Climbing News
- Update on my Mom25 August 2009, 3:46 pm
Ida Arnette passed away from Alzheimer's disease on August 16, 2009. She struggled for over 8 years and was under hospice care at the end. We celebrated her life with friends and family this past weekend. While it was expected, it is both a time of deep sadness for us and relief for her. She had lost her identity and independence towards the end. Over 5 million people have it today and it can hit anyone at any age - it is not just a disease of the elderly. There is no cure for Alzheimer's and ev... - Memories are Everything: The 7 Summits to start with Aconcagua in 201012 August 2009, 3:48 pm
I am pleased to announce new partners for Memories are Everything: The 7 Summits where we are raising $1M for Alzheimer's care support and research in partnership with the Alzheimer's Association. International Mountain Guides (IMG) will lead the climbs and Outside Online will report on the climbs thus increasing the awareness and opportunity for fund raising. The first climb will be on the highest mountain in South America, Aconcagua at 22,841 feet or 6962 meters from January 31 to February 21,... - Update on Memories are Everything: The 7 Summits for Alzheimer's24 July 2009, 3:01 pm
As summer moves on, I wanted to provide a brief update about Memories are Everything: The 7 Summits for Alzheimer's. After working for almost a year to launch the journey, we are getting there but still have some significant milestones remaining. First the progress....... - A Spring Update: Everest, Alzheimer's, The Big Project4 April 2009, 6:00 pm
As spring touches many parts of the northern hemisphere it is still winter here in Colorado albeit with 70 degree highs this week! But one thing is constant around the globe: Everest climbers are already in Kathmandu for the 2009 spring season. As has become my tradition, I am covering all the action on my site. I also want to update you on my Big Project I mentioned in the previous update....... - A Look Back at 2008 and Ahead27 December 2008, 12:20 pm
Happy New Year! With the holidays upon us, I wanted to send out a greeting along with an Alzheimer's update and a look back at an exciting year in climbing. Alzheimer's Disease - Progress but More Needed 2008 was the culmination for my Memories are Everything: The Road Back to Mount Everest project. This year long journey included 5 climbs ending with another attempt on Everest - all to raise awareness and funds for Alzheimer's research. While I didn't summit Everest, we did raise over $25,000 f...
- Medical Professionals Treating Climbing Injuries3 November 2009, 12:25 pm
The most sustained commenting I see on posts here are those related to climbing injuries. There’s also been increased activity on my post from February where I described my A2 pulley injury and the steps I began to recover. Many of the comments from other climbers related to their injury, how they’ve been treating it, and [...]... - Will Gadd on Training for Climbing9 October 2009, 3:31 pm
Will Gadd on general fitness and weight training versus climbing specific training: I’m going to get real blunt here: If you want to be a better climber then damn well go climbing. Especially a better rock climber. I would bet any amount of money that if a person spent, say, 20 hours a week training and [...]... - Quick Sends – 10/09/109 October 2009, 12:07 pm
Reports from Hounds Ears – Five Ten blog, Rock & Ice, Climbing Narc UKClimbing has an extensive overview of Yosemite climbing. Dead Point Magazine interviews Big Up Productions. Tommy Caldwell and Jeremy Collins win the fourth annual 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell in Arkansas. Alexander and Thomas Huber became the first to redpoint Eternal Flame (5.13a) on the south [...]... - Climbing Gear Review Roundup – 10/8/098 October 2009, 8:25 pm
Black Diamond Livewire Quickdraw – Water Stone Outdoors Progression – Climbing Magazine Petzl Reverso 3 belay device, Mountain Hardwear Runout climbing pants, Mammut Infinity 9.5mm rope, Black Diamond C3 cams – The Mountain World La Sportiva Speedsters – straight outta bedlam SuperTopo Guides To Zion and Tuolumne – Climbing Narc Five Ten Team rock shoes – Sicky Gnar Gnar, Climbing [...]... - Leslie Timms on Stepping Out of the Comfort Zone23 September 2009, 11:33 am
Always good to keep in mind: In order to progress, you need to continually push your limits, both mentally and physically. I have always worked up the grades one letter at a time, sticking with the grade pyramid. Yet what is the worst that could happen if you push the bar and you get in “over [...]...
- VIDEO: The 2009 Nanda Devi East and Changuch Expedition6 November 2009, 4:00 am
In June this year the British team of Paul Guest, Leon Winchester, Martin Moran and Rob Jarvis along with Indian Liaison Officer Ludar Singh made the first ascent of the striking 'Changuch' (6322m) in the Kumaon Himalaya, Northern India. The ascent included a long night of climbing and route finding up a complicated face with poor snow conditions. The reward for gaining the 5850m col was several hours chipping ice to make an 'exiguous' ledge for the bivvi tents... This is a shor... - UKC EXCLUSIVE DVD PREVIEW: Welsh Connections1 November 2009, 7:00 pm
Dave Brown has his new film out next week, Welsh Connections. It features a diverse mix of climbing and climbers all based in North Wales. Including: Pete Robins, Tim Emmett, Johnny Dawes, James McHaffie, Pete Whittaker, Nick Bullock, Chris Doyle, Chris Davies, Gav Symonds. PLUS a special extra, To The Rainbow: a film about Paul Pritchard and Johnny Dawes teaming up together as Paul makes a return to climbing 13 years after his head injury on the Totem Pole.... - Kendal Speaker Profile: Jerry Moffat on John Bachar1 November 2009, 7:00 pm
Jerry Moffatt and Niall Grimes are appearing at the Kendal Mountain Festivals this year. They will be discussing their book Revelations — Jerry Moffatt that has just won the prestigious Grand Prize at the Banff Mountain Book Festival. In this third Kendal Speaker Profile we feature a chapter from Revelations — Jerry Moffatt that describes Jerry meeting the iconic American climber, John Bachar. Also presented here, as a video, is one of the last interviews with John Bachar.... - VIDEO: A Winter Ascent of Botterill's Slab by Dave Birkett31 October 2009, 8:00 pm
Dave Birkett has had a long association with Scafell and the Lake District. Here he recounts two of his winter ascents of Botterill's Slab high on Scafell. Dave describes the nuances and fickle nature of winter climbing in the Lakes, as well as entertaining us with a video of him 'groaning and moaning' up the tight unprotected chimney of the third pitch. Botterill's Slab is "one of the best winter routes in the Lakes" and is given a modern grade of V,6. More historical information on the rout... - Aegean Afternoon29 October 2009, 8:00 pm
John Colton takes us on an exploratory solo up the east ridge of Telendos, Kalymnos. "A twisting rib emerging from nearby vegetation accessed a steep, slim nose that was bisected by a diagonal crack. Climbing it provided the only moves on the route that might be hard to reverse; finger holds small but sharp, friction for the feet and a good 15 metres above a nasty landing. My heart thumped with the effort and adrenaline as I crawled onto another shelving pile of small stones." The article is ...
- Change Of Plans6 November 2009, 6:19 am
It seems like an eternity has passed, but about a month ago I set aside a long weekend for a bouldering trip to the Southeast. The trip was to be a training mission for my trip to Hueco and my mind was full of potential projects to tick off. Unfortunately things don't always work as planned. Related posts:Destination Wish ListRed House VideoUpdates – Pringle repeats RealizationHP40 For The New YearAlabama’s Crag X UpdateMonday Morning VideoNews & Notes – 9/11/2008The Keyma... - A Sneak Peak At Between The Trees5 November 2009, 9:09 am
A few thoughts after watching the new Ty Landman bouldering movie Between The Trees Related posts:Big Up’s Progression: Sneak Peak From Kevin Jorgeson“Fifty Words…” & Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Sneak PeakKing Lines ExtrasReview: Big Up Productions’ Progression DVDAustralia Project DVD Review & SaleDr. Topo Big In Japan Double Feature DVD ReviewDosage V Review & Trailer2009 Melloblocco Results & Adam Ondra Video... - Climbing Video: James Kassay Repeating Sleepy Rave (V15)4 November 2009, 11:05 am
Footage of James Kassay repeating the long linkup of boulder problems that is Sleepy Rave (V15) in the Grampians Hollow Mountain Cave Related posts:Climbing Video: Mike McClure Repeating Peachy 13 (V13)Wheel of Life (V16) RepeatedHound Ears 2009 Video: Max Zolotukhin Repeating Random Man (V11)James Webb Sending Hard In ArkansasClimbing Video: Dan Beall Ground Up On Bishop Highball LuminanceClimbing Video: Nic Oklobzija Climbing Chumscrubber (V11) At Way LakeWheel Of Life (V16) VideoClimbin... - New Daniel Woods Blogsite4 November 2009, 7:34 am
Via B3Bouldering comes news that Daniel Woods has started a new website with a blog, pictures, video, etc. Check it out here. Related posts:Problogs: Angie Payne & Daniel WoodsDaniel Woods Arkansas Update In His Own WordsDaniel Woods Arkansas Bouldering UpdateFirst 5.14d For Daniel WoodsDaniel Woods Heating Up In Gorges du LoupOnly The “Highest Caliber Of [...] Related posts:Problogs: Angie Payne & Daniel WoodsDaniel Woods Arkansas Update In His Own WordsDaniel Woods Arkans... - Not A Bad Ticklist…For A Lifetime2 November 2009, 9:07 am
Jonathan Siegrist's ticklist at the Red River Gorge continues to grow Related posts:Jonathan Siegrist Is Motivated, Sends Lucifer (5.14c) With QuicknessRockstar Watch At The Red River Gorge: Chris Sharma Sends 2 5.14s, 5.15 On The Horizon??...
- The Beta - Brutus by:Andrew Kornylak
Ashley Dorough shows us climbing with grace in a beautifully shot segment of The Beta.... - The Beta - Super Mario by:Andrew Kornylak
Andy Wellman takes on Super Mario V4 and Mystery Groove V4 in part of The Beta series.... - Forte Trailer by:Flashed
Dai and Hirotaro take a European trip to some of the most amazing bouldering destinations such as Cresciano, Chironico, Fontainbleau, and Magic Wood. Dai boulders at a level that most people can only dream of. In the process he checks off some of the continents hardest problems and establishes one of Japan’s hardest bouldering problems to date.... - Royal Arch by:TJO
Flatirons - Royal Arch Music by: Dan Deacon Using GoPro HERO Wide http://www.goprocamera.com... - October winner of the Xtreme Video of the Month Powered by XYIENCE by:Joe Kreidel
Team Tuesday Climbing presents Joe & Kerry on a few fun problems at the Big Bend Boulders on River Road outside Moab, Utah....
- Yoga and Rock Climbing Retreat
Tucson, Arizona -- Tucson based Adventure Consulting and Leadership Development firm announces their fall dates for the Mindfulness and Movement Retreat. This three day all-inclusive yoga, rock climbing, and meditation Retreat takes place November 13 - 15, 2009 at Cochise Stronghold, AZ in the Dragoon mountains (75 miles east of Tucson, AZ). This weekend retreat offers participants the opportunity to connect yoga, meditation, and rock climbing in a fun and supportive environment. We will util... - SportsVision Hosts Group Session at Climb North
For all who are visually impaired! Family members are welcome! SportsVision is hosting a 2-hour private group session with belyaers at Climb North in Wildwood. Included with your attendance is: exclusive use of the facility, climbing harnesses, climbing helmets, basic instructions, and at least 1 instructor for every 4-6 climbers. The event details are as follows: Saturday, November 14, 2009 10:00 am - Noon Climb North 2468 Wildwood Road Wildwood, PA 15091 Phone: 412.487.2145 Email: climbn... - Daniel Arnold's Early Days in the Range of Light
It's 1873. Modern climbing gear and Gore-Tex are a century away, but the high mountains still demand your attention. Imagine the stone in your hands and thousands of feet of open air below you, with only a wool jacket to weather a storm and no rope to catch a fall. Daniel Arnold did more than imagine - he spent four years retracing the precarious steps of his climbing forefathers, and lived to tell their riveting stories in Early Days in the Range of Light. From 1864 to 1931, the Sierra Nevada ... - BOSG Promotes from Within
Boulder, COLO - The Boulder Outdoor Specialty Group (BOSG) continues to elevate the level of service provided to dealers of Kelty, Kelty KIDS, Sierra Designs, Slumberjack, Ultimate Direction and Wenger by promoting Morgan Newlon to Customer Service Supervisor and adding three new Customer Service Representatives. Under Newlon's leadership, each member of the Customer Service Department will work directly with dealers in specific territories to build lasting relationships while setting the benc... - Access Fund's Wild & Scenic Environmental Filmfest
Boulder, Colorado - The Access Fund, the national advocacy organization that keeps U.S. climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment, is set to host the Wild & Scenic Environmental Film Festival in Berkeley, California, on Thursday, November 12th, 2009. The Wild & Scenic Film Festival is a night of inspiring environmental films and a celebration of the environment, complete with a lively pre-party, live music, beer and an auction. Special guest and pro climber Timmy O'Neill will em...
- Hayden Miller’s journeis through the Northwest6 November 2009, 1:35 pm
“Having completed my geology major at Colorado College, I decided last spring to take the fall semester off and just climb. My travels so far have taken me from the Northwest, through California, and into Utah. There, I spent three weeks in the boulder’s paradise of Joe’s Valley. Having made many trips out to Joe’s [...]... - Ethan Pringle’s “Postcards from Paradise” - A Weekend in Tuolumne (10/16-18/09)5 November 2009, 3:44 pm
Hello and welcome to my first installment of “Postcards from Paradise”… no I did not come up with this title. Like all my good “ideas”, I stole it from a surf flick. Either way, I’m going to use this blog to document my weekend trips for the next several months as I make it out [...]... - Five Ten® Freeriders Slackline5 November 2009, 12:12 pm
With sticky Stealth® outsoles and a flat tread bottom, Five Ten® Freeriders are ideal for slacklining. Gibbon Slacklines and Five Ten® Freeriders make an unbeatable combination. Check them out in action here... - Jim Williams: The Risk-Reward Equation4 November 2009, 7:20 pm
The Risk-Reward Equation, created for the Explorers Club Lowell Thomas Award. See the video here Jim Williams using Five Ten® Camp Fours to help in his explorations.... - Robot wears Five Ten®4 November 2009, 5:50 pm
Climbers wear Five Ten®, BASE jumpers wear Five Ten®, Downhill Mountain Bikers wear Five Ten®… now this robot from Boston Dynamics is wearing the Five Ten® Coyote. Check out the video....
- Briton plunges to death in climbing accident - Times Online8 November 2009, 2:39 am
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- Holiday airfares close to last year but climbing - WLOS8 November 2009, 2:21 am
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- Climbing out of the Valley - Charleston Post Courier8 November 2009, 1:35 am
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- Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain - New York Times7 November 2009, 12:14 am
... - UK Stocks Rise, Extending Weekly Gain; British Airways Climbs - Bloomberg6 November 2009, 1:25 pm
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- Matt Wilder Sends 5.14 Trad Route on Devil's Thumb5 November 2009, 7:23 am
The Devil's Thumb, sometimes called Toponas, its Indian name, poses high above Boulder, Colorado, on the southeast ridge of Bear Peak. The crooked digit, usually climbed by a short, amenable route (5.7) up its east side, offers an imposing north wall of overhanging sandstone sliced by diagonalling roofs and intermittent cracks that was climbed with aid by the late Kyle Copeland and Scott Sounders in 1981. In one of this year's best efforts on American stone, Matt Wilder cranked the steep face ... - What's the Best American Climbing Area? Vote Now!2 November 2009, 6:19 am
What's the best American climbing area? I posted a poll last week on the About.com Climbing Forum. Go there and cast your ballot for your favorite. It's hard to decide which is the best climbing area in the United States. Lots of excellent climbing areas scatter around this vast country. Back in the 1970s it wasn't hard to decide the best arenas for rock climbing. The Big Three--Yosemite Valley, Eldorado Canyon, and the Shawangunks--were simply the best, the places where cutting edge routes wer... - UIAA Releases New Braking Device Standards for Climbing Gear29 October 2009, 11:42 am
The UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) Safety Commission recently released its first safety standards for braking devices used for belaying and rappelling after working with device manufacturers over the last ten years. The standards include parameters for device performance as well as stringent testing guidelines so that devices can receive coveted UIAA approval. Belay and rappel devices are crucial pieces of safety gear that climbers use every day, having these new safet... - Learn How to Rig a Carabiner Brake for Rappelling24 October 2009, 4:46 pm
You're out climbing in Yosemite Valley and five pitches up your latest route you take your belay and rappel device off your harness to pull the rope out after belaying your buddy up the last pitch. Before you know it, it's slipped from your hand and you see the device bouncing down the wall below...ping, ping, ping and it's off into the forest at the base. Do you know how to rappel off a climb if you accidently drop, lose, or forget your rappel device? There are a few ways to get down, includin... - October's New Hard Routes in Wales, Germany, and France20 October 2009, 7:26 am
October's been a good month so far for European climbers. This time of the year in Europe is generally dry and mild with cooler temperatures which are perfect for hard cranking. In North Wales, 52-year-old Stevie Haston returned to Craig Dorys at the Lleyn Peninsula and climbed two more major new lines. Earlier this year, Haston established two difficult and scary routes--Bam, Bam and Harmony--up the steep and loose cliff. The new routes, put up with Leigh McGinley, are just as hard and just as...
- Dean Potter on NBC this Sunday5 November 2009, 2:00 am
The World of Adventure Sports Series on NBC will host Dean Potter Sunday, November 8th.... - Unclimbed No More: North Face of Wedge Peak5 November 2009, 2:00 am
Nick Bullock, Andy Houseman summit Wedge Peak, alpine style, doing a 4,921-foot route.... - Apa, Dawa Sherpa Headline Mountain Day in Copenhagen4 November 2009, 2:00 am
Climb for Life will host Apa and Dawa Sherpa in Copenhagen to support effects of climate change in Nepal.... - VIDEO: Triple Crown3 November 2009, 2:00 am
Two classic boulder problems at Stone Fort... - Canadian Women Free Moonlight Buttress3 November 2009, 2:00 am
Jasmin Caton and Jen Olson become second all women team to free climb the Moonlight Buttress...
- Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!7 November 2009, 9:00 am
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- International Mountain Day - Index Fundraiser - 12/11/096 November 2009, 9:00 am
... - Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- November 5, 20095 November 2009, 9:00 am
... - Conditions Report -- November 4, 20094 November 2009, 9:00 am
... - Route Profile - Johnny Vegas3 November 2009, 9:00 am
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- SUMMIT ON THE SUMMIT Ad Hits the Airwaves5 November 2009, 3:09 pm
Hewlett Packard, expedition technology partner for SUMMIT ON THE SUMMIT: Kilimanjaro, launched a new television ad campaign this week bringing attention to the global water crisis and feature Kenna, Lupe Fiasco and Alexandra Cousteau. As the official expedition outfitter for SUMMIT ON THE SUMMIT: Kilimanjaro, First Ascent will follow the team as they prepare for the [...]... - Backpacker Names First Ascent Bat Hang Hoodie ‘Most Versatile’ Baselayer3 November 2009, 8:41 pm
Backpacker magazine dubs First Ascent Bat Hang Hoodie ‘most versatile’ baselayer on the market in their November issue. Backpacker’s field tester stated, “I love the comfort range. With the hood down, it’s like a microfleece shirt. With the hood on, it’s almost as warm as a thin puffy jacket. And the deep chest zipper and [...]... - First Ascent and Melissa Arnot Top Ama Dablam at 22,348 Feet2 November 2009, 12:48 pm
Around 9 a.m., in the wind and freezing cold, Cory, Chhewang and I stood on top of Ama Dablam at 22,348 feet. The sun was just cresting the summit and the wind made it feel frigid and inhospitable. Around us, we could see amazing views of Everest, Makalu, Lhotse and many other beautiful Himalayan peaks. We [...]... - Excitement Builds as Arnot Prepares to Summit Ama Dablam30 October 2009, 8:13 pm
As we set up our base camp, I am filled with the excitement of what lies ahead. I know it will be hard. I have seen two teams leave from Ama Dablam, unable to summit because of adverse snow conditions and weather. Somehow, that excites me more. Cory and I ration out the number of ramen [...]... - Annapolis Students Save Big on Saturday, Nov 730 October 2009, 5:25 pm
On Saturday, November 7, from 4-6 p.m., Eddie Bauer is hosting a special event exclusively for students and midshipmen in the Annapolis, Maryland area. Students can gear up for winter at the new Eddie Bauer store in the Westfield Annapolis Mall. Present a college or high school ID at the door and have a chance [...]...
- The Remotest Place on Earth6 November 2009, 12:39 pm
... - Thursday Thought: The Oft-Forgotten H. W. "Bill" Tilman5 November 2009, 2:33 pm
... - The Basics of Altitude: A Primer on AMS, HACE, & HAPE4 November 2009, 5:59 pm
... - Anthropographia - Human Rights in Images3 November 2009, 11:02 am
... - Thursday Thought: Criticism, Conservation, & Politics by Teddy Roosevelt29 October 2009, 3:52 pm
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