Having used up all my feral hog sausage it was time to explore the freezer…

Earlier this year I used my last sacred package of feral hog breakfast sausage from P&P Deer Processing in Coalgate, OK.  It was celebratory and mournful all at once.  We connected with P&P from nearby Shiloh Ranch Hunting Camp where we hunted the tusky varmints for a couple of years.  Other pursuits have diverted us, but my preference for the tasty sausage has not diminished.  I like to pre-cook and freeze a pound of patties on Sunday and eat them throughout the week for breakfast.  With a little 2007 and quite a bit of 2008 venison as well as a little javelina meat from this year’s Texas adventure, Boar Attack – Anatomy Of A Hog Shot Gone Wrong, in the freezer I thought it was time to give breakfast sausage making a try. 

I’ve made ground meat jerky and snack sticks for years so I didn’t think it would be much of a stretch into breakfast sausage.  The directions on the LEM brand seasoning package called for cutting the venison with at least 20% pork so I asked mrs. dustyvarmint to pick up a slightly larger than one pound, well-marbled roast from the store.  One could probably not mix in the pork or other fat, but the end product would be very, very dry.  Since grinding slightly frozen meat helps to maintain lower processing temperatures and helps produce a better final product I froze the roast.  Later I pulled out the roast and slightly more than four pounds of venison from the freezer and let them partially thaw in the refrigerator.  I sliced them up into large strips for grinding and mixed the pork with the venison.  

Pork and venison, LEM brand sausage seasoning and ground meat packaging tubes.

Next, I ground the meat up making sure the venison and pork were well mixed.  Following the package directions, one teaspoon of seasoning was mixed with one ounce of cold water for every pound of meat.  Hands are really the best tool for mixing here, but boy does that get cold! 

The pork and venison ground.  (Sssshhh, don’t tell mrs. dustyvarmint her nice bamboo cutting board is being used as a riser for the grinder!)

I really like slicing up patties from partially thawed tubes of the sausage as shown below.  Not totally necessary, but very handy.  They go right in the skillet after that.  I was worried that my stuffer’s largest tube wouldn’t be big enough to fill the packages properly, but that turned out to be unfounded.  The first package turned out at about one-and-one-half pounds, but I got the hang of it after that.  The results are pictured below.

Stuffing the sausage packages. 

Finished sausage packages.

I couldn’t help myself, but to give it a try, so I waited just long enough for one package to partially freeze, sliced it up and put a fire under it.  It turned out quite… tasty.  A little crushed red pepper would probably be a good addition, but the test batch is out of the way.  While I prefer my chili, taco and burger grind to be really fine I think a slightly chunkier texture would be more appropriate for this sausage. 

When coupled with mrs. dustyvarmint’s drop biscuits the sausage was quite tasty…

Clean Up

All the grinder and stuffer components as well as the knives, cutting boards and other accessories get a nice hot water and soap bath as well as a chlorine dip after use.  Hopefully, that’ll keep the varmints (not the dusty ones) out.    

Equipment Used

mrs. dustyvarmint has been very kind to me with processing equipment over time.  Both the grinder and stuffer came from Gander Mountain on Black Friday sales – about $100 between the two.  The grinder has processed many deer, hogs and other wild game as well as domestic critters from time to time.  The stuffer produces snack sticks and other kinds of sausage as well as handling the packaging this time.  The meat tubs are actually dish pans, under $5 from Target, that fit in my refrigerator better than commercial versions.

happy hunting, dv

If you liked this blog you may like the following: 

• Outfitter Report – Javelina And Hogs In Texas
• Boar Attack – Anatomy Of A Hog Shot Gone Wrong
• Pronghorn – Rained Out
• dustyvarmint’s Best Black Bean Huntin’ Chili

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I’d like to hear your tips, feedback, comments or questions.  Please leave them below.  

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Printed on a broadhead package, “Field Point Flight.”  I have no doubt. 

Spoken by a bowhunter, “My broadheads don’t fly like my field points.”  Really?  How do they fly?  They just fall out of the bow?  They defy gravity?  What? 

From my point-of-view all broadheads fly just like field points – right through the air.  Now, whether or not they have the same Point Of Impact (POI) down range may be an entirely different story.  That’s really good marketing subterfuge.  Stating that a broadhead has the same POI would really be definitive.  Stating that it has field point flight is rather ambiguous. 

A number of dissimilar events have brought this to the forefront of my mind lately.  One, I purchased some new 100 grain, 1 1/4″ cut, Slick Trick brand GrizzTricks to try out.  Two, I stumbled on this broadhead flight testing video by Pro Release (follow this link and see the MUCC video on the lower left).  Three, I need to prepare for a mid-August pronghorn hunt.  4) While devastating and fatal on every critter I’ve ever shot one into, I haven’t gotten the penetration I’d like on whitetail bucks with my 100 grain, 1 3/4″ cut Wasp Jakhammers (although I’d choose no other head for turkey). 

The Pro Release broadhead flight test video linked to above is fascinating.  I can’t get it out of my mind.  To the best of my recollection every broadhead I’ve ever shot that didn’t hit to the same field point POI did, indeed, hit left and/or low. 

So, what can we do if our broadheads don’t hit the same POI?  Below are many of the options I’ve read, seen discussed or used along with my discussion on them. 

1)  Cry and/or kick a tree (maybe in reverse order).  I use and suggest this in combination with other options.   

2)  Re-tune field points and try again.  To me, this is a waste of time.  I don’t agree with the statement, “If your bow is properly tuned you should get same field point POI with your broadheads.”  That is actually a bonus.

3)  Tune your broadheads.  You can see a video description of this procedure from Magnus Broadheads here.

4)  Using a spin tester check to make sure your broadheads are aligned properly to the axis of the arrow.  Apply slight pressure to the tips of offending broadheads to align them and try again.  I do believe very much in making sure my broadhead is properly aligned, but using pressure to “fix” the alignment is a fragile solution at best.  One shot into the target and you’ll likely have to try it again.

5)  If you are still shooting aluminum arrows with hot-melt-glue-installed-inserts try rotating the broadhead and insert incrementally and re-shooting.  I’m not suggesting aligning the broadhead blades to the fletching, just finding a sweet spot.  When still using aluminum arrows I adopted this option from Dave Holt’s Balanced Bowhunting to good effect.   

6)  Utilize two sights.  One sighted in for broadheads, one for field points.  Obviously, switching out sights can be problematic and less than convenient.

7)  Sight in with broadheads.  If I’m short on time or don’t want to use option 7 then this is what I do after spin testing.  I will make “witness” marks on my sight so I can adjust between broadhead and field point POI.

8)  Adjust to broadhead POI.  Follow the below procedure to make broadheads and field points hit the same POI.  Again, this was adopted from Dave Holt’s Balanced Bowhunting.  If you are like me the voice in the back of your head is saying, “But what happened to the bullet holes I was shooting with field points?”  I’m with you and I’ve never seen a good answer, but I have seen blood trails and whacked animals.  In the end, that is what is important to me.

-If the broadhead hits left, move the rest right.

-If the broadhead hits right, move the rest left.

-If the broadhead hits low, move the rest up or nocking point down. 

-If the broadhead hits high, move the rest down or nocking point up.

-Re-sight with field points and broadheads.

My initial shooting shows the POI of my new GrizTricks is to the left of my field points.  I’ll be moving my sight to compensate for this.  By the way, if you haven’t broken out and test shot your broadheads for this upcoming season then you are definitely behind the ball. 

happy bowhunting, dv

If you liked this blog you may like the following:

How To – Prepare a European Skull Mount 

For the hunter (like dustyvarmint) on a modest income the European skull mount, done tastefully, can preserve your trophy and memories in a low cost, classy manner.  Whether you have the fortitude to do this in the house (both preparing and displaying) or not is between you and your significant other… 

1)  After harvest care – I usually bring my harvested critter’s head back and put it in the freezer in a trash bag until I get time to deal with it.  Antler and horn size can be a problem and may dictate that you deal with the skull sooner rather than later.  Letting it lay out is not good.  Natural decomposition can begin to break down structures such as the bones surrounding the nose.  When I know I’ll have time I lay it out to thaw and then get to work.

dv’s Time Out Corner:  Label your bag!  While cleaning some carp from my freezer I accidentally threw out my very first boar harvest skull.  Every time I look at the sow skull that eventually replaced it I look down in disappointment. 

2)  Remove skin and excess tissue – Using a sharp knife get as much of the tissue off as you can.  If the skull is rather odiferous I’ll use a paper respirator with a few drops of vanilla or perfume to manage the gag reflex.  I also like to wear rubber gloves while handling the skull.

3)  Wrap antlers or horns – The water can change antler color and soften horns so use plastic bags and tape to wrap them.  A stick tied across antlers and horns in the right location and rested against the pot rim will keep them out of the water. 

3)  Simmer the skull – Add one cup +or- of sal soda to a large pot of water.  Sal soda is also known as Borax and available in the laundry soap section of your local everything store.  Heat until the water is just at a simmer.  I do this over a camp stove in the garage.  Judicious use of heat is important.  It is possible to boil the fat into the skull.  This yellowish off-color can be nearly impossible to remove.  After one hour of simmering remove the skull from the water and let cool.  Then use a thin blade knife to remove as much of the remaining tissue as possible and to “scramble” the contents of the cranial cavity.  A hook made from a coat hanger helps clean the cranial cavity.  Use pliers to remove as much as possible inside the nasal cavity.  Separate the jaws from the skull. 

Change the water and be sure to add another cup +or- of sal soda.  Simmer the skull for one hour longer.  Remove and let cool.  The majority of all remaining tissue should come off and out at this point.  Some will require a little more elbow grease than others.  If something really persists a hosing off with a high pressure hose at your local car wash will do the trick.  However, I recommend timing your visit for their “off” hours.  Also, be careful not to lose any teeth from the skull. 

Alternate method 1, “maceration” – Rather than boiling the skull you may want to use the maceration method which involves soaking the skull in water for a long period of time allowing bacteria to break down the bond between the tissues.  The advantage of this method is that it is unlikely to cook the fat into the bone.  The disadvantage is that it can be quite smelly and disgusting.  Visit the Skulls and Skeletons forum at Taxidermy.net for more information. 

Alternate method 2, “bugs” – Dermestid beetles do a great job cleaning skulls and are what museums typically use, but maintenance of a colony may be beyond the casual home skull processor.

4)  Degrease the skull – Put the skull in a plastic bucket or pan and cover with a sufficient quantity of household ammonia.  As an alternative use a heavy mixture of dish detergent (Dawn) and water.  Let soak at least 48 hours or longer for trouble-some grease spots.  Sometimes, unfortunately, they just won’t come out, but in my experience this is more common with fatty critters like swine than leaner ones like deer.  When ready rinse clean and allow the skull to dry thoroughly.    

5)  Bleaching the skull – Obtain 40 volume peroxide and (product name Basic White) from your local beauty supply (aka Sally).  The smallest quantities for sale are enough to do multiple deer sized skulls.  Some will say the 3% peroxide available at your local everything store is sufficient.  I disagree and usually have too many irons in the fire to do something more than once.  Note that the use of chlorine bleach will lead to later regret as it breaks down bone structure and eventually yellows.  I remember a savvy lady lecturing me in my youth that I had, “killed the spirit,” of a particular batch of coyote skulls with bleach. 

Mixing the 40 volume peroxide and fixer according to the package directions will result in a thick paste that can be applied with an old paint brush.  Apply heavily in a location with sufficient ventilation.  Allow to dry 24-48 hours.  Rinse off.  Once again, allow the skull to dry in the sun for at least 72 hours.

6)  Remove any hair around antlers and horns – Sometimes there will be hair left at the base of antlers and horns.  I use a small torch, moving quickly, to “trim” this hair off.

7)  Seal – If desired, seal the skull.  Currently I like to leave my skulls unfinished or unsealed.  Just my preference.  It can be dipped in a fifty-fifty mix of white glue (Elmer’s) or sprayed with a clear acrylic available in spray cans from your local everything store.

At this point you should have a beautiful, blindingly white skull ready to be displayed on a pedestal or plaque or displayed on a table.  I’ve experimented with different woods for pedestal mounts and very much prefer the contrast of darker woods such as walnut over that of lighter options such as cherry or gum.

A recently completed javelina skull. 

This whitetail skull was one of the first I did after really learning how to do it right.  I think it turned out well.

This pronghorn skull also turned out well.

I inadvertentnly boiled the fat into this sow skull.  I have yet to attempt degreasing it with ammonia.

happy hunting, dv

If you liked this blog you may like the following:

• How To – Make Your Own Turkey Friction Call
• How To – Make Your Own Turkey Friction Call – Part 2
• How To – Make Your Own Turkey Friction Call – Part 3 

Feedback, Questions & Comments

I’d like to hear your tips, feedback, comments or questions.  Please leave them below.  

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Part Three of a Three Part Series

This is the final part of a three part series on making the “pot” portion of your own turkey friction call.   You can find Part 1 here and Part 2 here.  There will be another series on making the striker.

Safety
Be sure to follow all eye, ear, and body part control safety precautions when working in the shop.

15) I’ve formed the rim, sanded from 150-220 and marked some lines for grooves I’ll cut with the skew and burn in with some wire.  Then I sand to 320.  I’ve also applied two coats of cellulose sanding sealer to the inside. Read the rest of this entry »

Part Two of a Three Part Series

This is part 2 of a three part series on making the “pot” portion of your own turkey friction call.   You can find Part 1 here.  There will be another series on making the striker.

Safety
Be sure to follow all eye, ear, and body part control safety precautions when working in the shop. Read the rest of this entry »

First of a Three Part Series

This is the first of a three part series on making the “pot” portion of your own turkey friction call.   There will be another series on making the striker.

Terminology

First off, I don’t like the name “friction call”.  Box calls, scratch boxes and pots and strikers (what I am making here), among others, are all friction calls.  Similarly, “slates” don’t cover it all either.  There are crystal, glass, aluminum, copper, slate and other surfaces available.  Here I’ll refer to them as “pots and strikers”.

Secrecy

I think it is illegal to share these instructions in several southeastern states, so please keep the contents of the following to yourself. Read the rest of this entry »

The Call Doesn’t Make Much Sound

I looked at the call in my hand incredulously.  I kept silent out of respect for a fellow hunter and in the interest of passing on the hunting tradition.  He said it didn’t make much sound.  I wasn’t surprised.  I held a M.A.D. Heavy Metal turkey call.  Someone had attempted to “condition” the recessed portion of its back side.  I dug a Primos Slick Stick from my fanny pack and conditioned the call’s pristine striking surface.  The sounds were much more “turkey like” then.

To “Condition” the Call

To get consistent sound from our glass friction or “pot” calls we must keep them conditioned.  People often don’t know what I mean when I say “conditioned”.  I’m talking about breaking that hard, clear crust on the glass and giving it some texture so that the striker has something to “play” against and make turkey sounds.  We need a couple of things for this.  I condition a lot of calls every year and highly recommend the previously mentioned Slick Stick pictured below.  Read the rest of this entry »

“Take care of all your memories for you can never relive them,” Bob Dylan.

I think a lot of bowhunters focus on the bow, arrows, rest and other cool equipment, but don’t necessarily put a lot of thought into taking pictures after the trophy is on the ground.  Here it is important to note that when I say “trophy” I mean ANY animal harvested with archery equipment regardless of sex or head gear.  From a personal stand point I am very sorry I didn’t pay more attention to recording my memories.  The older I get the more important this becomes.  The three photos below represent a progression in how much attention I have paid to this.  The results are self-explanatory. 

Not so good memories...

Better...

Best of the 3.

Read the rest of this entry »