When we had visited Gold River back in May we were incredibly disappointed to find that at the end of one of the nicest drives on Vancouver Island was a little town with no soul. Ha! More fool us. To be truthful, there isn’t a lot there to do if you don’t like the outdoors, but it is right on the edge of Strathcona Provincial Park - BC’s oldest and second biggest park - fantastic for hiking, wilderness backpacking, camping, fishing and hunting.

It also is nestled on the banks of two big, clear rivers - Gold and Huber - which I’m told are good for fishing and kayaking as well as for swimming, paddling and cliff-jumping in the summer.

Not far out of town, a few Kms down easy logging roads, you can find several recreational lakes that in any other part of BC would be crowded on a sunny summer Sunday afternoon, yet we had both of the lakes we visited - Antler Lake and Star Lake - entirely to ourselves. Star Lake, a short drive upwards from town, was gorgeously warm as well, being snow-fed rather than glacier-fed, which was why there was a swimming dock there that my husband couldn’t help jumping off stark naked.

There’s a really great hiking trail - The Peppercorn Trail - right in town, alongside the river, and 16 Kms down the road to Tahsis you can explore Upana caves if the desire so grabs you (I’m not into dark, mosquito filled little caverns myself). All in all the area was an absolute delight to explore and we were so pleasantly surprised with it all that it once again moved onto the list of places that we might possibly want to retire to (real estate is dead cheap there too!).

One night we went to the pub next to our motel (the only pub in town) and got chatting to some new locals who had moved to Gold River very recently. We sat on the deck overlooking the glorious view of the surrounding mountains and waxed lyrical about what a wonderful and peaceful place it was to live in, and how we were pleased that it doesn’t cross many people’s minds to even visit, let alone stay long enough to appreciate its true beauty and discover the hidden pulse.

Since the mill closed down hardly anyone who isn’t a fisherman, logger or resident visits the place and while some added tourism would certainly revitalise the town’s economy, it’s a big question as to whether it is needed. I think he charm of the place lies in keeping its assets a secret from those who don’t actually bother to come and look at the place for themselves. For those who do take the time to stay a while the rewards are plentiful.