I recently saw a web forum thread where the bowhunter professed frustration over his recent Wisconsin state land whitetail hunting experience due to equipment regulations.  Treestands on Wisconsin state lands must be removed each day and the use of screw-in steps is prohibited.  So, both a stand and some method for scaling the tree must be packed in and out.  I’ve also been on out-of-state hunts where I wanted a highly portable set-up for quickly adapting to deer movement or new scouting information.  I’m used to this way of hunting and now prefer it having used screw in steps only once in my 16 years of hunting from an elevated stand.  However, packing in a stand, steps and possibly a pack and extra clothing, for anything but a short distance, can leave a bowhunter tired, sweaty, and like our friend, frustrated.  Here are a few tips I have come up with over the years for both hang-on and climbing stands.  

Shoulder Straps – A decade-and-a-half ago you were lucky if your stand came with pack straps at all.  If it did they were usually only a couple of lengths of one-inch wide nylon strapping.  I don’t remember any aftermarket straps being available.  Times change.  Now some stands come with shoulder straps and there are aftermarket ones available.  I took a quick look at some outdoor retailers and found simple padded straps priced from $14-20.  

However, my favorite is the shoulder strap set from a military surplus MOLLE pack.  e-bay is a great place to find them for around $20 including shipping.  The price is comparable to commercially available straps, but I believe the MOLLE straps are infinitely superior.  Each side is individually adjustable for different body sizes and clothing layers, there are left/right load adjusters, 5 straps attach to the stand and a sternum strap is included.  Additionally, the straps contain left/right quick disconnects should your stand and pack be on fire or a bobcat attacks you.

The MOLLE system on a Lone Wolf Sit & Climb Stand and a Lone Wolf Alpha Assault.

Before discovering the MOLLE straps my favorite was the old military surplus ALICE LCII pack straps.  They come as a pair, one fitted left and one fitted right, each with an adjustment cam for use with different clothing layers, a quick-disconnect for easy load shedding (fire/bobcats…) and are fitted for right and left.  I think these are also better than the commercially available straps.  Typically they run in the $14-20 range, but I found a set the other day with the ALICE pack for $8.

ALICE straps on a Gorilla Scout stand.  Note the added sternum strap.

Waist Belt – Just like on a regular pack, a waist belt that carries the burden of the load on your waist/hips vice your shoulders is the coup-de-grace (or the cat’s meow, whatever…).  Anyway, I could never figure out how to adapt the ALICE waist belt to a stand and although I could attach the pack-frame with the waist belt I just didn’t like that set up.    However, the MOLLE waist belt easily attaches to most stands without problem.  I don’t even notice the weight of the stand on my back any more.  

Sternum Strap – Regardless of which shoulder straps you choose, a sternum strap across your chest prevents them from sliding off your shoulders.  The MOLLE straps come with one, after market ones are available for the ALICE straps or you can fashion one from two pieces of eight inch long by one-half inch wide nylon strapping and a nylon quick disconnect clip.  Thread one-half of the quick disconnect clip onto each piece of the strap and sew the strap ends together with heavy duty thread.  Then slide one-half of the completed chest strap onto each strap.  The best bet is to sew them in place, but that isn’t totally necessary.  If you use the ALICE shoulder straps there is a handy location for the chest straps right behind the adjustment cams. 

A MOLLE system installed and in use as viewed from the front when worn.  Note the sternum strap.

 

Stand Weight – When shopping for a stand you want to consider its total weight and capacity.  Choose a stand that you can carry for long distances, but also make sure it can carry you.  As a comparison, when I first started treestand hunting I used an all steel twenty-two pound stand.  Then I switched to an eleven pound all aluminum stand.  Quite a difference. 

I primarily use two stands, a Lone Wolf Alpha Assault coupled with four Lone Wolf Climbing Sticks, 21 pounds combined weight, and a Lone Wolf Sit and Climb, 20 pounds.  I loaded both of them up just as I would hunt with them, including extra cold weather clothing and small pack as pictured below, and found that they both weighed 30 pounds. 

The stands are loaded up and ready to hit the woods with small pack and extra clothes.  Note the climbing sticks on the Alpha Assault, right, and the bungy cords.

 

Silence! – None of us wants to pack a stand that sounds like a spare parts store hit by a tornado.  Isolate and fix any unwanted sounds coming from your stand.  The seat on my previous stand liked to bang against the platform with each step.  It was so loud it even scared me on those long, dark morning and evening walks.  I learned to flip the seat cushion over when packing it in and tie the platform to the support columns so there was no free movement when I was walking.   The cord stayed tied to the platform so I didn’t lose it and it doesn’t seem to get in the way when the stand is in use.  Both my Lone Wolf stands can make a little walking noise, but quiet down when a couple of bungy cords tighten everything up.

The seat is flipped over and tied to the platform to minimize carry noise.

 The cord tied to the platform doesn’t interfere with stand use.

 

Quiver – If you are a hunter who likes to use a detachable quiver you may want to consider purchasing an extra bracket and mounting it on your stand’s platform so your arrows are always ready.

Retrieval Rope – Have you ever tried to untangle your coiled bow retrieval rope in the dark?  Good luck.  Instead, wrap it around a small wire or thin wood frame.  Then simply reel it off.  Make sure you re-stow it after each use.  For that matter, do the same with tree steps, flashlights, etc.  The last thing you want to do when you get back to camp is go back through your gear.

Wrapping the retrieval rope around a frame keeps it untangled and ready to use.

Extra Clothing – If you hike in more than a couple hundred yards you are likely to be pretty sweaty by the time you arrive at your tree.  Consider wearing the bare essentials while hiking and strap the rest to your stand with some bungy cords. 

Footwear – In cold weather, consider a set of soft, insulated boot covers that can be carried in and put on while in your stand vice wearing heavy pac boots that leave you exhausted and your feet sweaty. 

Zippers – The little tabs on packs can be hard to find in the dark and even harder in the dark when your fingers are frozen or covered with gloves or mittens.  Using some cord, such as parachute cord, or some leather scraps, craft some two to three inch long lanyards and attach them to the zipper tabs on your pack.  These work well on trouser flies, jackets, bibs and overalls as well.

Tabs make it easier to find zippers in the dark and when it is cold.

Headlamp – A headlamp is a handy way to free up one hand from carrying a flashlight.  See my review of the Energizer 3 LED Headlight here. 

Fitness – One final note.  Before attempting to pack in all this stuff on opening day, engage in some sort of fitness plan over the summer.  Here is a link to one of mine, Get In Shape – Keep It Simple Bowhunter.

happy hunting, dv

If you liked this blog you may like the following:  

Hamming With Game Cams

Photographing Your Hunting Trophies

No Bird Left Behind - A Turkey Tale

Outfitter Report – Javelina And Hogs In Texas

Boar Attack – Anatomy Of A Hog Shot Gone Wrong

Pronghorn – Rained Out

Feedback, Questions & Comments

I’d like to hear your tips, feedback, comments or questions.  Please leave them below.  

Subscribe 

Like this blog? Want to be notified of updates? Subscribe via RSS feed by clicking here.

 

With the Wisconsin whitetail deer season just five days away I’m busy getting my gear ready.  So, I thought I’d share my Whitetail Hunting Gear List.  Due to Wordpress, the Skinny Moose blog engine, limitations I can’t post a good sample of my Excel check off lists here.  If you want those that I have for whitetail, turkey and pronghorn drop me a comment with your e-mail address or drop me an e-mail from my About page.  I’ll get them off to you. 

 

Hunting

Arrows, 12

Binoculars

Blind, T2

Bow

Broadheads

Bug Spray

Climbing stand

Climbing sticks

Coleman Lantern

Compass

Decoy

Deer Cart

Deer Grunter

Extra stand seat pad

Fillet Knife

Flashlight, hunting

GPS

Machete

Malt

Range Finder

Release, Caliper

Release, Scott

Sharpeners

Skinning Knives

Tree stand

Turkey Calls

Walking Stick

 

Clothing, Hunting                 

Belt

Bibs

Boots x ___

Jacket x ___

Miscellaneous T-shirts, etc.

Pants, regular camo x ___

Shirt, regular camo x ___

Socks x ___

Underwear x ___

Winter Boots

 

Other

Allergy & Headache Meds

Book/s or magazines

Camera & Batteries

Cell Phone

Deoderant

Diaper cloths

Hygiene Bag

Ipod & Headphones

Razor, Electric

Shower shoes

Toothbrush

Toothpaste

Towel

Video Camera

Wallet & Money

 

Camp

Blanket

Bowls

Coffee Press

Coolers x ___

Cups x 2

Hot plate

Ice

Nalgene bottle

Paper towels

Pillow

Plates

Sheet

Sleeping bag

Trash bags

Utensils

 

Food

Animal Crackers

Coffee

Fruit

Jerky

Kashi bars

GORP

Oatmeal

Snack Sticks

Soda

Water

 

Clothes, Regular

Belt

Bibs & Heavy Coat

Fleece Hat

Gloves

Hat

Sneakers

Jacket

Pajamas

Rain Top

Shirts x ___

Socks x ___

Trousers x ___

Underwear x ___

 

happy hunting, dv

 

If you liked this blog you may like the following:

 

Pronghorn Hunt Gear Checklist

Food Plots At Camp Pug

Photographing Your Hunting Trophies

 

Feedback, Questions & Comments 

I’d like to hear your tips, feedback, comments or questions.  Please leave them below.  

 

Subscribe
Like this blog? Want to be notified of updates? Subscribe via RSS feed by clicking here.

 

See the general note about dv’s Gear Reviews.

 

Product:  The Moultrie D40 Game Camera

 

Overall Rating:  ***+ (3.3 stars)

 

Specifications (from Moultrie’s website):  

• 4.0 Mega pixels
• Rapid response time captures moving game
• 60-day battery life
• 45-ft white flash ensures optimal viewable shots
• Color day and night pictures
• Video clips during the day
• Imprinted time, date and camera ID on every photo or video
• Laser and IR aim for quick and precise camera set-up
• Multi-shot pictures (up to 3 shots)
• Weather-resistant, airtight camera housing and seal
• Operates on 6 D-cell batteries (sold separately)
• Easy to operate LCD menu driven display

Cost:  **** (4 stars).  Typically $99.95 or less on sale.  I like that price.    

 

Performance:  *** (3 stars).  I don’t ask a lot from my game cameras.  Take pictures or videos reliably and I’m set.  Trigger time is 3 seconds from wake up (see Chasingame.com’s review).  This makes it a better food plot or feed station camera than a trail camera.        

 

Battery life:  Here’s the weak link in this camera.  My cameras are deployed 3.5 hours away.  In the summer I visit as seldom as every 30-45 days and in the winter my visits range from 14-21 days apart.  If the camera quits working then it isn’t much good to me.  Summer performance, especially when coupled with a solar panel and auxiliary 12 volt battery (this’ll be the subject of another blog), is 30-60 days.  In the cold temperatures of winter I’ll sometimes only get 10 days of service from good quality batteries.  At one dollar per battery for a total of $6 per crack (refer to Consumer Report’s battery testing) the cost of batteries per season starts to make this camera less attractive when compared to my Scout Guard 550 (review to follow in the future).    

 

Picture quality:  Good and good enough for scouting game.  See the two top photos in Best Of Trail Camera Photos – May/June 2009 for samples.

 

Set up:  Set up is easy/intuitive even without reading the manual.

 

Security:  The D40 is not easily secured as provided.  I recommend the use of a security box which I’ll feature in a future DIY blog.

 

Manufacturer’s Customer Service:  *** (3 stars).  I’m in the middle, on the fence on this one.  When I called to have a camera repaired they were initially stand-offish since I didn’t enter a purchase date in the warranty registration form on the website.  There were two problems with that.  First, the camera was a gift from my brother.  Second, there is no option or spare space to enter the purchase date on the online form.  I now mail in the card supplied with the camera.  However, when I sent in my D40 Moultrie with a written explanation Moultrie repaired my camera in a timely manner without additional charge.   

 

Source:  Gift from brother (I blame him for my current infatuation with game cameras).

 

General notes:  For feeding stations or food plots this is a great little game camera.  They are popular and rated well among consumers.  The price is reasonable.  It’s easy to use.  The pictures are great.  I would like to see better battery life. 

 

happy hunting, dv

 

If you liked this blog you may like the following:

• Hamming With Game Cams
• JD Welding Arrow Spin Testing – A dv Gear Review
• The Magnet Gun Caddy – A dv Gear Review

Feedback, Questions & Comments 

I’d like to hear your tips, feedback, comments or questions.  Please leave them below.  

 

Subscribe
Like this blog? Want to be notified of updates? Subscribe via RSS feed by clicking here.

Printed on a broadhead package, “Field Point Flight.”  I have no doubt. 

 

Spoken by a bowhunter, “My broadheads don’t fly like my field points.”  Really?  How do they fly?  They just fall out of the bow?  They defy gravity?  What? 

 

From my point-of-view all broadheads fly just like field points – right through the air.  Now, whether or not they have the same Point Of Impact (POI) down range may be an entirely different story.  That’s really good marketing subterfuge.  Stating that a broadhead has the same POI would really be definitive.  Stating that it has field point flight is rather ambiguous. 

 

A number of dissimilar events have brought this to the forefront of my mind lately.  One, I purchased some new 100 grain, 1 1/4″ cut, Slick Trick brand GrizzTricks to try out.  Two, I stumbled on this broadhead flight testing video by Pro Release (follow this link and see the MUCC video on the lower left).  Three, I need to prepare for a mid-August pronghorn hunt.  4) While devastating and fatal on every critter I’ve ever shot one into, I haven’t gotten the penetration I’d like on whitetail bucks with my 100 grain, 1 3/4″ cut Wasp Jakhammers (although I’d choose no other head for turkey). 

 

The Pro Release broadhead flight test video linked to above is fascinating.  I can’t get it out of my mind.  To the best of my recollection every broadhead I’ve ever shot that didn’t hit to the same field point POI did, indeed, hit left and/or low. 

 

So, what can we do if our broadheads don’t hit the same POI?  Below are many of the options I’ve read, seen discussed or used along with my discussion on them. 

 

1)  Cry and/or kick a tree (maybe in reverse order).  I use and suggest this in combination with other options.   

 

2)  Re-tune field points and try again.  To me, this is a waste of time.  I don’t agree with the statement, “If your bow is properly tuned you should get same field point POI with your broadheads.”  That is actually a bonus.

 

3)  Tune your broadheads.  You can see a video description of this procedure from Magnus Broadheads here.

    

4)  Using a spin tester check to make sure your broadheads are aligned properly to the axis of the arrow.  Apply slight pressure to the tips of offending broadheads to align them and try again.  I do believe very much in making sure my broadhead is properly aligned, but using pressure to “fix” the alignment is a fragile solution at best.  One shot into the target and you’ll likely have to try it again.

 

5)  If you are still shooting aluminum arrows with hot-melt-glue-installed-inserts try rotating the broadhead and insert incrementally and re-shooting.  I’m not suggesting aligning the broadhead blades to the fletching, just finding a sweet spot.  When still using aluminum arrows I adopted this option from Dave Holt’s Balanced Bowhunting to good effect.   

 

6)  Utilize two sights.  One sighted in for broadheads, one for field points.  Obviously, switching out sights can be problematic and less than convenient.

 

7)  Sight in with broadheads.  If I’m short on time or don’t want to use option 7 then this is what I do after spin testing.  I will make “witness” marks on my sight so I can adjust between broadhead and field point POI.

 

8)  Adjust to broadhead POI.  Follow the below procedure to make broadheads and field points hit the same POI.  Again, this was adopted from Dave Holt’s Balanced Bowhunting.  If you are like me the voice in the back of your head is saying, “But what happened to the bullet holes I was shooting with field points?”  I’m with you and I’ve never seen a good answer, but I have seen blood trails and whacked animals.  In the end, that is what is important to me.

 

-If the broadhead hits left, move the rest right.

 

-If the broadhead hits right, move the rest left.

 

-If the broadhead hits low, move the rest up or nocking point down. 

 

-If the broadhead hits high, move the rest down or nocking point up.

 

-Re-sight with field points and broadheads.

 

My initial shooting shows the POI of my new GrizTricks is to the left of my field points.  I’ll be moving my sight to compensate for this.  By the way, if you haven’t broken out and test shot your broadheads for this upcoming season then you are definitely behind the ball. 

 

happy bowhunting, dv

 

If you liked this blog you may like the following:

 

JD Welding Arrow Spin Testing – A dv Gear Review

Overhauling A Hunting Bow

Archery Release Mystery Solved

Feedback, Questions & Comments 

I’d like to hear your tips, feedback, comments or questions.  Please leave them below.  

 

Subscribe
Like this blog? Want to be notified of updates? Subscribe via RSS feed by clicking here.

Anatomy of a Bowfishing Rig

As we gear up for bowfishing I thought I’d go over my bowfishing rig and talk about the equipment we use.  Primarily we shoot fish under 20 pounds from a moving boat on lakes at night.  Water depth is usually 2-5 feet and shots are typically less than 4 yards.  We made our first trip to the Mississippi River last year and felt there may be a few changes needed for that specific shooting.  I’ll point those out as we go along.  Also, for those of you who want to put out minimum funds or change minimum equipment I’ll discuss what I did in my early days of bowfishing from the bank and from a canoe. 

Bow:  I use an early 1990’s Hoyt Spectra Fastflite bow set at 45 pounds.  It is a long axle-to-axle and brace height bow which is good for finger-shooting.  This bow is still in good enough condition to act as a back up hunting bow if need be and has done so.  While our typical lake shots are less than 4 yards the shots out on the Mississippi were sometimes up to 17 yards.  I believe turning the bow up to 50 pounds for those longer shots would be beneficial. 

A Hoyt Spectra Fastflite set up for bowfishing. 

Read the rest of this entry »

A Visit to the Forge Bow Company Factory Store 

I’ve had an affinity for blacksmithing and forging since a very young age.  So when I learned about Forge Bow Company, Inc in the early nineties at the Madison, WI Deer and Turkey Classic I was immediately drawn to the line.  However, Forge has always posted some relatively mild speed ratings in my opinion.  As owner Steve Pagel pointed out, I like to compensate for my 26.5″ draw length with a little more draw weight and a fast bow.  They no longer forge their risers, but Bowhunt America recently reported in the June 2009 Spring Buyer’s Guide that Forge was producing the Ventilator for 2009.  A 34″ axle-to-axle (ATA), 8″ brace height (BH) bow rated at 330 feet per second (fps) catches my attention.

 

 

 

Read the rest of this entry »

Exciting New Products from the Cabela’s Archery Catalog 

I’m not in the industry and I don’t get to go to the Archery Trade Association (ATA) show so I often have to wait until the season’s catalogs come out to see the newest products.  Yesterday I received the new Cabela’s 2009 Archery Catalog.  There were a number of products that got me excited.

 

Gorilla Hang-On HX Treestands

I don’t need a new stand, but the Silverback Scout HX caught my eye.  It has an 18″ x 24″ platform, 20″ high seat and weighs 9 pounds.  Since I primarily hunt public land and carry my stand to nearly every set up nearly every time the light weight is what really interests me.  Having used Gorilla treestands in the past the list price of $114.99 doesn’t seem that bad.  The Gorilla website does not list the HX line yet. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gorilla Silverback Predator Sticks

Very similar to Lone Wolf Climbing Sticks Gorilla’s new Silverback Predator Sticks weigh a pound more each, 3 1/2 pounds versus 2 1/2 pounds, and retail for $39.99 each or $119.99 per set of three.  That is only a savings of $10 over a Lone Wolf set so on a weight basis alone I’d still opt for the Lone Wolf product, but they are interesting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 GamePlan Gear’s Treestand Transport System

For 2009 GamePlan Gear has completely re-engineered the Treestand Transport System (TTS) first introduced in 2008 based on customer feedback.  I used the 2008 TTS and while it was an innovative improvement over simple straps it had a few problems.  By all accounts GamePlan Gear stood by its warranty.  I will say from personal customer service experience the company was not responsive to either phone or e-mail after-sale product inquiries.  I am still anxious to try out the 2009 TTS.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Horn Hunter’s Blind Hog Blind System

Man, it is tough on the shoulders carrying a 21 pound blind, chair, bow holder stake, and decoys with the often supplied single strap.  However, I haven’t been willing to let go of the $150-275 required to buy a good aftermarket blind pack.  Instead, I’m willing to cripple myself for life.  However, Horn Hunter now has its Blind Hog Blind System which carries the blind as well your gear for $79.99.  That’s a price I can live with.  It sports a, “molded foam back, padded shoulder and sternum straps and belt.”  Horn Hunter touts its warranty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Primos’ Blind Bag

Yet another solution to my being crippled for life from carrying a blind may be the new Primos’ Blind Bag.  Priced at $24.99 it has, “Designated space for blind, stakes, stool, bow or gun.”  I like that price even more than $79.99.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Primos Hub Blind Bow Holder

This innovative product, priced at $39.99, mounts on your blind’s wall hubs and keeps, “your bow, backpack, binoculars or rangefinder close at hand.  For the price I’ll stick with my blind stake, but it is pretty innovative.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wildlife Research Magnum Scrape-Dripper

These guys must have been reading my mind last year.  Their standard scrape dripper accepts 1.25 ounce of scent and is supposed to last for about 1 week.  I wanted something to last for 2 weeks so I made my own twice-as-big version.  That’ll be a future blog.  I’m convinced based on game camera photos that the scent dripper did work to pull in one 10-pointer during daylight hours.  The Magnum is listed at $17.99, accepts 4 ounces of scent and is supposed to last two to three weeks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Primos Truth Serum Deer Dropin’s

Ok, I wouldn’t buy this product, but it’s stuck in my head like an ear worm.  For $9.99 you get 2.5 ounces (about 200 pellets) of biodegradable, scent balls with a deer dropping appearance.  It might actually be more fun using these for purposes other than hunting.  Imagine your hunting partner up at 4:00 a.m. reaching into his pack for some hand warmers and finding some Deer Dropin’s!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well, of the whole catalog, those were the things that excite me the most.  Now, I’ve just got to get to my local Cabela’s and check out those blind packs/bags.

 

happy hunting, dv

 

Feedback, Questions & Comments

I’d like to hear your tips, feedback, comments or questions.  Please leave them below. 

 

Subscribe
Like this blog? Want to be notified of updates? Subscribe via RSS feed by clicking here.

Coming up on Mostly Archery

• Bowfishing – Preparing the Boat
• A Visit to the Forge Bow Factory Store
• Anatomy of a Bowfishing Bow

A Hunting Bow Overhaul 

To buy a new bow or overhaul the old bow?  That is the question.  I think nearly all of us want the “latest and greatest”, but when is it really time to buy a new bow?  I asked around online forums including Bowcast and saw others asking the same question.  Other than the archer who wisely recommended that you only buy a bow if your mortgage, car payments and childrens’ college funds are up-to-date, I really didn’t find a satisfactory answer.  Lexus would only eat the books and bite the professors so I could probably use her college fund to buy a new bow, but I still didn’t know what to do. 

 

What it came down to for me was that the price of a new bow nearly equaled the cost of my pronghorn hunt this fall or my trip to Texas in January.  Basically, I’d rather “dump the string” on critters with an old bow than dump the money to buy a new one this year.  This “new equipment versus string-dumping” is a subject I’ll explore more in a future blog.  However, it was time to change out the string and do some modifications to my shooting style.  Here is my current bow set up bought in the latter part of 2006. 

 

Reflex Highlander set to 26.5″ draw length and 67.5 pounds

Factory strings and cables

Sims super string leeches

Copper John pre-2007 .019″ 5-pin sight

Tubed 3/16″ peep

Nock sets

Eliminator buttons

STS string dampener

Quiet Tune stabilizer

Trophy Taker Shakey Hunter rest

NAP arrow holder

Neet web sling

 

A 2006 Reflex Highlander

 

 

 

Here is the work list:

 

New strings and cables

Addition of a D-loop

Change to a tubeless 1/4″ peep

New string silencers

New braided sling

Add non-slip material to grip

New stabilizer

 

Some of the parts used for the overhaul.

 

 

 

String Choices

I’ve used Winner’s Choice and Vapor Trail strings in the past and been happy with both.  WC’s are great strings, but I don’t shoot well enough to notice a difference between them and the lower cost alternatives.  My bowfishing bow that also serves as a back up if needed has Vapor Trail strings on it.  They’ve held up well to the wet, hot, sunny, slimy and bloody conditions of bowfishing.  A solid-shooting acquaintance I respect at local West Allis Bowmen turned me on to Wolf Den Strings and Johns Customs has a good reputation over at Bowcast. 

 

I contacted VT, Wolf Den and Johns Customs to check on the number of strands, materials used, pre-stretching technique and get a feel for the experience of each.  I was interested in the number of strands due to nock fit, creep (permanent lengthening) and speed.  Pre-stretch goes to maintaining peep rotation especially considering I am switching to a tubeless peep and d-loop.  Customer service was great from all.  I decided to stick with VT just because I have had good experiences with them. 

 

Changing Strings

I’d rather have a nail driven through my toe than tune a bow.  But, I’d rather change the strings and tune the bow myself than take it somewhere.  Why?  I haven’t found a “pro” shop I trust to do this work. 

 

In the past I have had strings so long put on my bow that they actually allowed the cam to rotate all the way around and cut into it.  I’ve had a hole drilled completely through my riser.  I dealt with one manufacturer who couldn’t return the bow to its original draw length after three attempts.  I’ve had shop technicians argue with me about the length of my arrows and I’ve had them consistently cut off 1/16″ crooked.  And I’ve experienced such bad customer service that even forgiving Mrs. dv said, “You’re not actually going to buy a bow there are you?”  When trying to explain the technical aspect of what I was trying to accomplish with a bow I’ve had shop technicians give me that dull, deer-in-the-headlights’ look. 

 

Doing the work yourself isn’t without risk or frustration.  I broke a limb on one of my bows once by failing to reassemble it properly.  Each archer has to decide if working on his or her bow to this level is desirable.

 

To see if all this work would make any difference I ran a few arrows through the chronograph.  Three arrows later the average was 254 feet per second.  When I bought the bow two years ago the average was 262.

 

 

 

Since I don’t do this kind of thing all the time I proceed slowly.  I usually have old catalogs with pictures of the bow on hand to make sure everything goes back together the same way.  I also take close digital pictures for the same reason.  When new I recorded the factory specifications, axle-to-axle and brace height measurements in the original owner’s manual. 

 

 

 

 

I measured and recorded the distance from the string’s top loop to the peep and nock point so I can get them back into a starting position on the new string.  Then I slowly swapped out both cables and the string one at a time. 

 

Set Draw Length and Draw Weight

Proper draw length is critical for shooting well.  I worry about that first.  Make a “measuring arrow” from an old one that is too long for your draw length.  Look in the “lost bucket” of your local archery club for possible candidates.  I take my desired draw length, 26 1/2″, subtract 1 3/4″ and arrive at 24 3/4″.  I then measure my arrow from the valley of the nock to the 24 3/4″ point and mark that.  Why?  Because that is the Archery Trade Association standard.  The distance from the string at full draw to the center of the Berger button hole for a 30″ draw bow is actually 28 1/4″.  The Berger button is the hole in the riser where the bolt for your rest goes in which just happens be directly above the most forward part of your grip (inside the riser).

 

dv’s Time Out Corner:  Verify your measuring arrow’s measurements before starting.  I spent three days working up a sweat trying to set my draw length only to find I was using the wrong mark on my measuring arrow – “Measure twice, set draw length once.”     

 

I then fasten a paperclip to my riser as in the picture below and draw the bow.  By comparing the mark on the arrow to the paperclip I determine if the draw length is too long or too short.  You can also have a friend or your wife help you with this.  I avoid bothering Mrs. dv.  She’s usually watching American Idiot or America’s Next Top Moron and I wouldn’t appreciate it if she bothered me while I was tuning my bow (or staring at it lovingly…  or reminiscing about past hunts with it…).

 

 

Once I set draw length I move on to draw weight adjusting the limb bolts as necessary.  It is good to start out with your bolts bottomed out and unscrew them in equal amounts to maintain equal tiller (distance from limb pocket to string) on top and bottom.  I mark my bolts (as in picture below) to maintain equal settings.

 

It’s tough to see, but there is line etched into the limb bolt visible horizontally at the three o’clock point.

 

 

 

Basic Tuning

I believe you need to “shoot the strings in” before final tuning, but I don’t want the system so far out of tune that it is a beast to shoot.  Whether I’m shooting for score or just whacking some spots my practice time is valuable and I want the most out of it.  So, I do some basic tuning.

 

Whatever type bow you have check around and see if someone has developed a tuning guide for it.  Likely sources are Bowcast, Archery Talk or the manufacturer’s website.  I have three different guides for the Reflex Slam and 1/2 cams on my Highlander.  Take your time and go through the process slowly.  Like I said, it can be frustrating.  Adjustments to a cable can affect draw length and weight and I sometimes feel I’m running in circles.  Keep at it until it is where you want it.  Since each one is so specific I won’t go into details on this process.

 

Loop, Peep, String Silencers

Next I installed my d-loop.  Use your square to determine its location.  In order to maintain my anchor I wanted the loop as small (short) as possible.  It took me about 8 tries before getting it close.  I’m still not sure if it is where I want it, but it is a start.  Visit the Bowcast Blog on d-loop tying and T-Bone Turner’s videos on d-loop tying for more information. 

 

Next I installed the peep.  I went with a 1/4″ peep as I want to center my pre-2007 Copper John pin guard inside it when aiming as another reference point.  I chose the tube-less G5 Meta Peep for this.  Discontinuing the tube reduces weight, should add speed and reduce noise. 

 

String silencers were next.  I went with the original Sims string leeches for this.  The Primos String Bats were economically priced and I like Primos’ products in general, but there was so little material there I didn’t see how they could have any effect.   

 

dv’s Time Out Corner:  I wanted to check the peep’s alignment before putting the STS and stabilizer (which hold the sling) on since they have to be removed to press the bow.  On my first shot the bow jumped out of my hand and landed right on the concrete floor on the bottom cam.  All seems well, but it did ding up the bottom cam some.  Shoot with your sling on your bow!

 

Sling

I installed the sling one step too late.  I really like how it is more rigid than the old web-material version.  That should be handy for getting into it in the field.    

 

Grip Material

The local hardware store had some adhesive-backed, non-slip material near the glues and friction tape.  Basically, it was black sandpaper with adhesive on the back.  I applied it to the riser where the base of my thumb makes contact. 

 

Stabilizer

The shiny aluminum is showing through on my stabilizer, but I can no longer find the Quiet Tune line.  Cobra bought them from a local company and seems to have killed them.  I bought the Sims S-Coil 2.5″ Extension and mounted it with a Sims S-Coil Stabilizer I already had, but it wouldn’t fit with the excess portion of the STS bar sticking out the front.  Not wanting to cut off the STS bar as it may eventually end up on my target bow I went back and bought the Sims Xpress Stabilizer which fit just fine.

 

Post overhaul.

 

 

 

Chrono Time

Ok, everything is back on the bow. Time to do some shooting and see how it went.  Three shots registered 262 fps every time.  For my draw length I’m pretty happy with that. 

 

 

Conclusion

That is pretty much it.  I’ll have to do final paper tuning after I’ve shot it in awhile and then compare field point point-of-impact to the two types of broadheads I use.  Further tuning and sighting may be required after that, but that is for a future blog.

 

happy hunting, dv

 

Feedback, Questions & Comments

I’d like to hear your tips, feedback, comments or questions.  Please leave them below. 

 

Subscribe
Like this blog? Want to be notified of updates? Subscribe via RSS feed by clicking here.

Coming up on Mostly Archery

• Bowfishing – Preparing the Boat
• A Visit to the Forge Bow Factory Store
• Anatomy of a Bowfishing Bow

As promised, an upcoming blog will discuss the overhaul of my hunting bow as it is nearly finished.  Part of that overhaul includes addition of a d-loop on the string for the first time.  In order to maintain the same anchor point I want a release that has its trigger as close to the hook as possible.  Note that there is a common misconception, even previously held by me, that a d-loop can change your draw length.  My proper draw length is my draw length, period.  What a d-loop can do is change my anchor point to a spot farther back from my normal one.  Maybe just semantics, but it makes sense to me. 

 

I’ve been shooting a Scott Archery Sabretooth NCS (Nylon Connection System), pictured on the left.  This is the best release I’ve ever used and on par with some of my semi-customized firearm triggers.  I can adjust its length very short, but there is a point at which it becomes so short that your index and other fingers cannot reset it on the string.  I thought I’d try out the Scott Silverhorn NCS, pictured on the right.  This release is made specifically for use with a d-loop.  The trigger is about 1/4-3/8″ closer to the hook than on the Sabretooth. 

 

These two releases are so similar I thought I might be able to use them interchangeably with the Sabretooth just offering a slightly longer anchor point.  I didn’t get the Silverhorn until after I set up my bow, so I used the Sabretooth for that.  However, I found that I couldn’t comfortably see through my peep when using the Silverhorn.  Again, they were so similar this really stumped me for about 4 days. 

 

While down at the local archery club I explained my dilemma to one of the members who has been a member at the club since 1962 and is a machinist by trade.  1962, can you believe that?  Anyway, within seconds he noticed that the hook on the Silverhorn is left-of-center.  This puts the string closer to my face with the same anchor point and “crowds” (for lack of a better term) the distance between my under-jaw anchor and my eye.  It will require me to shift the peep up the string to see through it comfortably. 

 

Mystery solved.  Yet another reason to belong to your local archery club.

 

happy hunting, dv

 

Feedback, Questions & Comments
I’d like to hear your tips, feedback, comments or questions. Please leave them below.  

Subscribe
Like this blog? Want to be notified of updates? Subscribe via RSS feed by clicking here.

Coming up on Mostly Archery

• Bowfishing – Preparing the Boat
• Overhauling My Hunting Bow
• Veteran’s Dogsled in Minnesota’s Boundary Water Canoe Area

Before I post another dv’s Gear Provider Recommendation or my first Gear Review I wanted to drop a note about them.

 

First, I am not currently sponsored by any retailer, manufacturer or service provider.  If that ever changes I will update this post and each Review or Recommendation will refer back to it.  The bottom line is that if I don’t think something measures up I will tell you about it.

 

Second, unless something fails right away it will have been used for some period of time, likely an entire season, before it is reviewed.  One of my pet peeves is the following review, “Just got it in the mail today.  Looks great.  Should work great.  I give it five stars!”  What, are you kidding me?  Reviewing items at the end of a season doesn’t put me on the cutting edge, but that isn’t my purpose.  I want solid-performing gear worth the meager money Mrs. dv allows me to spend.

 

Gear Providers will likely only be recommended if they have been used at least twice.  Things like returning phone calls and e-mails in a timely manner, standing behind their product and providing great customer service are critical factors.

 

Third, it is economically unlikely that I can compare multiple models of a particular product.  For instance I can Review a particular rangefinder, but it will be unlikely I can compare that rangefinder to three others by different manufacturers.  However, it may happen on occasion.

 

happy hunting, dv

 

Feedback, Questions & Comments
I’d like to hear your tips, feedback, comments or questions. Please leave them below.

Subscribe
Like this blog? Want to be notified of updates? Subscribe via RSS feed by clicking here.

Coming up on Mostly Archery

• dv’s Gear Provider Recommendations – ACE, provider of ASAT, Sitka Gear and Wilderness Athlete Products
• Overhauling A Bow
• Veteran’s Dogsled in Minnesota’s Boundary Water Canoe Area