his posts as he successfully became the first person from the UK and Europe to make a successful Traverse from Everest North to South.

Let’s not also forget that through David’s efforts this season, The climbers on the south were able to launch their bids for the summit–without him, they may not have had a chance till very late in May.  This was definately an incredible adventure!

Mt. Everest Pioneer, Ernest Hofstetter, Dies at 95

Ernest Hofstetter, a leading member of a Swiss Expedition team that nearly summited one year before Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay made the first successful summit of Mt. Everest in 1953, has died.

Upon Sir Edmund Hillary’s successful summit the following year, Hillary sent the swiss team a note telling them that they had done half of the work for him.

The Swiss Expedition Team, that Ernest Hofstetter was a proud member of, seemingly paved the route that a year later Hillary and Norgay would use to make their summit a success.

For more on the incredible 1952 Swiss Expedition up Mt. Everest, Click Here.

Ernest Hofstetter will be missed by the climbing community world wide and our thoughts and prayers go out to his family and friends.

The Adventurist Sparks a Nerve….Twice…And You Speak Out!

This past week has seen two pretty controversial pieces here at The Adventurist take center stage.  The first one titled “David Sharp HAD to Die” was recently mentioned on ExplorersWeb and has seen well over 2,000 people stopping by to check it out in the past few days alone.

The David Sharp issue continues to be a very hot topic, even a year after this incident took place.  The media and the Climbing Community have been very vocal on their thoughts and concerns over this incident and it seems like everyone has their own opinions.  I figured I would highlight a couple of these opinions that have been shared here on The Adventurist, just to show you a bit of the differing viewpoints taking place:

First, From reader Yolan:

I am still amazed that people have a problem with climbers dying on Everest…..if you plan to take a risk like that, it is a known factor in the whole “picture”. Expecting a Sherpa (or anyone else for that matter) to risk his/her life to save yours, is way out of line….. ethics be damned…cerebral edema may not be a complication that a climber can prepare for, but as a climber, you have to know it is a potential hazzard in the “death zone” (called that for a reason!!) in a situation like and Everest summit attempt, it should be made very clear…. every person for himself!!!

From reader Leon:

It is unfair for members of the public to have such a negative opinion about how climbers are left in the death zone to die because they have never experienced being at that altitude and in such extreme conditions.

When a climber sets foot on a mountain, he or she SHOULD be awear of the dangers and be prepared for the unexpected.

And Lastly, from reader Helen:

Yolan and Leon have missed the central point here - from all reports 40 climbers passed David Sharp on the way UP. 40 still relatively fresh climbers with Os and Dex, 40 climbers with thoughts ONLY of the summit. You’re damn right the “public” have a negative opinion. Most people I talked to at the time (public all) could not imagine why anyone would think being the 431st or so person on top could possibly outweigh saving another “climber”. What story would YOU rather tell back home ? I made it to a summit thats been climbed a thousand times ? Or I saved a life ?

These comments just tip the surface of this great debate, but none the less, it is very interesting to see the different views expressed.

The second piece that seems to be drawing alot of attention is a piece I wrote just a couple of days ago titled “Dave Hahn, Usha Bista, and How The Mainstream Media Bites a Big One“. Read more

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