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Advanced hunting and Survival Skills Classes

DFG News Release

DFG Offers 12 Hunting and Wilderness Survival Clinics in 2008
Dec. 26, 2007 Contact:
Susan Herrgesell, Hunter Education Program Coordinator (530) 347-3980

The Department of Fish and Game (DFG) has scheduled 12 statewide clinics in 2008 to educate hunters on advanced hunting and wilderness survival skills. The clinics are designed to take the hunter or outdoors person a step beyond basic hunting and wilderness skills.

“These clinics were developed by the DFG Advanced Hunter Education Program to provide the tools for a successful hunt and safe trek in the wilderness,” said Susan Herrgesell, DFG Advanced Hunter Education Coordinator. “The goal of these courses is to develop ethical, conservation-minded, successful hunters through education.”

Clinics include sessions on hunting turkey, upland game, waterfowl, and big game. Topics covered in each of the clinics include the type of firearm, ammunition, importance of sighting in the firearm, gauging distance, scouting, tracking, field dressing, shoot-don’t shoot scenarios, hunter ethics, landowner-hunter relationships, conservation, and safety.

The date, description, location and cost of each clinic are listed as follows:

  • Jan. 19-20, Land Navigation offered at Tejon Ranch in southern Kern County. The cost is $60.
  • Feb. 9-10, Wilderness Survival offered at Tejon Ranch in southern Kern County. $60.
  • March 1, Bear Hunting Clinic offered in the Redding area. $40.
  • April 26, Wild Pig Hunting Clinic offered at Fort Hunter Liggett in Monterey County. $40.
  • May 17-18, Big Game Hunting Clinic offered at Wilderness Unlimited Property in Williams. $60.
  • June 7, Wild Pig Hunting Clinic offered at Valley of the Moon Gun Club in Sonoma. $40.
  • June 21-22, Land Navigation and Wilderness Survival offered at Shasta-Trinity National Forest Bushytail Campgrounds. The cost is $60 and accommodations are camping.
  • Aug. 2, Wild Pig Hunting Clinic offered at Tejon Ranch in southern Kern County. $40.
  • Sept. 13, Upland Game Hunting Clinic offered at Wilderness Unlimited Property in Williams. $40.
  • Sept. 20, Waterfowl Hunting Clinic offered at Wilderness Unlimited Property in William. $40.
  • Sept. 20, Upland Game Hunting Clinic offered at High Desert Hunt Club near Gorman. $40.
  • Sept. 27, Waterfowl Hunting Clinic offered at San Jacinto Wildlife Area in Riverside County. $40.

Registrations are now being accepted for all clinics. To find out more information about the clinics, please refer to the Advanced Hunter Education website at www.dfg.ca.gov/huntered/advanced.

Posted on 29th February 2008
Under: California, Strategy | 1 Comment »

Packing Out Elk on Horseback

There are a number of ways to get your down elk out of the hills and back to camp.  Since elk live in big country, horses are a big part of our hunting success.  We can get to our daylight lookouts before dawn and let our mounts pick their way back to camp in the dark.  We conserve our energy for hunting, and we cover lots of ground a-foot and a-horseback. 

 Here is a brief discussion of the various ways you can get your elk out on horseback.

What we had luck with this year was to hitch the sawed quarters on to the riding saddles.  For this task I recommend 50 feet of 3/8 ” kernmantle rope (braided).  It doesn’t stretch, and has all the strength we needed to do the job.  It rode in my back pack wtithe intent being to hang quarters over night if needed.  I would recommend that horseback hunters just keep this in their saddle bag for this very reason.  Below is a front quarter with a Basket hitch (which hold the quarter up), and a crows foot (which goed to the Cinch and puts tension on the load.  Then we finished off with a Trucker hitch over the seat of the saddle to pull the tops together.

Fifty Feet of 3/8ths rope comes in handy

On the Rear Quarters, we were able to use 100 feet of Parachute cord to sling them in a Barrel Hitch.  This is known as “Makin’ do with what ‘cha got!”
Makin' do with parachute cord in an improvised barrel hitch 

All of these hitches were designed for a pack saddle, but we adapted them to a riding saddle.

Saddle Panniers

These are popular with folks who don’t feel comfortable using rope slings.  The idea is that you ride out with the panniers tied behind the cantle and then when needed, the one piece panniers fit over the seat of the saddle with cut outs for the cantle and horn

Saddle panniers for the ropeless retrieval

On a Pack Horse with Panniers
Tie on the Head and antlers so the points don't poke the horse.

Special Care must be taken when when packing out antlers on horseback.  If the antlers are sufficiently wide, the main beam may be pointed down as this points the tines back.  With a more narrow rack, the antlers need to be kept above the horses hips to prevent the tips from poking your steed and sparking a rodeo (as shown in the saddle pannier photo).

Either way you choose to pack out your meat on horseback, I guarantee you will be singing the praises of your pack stock a few miles down the trail!

For more information on the topic, check out these titles, available at your local bookstore or at Amazon.com

Horses, Hitches, and Rocky Trails, by Joe Back

Packin’ in on Mules and horses by Smoke Elser and Bob Brown

Horse packing in pictures 

Posted on 17th November 2007
Under: Cowboys and Horses, Strategy | 1 Comment »

Emergency Plan for Solo Hunters

 Solo Hunters who go hunting and don’t come back are rare, but stories like this one from the BC Hunting Blog about missing hunter Tom Leonard make you pause when you contemplate a solo venture.

Emergency plan - Leave this with someone at home, or the base camp if you are spiking out alone.  The info necessary includes:

  • When You plan to return, and especially, when they should begin to worry.  On a weekend hunt I tell my wife, that I will contact her with a status report by midnight sunday night.  After that, she can call the Search and Rescue.
  • Where  you are going.  I leave a map with the name and trailhead I’m going in at.  I also circle the approximate area I will be hunting, and I don’t go beyond that since any search attempts will concentrate on those areas.  I  leave her a copy of the National Forest map with the locations marked of where I will park my truck, and if I am exiting a different location, where that will be.
  • How Long You will be gone.  How long you will have supplies for. How long to wait before your contact should start to worry.
  • Who to contact if the contact does not hear from you.  That would include the local Sheriff’s department (who coordinate the S&R efforts), The District Ranger station, and other people who are familiar withthe area and would know where I would be hunting and perhaps hurt. 

Emergency supplies -

Should be on your person.  Not on your horse or in your pack.  It is too easy to drop your pack for a stalk and end up a mile away from shelter and first aid supplies.  Likewise, if your horse dumps you and runs off to the trailhead, you don’t want to be afoot, unarmed with no way to make a fire, or shelter yourself

  • Fire Supplies Not only for staying warm, but signalling for help from passing aircraft, and search parties.  a column of smoke will catch the eye for miles on a clear day. 
    Fire starter - Fire sticks, or cotton balls soaked in Vaselline, pine pitch knots,
    Matches - Strike anywhere, waterproof
    Waterproof Matchcase with whistle, compass, mirror and flint
    One of the waterproof match case designs available
    My choice of Lighter is the Cabelas all weather model.  Wind-proof ignition features a Piezo-electronic ignition system with a unique coil design that relights itself.  It worked great elk hunting at 9000 feet elevation
  • Flint and Steel or other sparking firestarter 
    When Matches are wet, and the lighter won't work, a flint and steel is the only other option
  • Candle
  • A Kotex pad - This can stop bleeding and also will serve as tinder for fire starting.
  • Space blanket -
    A  space blanket that will work in a pinch
  • Duct Tape - a milion uses and counting. 
  • Parachute cord
  • A knife with a sturdy blade
  • Parachute cord can be used for a variety of uses
    Other Items that make an unexpected night out more bearable
  • water treatment drops
  • high energy bars

All of these Items can be put in a fanny pack or in a lightweight vest. Some people store their emergency kit in a Nalgene container.

 

Primos makes vests for both rifle hunters and archery hunters that have numerous pockets to keep survival materials in.  REMEMBER ON YOUR PERSON!  It could save your life.

Posted on 12th November 2007
Under: Strategy | 4 Comments »

Q and A about my 2007 Elk Hunt….

My recent posts about my 2 week pilgrimage to Elk Country has raised some questions from my readers, so I thought I would respond to those I’ve received so far.

How many miles did you travel?  How long did that take?

I drove about 2400 miles total in my 2001 GMC Crew Cab who I affectionately call “Mighty Whitey”.  I made it to Oregon Elk Camp (550 miles) in 10 Hours.  From Eastern Oregon to Western Wyoming was a 2 part trip, but was a total of 14 .5 hours and 650 miles.  The return trip through Nevada was 940 miles. 

What did your bull score?

When I scored him in camp he was 259 before deductions for symmetry.  He netted 241.  That is still bigger than my 2006 Oregon Archery bull.

How much meat did you get?

I delivered 4 quarters totalling 360 pounds to the plant.  I got back nearly 250 pounds of boneless steaks, roasts, and ground meat.

What did you do with the meat? 

The meat I had custom cut and wrapped in Jackson by JH processing, a division of Cowboy natural meats.

What rifle, scope cartridge and caliber were you using?
Ruger<br>  M77 in .300 Win. MAG

I shot my bull with a Ruger Model 77 .300 Winchester Magnum.  Ammunition was a Federal Premium factory load with 180 grain Nosler Partition Bullets.

What was the weather like?

We had everything from sun to rain, sleet, snow, hail, and wind. The coldest was in the morning just before sunrise. It was as cold as 19 degrees, and as warm as 65 degrees.

What did you wear on your elk hunt?
Synthethic clothing helped me cope with wide temperature swings, and active hunting.  When it goot cold and wet, wool was the answer.

In a situation like that layering is essential. I always wore Under Armour Cold Gear as my base layer. I wore Merino wool blend socks from wigwam, and REI. I wore Cabelas Microtex pants and shirt. I also had good results with a Woolrich wool shirt and Army surplus wool pants. For insulation I had a Cabelas Jacket, under Rain Suede Raingear, when I needed it, from Cabela’s. On my feet I had either uninsulated Danner Quarry boots or Hoffman 14″ pacs with 200gram Thinsulate liners. For my hands and head, I wore heatmax gloves, a polar fleece beanie or a Sage Creek outfitters ball cap.

Where were you hunting?

My typical Answer is “Up No Tellum Creek. For the exact location the person who can point it out is named Helen Hunt. If you REALLY want to know, go to Helen Hunt.” By the way that is a smart aleck answer for folks that are prying, trying to find out my “honey hole”.
But let it suffice to say Western Wyoming.

Posted on 10th November 2007
Under: Oregon, Strategy, Wyoming | 1 Comment »

Getting Your Game From Field to Freezer part 5

Back Pack
Sometimes your game is at the bottom of a deep canyon whose slopes are littered with down fall timber. in this case, the only reasonable way to get that critter to the butcher, is to pack him out on your back. Now on large animals like moose and elk, that means at least 4 or 5 trips with meat and antlers.

 I have observed folks who have made a pack out of hogs and deer, and packed out the animal whole, For me the ever present creepy crawly ticks and fleas give me the shivers, and blood from field dressing has a tendancy to run down ones back and form a sticky mess in your drawers. A more civilized and weight reducing method is to de-bone the carcass and pack it on one of two time tested backpack designs.

When you have a big critter down, and you have to get it out.  You can never have too many friends with stout packs!

External Frame

For large awkward loads, nothing can beat an external frame pack.   If you want to read some tales of feats performed, check out Bull-Pacs, made in Lewiston, Idaho.  Other External frames that have seen extreme use include Barney’s of Alaska, and even the Cabela’s Frame Packs.  A new one on the market is the Bighorn Frame Combo, made by  Wilderness Packs,  It uses a rigid, but flexible Molle Frame with detatchable bags, and an optional meat hauling attachment

My preference is to have a Frame pack back at Base Camp or at the trailhead.   If I have a multi-Trip meat extraction, I will pack out the First trip with my internal frame pack, and finish out the rest of the meat packing with the frame pack. 

Extenals have the advantage of being stiffer and more rigid allowing you to lask almost anything to it, given enough rope.  HoweverI find them to be to cumbersome and noisy for wearing during a hunt.  Hence my use of the Internal Frame.
Cost - at least $100, as much as $379
Skill required - ability to bone or at least quarter a large animal into small parts. Weight distribution on pack, and ability to carry loads determines capacity.
Terrain suited to this method - Above timberline where horses can’t go, steep hillsides, and thick off trail locations
Drawbacks - Large animals require multiple trips or multiple packers, injury is possible if done incorrectly. Multiple trips could be time consuming and result in meat spoilage in warm weather.
Benefits - if you are tough enough, you can get any game animal out of anywhere.

Internal Frame

Many hunters prefer internal frames, to keep the load closer to their back, and also appreciate the quiet design.  I know I do.  My internal framed Badlands 2200 is a great daypack, and I can even fit all the gear I would pack for a weekend archery season hunt in it.   The meat shelf pulls out to accomodate any parcel up to the size of an elk quarter.  So I can hunt with a full pack, and still be able to make the first trip out with a load of meat.   For packing in to a remote camp without horses, I find that the internal frame design is more sleek, and moves with me if I have to twist and turn over and around obstacles.  Mountain climbers have come to use this type of pack exclusively, and I can see why. 

The hunting market is served by a couple of pack manufacturers who build packs with hunting and meat packing specifically in mind.  Badlands, Kifaru and Eberlestock are well respected names in the backpack hunting community.  One trait seems to be the hall mark with the effective internal frame pack.  They all strive to be used while hunting, and still work effectively to get meat out of the field.  Each has its own way of expanding to accomodate the additional load, but for pure “freighting” they don’t come close to the capacity of the External frame. 

Cost - at least $100, as much as $379
Skill required - ability to bone or at least quarter a large animal into small parts. Weight distribution on pack, and ability to carry loads determines capacity.
Terrain suited to this method - Above timberline where horses can’t go, steep hillsides, and thick off trail locations
Drawbacks - Large animals require multiple trips or multiple packers, injury is possible if done incorrectly. Multiple trips could be time consuming and result in meat spoilage in warm weather. Less weight capacity, Boning most highly recommended.
Benefits - Able to make one trip out rather than go to camp for a frame back. if you are tough enough, you can get any game animal out of anywhere.

Posted on 30th October 2007
Under: Strategy | No Comments »

Getting Your Game From Field to Freezer part 4

Horses and mules require a big investment, and a lkot of skill.  Miles from home thaey can be a real lifesaver, but are best for experienced horsemen.  Hired packers are well worhtthe cost when you have an elk down.

Horses and Mules
There is nothing more picturesque than a string of mules with elk quarters and antlers coming through a mountain meadow. That is the image that I associate with Western hunting more than any other. If you have access to horses to transport your game you will never regret your decision…..unless you have a wreck. Folks I can tell you when you deal with pack animals of any type there will be unintended excitement. Bear and moose encounters plus icy trails and ropes makes it a question not of if there will be a horse wreck but when! There is definitely a skill set required to be adept at transporting game out of the mountains with pack stock. Many Western outfitters and packers have rates for packing out game for their drop camp clients who like to hunt on their own terms. It is not for the average backyard hobby horseman, but can be learned. The school of hard knocks, along with reading books by folks like Smoke Elser, Bob Brown, and Joe Back, will help with the steep learning curve.
Cost - Wide range. $50-$500 per season for hired meat packers. $2500 per year per horse owned for annual feed and upkeep.
Skill required - horsemanship skills, packing skills, basic quartering or boning ability.
Terrain suited to this method - all but the steepest slopes and thickest downfall.
Drawbacks - requires ability to notify horse packer, may be a day or more before he can respond. With your own horses, it adds a new list of responsibilities to camp chores caring for horses.
Benefits - for long treks, the least amount of sweat expended, large weight capacity rewarding use of resources.

Summit Pack goats.  An Elk hunters best friend

Alternative Pack Stock
If you want some packing assistance don’t overlook llamas, goats or even dogs as alternatives so shouldering the burden yourself. My buddies Jody and Kirk recently had a great hunt with a string of pack goats in the wilderness of Northern California. Kirk even said he liked hunting with the goats better than a horseback hunt…

The Eastmans’ Bowhunting Journal Super Duo, South Cox and Cameron Hanes, have each had experience packing llamas on self guided hunts. Llamas present some unique management challenges as well, so do your homework before undertaking this venture.

Posted on 29th October 2007
Under: Strategy, Uncategorized | No Comments »

Getting Your Game From Field to Freezer part 3

Game Cart
These first appeared on the scene in the 70’s and 80’s. They come in one and two man models and with modern materials and fabrication techniques have become easy to pack large animals whole or in pieces. Be aware though that in Designated Wilderness areas, that these wheeled devices are not legal! As long as it is not a “Federally Designated Wilderness” you are A-OK though. These carts are amazing where they can go. From homemade ones to State of the art alloy frames, the wide range of designs will allow one or two hunters to haul their game through almost any terrain. Dead fall trees do present more of a problem though…

The Photo above is from an excellent article by Andrew McKean in his article “You bag it, you pack it”
Cost - $100 to over $200
Skill required - basic mechanic aptitude to assemble.
Terrain suited to this method - Non-”designated wilderness” All but the steepest slopes, open timber with minimal dead falls, low brush.
Drawbacks - Difficult to have on hand while hunting. Will require hunter to go get cart.
Benefits - in areas where permitted, an excellent method to pack in camp to roadless areas.

Posted on 28th October 2007
Under: Strategy | No Comments »

Getting Your Game From Field to Freezer part 2

Part 2 of a series

ancient rendition of the Team Carry
I have never had to resort to this. The animal is slung from a pole and carried by two hunters You see this frequently in cartoons depicting successful hunters. I can see how it would be better for critters that don’t have a like bears,wher you want to mimimize hide damage, or the ground has more obstacles to step over. But I don’t know if on steep slopes or animals over 200 pounds if it is practical. I don’t like the uneven weight distribution of a pole digging into my shoulder, but some folks swear by it.
Cost - Minimal, just need a pole, and something to tie the critter to it.
Skill required - basic knot tying, and a a sense of direction towards the truck
Terrain suited to this method - relaitively mild slopes, can step over a degree of ground obstacles
Drawbacks -Two people required, weight is borne by shoulder on small area, injury is possible if done incorrectly. Steep slopes and thick timber increase difficulty.
Benefits - Whole animal retrieved at once, hide intact and less likelyhood for hide damage

Posted on 27th October 2007
Under: Strategy | 1 Comment »

Getting Your Game From Field to Freezer part 1

I’m one of those individuals who always wants to know “the rest of the hunting story”.
1) Where did the bullet/broadhead hit and what was the result?

2) How did you get the critter out of where you found it?

To me those are the mark of a skilled outdoorsman, things that I take pride in. So I thought I would elaborate on methods of transporting big game at least to your vehicle if you can’t drive to the kill site. I have focused on the non motorized methods, but I recognize that the ATV, used properly is an excellent tool. In this series we will focus on each of the individual methods, one at a time. We will discuss Dragging, Team Carry, Game Carts, Pack Stock, and Backpacks individually..

Dragging
I grew up dragging 90 pound blacktails down out of canyons in Northern California. Luckily the roads were at the bottom and gravity helped quite a bit. Since we were hunting in a group, there was usually someone to help drag out a buck, and we didn’t have to contend with deadfalls. If it is a critter under 100 pounds, and the vehicle is downhill, with few obstacles, then dragging is an option. Snow is your friend when dragging is chosen. My hardest drag, while downhill, was my first Wyoming mule deer. I shot him on a STEEP slope and while one guy went back for a pack horse, I dragged the buck through an old burn littered with deadfalls. It was more of a control the fall/lift out from behind the log/try not to break a leg, until we reached the side of the trail on a more gentle slope. The packer was grateful that I had the deer in a more accessible place, but I was worn out! since then I have expanded my game retreval repertoire
Cost - Minimal, perhaps a dragging strap, and/or sled
Skill required - just a sense of direction towards the truck
Terrain suited to this method - smooth ground with few obstacles, snow is ideal, downhill is best.
Drawbacks - hide can be damaged, not ergonomicly wise unless a strap system is used, injury is possible if done incorrectly
Benefits - one person job unless large animal. Whole animal retrieved at once

Posted on 26th October 2007
Under: Strategy, Uncategorized | 1 Comment »

Meat Care Tips from a Wild Game Processor

Chuck and Patty Ann Sandberg are the owners and operators of Cowboy Free Range Meats in Jackson, Wyoming. Every year between 1,600 and 1,800 antelope, sheep, deer, moose and elk are handled by this couple and their skilled crew. Over the past 7 years my family has used their services for elk and deer processing after successful hunts in Western Wyoming. In addition to their wild game processing, the Sandbergs have expanded ther selectons to offer organic and free range meat headed up by Patty Ann. PattyAnn’s web site is
www.cowboyfreerangemeat.com

You may email them at patty@cowboyfreerangemeat.com

Patty Ann Sandberg

So with hunting season upon us, I thought that a Q&A session with Chuck about meat care would be helpful to our readers.

What common mistakes do hunters make in meat care when they bring animals to your facility?

There are several mistakes hunters make when they 1st get an animal
down.
1) So often hunters wait too long to begin dressing out their animal. They should get their pictures taken ASAP then immediately starting dressing the animal out….they can continue telling the story while they are doing this and enjoy retelling it after they have finished.
2) Too many hunters do not complete the dressing out process…a) they tend to leave the lungs and the esophagus (wind pipe) in the animal. They also tend to not remove the entire urinal track and all the manure from beneath the pelvic bone located between the hind quarters. Removing the wind pipe is critical especially in larger animals, re: elk, moose and buffalo. The enzymes in the wind pipe will cause the front half to spoil in only a few hours, especially if it is warm out. The front end of these animals retains so much heat that people don’t realize how quickly they can ruin 1/2 of their meat. Removing the wind pipe on deer and antelope is not as critical simply because they do not retain as much heat, however it is still wise to remove it so as not to take any chances. Still, leaving any of the entrails in an animal will effect the quality of how good your meat will taste.
3) Too many hunters let their meat get dirty, whether it be dust and dirt or grass and leaves. The dirtier your meat is, the more these outside influences seep into your meat and change the flavor. You also loose more meat because your butcher has to cut away more meat than on a clean animal. Dirty meat is very typical among hunters who “bone out” their animal in the field. Though they seldom have spoiled meat, I would say about 1 out 10 hunters know how to properly bone out an animal. Those who do know how usually are prepared with a clean tarp or blanket to do the work on and also with enough game bags to put the meat into when they are finished.
4) Never put your animal in a creek or water tank to cool it down. The bacteria in the water may cause who knows what to start growing on or in your meat. If you do wash your animal off with a hose (or clean water) the growth of bacteria is still increase and your meat starts breaking down much sooner. Butcher plants that clean animals this way usually have an additive in the water that will keep unwanted bacteria from forming on the meat.

Do you prefer to have the animal skinned when it comes to your facility?

Butchers prefer animals to come into their plants with the skin on the animal. Usually there is a skinning fee, but the advantages to leaving the skin on are numerous. First of all, the skin protects the animal when once it is dead similar to the way it protects it when it was alive. Primarily it keeps the meat clean and give less surface for flies and bees to get to.
If you are going to skin your animal yourself, be sure to do it where you can keep it clean and have as many game bags to put your meat into as soon as your finished. Too many hunters try to save a few dollars by skinning their own animal when they do not know how to skin properly or do not skin often enough to be proficient at the task of skinning. Many times, self skinned animals come in with huge knife cuts through out the animal. They don’t realize how much meat has to be made into hamburger rather than steaks because their animal is all hacked.

What is the best way to keep meat in camp cool during an early season hunt?

The best way to keep meat cool in camp during the early hunt (as well as the
later hunt) is simple….a) keep your meat out of the sun!, and b)hang it up, do not leave it laying on the ground or in the back of your truck! Again, the skin will protect the meat if it is properly and totally cleaned of entrails and wind pipe. If you are going to have several days in camp, you should quarter you animal…and leave the skin on the quarters. If you are going to have your animal mounted, you should cape it out at least up to the head. Do this by cutting from the middle of the back, straight up the backbone to the hump between the ears. Then cut around the middle of the body and keep your cut behind the shoulders. Then skin forward from there. This should be done immediately after you have “semi” field dressed your animal. By this I mean only cut it up the belly far enough to get the main mass of gut out. When you are finished skinning the front of your animal for your mount, you can also finish your dressing job by splitting the rib cage and removing the lungs and the wind pipe. If you field cape your animal be sure to have game bags to put your meat in. If you decide to skin any part of your animal or all of it be sure to have game bags…they will protect your animal just as leaving the skin on will.

What can a hunter do to make processing his meat faster and easier for you?

Hunters can make my job easier by bringing their game in ASAP, by keeping their meat clean and by trying hanging tendon on the hind quarters. When you cut the rear legs of your animal, there are too lumps at the knee joint…cut in the middle of the lumps “closest to the ground”. This will be the “lower” lump of the two and also the “smaller” lump. Too many times the hunter cuts the large lump because it is the main joint of the knee, but this also causes you to cut the joint that holds the hanging tendon to the knee, making it more difficult to hang your animal from the hind quarters.

Many hunters worry about getting their meat back, how do you keep track of who’s is who’s during the Fall rush?

Every hunter we get will definitely get their own meat back if they will take the time when they first come in to make sure we put their name of all parts of their animal. ( ie: If you a have 4 quarters we would put 4 name tags on). These tags stay on the animal until it is removed from the cooler to be processed. We only put one animal on a cutting table at a time and your name tags follow your animal clear through the wrapping process until it is put on trays with your name on the tray. We never put 2 different hunters animal on the same tray. Any hunter is welcome to take a tour of how we cut and keep track of each animal…you can spend the whole day if you like…but you will know you are getting your own meat and all of it if you
will take just a minute or two to come watch how we do things.

What should a hunter know if he wants his meat shipped to his or her home?

If a hunter wants to ship his meat home, he can take it on most airlines as excess baggage or he can ship it via FED-EX. UPS will not allow more than 4.4 lbs of dry ice, which is not enough to keep your meat frozen during the shipping process Shipping averages about $3.00 and up a pound. Remember an elk might yield as much as 230 lbs… of pure meat…on top of this is the cost of preparing your shipment. You would be buying 3 to 4 shipping boxes, plus putting 10 lbs of dry ice in each box for overnight delivery and 20 lbs in each box for 2 day air delivery. A large bull could cost over a $1000.00 just for shipping cost. Our suggestion is to drive and bring a very large cooler….usually a 140 quart will hold most elk….but a very large elk or a moose will probably require another cooler.

What services do you offer, what do they cost?

Our basic cost for processing is 85 cents per pound of the “hanging” weight. This means, no hide, no head, no legs. Elk usually weigh between 300 and 400 lbs. This includes making the hamburger. Adding beef or pork fat to your burger is a little extra. We also offer pressed and ground jerky, salami, summer sausage and polish sausages, however these items are not made from your animal. They are made from the trim designated by each hunter if they want some of these items. These are made at in bulk at around 200 lbs per batch. They are a mixture of antelope, elk, deer and moose. Thus they are “wild game” products. Because of the volume we must do it is impossible to make any of these items from your own animal. We also offer “breakfast sausage”which does come from your own animal and is made at the same time as the rest of your meat is being wrapped.

We also have a small retail store, where we offer buffalo, elk and organic
meat. These are farm / ranch raised animals and are processed at USDA
plants located in Idaho and Utah. Our store also offers unique gifts for
any hunter to bring home. These include unique wild game cook books, special
seasonings for wild game, huckleberry products and many other gift ideas you
would not find in most stores.

Where are you located, and how can a customer contact you?

We are located at 1655 Berger Lane (P.O. Box 1618) Jackson, Wyoming 83001.Turn west at the last stop like going south out of Jackson, which is the
“HIGH SCHOOL ROAD” take your next right which is “GREGORY LANE” and your next right which is “BERGER LANE”. Go 1 block and we are on the left hand corner. We have a large white and black buffalo sign located in front of our building and are easy to find.
Our phone numbers are 307-733-4026 or 307-732-0496. During the heart of theseason we get so busy with customers standing right in front of us that the
phones can be hard to answer, so please leave a message or try calling back
later. We do check are messages several times daily and will get back to
you ASAP.
We are open “every day” including Sundays at least from 8am to
6pm….usually later when we know animals are coming in.

Our motto is “YOU GET YOUR OWN MEAT AND ALL OF IT”. This means we use yourown meat for steaks, roasts, burger and breakfast sausage. We never keep any of your meat of give it to anyone else.

www.cowboyfreerangemeat.com
patty@cowboyfreerangemeat.com

Posted on 12th September 2007
Under: Strategy, Wyoming | 3 Comments »