SummitClimb Tops Out on Ama Dablam!

Dan Mazur, from SummitClimb, is reporting that his team has been summiting the past three days–by the look of things, it seems that Dan’s team is a pretty large one.  They have topped out in three seperate pushes for the summit on three consecutive days.

Push One on October 20th, 2007

Hi this Dan calling from the SummitClimb Ama Dablam Expedition.

Today is the 20th of October. The time is 8:54 p.m. local Nepal time.

I’m calling to inform everyone that our team has returned from the summit to camp 2. All members who attempted to reach the summit and all sherpas have returned to camp 2 safely and I’m going to read the list now. The names are as follows:

• Bjorn
• Elling
• Tag
• Stein
• Lars
• Guy
• Griet
• Nico
• Martina
• Adam
• Jangbu 1
• Jangbu 2
• Henry
• Shera
• Sean
• Eyal
• Logan
• James

The group will be returning to basecamp tomorrow and our second group will move into camp 2 and try for a summit attempt in the next day or so. It is snowing lightly now, so the weather doesn’t look so perfect.

Well it looks as if Dan’s intuition wasn’t “right on” about the weather.  A second team followed, as mentioned, on the 22nd–and they were also successful.  We are still awaiting word on the members of the second team–this might be forthcoming in a few days though, looks like Dan Mazur’s SummitClimb team is pretty busy right now as yesterday it was mentioned that team three is now on their summit push as well–they should top out today if all goes as planned.

Ama Dablam has seemed in a bit of rough shape this season.  If you will remember back about a week or so ago, there was a large avalanche that wiped out a good portion of the fixed ropes and even most of Camp 3–The first summit team has refixed the ropes for the others to follow and Dan congratulates them on this endeavor as well.

Hopefully all will make it as planned, then get back down as soon as possible–I will let you know if Team three makes it a little bit later.  Congratulations go out to the whole SummitClimb team on their successful summits these past few days, but let’s not forget that their are others still heading up!

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

Everest 2007 Update: More Summits, Another Confirmed Death, and News of a New World Record Holder!

Death of Czech Climber, Libor Kozak, Confirmed 

Recent dispatches have been circulating a rumored death on Mt. Everest for the past couple of days.  Today we can positively confirm that this death did take place and did involve a Czech climber.

Libor Kozak, 47, had been climbing on the North Side of Mt. Everest, pushing for the summit when he began to feel bad.  He decided to head back to Camp at 8300 meters in an attempt to get possible help and rest.  Libor Kozak ended up being sicker than what some had thought and ended up dying at this point.

This news was originally posted on an Expedition Update by Alex Abramov and the 7Summits Expedition, but over the next couple of days the story had quieted down.

Two days later, EverestNews made a post saying a confirmation of the death would be coming in, but it never came as they were awaiting word that the family of the climber had been notified of his passing and his name was never released.

CzechClimbing.com Originally made the assumption of who the climber was, based on their information that there was only one Czech Climber climbing from the North this season, Libor Kozak.  On a post to their site, a friend of Libor Kozak’s family confirmed the news and mentioned that the family had been notified. 

A New World’s Youngest 7 Summitter

Samantha Larson, 18, from Long Beach, CA has just become the youngest person in the world to climb the highest mountain on all 7 continents.

She made this new record after summiting Mt. Everest on Thurday with her father, David Larson.  Her record now surpasses the previous record for the youngest 7Summiter held by 20 year old British climber, Rhys Miles Jones.

Samantha Larson began her assault on the 7 Summits record at the Ripe Old Age of 13, when she first reached the summit of South America’s Tallest peak Mt. Aconcagua.  Then the following year she successfully climbed Africa’s tallest Peak, Mt. Kilimanjaro.

Samantha Larson graduated from Long Beach Poly High School last year and amazingly carried a 4.43 Grade point average throughout her high school career.  Upon graduation, Samantha took a year off, in order to climb some of the world’s tallest peaks, before heading off to Stanford University.

Samantha Larson made contact with her Mother,to inform her of the news, after reaching Camp 2 upon her descent.

A Big Congratulations goes out to this young lady from The Adventurist.

The World’s youngest Mt. Everest summiter happens to be a Sherpa who scaled the mountain at the age of 15.

More Summits Today

Alex Abramov’s first group from the 7 Summits Expedition has officially made the summit.  This first wave involved 12 individuals–with a second group currently heading up as well.

Alex Abramov did mention the following news though, and we will have to keep an eye out on this situation:

Only our guide Sergey Kofanov continues to work on the route. . He has found out near to the camp of 8300 meters an Italian climber in very bad condition. As appeared, he has spent two days near the camp of 8300 meters, probably out of tent. Sergey Kofanov has collected small group of rescue: they are two French girls and one Sherpa. They accompany the Italian downwards. In the beginning he could not even move at all and could not speak. Sergey made an injection of deximetazon, then have moved him in a tent, gave him water. In result, Italian climber now can go down on one`s own, but very slowly. We hope, that they can lower him today down to the camp on North Col.

Adventure Consultants Summit 5

Adventure Consultants has announced that 5 members of their team have successfully summited today.  Here is a report from their Expedition as well:

Astounding us with their speed and grace, our climbers reached the summit at 5.00am today, just as the first rays of the sun also arrived. Sherpas Lhakpa Dorjee, Nima Dorjee and Pasang Bhote reached the top first, followed by Mike Roberts and Cedric Hayden, accompanied by cheering on the radio from Basecamp! CONGRATULATIONS GUYS!

Prague Mayor Summits!

Pavel Bem, the mayor from Prague that subsequently was turned away from attempting the North Ridge Route by the Chinese, has successfully summited from the South.  Pavel Bem, climbing with his two personal Sherpas made his successful summit today.

Alan Arnette

Alan Arnette’s magnificent Mt. Everest website has some news of note today.  Actually, two pieces. 

The first involves the female chinese climber that was reportedly killed while trying to ascend Mt. Everest two nights ago. 

The good news is that she is still alive and made it successfully to ABC..and seems to be coming along fine.

The second news of note found on Alan’s site is the story of four Italian Climbers that seemingly got into trouble on Everest and the story that ensued.  I reccommend all of you stopping over and checking out this piece and while you are at it, join Alan’s Climbing Forum dedicated to Mt. Everest and Mountain Climbing in general.  By the way, if you stop by his place, tell him I sent you–

Bear Grylls

The Adventure Blog has posted news of Bear Grylls making his successful flight to the height of Mt. Everest and beyond.  A couple of days ago I posted a piece about an unexpected “encounter” with Bear Grylls by one of the Expedition teams.  You may find this story HERE as well.

Everest 2007 Update: Weather Good or Bad on South Side?

I am hearing mixed reports of the weather on Mt. Everest tonight.  If you have stopped by earlier, than obviously you are aware of the current push to the summit taking place on both the North and South sides–

Right around 50 people summited this morning on the North and more teams on both the North and South Sides are currently heading up..

Bill Burke with SummitClimb is reporting the following:

“The weather has not been cooperating so most of the teams are still at Everest Base Camp. It snowed really hard this afternoon and it is snowing as I send in this report. Our current plan is to start up the mountain on May 18 for our final push to the summit. I understand that there are four teams currently on the South Col and they may make their run for the summit tonight. We are all wishing them well.”

Also, Alan Arnette is reporting that Apa and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, with the SuperSherpa Expedition is also reporting some high winds–upwards of 40 knots towards the summit.

I am sure everyone is watching the weather situation very carefully, as quite a few teams now have members heading up.  I am hoping that the weather holds out and this second group of summiters will make as well as the first group did.

So far no major incidents have occured–maybe we can actually have a “safe” year this time around–pending any weather problems.  Keeping the fingers crossed.

Everest 2007 Update: Mass Exodus For Summit, as Day 2 Summit Push Begins

Day two is shaping up to be busier than today as far as Everest and the push for the summit go.

From the North Side, there will possibly be another 50-60 people attempting the climb up the North Ridge Route, and from the South, many are expecting the same.

Here are the teams to look for:

From the North

The female team of Philipines are sitting at 8300 meters now and are planning their final push tonight.  Also on the North, Cato Pederson, will be planning his “Unarmed” Everest Push has he tries to make a successfull summit attempt after losing both of his arms many years ago.  Other teams:

Manny Pizzaro, SummitClimb (second phase), Scottish Scouts, Nives Meroi and Romana Benet, as well as Kari Kobler to name a few…

From the South Col

Supersherpas, who will be ascending around 9 pm tonight, IMG, Adventure Consultants, Exploradus…all of them are in the works to make an attempt, if not tonight, then definately by morning.

The Weather

As mentioned earlier today, many expeditions and climbers are predicting a small 48 hour window here before bad weather sets back in.  Many teams are trying a scramble for the top, while others are trying to use their “sixth sense” and hope for a better opportunity and hopefully less crowds as well..

It is noted that after David Tait successfully crossed from the North Ridge to The South Col and eventually down to Camp 2–that the teams on the South have been busy, busy.  David was able to break trail and fix the rest of the ropes that the South needed in order to finish their push to the summit.   The South now has plenty of trail to follow and ropes leading their way..

Great job David on making this all possible and jumpstarting the South Summit Push as well..

As Always I will bring you the latest as I hear it.

Everest 2007 Update: Summit Quest is On!

I am guessing that quite a few of my readers are  familiar with Alan Arnette’s great site, as well as Kraig’s over at The Adventure Blog.  Well both of these great sites have mentioned that there just may be a summit attempt in progress, as we speak, taking place on the South side.

Alan Arnette goes in to some speculation as to who or what team this may be.  Through his own speculation, he has ruled out Supersherpas, Exploradus, IMG, SummitClimb, Ice 8000, Mountain Madness, Coleman, and Adventure Consultants.  Those are definates.

Alan goes on to speculate that it could be the very quiet AAI team–who has not been heard from in 5 days–or The London Business School, or perhaps a couple of independents.

Needless to say, I think the London Business School can be ruled out as well after reading this over at Explorers Web:

“Today we sat down for an hour with Kenton in order to discuss the forthcoming weather conditions for the summit,” the team reported. “Having synthesized the information given on several five- and 10-day forecasts, it looks as though there will be good conditions for a summit attempt between May 16 to 19. This would mean a departure from Base Camp to Camp 2 on either May 12 or 13. Nothing is certain, and we will be adjusting our plans accordingly over the next couple of days as the forecasts become more accurate.”

So, who does that leave?  AAI of course, or Alpine Ascents International as most of you will know them as.  AAI’s last post came May 5–at that time they had completed their acclimatization and was currently back at basecamp and awaiting a climbing window.

Another team whom we have heard little from in awhile is the Sky High Team or ScoutsonEverest–their last post came Monday May 7.  Here is what it had to say:

“The Sky High team are spending a few days resting in Deboche ahead of their summit bid.”

No official word yet has came from any team on who this may be making the summit bid.  At this point it is purely speculation.  Most of the guessing began with a report from Dave Hahn, climbing with the IMG team.  Here is that post as well:

“Tonight it is almost 10 o’clock in the evening here in Nepal and already there are two small teams up on the South Col that are trying for the summit tonight, making their way up, and we’re rooting for them and hoping they will be able to fix the remaining rope to the top and break trail if necessary through the deep snow, and keeping our fingers crossed, they are not part of the IMG team but of course anybody making the top on this side right now helps us all. Good to be down here at base camp. Bye now.”

There are two teams.  I personally would not be surpirised to find out that this may be Alpine Ascents–as well as a group of Sherpas to fix the rest of the rope up the South Col.

Alpine Ascents has a group of 15 that could have very well split in to two groups for safety purposes.  We will all have to wait and see how this developes though in the coming hours.

We wish them all the best and hope for a safe journey, successful ascent and even more successful return.

At 6pm. The weather on the Everest summit was  minus 11 degrees with winds at 45 knots.  Could be a rough one–let’s all hope and pray for the best!

Responsibility and Death on Everest: A Response Comes In…

Yesterday I posted an editorial titled “Responsibility and Death on Everest”.  I am not going to go back and rehash what was said, but I will let you click the title and read it for yourselves.

It seems like this issue is drawing some interest here as well as possibly opening up further dicussions in the climbing community.  My good friend Kraig over at “The Adventure Blog” quickly linked up to the story and shared his opinion on the issue I raised on his own site.  I thank him for sharing his personal insight into this discussion.

I have also been contacted by Jake Norton from Mountain World Productions.  Now those of you not familiar with Jake or his incredibly enlightening personal blog are in for a treat!

Here is a little background on Jake.  Jake Norton is an Everest Veteran.  He has been on five seperate expeditions to the world’s highest mountain, including 2 successful summits.  He has also participated in many expeditions all around the Himalayas.  Jake has been a mountain guide since 1993 working with some of the best companies in the business including Rainier Mountaineering and International Mountain Guides (IMG) to name a few.  Jake now spends his time as a professional climber, speaker, and photographer while also maintaining his Blog “The MountainWorld Blog”.

Here is what Jake Norton had to say about “Responsibility and Death on Everest”–

Thanks for your great post, and your excellent articles - lots of great information out here, and it is nice to see good opinion, thoughts, and ideas on Everest and climbing in general in a new format with fresh ideas! (And, thanks for the link to The
MountainWorld Blog!)

As an Everest veteran (5 expeditions, 2 summits, and many other trips to the Himalaya), I had some thoughts to share regarding the expedition leaders on Everest, Russell Brice, etc. Read more

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Sir Edmund Hillary: Your Thoughts, Your Prayers

It is being widely reported today that Sir Edmund Hillary has been injured in a fall.  Sir Hillary was the first person, along with his climbing sherpa Tenzing Norgay, to summit Mt. Everest.  It has been noted that Hillary is not suffering “Life-Threatening” injuries and that his progress is going well.

Hillary is 87 years old and has recently taken up walking with a cane.  It is also being reported that Sir Edmund Hillary has been suffering from High Altitude Sickness for a number of years now.

In due respect for what Sir Edmund Hillary has come to mean and represent in the climbing community, I thought that it would be a good time for all of my loyal readers here at The Adventurist to wish Sir Edmund Hillary the best.  Today we keep you in all of our thoughts and prayers! 

You, the reader, may post your thoughts, prayers, and good wishes upon Sir Edmund Hillary here, as we all come together to wish him a fast recovery

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Everest 2007 Update–April 18, 2007–South Col Route

THE SOUTH COL ROUTE

Casey and Mike from the Coleman Everest Team are reporting in today from Camp 2 on the South side.  Seems like all is well and going according to plans.  They talk about moving from Camp 1  at 19,600 feet to Camp 2 at 21, 300 feet.

“We left before the sun was on us so our hands and feet were very cold for awhile. As soon as the sun hit us we warmed up too much and we felt like we were going to catch on fire. It is either freeze or fry in the mountains. “

Casey and Mike go on to talk about the big difference between Camps 1 & 2—Space.  Camp 2 is not nearly as crowded as the other camps at this point and there is plenty of space to spread out.

Over the next couple of days, the two will be trekking up towards the Lhotse Face.  The Lhotse Face will eventually lead the team to the Summit of Everest…but as they say, “Not Yet.”

Dave from Alpine Ascents is reporting in as well.  His team is still safely at Basecamp, but will begin the acclimatization process in the next day.  They will be making their first assault on the Khumbu Icefall..then on to Camp 1 for two days, then camp 2 for another two.  Speaking of the Icefall, Dave had his first sights of the beast this week and this is what he had to say:

“Yesterday a couple of us headed up to the top of the icefall to check out the route and see how the icefall is faring so far. It is a bit more broken up this season than in the past few making a bit more ciruitous route. “

Paul Adler is reporting that the weather today at Everest Basecamp started out at 6 degrees celsius but gradully moved up to 15 degrees…warm enough for him to take his first “shower” on Everest.  He is also reporting snow for most of the day.

Adventure Consultants has also reached Camp 2 on Everest today.  Once again we are hearing of the cold start..then the unbearably hot trek from Camp 1–pretty intriguing in the Himilayas.

“As far as Everest goes it wasn’t too cold a start this morning from camp one and it was truly pleasant to walk up the Western Cwm. That was until it got unbearably hot anyway! Yes, as hard as it may be to believe, there are days on the lower flanks of Everest where there is no wind due to the protective surrounding massifs of Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest that create a giant solar oven that we must climb through to reach camp two.”

IMG Leader Mark Tucker is reporting that his team of Sherpas have now reached Camp 3.  They have been busy establishing the IMG camp, digging platforms, as well as carrying up some much needed equipment.  Here is what Mark had to say about Camp 3:

“Camp 3 is a very uncomfortable and unpleasant camp — with spindrift commonly sweeping down the Lhotse Face from above and piling up over the tents. Now that the site is established, there is still a lot of chopping and digging necessary to excavate additional tent platforms. These tents will be used by the climbers and the personal sherpas on the next acclimatization rotation, and on the summit bids for an overnight en route to Camp 4 (South Col). The Sherpas generally skip Camp 3 when they go to the Col — they will not stay there if they can avoid it!”

The London Biz School is reporting in that their acclimatization is going rather well.  They ventured up to Camp 2 over the past couple of days, then back down to basecamp for rest.  They had a scary momment at one point though..

“On route a serac collapsed near to our route, reminding us of the dangers that are ever present in the ice fall. “

Pat Hickey is reporting that all is well.  Their Puja Ceremony will be taking place tomorrow which will allow them to move up to the higher Camps on Everest.  Pat did mention that they were spending their time playing cards, boardgames, and watching “The Departed” on DVD.  It is funny how DVD players have become almost an essential on Everest for killing time.  I have also read that “Top Gun” has been played as well..

Well that about wraps up the South Col Route for today.  Seems like everyone one is doing well…fixed lines are now set up to Camp three–the expeditions are on the move and yet still others are taking their time and enjoying everything Everest has to offer this year.  Check back tomorrow for more on the South Col Route climbers.

Cheers-

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The Complete Coverage! Everest 2007!

The Complete Coverage!  Everest 2007!  Click here!

As many of you might know, a couple of months back I mentioned that I would be setting up a Page on The Adventurist for the Everest 2007 Climbing season.

This page will be similar to the page covering the Mt. Hood Tragedy I covered in 2006 offering up all the links and stories as we publish them in one easily located space.

What this does is it allows all of my loyal readers an easier way to follow along with the Everest 2007 season as it happens, as well as lets you keep track of what HAS happened up to the latest story.  At the top of this site, you will now see a headline that reads “The Complete Coverage!  Everest 2007!  Click Here!”, by clicking this, you will now have access to every story concerning the 2007 Everest Climbing season.

I hope you enjoy this convenient way of staying on track with the happenings on Everest this season.  It is really shaping up to be a great season with many stories breaking daily.  You will now find them all here!

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