China vs. Mother Nature: The Quest for Artificial Weather

Who controls the weather?  This debate, in a round about way, has been taking place for centuries.  When the weather was unbearably dry, ancient Indian nations would come together and perform their “Indian Rain Dance” to try to persuade the Gods to open up the skies–

Step ahead a couple of centuries to the present.  A lengthy article in the Asian Times Online goes into detail about how China has been in the process of manufactoring weather since 1958.  No, this isn’t science fiction.

China has seemingly developed a way to not only make it rain when it wants to, but to also control such things as hail storms. If you are still questioning the validity of all of this, The Chinese Government has stated that their methods have already been used to control the weather for such international events as the 1993 East Asian Games and the 1999 Horti-Expo in Yunnan..and next up on the list?  The 2008 Olympic Games to be held in Beijing.

So How Does This All Work?

It would be alot easier to explain that China just hits a button, but actually it is a rather large scientific process.  To bring it down to scope, the basics of the process involves firing rounds of silver oxide ammunition into the clouds.  The weight of the silver oxide will cling to the water in the clouds and bring it back down to the ground.

This is a pretty interesting and scientifically proven method that just happened to be developed by the United States in the 1940’s and 50’s–but we lost interest in this on the belief that Mother Nature usually wins..

China has went on to take this research and expand significantly on what has been known about weather formation.  Each of the Chinese Provinces now has it’s own Artificial Weather Modification Base.  This is all controlled by the Chinese Government and they say when to enact the weather changing science.

The Artificial Weather Modification Department boasts over 32,000 chinese employees, as well as 7,100 anti-aircraft guns, 4,991 special rocket launchers and 30 specially equipped aircraft to help in this process.  This is a large expenditure, but the thoughts behind it’s development can not be taken lightly.  It was original enacted to help with the issue of drought that plagues a big size chunk of China.

There begs to be a couple of questions asked though…Silver-Oxide is a known polutant and poison in large quantities, how will this affect China in the future?  They do mention that the silver oxide they use is in such small quantities to not have an effect on the environment, yet what happens as it builds up over the years?

Another question?  If China can do this, why has this idea not been exported to the likes of Countries in Africa that could definately use this technology for both water and food, which they are currently suffering a major crisis with?

In a way though, this all seems pretty much amazing to me.  If the United States would seemingly begin to use this technology, perhaps we could gain control of the massive wildfire outbreaks in the West, or they could broadcast a report of Artificial Rain on the news and we would all be guaranteed of knowing just when to bring the ol’ umbrella…

What are your thoughts?

[contact-form]

The Adventurist: A Call to All Outdoor Writers and Photographers!

I have just put the finishing touches on a new “Submit & Contact” Page here at The Adventurist.  I am hoping that this new feature will be accepted and used by all of my great readers.

This page goes into detail about a few things I am looking for here at The Adventurist–and ways you might be able to get involved.

Do you love Adventure Writing or perhaps Great Outdoors Photography?–Help me share your incredible talents with a much bigger audience!

Head on Over to the “Submit & Contact” Page, found on a tab right up above this article, and Share your Adventures with the World!

Also, if you are looking to put me to work, there is info there as well….

Cheers-

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

Massive Summit Push For Broad Peak is a Success!!

 

Trying to outrun an approaching storm system on Broad Peak, many climbers combined their efforts yesterday for one final push–landing them on the summit!

The Broad Peak summit was reached at 12:30 pm local time by the “Al Filo” Team and members are now trying to race down the mountain in a speed descent to try to reach Camp 3 before nightfall.

The successful summiters on Broad Peak include:

• Silvio “Gnaro” Mondinelli
• Marco Confortola
• Ivan Vallejo
• Gerlinde Kaltenbruner
• Ralf Dujmovits
• Fabio Iacchini
• Edurne Pasaban
• as well as others that are awaiting verification.

Over 70 people took off yesterday for this massive summit push, making there way through very cold tempertures and rising winds.

Silvio Mondinelli Bags 14th 8,000 Meter Peak

With Silvio’s successful summit of Broad Peak, he now becomes the 13th person in the world to land on top of the 14 tallest peaks. He also becomes the sixth person to do so without the use of supplemental O2 along his journey.  Two other Italians, Reinhold Messner and Sergio Martini have also mastered the 14 8,000 meter peaks.

Two More Closing In

Ivan Vallejos and Ralf Dumojvits have both been to Broad Peak before, but each of them stand a pretty good chance of accomplishing their respective goals of reaching the tops of all 14 8,000 meter peaks as well.  Ivan Vallejos now only needs Dhauligiri to complete his quest and Dumojvits is currently standing at 10 peaks.

Women Closing in as Well

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, the leading lady on the quest for 14 8,000 meter peaks has made Broad Peak her tenth.  Edurne Pasaban is sitting one below with 9 at this momment.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, the crafty Austrian, has accomplished her 10 successful summits without any supplementary O2.  She is married to the previously mentioned Ralf Dujmovits and between them now own 22 8,000 meter summits.

A Little Broad Peak History

Broad Peak stands at 26, 400 feet and measures up as the 12th highest peak in the world and the fourth highest in Pakistan.  It was originally labeled K3, and sits along the Pakistan-China Border.  It’s first ascent came on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemburger, and Hermann Buhl, all members of an Austrian Expedition put together by Marcus Schmuck.

Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemburger were subsequently killed 18 days later while trying to ascend a nearby peak, Chogolisa on June 27, 1957.

Over or Above? Bear Grylls, ExplorersWeb, and the dispute RESOLVED

ExplorersWeb is currently running an interesting article questioning British Adventurist Bear Grylls’ claims about his supposed flight over Mt. Everest.

If you are not familiar with this flight, here is a link to a couple of posts I made concerning this event during the 2007 Everest Season.

• Paragliding Everest:  Bear Grylls’ Latest Insanity
• Everest 2007 Update:  It’s a Bird…It’s a Plane….It’s  Bear Grylls at 30,000 Feet!!

ExplorersWeb is taking into question the same thing many of us have thought….Where’s the proof?  Here is their Article.

Supposedly Bear Grylls has stated the following to ExplorersWeb:

It is all captured on film!,” Bear Grylls stated over email as a reply to ExplorersWeb’s request for proof on his claimed para-motor flight over Everest. “Discovery & Channel four are releasing the 2 hours-long film documenting the whole adventure at the end of the year… We will see it all then so there is no doubt!”

Perhaps Bear Grylls does not understand what the word “OVER” means.  He is laying claims that he has flown his one-person, Ultra-light aircraft OVER the top of Mt. Everest….Yes, that was the original intention…but not the outcome.

Bear Grylls’ attempt was a very public effort.  As being such, it is also widely known that Bear Grylls decided to not fly “Over” the top of Mt. Everest…but “OVER” the height of the World’s tallest peak. 

He backed out of his original intentions after getting woried about the Chinese authorities apprehending him upon landing in China–which you must do if you fly OVER Mt. Everest.

Many people, including the SummitClimb Expedition team who were present when this took place also lay claim that the flight never went over Everest.

People are asking for proof…and quite frankly there is nothing to prove other than a possible height record for an Ultra-Light aircraft.  Even this will never be verified though as there was no liscensing permitted for this feat…which is required before a new record can be established.  At the same time, Bear Grylls’ instrument panel froze up, leading to only speculation as far as the true height that he was flying.

To make matters worse, there is no visible proof of his height, other than a few photos which prove that he was only in the air–

Bear claims that Discovery Channel and the BBC are currently editing his footage for a special that will appear on TV later in the year…Don’t get me wrong, I think the special will be put out…but I think most of you will be dissappointed that he will not be going OVER Everest, as will be hyped, but rather over the Height of Mt. Everest–as claimed.

The word OVER is the key part in this argument at this point and Bear Grylls is playing it to the nine..

It is mentioned that Bear has hyped up other Adventures of his before in the ExplorersWeb article, so this new play on words should not come as a surprise.

Another thing of interest is why is ExplorersWeb trying so hard to discredit Bear Grylls, when all the facts to the story have been said not only by Bear Grylls, but also the media numerous times?

Here is an example.  This story is coming from The Telegraph in the UK:  Explorer Hits Heights With Himalaya Record

This story also features a video clip as well as photos of this expedition.  Bear Grylls also talks to The Telegraph about his attempt.  Take special notice in his description of not flying OVER Everest, but of being able to fly ABOVE the height of Everest and look over into Tibet.

This should very well end this argument.  Bear Grylls nor ExplorersWeb should be discredited for their information and reporting.  I think both are in the right.  I think the one item that will stand out though is each of their understandings of the word OVER..

It will be interesting how this plays out on Discovery and the BBC as they try to build this program.  Just keep in mind what I have said and don’t be to dissappointed in the outcome.

As far as I am concerned, there shouldn’t even be a discussion taking place over this if you truly read this story as it has come out in numerous other places…this issue is OVER.

BREAKING NEWS UPDATE: Body of Christine Boskoff Found

In December of 2006, two high profile climbers Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler went missing in the Sechuan Province of China.

The subsequent news of this event shook the climbing community to it’s foundation.  At the time in December 2006, much of the world was focused on three lost climbers on Mt. Hood in Oregon and the ensuing Rescue mission that eventually turned into a Recovery.

Charlie Fowler, a world reknown climber and photographer, along with Christine Boskoff, a World class climber in her own right and subsequent owner of Mountain Madness, one of the world’s leading mountain expedition companies,  set out to claim some unchartered peaks in China.  A vacation they had been planning on for two years.

The two soon dissappeared and an all out search effort ensued in China with little media coverage.

On December 29, 2006 Charlie Fowler’s body was found on Genyen Peak, but there were no signs of Christine.

On January 2, 2007 the search for Christine Boskoff was essentially called off with her being presumed dead.

On July 8th 2007, Everest is Ours, A Blog discussing Mt. Everest and the Climbing world made a post about the continued search for Christine Boskoff.  You may find that HERE.

Also this month Climbing Magazine, which I am a subscriber also ran a story about Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler and the continued efforts to find Christine.

Today it is being reported by Mountain Madness President Mark Gunlogson that Christine Boskoff’s Body has been found near where Charlie Fowler’s was found last December.

Here is Mountain Madness’ Complete Press Release:

SEATTLE July 9, 2007 – The body of accomplished US climber Christine Boskoff was found in the mountains of southern China on July 3rd, local China time.  The search and recovery team supported by Mountain Madness, the Seattle-based adventure guide company owned by Boskoff, resumed their search for Boskoff last May on the remote mountain peak of Genyan Massif in Sichuan Province. 

Last November, Boskoff and her climbing partner Charlie Fowler, also a renowned high-altitude mountain climber, were on a personal climbing expedition in Sichuan Province when the pair failed to return to the U.S.  Fowler’s body was recovered on December 27th, and search crews ceased their efforts to search and recover Boskoff until the spring due to winter weather.  Both are believed to have died in an avalanche.

“We resumed the search and recovery efforts for Chris once the weather improved and rock fall hazards lessened,” said Mark Gunlogson, president of Mountain Madness.  “This latest news brings closure to what was a great loss for her family, friends, Mountain Madness and the climbing community.  Chris lived life to the fullest and she died doing what she loved best in one of her most favorite places to climb.” 

“Chris established a legacy as one of the most successful female high altitude mountaineers in history, having climbed six 8,000 meter peaks including two successful ascents of Everest. She brought her tremendous climbing experience, unique humility for someone so accomplished, and love of the mountains to Mountain Madness and its many clients where she built one of the world’s foremost climbing organizations. We will miss her enthusiasm and infectious smile, but will continue to draw upon her spirit as we move forward,” said David C. Jones, Mountain Madness board member. 

A memorial fund to benefit Room to Read has been set up in Boskoff’s name to benefit school children in Nepal.  Boskoff was a former board member of the non-profit organization that helps establish schools, libraries and other educational infrastructures in developing countries.  Room to Read is building a school in Nepal in Boskoff’s honor.  Donations to the Boskoff memorial fund, as well as surplus funds from the Boskoff-Fowler search and recovery fund, will go to support the school in Nepal and scholarships for girls throughout the country.

“She was passionate about climbing and her love of the people and the cultures she traveled to, especially the children of Nepal and we’re honored to be a part of this lasting memorial for Chris,” said John Wood, founder and chief executive officer of Room to Read.  “She was selfless in pursuit of our mission and passionate in her belief that children throughout the developing world should have access to great schools, teachers, libraries and books.”

To support the Boskoff memorial fund donations can be made at www.roomtoread.com or by sending a check to: 

Room to Read – Mountain Madness Appeal
The Presidio
PO Box 29127
San Francisco, CA 94129

About Mountain Madness:
Founded in 1984, Mountain Madness is an adventure guide travel service and mountaineering school based in Seattle, Washington.  The company provides adventure-guided expeditions in Africa, Antarctica, Asia, Europe, North America, South America and Oceania, as well as courses in rock climbing, avalanche and skiing.  For more info: www.mountainmadness.com

Contact:
Mark Gunlogson
Mountain Madness
206-937-8389
markg@mountainmadness.com

(Editor’s Note:  This article was compiled from information obtained from the following sources:  The Adventure Blog, the Everest is Ours Blog, and the MountainMadness Website as well as information contained here in The Adventurist.)

If you would like to catch up on the search for Christine Boskoff and Charlie Fowler, you may do so by clicking the following link for The Adventurist’s full coverage.

BREAKING NEWS: CHRISTINE BOSKOFF’S BODY FOUND

CHRISTINE BOSKOFF’S Body has been found.  She vanished while climbing in China last December with Charlie Fowler……

This story is developing and will be updated shortly….

J. Alan Hendricks, Editor

(This story has been updated.  The Updated Post found on this site can be reached by clicking the following link.  BREAKING NEWS UPDATE:  Body of Christine Boskoff Found.  This article does include the official Press Release as given by MountainMadness, Christine Boskoff’s former company.)

The Road to Everest–Literally!

Mt. Everest is set to be getting a new road.  The road, scheduled to begin construction on Monday, is being put in to place by the Chinese in an effort to help with their 2008 plans of summiting Mt. Everest with the famed Olympic Torch. 

This year has already seen the Chinese make a successful practice run of the torch to the summit.

The new road in will allow for a speedier trek to Basecamp for the Chinese as well as many other Expeditions that use this same path to Mt. Everest annually.  The Chinese are predicting a big outpouring of spectators for this event and are trying to rush along the process to ensure it’s success before next years Olympic Games.

The new road, which will run from Tangri County of Xigaze Prefecture at the base of Mt. Everest to Mt. Everest Basecamp–some 108 km, will be placed directly on top of a rough path used by Expedition Companies and climbers to reach Everest Basecamp.  The new road project is expected to take 4 months to build and will come in at a rough cost of $19.7 million.

The new road building project is set to kick off Monday with groundbreaking at Everest Basecamp, some 5, 200 meters above sea level.

The Road will be built complete with blacktop and metal guardrails and should allow much easier access to a place that usually took three days or more to get to, in the past.

Earlier this year rumors started circulating that the Chinese plan to shut down the North Side of Everest next year to Expeditions hoping to try for a summit next spring.  At this time no further word has been given about this situation.

Of interest though would be the expected crowds that this new road might let in to one of the most dangerous mountains in the world.  In 2007, well over 500 people made a successful summit, while 5 died in the process.  It is hard to imagine possibly more crowds in the basecamp area as alot of teams were concerned about them this season…

Also, Tibet, who has been fighting for this territory that China also claims ownership to since the 1950’s, has been highly outspoken in their dissapproval of anything in their country being tied to the Chinese Olympics.  Tibet has been voicing their opinions in highly public protests–one of which led to 5 people being arrested on Mt. Everest this season, against China.

With all of this building up to the 2008 Olympics and the 2008 Everest climbing season in the spring, it will be very interesting to see how this plays out, and if, indeed, the Chinese can pull this off successfully without an International Incident, as Tibet will once again become a huge focus in International circles.

The ChinaView was the source for part of this information after following a link from The Drudge Report.

Everest 2007 Update: Summits, Summits, and More Summits

Yesterday I posted an Interview with David Tait as well as Alan Arnette’s BIG Announcement–both of these items were pretty big news.  I didn’t post my usual update yesterday with all the previously mentioned stuff going on…so guess what.  That means this is going to be one HUGE update covering the events that has been going on for the last couple of days.

Before I get in to that though, I would first like to post a fair warning for anyone coming by this site from the Television Without Pity forum.  There will be at least one Everest: Beyond the Limit spoiler here today.  So if you don’t want to know what has happened–either skip this post, or come back tomorrow.  I do appreciate all of you stopping by though.

Alright, Let’s get to it:

David Hahn Summits for a Record 9th Time

David Hahn, climbing with IMG, has successfully summited Mt. Everest for his record 9th time.  This puts David as the single most productive Everest Summiter ever that is a non-sherpa climber.  Don’t fear though, I am pretty sure that Apa Sherpa’s current record of 17 will be holding for quite a few more years to come.

Here is a post that Dave made to his expedition website GreatOutdoors:

Hey Great Outdoors, hey this is Dave and I’m on the summit of Mount Everest, it’s let’s see, see if I can see my watch here, it’s 6:40 now we got here 15 minutes ago. Beautiful morning. Beautiful morning. We beat the crowd, and it gave us some trouble, aggravating coming up in the dark at sunrise up the step part of the South Summit, but everybody rested on the South Summit and me and Phinjo Dorge from . . . right there and we got the jump and then had the traverse and Hillary Steps to ourselves, splendid morning, beautiful shadows, casting big shadow of Everest out to the horizon. Just beautiful, really very thrilling, and uh going to give you another call in a minute here, oh boy, it’s exciting to be here. Think I can see as far as I ever have been able to, Makalu, Kangchenchugka, Shishapangma, maybe that’s Manaslu back there, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, beautiful. Beautiful. Okay call you back in a few minutes when my fingers thaw out again.

Sounds like a great view from the top of the World’s Highest Peak, Mt. Everest.

Gavin Bate’s Near Death Experience…Summit Denied

Gavin Bate, who was trying to pull off his own successful traverse of Everest, going North to South, had to call off his climb after nearly dying at 8300 meters.

To begin to put this into perspective, David was planning on traversing Everest with his “shadow” Sherpa Pasang Tendi, using the bare minimum of essentials–a light-weight single-skin tent, a small stove and bivi sack, and whatever else he could manage to get into his backpack.  Now let’s go to the details of what transpired as he attempted to reach the summit.  First, from May 19: Read more

The Adventurist: The David Tait Interview Pt. 2, Post Everest 2007

In March of this year, The Adventurist had the priviledge of interviewing David Tait before he set off to climb Mt. Everest.  David’s ambitions were made very clear.  He wanted to become the first person to ever “Double-Traverse” Mt. Everest in the same season. 

He was well prepared.  David had summited Mt. Everest previously in 2006 and was feeling in such great shape afterwards that he made a commitment to dedicate himself to the world’s first ever double-traverse of Everest in 2007, all the while donating every penny earned to the NSPCC and trying to draw some much needed attention for his latest life mission– helping children who have been the victims of abuse in his native land.

David’s attempt garnered alot of attention this season.  He was a member of the much touted and often ridiculed Himex Team that is being led by Russell Brice–and who, by chance, was also being followed along by The Discovery Channel Team in hopes of filming their second season of Everest: Beyond the Limit.

Through David’s Expedition Blog this season we were given the rare opportunity to take a look at what goes on behind the scenes.  David’s thoughts, concerns, and daily routine were not only followed by myself, but by thousands of people around the world.  In effect, this attention has garnered David something that he has been trying to get accomplished for well over a year now–and that is helping the NSPCC.

Through David Tait’s great assault on Everest this season, we were all able to learn a little bit about ourselves.  David’s journey began strong.  He put himself in place to make a successful first summit and in essence, he did just that.  Half of his goal was accomplished.  Now all he had to do was go back down the opposite side of Mt. Everest, take a 7-10 day rest, and do it all over again from the South Col.

What surprised alot of people in the world was what happened next.  Upon reaching Camp on the South, David made an announcement that his double-traverse was essentially off–

Over the next couple of days, David would go on to explain his reasonings behind this decision.  He felt that Phurba Sherpa, his climbing partner this season, should be given the credit he was due.  If anyone should be the “first” to do something, David noted, It should be the Sherpa who have been an integeral part of every climbing expedition on Mt. Everest.

Over the past season, David has been looked upon as perhaps a little cocky.  David has been seen, as one climber put it, as the “007″ on Everest this season.  Discovery Channel found in David someone who they originally thought would make for great TV..he was good-looking, well prepared, well spoken, and at times could be a bit controversial..someone the american audiences would surely fall in love with.  But David had other plans…

David Tait is his own man.  From the beginning David stayed focused and knew where he was going.  He had goals and he stuck to them..and in a suprise move David Tait showed the World something that alot of us foresake….humility.

In David’s humility, as much as the decision was so hard for  alot of us to comprehend at the time–David still became the first person to EVER traverse Everest, North to South, from his native UK as well as the first Person to ever do so from Europe.

Two new records, a successful traverse of the world’s tallest peak–and tons and tons of humility…that is David Tait.

It is with great pleasure that I can bring to you the first In-Depth Interview with David since his decision to call off his Double-Traverse.  You will see, undoubtedly, how this all unfolded just days ago.

I will let you make up your own minds on who David Tait is and what he represents, as well as perhaps, show you what part of being great entails.

The Adventurist Interviews David Tait

 

The Adventurist:  When I first interviewed you for The Adventurist back in March, you were
just preparing to head off to Mt. Everest.  It has now been two and a half months and you have successfully summited Mt. Everest for a second time. How are you feeling right now and what is your general condition?

David Tait:  I’m feeling more than a little tired -I keep dozing off, but considering i’m still sitting in solitary confinement at the hotel Tibet in Katmandu, i’ve little else to do but read and sleep. I have started to reflect on the successes of the expedition and i’m quite content.

The Adventurist:  This marks the second Expedition to Mt. Everest that you have been on with Himex.  This season was a little bit different though as The Discovery Channel Film Crew was on hand to record what was going on.  Can you elaborate a bit on this experience, and did it in any way influence your day to day activities and preparation?

David Tait:  Yes, I found the film crew to be a nice sociable bunch, but in an ideal world I would have prefered to climb without them. This is for two reasons - firstly, I believe [my opinion only] that they became a little disappointed with the ordinaryiness of the participants, and desperately wanted something to “spice things up”…. i bored them senseless with interviews in which i only referred to the climb and my charity work. i think they hoped for a lot more than this. Secondly, in my opinion again, there was disproportionate attention given to two memebers of the expedition, one complete [literally] novice lady, and one larger than life, but ultimately offensive semi-experienced man. It was clear to me, owing to the coverage that these two got, that the essence of the program [reality tv] would fail without their presence. I found this a little depressing at times.

The Adventurist:  As your summit attempt was taking shape, Russell Brice met with you and
Phurba Sherpa giving you  the go-ahead to start your ascent.  First, can you tell us about this meeting and second, why were you given the go-ahead so far in advance of the rest of the Himex crew?

David Tait:  ———-The meeting was help on the “tigerdome” in the presence once again
of the cameras. Russ, Phurba and i discussed firstly the current state of the fixed ropes, the imminent plans to fix higher, ultimately to the summit, the plans for moving or removing bodies [with permission] from the route, and finally the plans for our traverse/s - this included oxygen, and other minor logisitcs. We had the go ahead to leave earlier owing to the intention of double-traversing inside the proscribed time limit of the end of the season.

The Adventurist:  Upon beginning your ascent there were varied accounts of the projected
“Weather Window” for the summit.  You essentially took a chance by taking off a bit
earlier than everyone else.  Was this planned to beat the crowds or were there other factors involved?

David Tait:  The principal factor was to allow for a second return attempt - hence the early departure. The weather looked a little didgy when we left abc, but in the end it was ideal. We realized there would likely be crowds, but as we both move very fast, we were confident we could outpace most - as we manged.

The Adventurist:  Once you had finally made your successful summit from the North and began to head down the South, did you have any idea that you would be fixing ropes and breaking trail on your descent?  Also, for the uninitiated, can you explain what you had to do and the toll that it eventually took?

David Tait:  Yes, we were aware that the south-side sherpas had only fixed rope to the “balcony”. However, as both of us hadn’t  seen the south-side before, we had no real idea where the balcony was, or how hard it would be to reach. We set off from the summit somewhat blind, moving very slowly and carefully, digging footholds, one at a time, so that the snow wouldn’t mini-avalanche,taking one of us with it. We were joined together by 25 m of rope for safety, and belay-relayed ourselves along the ridge to the Hilary
step. Somehow my oxygen got turned off by hitting the wall, and I thought I was suffocating - I dont know how. Phurba checked for me and turned it back on. That was a weird 10 mins. We were also carrying 150m of rope for possible permanent fixing. We fixed line from the Hillary step, across and up to the south summit - this took an age owing to the need to creep slowly across the ridge-line, cutting footholds. From the south summit to the balcony was
fairly routine, but with quite deep shifting snow. Once at the balcony we discovered the fixed rope….it took us from 6.30 until 11 am approx. to
negotiate the distance from the summit to the balcony….many times longer than it would have done under normal circumstances.

The Adventurist:  In the beginning of this journey, your goal was to “Double-Traverse” the
world’s highest mountain, but after your first successful summit and crossing over to the South you changed your mind.  Can you take us through this process and the reasonings behind your change of mind?

David Tait:  The reasons I changed my mind are twofold. Firstly, and most importantly,  as I mentioned on my site, the only way I was personally going to claim “first to double traverse” was if i asked a superior climber and human being [Phurba] to effectively “step-aside” and let me ” win”. This has been gnawing away at me for months. Having watched Phurba fix ropes to the
summit on April 30th, and then descend to bc in 6 hours, i knew in my heart that he deserved all plaudits. He is an extrordinary chap, honest,
generous, patient and modest to a point that the Dalai Lama could learn things from him. There was no way, especially in the context of my charity work, that I could pretend to supercede him.
The second thing, closely connected was that I was also very tired from the descent - much more than I had anticipated. In the context of not wanting to usurp Phurba, I knew that there was little if any point in forcing my way over this mountain yet again, to come in second. I also feel strongly that such “titles” are there for the sherpas to take and legitimately own….. they
are streets ahead of ALL westerners, so I contented myself with “the first Brit” or if i’m lucky ” the first westerner” to traverse north-south.[ maybe you could help me with a clearer verification? I'd be grateful]. I’ve been told by many many informed people that im the first brit, but id like to know for dead-sure?

The Adventurist:  How different was this experience compared to your first successful summit? Was it easier or harder?

David Tait:   Harder - only in as much as I underestimated the south side descent…. 17 hours of arm-wrapping in both snow-storms and blazing sun - in a down suit….

The Adventurist:  Looking back, is there anything you would have done differently on this
Expedition, or did everything pretty much go as planned?

David Tait:  Everything went better than planned - I managed to summit/traverse after
only 35 days of acclimatization, and the summit day climb was relatively easy…I was suprised.

The Adventurist:  The NSPCC, your charity that you were doing this for, has been able to gain
alot of publicity through yourself and The Discovery Film Team.  If you had a few words for these kids you are trying to help, what would you say?

David Tait:   For the abused kids out there : you have a choice, as I once did. Your life can go south or it can go north - the choice is up to you. Stop blaming others and focus on yourself. I carried my secrets for 30 years - a wasted thirty years. let things go, and start climbing life.

The Adventurist:  Well, Once again David, I will congratulate you on a great climb and a successful second Mt. Everest summit!  It has been a pleasure to follow along with you on this fantastic journey and we are all looking forward to hearing more from you soon.  Hope your recovery goes well.. I am sure Vanessa can’t wait to see you!!  Now hurry Home…Safely!

 Bonus Questions

The Adventurist:  Since this is now over, do you think you will ever try Everest again?

David Tait:  Maybe, if my son or daughter wanted company etc…. but not for
any other reason.

The Adventurist:  In your opinion, what website brings the best “Adventure” coverage in
the world?    This may or may not be published depending on answer.  Ha,ha.

 David Tait:  You definately have a great site - i’m honestly only familiar with you and Ex-web. Yours is far more interesting owing to the manner in which you apparently obtain your info.  You are accurate, Ex-web isnt….dt

Editor’s Note:  At this time, David Tait has been confirmed as being the first person from the UK to make a successful Traverse of  Mt. Everest. 

I would also like to make a point to say that the opinions and viewpoints represented on The Adventurist are not neccessarily those of this site. In the context of  representing all viewpoints in the most accurate fashion, nothing has been left out, and except for a couple of minor spelling changes..everything is being presented as it was.

If you are interested in reading David’s first interview, just days before he began this incredible journey in March, you may do so by clicking HERE.

And Lastly, David Tait is currently in Kathmandu awaiting the arrival of his equipment so that he may leave for home.  David has mentioned that there just may be a book in the works about his two successful summits of Mt. Everest as well his work with the NSPCC…We will keep our eyes out for this project and I will bring more to you when I find out further.

Everest 2007 Update: More Summits, Another Confirmed Death, and News of a New World Record Holder!

Death of Czech Climber, Libor Kozak, Confirmed 

Recent dispatches have been circulating a rumored death on Mt. Everest for the past couple of days.  Today we can positively confirm that this death did take place and did involve a Czech climber.

Libor Kozak, 47, had been climbing on the North Side of Mt. Everest, pushing for the summit when he began to feel bad.  He decided to head back to Camp at 8300 meters in an attempt to get possible help and rest.  Libor Kozak ended up being sicker than what some had thought and ended up dying at this point.

This news was originally posted on an Expedition Update by Alex Abramov and the 7Summits Expedition, but over the next couple of days the story had quieted down.

Two days later, EverestNews made a post saying a confirmation of the death would be coming in, but it never came as they were awaiting word that the family of the climber had been notified of his passing and his name was never released.

CzechClimbing.com Originally made the assumption of who the climber was, based on their information that there was only one Czech Climber climbing from the North this season, Libor Kozak.  On a post to their site, a friend of Libor Kozak’s family confirmed the news and mentioned that the family had been notified. 

A New World’s Youngest 7 Summitter

Samantha Larson, 18, from Long Beach, CA has just become the youngest person in the world to climb the highest mountain on all 7 continents.

She made this new record after summiting Mt. Everest on Thurday with her father, David Larson.  Her record now surpasses the previous record for the youngest 7Summiter held by 20 year old British climber, Rhys Miles Jones.

Samantha Larson began her assault on the 7 Summits record at the Ripe Old Age of 13, when she first reached the summit of South America’s Tallest peak Mt. Aconcagua.  Then the following year she successfully climbed Africa’s tallest Peak, Mt. Kilimanjaro.

Samantha Larson graduated from Long Beach Poly High School last year and amazingly carried a 4.43 Grade point average throughout her high school career.  Upon graduation, Samantha took a year off, in order to climb some of the world’s tallest peaks, before heading off to Stanford University.

Samantha Larson made contact with her Mother,to inform her of the news, after reaching Camp 2 upon her descent.

A Big Congratulations goes out to this young lady from The Adventurist.

The World’s youngest Mt. Everest summiter happens to be a Sherpa who scaled the mountain at the age of 15.

More Summits Today

Alex Abramov’s first group from the 7 Summits Expedition has officially made the summit.  This first wave involved 12 individuals–with a second group currently heading up as well.

Alex Abramov did mention the following news though, and we will have to keep an eye out on this situation:

Only our guide Sergey Kofanov continues to work on the route. . He has found out near to the camp of 8300 meters an Italian climber in very bad condition. As appeared, he has spent two days near the camp of 8300 meters, probably out of tent. Sergey Kofanov has collected small group of rescue: they are two French girls and one Sherpa. They accompany the Italian downwards. In the beginning he could not even move at all and could not speak. Sergey made an injection of deximetazon, then have moved him in a tent, gave him water. In result, Italian climber now can go down on one`s own, but very slowly. We hope, that they can lower him today down to the camp on North Col.

Adventure Consultants Summit 5

Adventure Consultants has announced that 5 members of their team have successfully summited today.  Here is a report from their Expedition as well:

Astounding us with their speed and grace, our climbers reached the summit at 5.00am today, just as the first rays of the sun also arrived. Sherpas Lhakpa Dorjee, Nima Dorjee and Pasang Bhote reached the top first, followed by Mike Roberts and Cedric Hayden, accompanied by cheering on the radio from Basecamp! CONGRATULATIONS GUYS!

Prague Mayor Summits!

Pavel Bem, the mayor from Prague that subsequently was turned away from attempting the North Ridge Route by the Chinese, has successfully summited from the South.  Pavel Bem, climbing with his two personal Sherpas made his successful summit today.

Alan Arnette

Alan Arnette’s magnificent Mt. Everest website has some news of note today.  Actually, two pieces. 

The first involves the female chinese climber that was reportedly killed while trying to ascend Mt. Everest two nights ago. 

The good news is that she is still alive and made it successfully to ABC..and seems to be coming along fine.

The second news of note found on Alan’s site is the story of four Italian Climbers that seemingly got into trouble on Everest and the story that ensued.  I reccommend all of you stopping over and checking out this piece and while you are at it, join Alan’s Climbing Forum dedicated to Mt. Everest and Mountain Climbing in general.  By the way, if you stop by his place, tell him I sent you–

Bear Grylls

The Adventure Blog has posted news of Bear Grylls making his successful flight to the height of Mt. Everest and beyond.  A couple of days ago I posted a piece about an unexpected “encounter” with Bear Grylls by one of the Expedition teams.  You may find this story HERE as well.

Next Page »