Murder On Everest? Tainted Alcohol Blamed For Sherpa Poisonings And Death

There is some very disturbing news coming off of Mt. Everest today.  A recent Sherpa death has been attributed to what the Sherpa thought was a bottle of alcohol-which in reality was methanol.  It was packaged, bottled, and labeled as Nepali Royal Stag Deluxe Whiskey.  At least one other Sherpa is currently in dire condition after drinking from the same bottle.

Gavin Bates reports that the recent death of Kaji Sherpa is attributed to this bad batch of brew and that Gavin’s own expedition cook is also suffering some very serious health problems-being near death at one point.

I don’t do this very often, but the seriousness of this situation and the readership that this site has, I feel that it is only right to reprint Gavin’s full report to get the word out about what is/has taken place.

I would seriously recommend ANY expedition leaders to please, Please, PLEASE go through the alcohol in your camp and make sure that Nepali Royal Stag Deluxe Whiskey is NOT in your stash of supplies and get the word out on this disheartening and truly awful situation before more deaths occur senselessly.

Gavin Bates has done an amazing job of giving us plenty of information, clear down to who is possibly passing the bad alcohol off on unsuspecting individuals.  Here is his full report:

Ngima Sherpa is my cook here, and a ridiculously happy chap he is too,” Gavin Bate reported earlier today. “He also enjoys the odd drink, like most of the staff here, and the other night he went next door to the Mountain Top group and polished off a bottle of Nepali Royal Stag deluxe whiskey with his mate Kaji Sherpa, the camp 2 cook from this group. They come from the same village called Thaksindu, three days below Lukla.”

“Unfortunately this wasn’t whiskey at all, it was methanol, part a stock of illegal brew made in Kathmandu and delivered throughout the Khumbu in the last few months. The dealer in Lukla is a Gurung called Lama and so far four other people have died in the region because of this poisoning. At this moment, as I type, I am surrounded by liaison officers and we are calling the police inspector in Namche Bazaar to push for a formal investigation into murder or manslaughter.”

”A few hours after enjoying their late night , Kaji was lying dead on the ice outside and Ngima was fighting for his life. Methanol poisoning is quick and deadly. Within a short time the Indian Army team doctor found Ngima and attempted to help him (he was conscious enough to drink some coffee) but very quickly he was going into renal failure. My staff carried him to the HRA medical emergency tent, and then began the first desperate 24 hours of trying to keep him alive.

Ngima was lucky, he was attended to by some of the finest medical minds in wilderness medicine. Eric and Torrey, who run the HRA here, were immediately forced to think outside the box. This was almost a lost cause from the start, but they persevered with dogged tenacity. Other doctors started to attend the scene - Jeff from Adventure Consultants, Lana from the Croatian team, Melissa from RMI, Donald from Summit Climb and also Felix from the German team.”

”My team here attended round the clock, but we were supported mostly by both Willie and Damien Benegas, who carried out procedures and assisted from beginning to end, eschewing sleep and even their own climbing teams to keep Ngima alive, right up until the moment that we finally loaded him aboard the helicopter this morning. Also worth mentioning is Adele from Jagged Globe who kept on turning up to help at the just the right moment.”

This is a sad and very SERIOUS situation.  Investigations are currently taking place into this matter.  I will share more info when I get it…

Let’s keep the affected Sherpas in our thoughts and prayers and hope that investigators can get to the bottom of this tragic situation.  Unbelievable!

First Ascent Team Everest Dispatch 35

The First Ascent Team, one of the highest profiled teams on Everest this season, has posted a few new dispatches this week.  Dave Hahn reports that the team has made it to Camp 2 without any difficulties thus far.  Back at Base Camp, the videographers have been exploring the area and introducing some of the other expeditions and members that are along for this season’s climb.  There was a nice overview of the Eco-Everest expedition a few days back–the team trying to clean up Mt. Everest by paying Sherpas to bring down garbage.

It looks like everything is running smoothly, but I am sure that many of us thought it would.  With the likes of Dave Hahn and Ed Viesturs, and the whole experience of the team–as well as the incredible video updates, the First Ascent Team knows how to work the publicity wheel.  I look forward to following along with this expedition, and you can to by visiting their blog–Born Out There.

Everest 2009: Johnny Strange Vying For Youngest Westerner Summit

The Los Angeles Times recently profiled Johnny Strange, a 17-year-old kid who is determined to become the youngest person to conquer the 7 Summits.  The next tick on his list happens to be Mt. Everest where he is currently at Everest Basecamp preparing to start his acclimatization.

Johnny Strange will be joined on the expedition by his father, Brian, as well as their guide, Scott Woolums.  Scott has led Johnny and his father on climbs to Vinson Massif, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Denali, and Mt. Elbrus, 5 of the 7 Summits.

The Los Angeles Times article is a nice perspective on what will be one of the more exciting Everest expeditions of 2009.  Not only could Johnny Strange become the youngest person to summit the 7 Summits, but he could also become the youngest western climber to scale Mt. Everest.

Everest 2009: Inside Himex’s 5-Star Luxury Basecamp

Himalayan Expedition’s (Himex) 2009 Everest Basecamp looks to be another leap into luxury for Russell Brice, the leader for the Himex team.  During the 2007 Everest climbing season some discussion (and whispers) took place regarding the luxury that Russell Brice always brings to Everest.  This seems to be quite contradictory to many people’s beliefs of the rugged Everest expedition.  Russell has outdone himself again in 2009.

This is coming from the blog of the Discovery Channel film crew, who is involved in filming Russell’s Himex team for season three of Everest: Beyond the Limit:

I haven’t seen anything quite as close as Russell Brice’s 2009, 5-star, luxury base camp. The kitchen has shiny fan-assisted ovens, chefs in starched linen aprons arrange salmon on platters with parsley and flowers in baskets hang from the walls (Ok, so the flowers are plastic, but it works!).  You’ll think I’m exaggerating when I tell you there are hot-cross buns baking on Easter morning, but trek past the Himex camp with its white-domed communal tent with fully stocked bar, plasma TV, surround-sound stereo, then smell the cinnamon-baked bread wafting across the Khumbu Valley and you’ll get an idea of the level of comfort Russell has brought to Everest.

I am betting that you won’t see the luxurious white dome in the final cut of Everest: Beyond the Limit.  It was left out of Season 1, and I don’t recall it being shown in season two.  I do remember reporting about his set-up during season two.  Most of the other expeditions are in awe of the luxury, or look down upon the attempt at making one of the most inhospitable environments a little more friendly.  To them, luxury is not Everest.

The Discovery Channel Everest film blog also tells us that Russell’s 2009 Himex team consists of 26 people.  Each of these individuals have paid upwards of $50-75,000 each for the chance at the summit of Everest.  That may explain why the Basecamp for Himex is a bit more luxurious than most.  Add in the benefits of having one of the world’s most reknown Everest authorities as your guide, an impeccable safety record, and an 80-90% success rate for summits and you can see why Himex always gains attention on Everest.

How is this for a look at the menu?

There was no handwritten menu, but let me tell you, there are freezers with beef steaks, salmon and chicken, and there is real mayonnaise! They had grilled tomatoes topped with melted cheese, scones with cream cheese and strawberry jam, fresh fruit and vegetables. I’m sorry to go on, but up here we spend entire evenings fantasizing about food like this.

When most climbers are choking down protein bars, rice pudding/porridge, and beef jerky, Himex’s menu is sure to make even the strongest climbers weak in the knees.

If your going to dish out $50,000 on a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, you might as well do so in the lap of luxury and hope that the luxury will eventual land you on the summit of Mt. Everest.  If not?  Well, at least you had some delicious scones, watched some cool movies on plasma flatscreens, and enjoyed a very cool $50,000 Nepali vacation like few others have the chance to experience.

What do you think of the Himex luxury?  Is it to much for one of the world’s greatest adventures?  Should it be a more rugged experience?  Chime in with your thoughts in the comments below.

Everest 2009: The Logistics of Everest

Kraig Becker has posted an excellent article on the travel blog Gadling.com today about “The Logistics of Everest.”  Simply put, before someone steps foot in Tibet or Nepal for their Everest expedition, many factors have to be dealt with first.  Kraig talks about the price of Everest, the two months needed for an expedition, different route considerations, and then what to expect once you are actually on the mountain.  It is a nice overview of what will be taking place with the teams over the next couple of months as the Everest climbing season progresses.  Nice work, Kraig.  I highly recommend you guys to read his article.

Once you are done at Gadling.com, be sure to check in on Kraig’s personal blog (and one of my favorites) The Adventure Blog.  Gadling.com has been added to the blogroll.

Everest 2009: The First Ascent Team Dispatch…April 7, 2009

The First Ascent Team has started posting some nice video dispatches from their current Mt. Everest expedition.  If you are not familiar with The First Ascent Team, I know that I have mentioned them previously, then you are in for a treat this year.  The team consists of Peter Whittaker, Dave Hahn, and Ed Viesturs, along with a couple of other climbers.

The First Ascent Team is sponsored by Eddie Bauer and Whittaker Mountaineering.  One of the team’s goals is to bring some awareness to The First Ascent brand of clothing and climbing gear now available at Eddie Bauer, along with testing some of the gear that may make it into the future line-up.  The First Ascent gear is being designed, in part, by the likes of Dave Hahn, Ed Viesturs, and Peter Whitaker.  You can click through some of the gear by visiting The First Ascent website.  Definitely some great looking and functional gear-

The First Ascent Team will be posting daily video updates on their blog and to YouTube.  This makes it rather convenient for me to carry their updates as they are being posted-and keep all of you informed and up-to-date on The First Ascent Team’s expedition.  Thank-you guys.

On a personal level, I have learned that one of my good friends-Jake Norton-is also with The First Ascent Team.  He will be using his video and photography skills to capture the expedition for a future project.  Jake has been to the top of Everest, himself, and was also instrumental in the discovery of George Mallory’s body on Everest in 1999.  Jake is also the Director for the Bradford Washburn Museum of American Mountaineering in Boulder, Colorado.  It is nice to see him involved in another huge project.  Viesturs, Whittaker, Hahn, and Norton.  Could there be a bigger team on Everest this year?  This one will be fun to watch.

You can catch the latest First Ascent Team dispatches by following along on their blog:  Born Out There.  Jake Norton is also posting daily updates on his blog:  The MountainWorld™ Blog.  Both offer excellent perspectives and views from this ongoing expedition.

The First Ascent Gear website is also up and running.  They have some nice gear for sale–especially if you like work-ethic rather than looks for your gear.  Functionality and durability are definitely the key with this new Eddie Bauer line. Stop by and see what they have to offer.  From the gear listings you can see that many more items will be ready for purchase in the coming months.  It looks like a great start for this new climbing gear company.  Let’s wish all of them the best–not only with their gear line, but their Everest Expedition too.

Links to the First Ascent Gear website, Born Out There Blog, The Mountainworld Blog, and Whittaker Mountaineering Blog have all been added to The Adventurist blogroll.

Update:  It looks like 10-time Everest summiter Dave Hahn is also posting dispatch updates for the First Ascent Teasm Expedition.  You can read about Dave’s updates at The Daily Dirt–one of the xcellent blogs at Backpacker.com.

Everest 2009 Update: Icefall Doctors Begin Work, Teams Heading To South Basecamp, North Side–Opened or Closed??

The action surrounding the 2009 Mt. Everest climbing season is starting to heat up.  Teams are already well in route and some have even trekked in to the South Side basecamp.  Some of the early South basecamp arrivals include a large Indian Expedition, a Korean Expedition, as well as Altitude Junkies–as Alan Arnette reports:

But teams have made it and some are now at base camp including a large Indian team plus Altitude Junkies’ leader Phil Crampton and his Sherpas and cooks. Most teams are in mid trek spending the nights in the teahouses along the way. Only the most economical (or purists) spend the nights in tents since the teahouses are quite comfortable, safe and clean. In fact that is part of the experiences of trekking the Khumbu and one I would not want to miss.

Over the next few days many more teams will be trekking into Basecamp from Lhukla–which is generally about a 15 mile journey on foot.

The famous Icefall Doctors have began their work to install the ladders and ropes across one of Mt. Everest’s most dangerous features:  The Khumbu Icefall.  This is part of the yearly ritual, but always a good sign that things are going as planned and are right on schedule.  The Icefall Doctors–generally consisting of three Sherpas–probably have one of the most dangerous and respected jobs on Everest.  Without their work (and the danger they put themselves in.) Many expeditions would be scrambling to find a way around the treacherous ice seracs and crevasses.  Quite honestly, without this work being done, most expeditions would probably pass on a South Side expedition.  Teams will be looking to use the ropes and ladders as they migrate up to Camp 1 in the coming weeks.

Read more

Everest 2009: Park Young-seok Returns To Everest’s South West Face, Tribute Climb To 2007 Accident

Park Young-seok is one of very few people in this world who have conquered all 14 8,000 meter peaks, the 7 Summits, and reached both, the North and South Poles. This season, Park Young-seok is returning to Everest to try to help himself overcome a tragic ending to his 2007 expedition. In 2007, Park Young-seok was an expedition leader leading two of his close friends up Mt. Everest. His climbers became lost on Everest’s South-West Face. After more than 13 hours without communication, Oh Hee-joon and Lee Hyeon-jo were both found dead. Park Young-seok blamed himself.

I have nothing to say as an excuse. I’m responsible for the accident because I was the leader of the expedition. A defeated commander has nothing to say.

Park Young-seok will be heading back to the same route where tragedy first struck his team.  His climb will be his solemn tribute to his fallen friends from that fateful 2007 expedition.  Park young-seok was recently profiled on Donga.com.  His personal story is pretty interesting.  The first mountain he climbed was at age four.  He grew up idolizing another famous Korean climber, Goh Sang-don, the first Korean to conquer Mt. Everest in 1977.

The Adventurist actually covered portions of Park Young-seok’s original 2007 expedition up the South West Face of Mt. Everest.  Here is the original report of what this expedition would consist of,  followed by the tragic news of the accident.  Let’s hope that Park Young-seok can find some solace in this season’s climb.

Eco Everest Expedition 2009: Apa Sherpa Shooting For 19th Everest Summit

Ang Tshering Sherpa, the Chairman and Founder of Asian Trekking, has released new information about his company’s upcoming Eco Everest Expedition to Mt. Everest.  This expedition has gained some critical acclaim over the past couple of seasons on Mt. Everest for the environmental awareness and impact that the company is having, not only on Everest, but on the climbers as well.

In a special letter to Alan Arnette, Ang Tshering Sherpa highlights what the expedition will be doing on Mt. Everest this upcoming season and confirms a rumor that I had heard a few weeks back.

The Eco Everest Expedition 2009 will be used as a basis to once again help bring trash down from Mt. Everest.  Climbers and staff involved in this expedition will be paid per kilo of trash brought down, and will also be spreading the word to climbers and expedition leaders about the benefits of Clean Mountain Cans and Restop bags–a few ways that climbers can help benefit the clean-up of Mt. Everest by not leaving any human waste on their own expeditions.  It is thought that over the course of almost 100 years of Mt. Everest expeditions, that there has been over 50 tons of trash left behind on the world’s highest peak.  Eco Everest plans to change that.

Ang Tshering Sherpa also confirmed that Apa Sherpa will be going for his 19th summit attempt on Mt. Everest this season.  Some of you may remember Apa Sherpa and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa’s famed SuperSherpas Expedition from 2007.  Apa captured his 18th summit in 2008, and will be trying to break his own record for the human with the most Everest summits to his name.  The Adventurist wishes Apa Sherpa and the whole Eco Everest team the best of luck in their upcoming 2009 Eco Everest Expedition.

Everest 2009: The Alan Arnette Interviews, Everest: Beyond the Limit III, Russell Brice, and More…

Momentum for the 2009 Spring Everest climbing season continues to build.  Information about the upcoming season began filtering out back in February and more news and information is being released on an almost daily basis.   I am going to try to put together a quick run-down of what we can expect for the upcoming Everest climbing season.   Continue reading for the latest news and information.

Everest: Beyond the Limit Returns For Season III (With a twist.)

I have already mentioned the return of Everest: Beyond the Limit in a previous post, but new information has come to light that the successful Discovery Channel series will be changing things up a bit for 2009.

Two big changes could have a profound effect on the overall series and give everyone a glimpse into a different aspect of climbing Mt. Everest.  For the first time in the series history, all the action will be taking place from the South Side of Everest.  Everest’s South Side is famous for the Khumbu Icefall…perhaps the single deadliest feature on Everest.  Besides that, you also have the Hillary Step that climbers will be trying to scramble over and around during their bids for the summit.

Discovery Channel has opted to go the South Col route after China has once again made allegations that the North side of Everest could be closed off to climbers till at least April 1st.  When China closed the North side last season (for the famed Olympic Torch summit bid), Discovery Channel and HiMex were forced to suspend the Everest: Beyond the Limit series due to logistical issues for the South that the team did not have time to address.  Rather than go through the same problems this time around, a decision was made to opt for the South and climb from Nepal.

Read more

Next Page »