Achille Compagnoni, 1954 K2 First Ascent Team Member, Dies At 94
K2climb.net is reporting that famed K2 first ascenter Achille Compagnoni has died at a hospital in northern Italy at the age of 94. Compagnoni was one of two Italians that were finally able to conquer what many consider the ‘world’s toughest peak’ to climb. The big ascent finally came in 1954 after a series of failed attempts on the second highest peak in the world. Achille Compagnoni achieved the summit with fellow Italian teammate Lino Lacedelli.
There was controversy about this first ascent. Years later news would break that another member of the Italian team may have gotten the jump on Compagnoni and Lacedelli and raced to the summit ahead of the famous duo.
You can read the full account of the famed 1954 K2 first ascent by going to k2climb.net. It is definitely an intriguing story and one that is still in question today.
Filed Under K2 |
K2 Gets Commercialized: The First Guided Expedition To K2
Rock and Ice Magazine is reporting that Fabrizio Zangrilli will be leading the first-ever commercial expedition to K2 in 2009. An Australian/U.S. expedition company, Field Touring Alpine, has put this expedition together.
From Rock and Ice:
The K2 expedition which will depart this June for Pakistan ushers in a new era of Himalayan mountain-guiding or “Super Guiding” and is unparalleled in scope: seven seasoned high-altitude climbers will employ a commercial guide service and the leadership skills of Zangrilli — one of the strongest alpinists in the world and a recent addition to Marmot’s global athlete team – to attempt one of the most difficult mountains ever.
Eleven climbers lost their lives in a tragic accident on K2 in 2008. This accident garnered world-wide attention and sparked a discussion here that K2 may be the next big peak to be commercialized. In theory, this discussion was started after it was revealed that a couple of the K2 climbers had payed for Sherpa assistance-a first of it’s kind on K2. One year later, it has become official.
Is commercializing K2 a good idea?
Looking at what has become of Mt. Everest over the last 20 years, with hundreds and hundreds of people vying for that ultimate summit each Spring, K2 would present a much bigger challenge. The death rate on Everest has dwindled down to less than 1 in 20 in recent years, while K2’s 1 in 4 presents a much greater danger. I am not sure that I would like to see K2 go the way of Everest. It is fun to read and watch, but it takes something away from the challenge when teams begin to find the fastest/easiest route up to make a few dollars. What are your thoughts? Comment below.
Filed Under K2 |
K2 Tragedy: “Up There It Was Hell”–Survivors Of K2 Tragedy Begin To Speak, Photos Emerge
Wilco van Rooijen After Surviving K2 Tragedy–Click Here For More Photos
Hours after rescue helicopters lifted two climbers from the depths of one of the world’s biggest mountain climbing tragedies, the two climbers’ stories are beginning to be reported. Wilco van Rooijen has been quoted in today’s news articles from both Reuters and the Associated Press. The first details of this tragic event provoke thoughts of unorganized expeditions, crowds, and when it became time for do-or-die decisions it was every man for himself.
Wilco van Rooijens miraculously walked into high camp after spending three long days fighting for survival on the world’s second highest peak. His long experience in the death zone is being recorded as amazing and a feat to ponder. He may very well become known as the person who has spent the most continuous amount of time above 20,000 feet in history. It is a feat worth noting, yet, his mere survival is the most important thing. He didn’t do this by choice, but by a need to survive when tragedy took hold. Eleven climbers are dead and four are still missing.
The biggest mistake we made was that we tried to make agreements,” Wilco van Rooijen told Reuters, his face reddened by sun and snow burn after days on the unforgiving 8,611 metre (28,240 feet) mountain.
This is coming from the Reuters report talking with Wilco. Wilco’s statement is made in regards to agreements being set to handle the rope laying, something Wilco notes as being something another expedition was suppose to take care of.
Filed Under K2, K2 Tragedy, K2 Tragedy Update |
K2 Tragedy: Video News Report
Be sure to check out the rest of my coverage of the K2 Tragedy as it happened.
Filed Under K2, K2 Tragedy, Tragedy on K2 |
K2 Could Be Worst Mountainering Disaster In Himalayan History, Spanish Reports: “An Avalanche In The Top of K-2 (8,611 meters) Claimed On Friday The Lives of Eleven Climbers–Three Koreans, Two Pakistanis, Two Nepalese, One Serb, One Dutch and One Norwegian — While Six Others Are Still Missing.”
This quote is coming from the Spanish news site Gara.com and represents some of our worst fears. The tragedy on K2 could be one of the world’s deadliest mountaineering disasters ever, even surpasing the tragic 1996 disaster on Mt. Everest.
I am having a very hard time confirming these foreign reports, however. EverestNews and ExplorersWeb are both staying quiet until climbers reach the area and can investigate, but these reports are pretty wide-spread in the foreign press.
Some climbers are talking to their country’s press about this tragedy and most agree that at least 6 people have died, while at least 11 others are missing, and there are more that are in severe danger of dying from injuries suffered after an ice serec dislodged and caused an avalanche.
Filed Under K2, K2 Accident, K2 Tragedy, Uncategorized |
Tragedy On K2 Update: Marco Confortola Has Been Located, Wilco van Rooijen Is Alive! Other Climbers Still Missing Or Stranded, Rescue Efforts Persist Into Third Day Of Tragic Events
First A quick note: Many Media sources are reporting that up to seven climbers have died on K2 in the last couple of days. Be weary of what you read and don’t take anything as truth. I understand that the climbers’ family and friends do stop by and read these posts at The Adventurist. They also comment on what they read. I have seen this happen with the tragic events on Mt. Hood in 2006, and respectfully, I try to present what is currently known and confirmed. To date there has only been one confirmed death out of this situation. Serbian climber Dren Mendic died after suffering a fall around Camp IV on K2. Any other reports of fatalities are pure speculation at his point and have not been made publicly available. If this information changes, I will update with the info. I would also like to welcome all readers visiting from UKclimbing.com. This is one of the premier climbing sites in the world and it is always nice to get their backing. Thank-you.
Tragedy on K2 Update-10:22 pm eastern time-August 2, 2008
Let’s start things off with a good note. Climber Marco Confortola has been located and is alive. Previously I reported that Marco was one of the missing climbers that rescuers were having a hard time of figuring out where he was. ExplorersWeb is reporting that Marco was located at Camp IV on K2 and is currently being looked after by one of the high-altitude porters. His condition is not immediately available, but at least he is alive and has been located. Click below for more.
Filed Under 2008 K2 Expeditions, K2, K2 Climbing Accident, K2 Tragedy, Uncategorized |
Adventurist Open Thread: Your Thoughts And Prayers For The K2 Climbers
I have rarely opened up a thread in regards to a situation. I am openig up this thread for everyone to post heir thoughts and prayers for the climbers currently trapped on K2. To read more about this ongoing situation, please read the following updates:
Please read of this situation and post your thoughts and prayers to the climbers, rescue workers, expedition companies and their families below. This is a terrible situation and they need all the support they can get.
Filed Under K2, K2 Tragedy |
Tragedy On K2: Confusion–Climbers Missing–Deaths and Injuries Abound–Climbers Still Trapped In K2’s Deathzone
The reports are getting quite hard to follow. Many of the expeditions involved on K2 are from International countries, and many of those don’t speak English. I will try to update the best I can from what I know at this point.
It is being reported that one porter has died. This is in relation to earlier reports that I could not previously confirm. The climbing porter was working with Adventure Tours Pakistan, which also has a french climber that they can not find or get in contact with. His condition is not known at this point, as he is still missing.
Hushe Trek and Tours, who is coordinating the Italian K2 Expedition has one member that has been injured and is requiring rescue attention. Supposedly this member fell in the Bottleneck and has broken an arm or leg. This member is currently being helped down from Camp IV. All other members are accounted for.
Gerard McDonnell, a member of the Dutch International K2 Expedition, is currently missing. He is being listed as living in Alaska, United States.
Filed Under K2, K2 2008, K2 Tragedy |
K2 Rescue Update: 3:46 am Eastern Time
EverestNews has just posted a small update on the rescue attempts currently taking place. A portion of it reads as follows:
Things are real bad on K2. The Koreans, we are told, are sending their Sherpas up to try to rescue climbers. What remains of the Dutch teams at camp 4 is expected to go up with a couple of others. If the fixed ropes are really gone, then ….
At least one climber “hopes” that the fixed ropes are not gone and that those coming down just missed the point…. Who knows at this point.
One unconfirmed report states as many as 7 climbers could be seen up high…
It is also being reported that a high altitude porter may have died earlier in the night. This is an unconfirmed report, as I am having a hard time finding information on this news. If it is confirmed, that would be the second death on K2 in the last 24 hours.
Once again, I am hearing that there are anywhere from 7 to 12 climbers currently trapped above K2’s bottleneck, and below the summit. An ice serac has supposedly collapsed and severed the lines being used for safety by these climbers. At this time it is much to dangerous for these climbers to descend without the use of ropes, but if climbers can’t get to the area in a resonable amount of time, the climbers may have to take the risk or die. These climbers are trapped above 8,000 meters, which is refered to as the death zone. In that altitude your body begins to break down and eat itself of energy.
To get a better look of where the climbers are currently at, be sure to check out my previous post when this news first broke. I will have more info as it breaks. Please check back.
CLICK HERE FOR THE LATEST UPDATE
CLICK HERE TO POST YOUR THOUGHTS AND PAYERS IN REGARDS TO K2
Filed Under K2, Rescue on K2 |
Breaking News: Serbian Climber, Dren Mandic, Dies On K2, 12 Others Currently Trapped Between K2’s Bottleneck and The Summit
Image From MountEverest.net
BREAKING: Many people in the Alpine community have their eyes set on K2 tonight where tragedy has struck two climbers and 12 others have become trapped while on their summit push. K2 is the second highest peak in the world and claimed to be the world’s toughest to summit.
Over the past few days many teams have been preparing for their final push to the summit of K2. A slight weather window was to open up today, allowing many teams a one chance shot for the coveted summit. Earlier in the day, news began to break that summits were taking place on K2.
Filed Under K2 |
